Looking at chrysanthemums in flower beds, many gardeners wonder whether it is possible to grow these beautiful flowers V room conditions. Of course you can! Growing a chrysanthemum in a pot is not at all difficult, you just need to choose the right variety and organize the flower comfortable conditions for life, and then homemade chrysanthemums in pots can decorate the interior of an apartment or office.
The following varieties of perennial chrysanthemums are best suited for growing in an apartment or house:
As an indoor flower, the “queen” of the autumn garden has been cultivated for many years, and the question of whether this beauty can be kept at home has ceased to be relevant. The florist only has the task of choosing the most interesting variety for him, the decorative quality of which he can preserve after purchase and flowering.
To properly care for potted flower, it is important to know the main features of its agricultural technology. The main things to pay attention to are:
It is imperative to regularly care for your homemade green beauty, otherwise it will quickly lose its decorative value.
When choosing a suitable container for growing chrysanthemums at home, you need to consider the following nuances:
Chrysanthemums do not live long in the same pot. It is recommended to replant young bushes once a year (in addition to the first replantation after purchase), adults - once every 2-3 years. In addition, a transplant is required in the following cases:
Before replanting an indoor chrysanthemum, it is necessary to assess its condition. If the plant is healthy, it is simply transferred from pot to pot along with a lump of earth (this way the root system is less damaged). Then the new container is filled with fresh soil. For sick and pest-infested specimens, the soil is changed completely, carefully shaking it out from the roots. When planting, it is important to remember to add a good layer of drainage to the pot.
When the flowering time ends and the dormant period begins. This is an extremely important time of the year for the plant, when it rests and gains strength before the new active season and becomes topical issue about what to do next with the chrysanthemum in the pot.
After the chrysanthemum in the pot has bloomed, all its shoots must be cut off, leaving “stumps” no more than 15 cm high. For the winter, the plant needs to be put in a cool but well-lit place and watered regularly, but very sparingly: only enough so that the bush has enough strength to “survive” until spring.
A home flower can overwinter on the same windowsill where its growing season took place. In this case, care for it is carried out according to the same rules as before. And to prevent the shoots of a faded potted chrysanthemum from stretching out, it may need additional lighting.
Indoor chrysanthemums are usually propagated by cuttings. Planting material obtained during formative pruning of the crown: powerful stems are shortened by 10-15 cm, cut cuttings are planted in a moist substrate and the container is covered with film or glass. The greenhouse is regularly watered and ventilated. After the roots appear, the cuttings are planted in pots of suitable size and then cared for in the same way as adult plants.
Propagation by cuttings is the most effective, affordable and fairly simple way to obtain new bushes, which cannot be said about growing from seeds at home. The seed method requires patience and attention and often does not guarantee obtaining specimens that fully preserve individual characteristics varieties.
You can explain why a chrysanthemum in a pot does not bloom by the presence of the following errors in planting and care:
By eliminating these reasons, you can make the bush bloom amicably and abundantly. And in order not to be tormented every autumn by the question of why chrysanthemums do not bloom, it is important to initially correctly organize all the conditions for their cultivation.
Potted chrysanthemum is quite hardy and not at all capricious. But it can also be threatened by diseases and pests typical of most indoor plants. And if you don’t start fighting them in time, the flower dies very quickly.
The main pests of indoor plants that gardeners may encounter are:
This amazing flower decorates street flower beds, sidewalks, and home window sills. There are more than 40 varieties of home-grown chrysanthemums that thrive indoors.
To keep the bush safe and sound, and to prolong the flowering of chrysanthemums as long as possible, it has now become fashionable to grow chrysanthemums in pots. This way they will delight their owners for a long time with their colorful inflorescences, which can later be propagated.
Classification of chrysanthemums:
Zembla chrysanthemum is a garden crop. Its characteristic features are large flowers with tubular petals. Zembla is replete with a variety of colors: from red to greenish, from yellow to purple. Garden flowers are grown in open ground. Perennial bushes are dug up for the winter in order to be planted again in the spring.
White chrysanthemums large diameter flower growers classify it as “luxury”. They are not inferior to exquisite roses in their beauty and grandeur. Cut flowers with tall stems, compared to roses, will last up to 2 weeks in a vase. And if you change fresh water and trim the ends, they can last up to 20-25 days!
Korean chrysanthemum is the most common species that is actively grown in our country. The plant comes in two types: small-flowered and large-flowered. Each species is divided into subspecies, depending on the configuration and size of the petals.
Korean varieties are unpretentious, yet they adorn any landscape. This variety blooms almost all year round V indoors. The color range is striking in its diversity. Bright colors predominate warm colors, but also a lot of delicate pastel shades.
The following varieties of Korean chrysanthemum are popular in Russia:
Korean chrysanthemums are a favorite product of flower growers. They bloom for a long time, are always in demand on sale, and are very well adapted to any weather conditions.
Garden crops should not be grown at home, as they are cold-resistant and will not be able to take root in an apartment. Thanks to talented breeders, small indoor plants that grow in warm conditions were bred.
Chrysanthemum multiflora represents blooming ball with small inflorescences. Numerous buds bloom for one to two months. After flowering, the stems must be trimmed and the pot itself placed in a dark, secluded place that is well ventilated.
Chrysanthemum globulus is a decoration for anyone country house. Neat flowerpots will decorate the cottage and make the home cozy.
Indian chrysanthemum has a low bush, large flowering “caps” with a diameter of up to 15 cm.
This type has the following distinctive features:
It is possible to grow an Indian chrysanthemum at home on a window if you follow all the rules for caring for it.
Flowers became most popular in eastern countries: Japan, Korea, China. There they are considered a symbol of prosperity and well-being.
There is an art called “kanzashi chrysanthemum”. These are handmade products from fabric and ribbons that serve as decoration in the form of hairpins and brooches. The product is made to imitate a real flower of unprecedented beauty. This art was invented in Japan, but it is actively practiced in our country.
Indoor chrysanthemum differs from the garden one in its compact size with a spherical bush. The color range is represented by a wide variety of colors, and flowering lasts several months. Caring for a flower is not particularly difficult if you take into account all the nuances and secrets.
A chrysanthemum in a pot can become a real asset to an apartment if it is properly cared for. The plant loves light, but is afraid of direct sunlight. Therefore, initially the pot should be placed correctly: on the northeast side.
To care for a chrysanthemum without causing harm to it, you must follow important rules:
The first signs of poor care are falling leaves, wilting flowers and drying out of the bush.
For normal development indoor plant The following conditions must be met:
Watering should occur as the soil dries out. To do this, take a wooden knitting needle and insert it into the pot. After 1 minute, pull it out, then analyze it. If the wooden object is wet, it means it’s too early to water; if dry, you should water it from above a small amount water.
For irrigation, spring or settled water should be used. You can't water a flower tap water: it is hard and contains chlorine, which is harmful to the root system. The water temperature is also important: within 20-25 °C.
Large leaves should be wiped off dust or sprayed. The plant does not like dry air. Optimal conditions: moderate humidity, but no excess water in the pot or tray! To prevent water from remaining in the pot, there should be pebbles or expanded clay at the bottom, which will “regulate” excess moisture well.
A bush chrysanthemum purchased in a pot should remain in its native soil from the nursery until the end of its flowering period. But as soon as the plant has flowered, it should be transplanted into a larger pot with fresh soil. It is better to purchase soil in a specialized store, which is intended for flowering crops.
As a rule, this composition includes:
A thin layer of expanded clay should be placed at the bottom of the pot, which will serve as drainage, and then covered halfway with soil. The bush, along with its native soil, is transferred to a new pot, and covered with the remaining mixture. Lightly compact the top and water.
The new pot is placed in its original place: where the plant “felt” well. If garden soil is used for replanting, it should be disinfected, that is, calcined in the oven or poured with boiling water, and then dried. This will kill all harmful insects.
Chrysanthemums love acidic soil. For this purpose it is fertilized chicken droppings. However, you should not get carried away so as not to cause burns to the roots. To begin with, the soil is watered and then fertilized.
A young plant should be replanted once a year. An adult flower must be replanted as it grows. You should not immediately plant it in a large pot, as the root system will begin to actively develop. The new pot should be 3-4 cm larger in diameter than the previous one and 1-1.5 liters larger.
Healthy perennial readily produces young shoots, which can become the beginning of a new plant. Planting perennial chrysanthemums is carried out using three methods:
After the plant has flowered, it is placed in a dark place where it goes through a dormant period. In spring, the plant comes to life again, sending out young shoots from the mother bush. As a rule, there are from 4 to 12 such shoots. To get a new flower, you should transplant each shoot into a separate pot. The shoot must have roots. Within a year, the young growth will put out buds. And when it fades, it can be transplanted into a larger pot. And the cycle will repeat again.
Cutting method– less successful than the previous option, but also has a right to exist. Its essence lies in the fact that the side shoots are separated from an adult plant and placed in water or moist soil. The cuttings should be 12-15 cm. The container with the cuttings is covered with cellophane and then placed in a warm place. Polyethylene should be periodically opened slightly for ventilation. Once the cuttings take root, they can be transplanted into pots.
Chrysanthemum from seeds- a labor-intensive method of propagation. To do this, it is better to use purchased material from trusted agronomist-manufacturers. But you can also collect the seeds yourself. Self-collection of seeds is only important in the case of early and middle varieties. Since in late varieties the seeds do not have time to ripen or this requires special conditions.
For seedlings, you need boxes into which soil is poured and then sown. Soil with seeds is poured 1 cm from above river sand and water it. The tray is covered with polyethylene, then placed in a warm place. Every day, you should open the greenhouse to moisten the soil and ventilate it.
After 10-14 days, the first shoots will appear. Seedlings should be placed in a well-lit place. After 3-4 leaves have formed, the sprouts can be planted in pots.
An important condition for the good formation of a young plant is pinching its top. This is done to ensure that the bush is lush and voluminous, and the stems are strong.
Everyone loves beautiful, lush chrysanthemum buds that will enliven any space. But this phenomenon is temporary and after 1-2 months a period of rest begins. To give the plant the opportunity to bloom again, its dormant period should be properly organized.
After flowering, you should not only remove dry inflorescences from the bush, but also cut the stems to the very root. In fact, they leave an empty pot, in the ground of which the root system remains, waiting for spring. The pot should be placed in a cool, dark place and watered periodically: 2-3 times a month. With the onset of spring, the pot is placed in the same illuminated place and cared for according to the same scheme.
Some amateur gardeners ignore the dormant phase, “forcing” the plant to bloom again. To do this, after trimming the old shoots, they do not place it in the dark, but leave it in the same illuminated place. It is watered, moistened and fed as before. After a short period of time, the chrysanthemum again produces young shoots and also begins to bloom. This is an irrational decision, since the soil and the flower itself are depleted. After flowering again, the bush should be replanted and be sure to give it a rest.
Caring for a chrysanthemum is painstaking, but very exciting activity! By following a few simple rules, the home beauty will definitely reward her owners with luxurious inflorescences! Especially magnificent are the yellow chrysanthemums, which in the fall truly give positive mood! The color yellow gives joy, optimism, as well as a special atmosphere of peace and prosperity.
In eastern countries, the chrysanthemum is celebrated. I even use some varieties as medicinal raw materials.
The petals of this wonderful plant contain:
Infusions and decoctions of special varieties of petals are an excellent remedy for headaches.
A bouquet of chrysanthemums always gives a sunny and positive mood. Amazing flowers come in a wide variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Florists often complement their compositions with chrysanthemums, since these flowers last a very long time, delighting with their beauty.
Indoor flowers decorate any apartment or house, and chrysanthemums also delight with long and beautiful flowering in the autumn. These plants can be found not only on the street, but also at home. There are many varieties of chrysanthemums that are grown on a windowsill or balcony. Chrysanthemums differ in types, shapes, colors, bush and bud sizes, so they are easy to choose for the interior of your home, according to your preferences and taste.
You should not buy chrysanthemums with blossoming flowers. They will bloom quickly. The bushes must be fully formed. The leaves should be green, the lower part of the plant should be slightly woody, and the roots should be strong and strong. The presence of stains, inclusions or mechanical damage indicates that such a chrysanthemum is not worth buying, as it will hurt and may die in the future.
As an indoor flower, the best option is the miniature chrysanthemum, which grows from 15 to 70 centimeters in height. The stems of the plants are smooth or slightly hairy. The leaves are bright, soft green, dissected or jagged, smooth or hairy. The buds can be different, ranging from small ones, up to 2.5 centimeters in size, to large ones, which reach 25 centimeters in diameter. Flowering patterns among plants may vary.
Flowers can be single, double, blanketed or double-rowed.
Particularly popular for growing at home are bush chrysanthemums with non-double flowers, similar in shape to daisies, and varieties that form a ball when flowering. For the terrace and spacious loggia You can buy cascading chrysanthemums that are suitable for hanging gardening.
Terry yellow variety For the home, the most often chosen are mulberry-leaved, spherical, shrubby, Korean, Indian, Chinese varieties chrysanthemums They have a variety of flowers on a lush bush. The color can be varied: white, yellow, orange, pink, orange, lilac, two-color or have various shades. Flower cores most often contrast in color with the petals.
Low-growing chrysanthemums in pots are not demanding in care and will delight you with their flowering for several weeks. With proper care and good lighting, flowering can be extended up to 2 months.
Caring for chrysanthemums includes:
Flower pots must be placed on the east or west side. Chrysanthemums do not bloom on the north side. And in the south they will begin to wither and get sick. These plants do not like direct sunlight or extreme heat. The sun can damage the leaves and cause burns. The best option is a well-lit, cool balcony or loggia.
If the plants do not bloom and begin to disappear, then you need to check whether they have enough light. Poor lighting, as well as excess light, is detrimental to chrysanthemums.
Daylight hours for chrysanthemums should be at least 7 and no more than 10 hours a day.
For good growth The best temperature for flowers is considered to be: in summer – +20-23 degrees, in autumn and spring – +15-18 degrees, in winter – +3-8 degrees. At this temperature, many buds form on the bushes. The flowering is lush and long lasting.
Chrysanthemums in pots need to be watered frequently. Flowers are watered in the evening, after sunset, twice a week. In winter, watering should be reduced. Watering time can be determined by the drying of the top layer of soil in the pots. The soil should not dry out, as this leads to yellowing and falling leaves.
Chrysanthemums love water, but too much moisture is also detrimental to them.
If you overwater the flowers, mold and fungi will appear in the soil, and they will begin to hurt.
There is no need to pour water into the pan. Watering should be frequent, but not abundant. The water needs to be warm and settled.
Regular spraying from a spray bottle or container with water, and air humidifiers located near plants help maintain the required level of moisture in the air.
Pruning and shaping of bushes is necessary to prolong the flowering stage of chrysanthemums. In order for the plants to bloom profusely and luxuriantly, their tops must be pinched twice during the growing season. This procedure is performed before the awakening of new buds (in early March) and before the formation of buds (in mid-August).
All thin, protruding, twisted shoots, yellow leaves are cut off. This creates the correct, rounded shape of the bushes.
If the branches have become very elongated over the winter, they need to be pruned. By autumn, without shaping, chrysanthemum bushes become shapeless, elongated, and flowering is uneven.
Strong plants with lush flowers require fertilizing. Fertilizers are applied after transplanting the bushes. To do this, take a solution of Kristalon, Bon Forte or any other fertilizer containing: nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, zinc and phosphorus. Fertilizing promotes the development of the entire plant and produces abundant flowering.
During the formation of bushes, nitrogen fertilizers are used. Before chrysanthemums bloom, phosphorus-potassium compounds are used.
You can use an infusion of bird droppings diluted in a ratio of 1:30 with water or an infusion of mullein diluted in a ratio of 1:10. The solution is applied until buds form once every 5 days.
After purchasing the chrysanthemum, after flowering, it is necessary to transplant it into a new pot with drainage holes. It is best to take a ceramic or clay container. The new pot is taken 2 centimeters wider and 1.5 liters deeper than the old one.
Young bushes are subsequently replanted once a year, adult plants once every 2 years.
The active growth period for chrysanthemums begins in March. In this case, the plants can be transplanted into new pots.
Before transplanting, the chrysanthemum needs to be prepared. Replaced old land to a new one. The composition of the soil should be similar (fertile soil, turf or peat, deciduous soil, humus, coarse sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1:1).
To disinfect the substrate, it must be poured with boiling water with the addition of a weak solution of potassium permanganate or calcined in the oven for 3 hours at a temperature of 100 degrees. After pouring boiling water, the soil must be thoroughly dried. Shop soil mixture does not need processing.
Expanded clay, vermiculite or broken brick are used as drainage, which is placed at the bottom of the pot.
The flower bush is transplanted completely or divided into fragments. From the separated parts new chrysanthemum bushes are obtained.
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings.
After flowering, the chrysanthemum produces seeds that can be used for sowing.
At home, chrysanthemums are rarely grown from seeds; this is a painstaking and time-consuming method. This requires seedling pots or a container and greenhouse growing conditions with normal level humidity and temperature conditions.
The seeds are laid out in the prepared soil and covered with a thin layer of coarse sand. After this, the containers are sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle, covered with film and placed in a cool place. The film must be opened from time to time to ventilate and remove condensation.
After half a month, sprouts appear. The seedlings are installed on the windowsill, and after 3-4 leaves appear, they are transplanted into separate containers. After rooting, the top of the plant is pinched to form round shape bush.
This growing process takes quite a long time. Flower growers prefer more simple options cultivation, such as propagation by budding (division) and cuttings.
When propagating a bush by budding, after wintering it needs to be pulled out of the pot, carefully remove the earthen lump and divide the roots into parts. From one mature bush you can get 5-6 new bushes. Divided plants are planted in individual pots with fertile soil. Young seedlings require frequent watering. Chrysanthemums need to be watered every 2-3 days.
The best time to propagate chrysanthemums by cuttings is early spring.
After shoots appear on overwintered stems, cuttings 12 centimeters long are cut from the side stems. For quick rooting, the lower part is placed in a solution of any growth stimulants, for example Kornevin. The cuttings are planted in the prepared substrate to a depth of 1.5 centimeters.
As a container for growing, you can use a box or plastic cups with holes in the bottom. After planting the cuttings, the containers are covered with a transparent film to create a greenhouse effect. Periodically, the film must be opened slightly to ventilate the plants.
As chrysanthemums grow, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 10-13 centimeters. When new leaves appear, the top is pinched, this stimulates the growth of side shoots.
If chrysanthemums turn yellow and dry out, this indicates improper care for them or the presence of diseases or pests.
To eliminate all of the above ailments, fungicides are used. During the treatment period, the plant must be removed from healthy flowers for at least 20 days, and then transplanted into a new pot with a substrate of similar composition.
Chrysanthemums, in addition to diseases, are susceptible to invasion by aphids, thrips and red spider mite.
Aphids damage buds, upper parts of shoots, and lower parts of foliage. Damaged areas become discolored, foliage turns yellow, curls and falls off. Aphids attack flowers all year round. To combat insects, the following are used: Fitoverm, Actellik, Derris, Inta-vir, Decis. If the bushes are severely damaged, the treatment is repeated after 5 days.
Thrips form numerous colonies on the lower part of the foliage; light dots appear on top of the leaves. The upper part becomes grayish-brown with a characteristic silvery tint. To eliminate the pest, the following are used: Inta-vir, Actellik, Fitoverm and Decis. In case of severe damage, the treatment is repeated.
Red spider mites can often be seen on plant leaves, damaging the surface of the leaves. Chrysanthemums damaged by the pest have pale yellow leaves and solid whitish spots appear on their surface. Leaves fall prematurely. To combat the pest, use a weak soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm, Fufan, Derris.
After flowering ends, the stems need to be shortened to 10-15 centimeters. The plant is placed on the balcony, in the cellar, pantry or remains on the windowsill. In early spring The chrysanthemum is gradually brought out of dormancy and transplanted into a new container.
Care after purchase consists of transplanting the plant into a new container and further observing the rules of irrigation, lighting and formation of bushes.
After flowering ends, the bushes should be trimmed, leaving 15 centimeters of length and placed in a dry place with an air temperature of 5-8 degrees and sufficient lighting.
Watering the bushes in winter is reduced to once a month.
If it is not possible to take the plants to a cool place, you can leave them on the windowsills. In this case, flowers need to be trimmed, dry buds, leaves and branches removed.
In warm conditions, watering chrysanthemums does not differ from the growing season.
Chrysanthemums can and, if possible, should be planted outside. Plants are replanted from the beginning of March (after the soil warms up) until the end of May. Chrysanthemums can withstand short-term frosts down to -3 degrees. Transplanting to the street promotes the growth of flowers, their strengthening and abundant flowering in the fall.
With the onset of cold weather, plants need to be dug out of the ground, placed in pots and brought into a warm place. Two weeks after planting, fertilizers are applied to the soil. If there is humus in the ground, fertilizing can be done after a month.
When chrysanthemums are functioning properly, they bloom in the fall. If this does not happen, then this is a clear sign of poor plant care. With late pruning, lack of light, poor soil and lack of fertilizing, buds do not form on the bush. When these problems are eliminated, the bush begins to grow and subsequently pleases with beautiful flowers.
During the flowering period, one must not forget about removing dried foliage and flowers, otherwise the plant may dry out.
Indoor chrysanthemum can decorate any window sill, balcony or loggia. The variety of shapes and colors allows you to choose the appropriate variety that will combine with other plants or stand out against their background. Proper care guarantees the beauty and uniqueness of flowers.
A chrysanthemum can be a decoration for any home flower garden. Having planted a plant at home, you will admire its beauty for a long time. Few people know that indoor chrysanthemum is easy to care for. It is enough to know a few important rules on how best to choose seedlings and grow a beautiful autumn flower on the window at home.
Using special means, you can stop the growth of a flower
This plant, amazing in its beauty, comes from the Middle Kingdom. Among the eastern peoples, the flower was associated with the Sun, so it is no coincidence that the word “chrysanthemum” means “golden”.
Breeders managed to develop more than 160 varieties. Bush chrysanthemums in pots belong to the genus Asteraceae. They differ not only in their colors (there are not only blue and purple flowers), but also in the shape of the bush, bud and petals. The plant is rightfully a favorite of many gardeners who have learned to grow it at home.
The flower is perennial; you can admire its amazing beauty for a long time. Yellow, white, burgundy, lilac or pink chrysanthemum blooms until late autumn:
Potted chrysanthemum is miniature. Flowers are prevented from growing by special preparations that are used for growing ornamental plants at home.
The appearance of a flower always signals its hidden diseases. Dull and dried petals and inflorescences covered with specks are a reason to think about the health of flowers. Carefully examine the bushes for visible diseases. Rusted leaves, plaque on the stem, cobwebs - all these are signs of various ailments.
Do not place new plants next to other flowers. Let them be in isolation for the first time, gradually adapting to the house.
They buy such types of home chrysanthemums as Chinese and Korean. They are distinguished by their small bud size - up to 3 cm - and a rather short stem - 70-80 cm. Charm and Minimum varieties are also in demand, which are characterized by a variety of color shades and a miniature bush size - 15-25 cm.
Particularly popular among people who collect chrysanthemums in pots are the climbing flower varieties. These types include the White Cascade and Pink Cascade varieties. These chrysanthemums are chosen for decoration winter gardens and greenhouses.
Indian decorative chrysanthemum is ideal for growing on a windowsill. This variety of flowers was bred specifically for indoor selection. Select varieties called Snow Elf and Aurora. Indian chrysanthemum is not suitable for growing in the garden. It is forbidden to plant it in open ground.
Chrysanthemum at home does not require special care rules. It will be enough to provide the flower with regular watering, monitor the lighting and do not forget about feeding the flowers. IN summer time year, seedlings are allowed to be taken outside.
Growing a flower begins with the right choice of place to place it in the house. It is important that the potted plant is located in the western part of the apartment. The sun can damage the plant, so it is better not to place flowers on windowsills facing south. By placing the plant in the northern part of the house, you will encourage slow growth and flowering of the seedlings. Most of all, decorative chrysanthemum loves glazed balconies, where there is always good lighting.
Chrysanthemum in a pot does not like heat. Favorite time The year for flowering of the plant is autumn, when it is cool and daylight hours are shortened. Gardeners use these factors to achieve repeated flowering. In early spring, to ensure active flowering, plants are exposed to cool weather.
It is optimal if the temperature in the home garden is 21-23 °C. The room must be ventilated. In summer it should not allow direct rays to pass through. Flowers are not afraid of the cold, so in winter they can easily tolerate low temperatures (down to -8 °C). The most suitable temperature for autumn is 16-18 °C. This will help extend the flowering period.
Potted crops need good watering. Remember that with abundant moisture it is necessary to ensure that the soil does not rot. This plant does not like water added to the tray. Maintain regular watering (every 3-4 days), otherwise you will encounter the inflorescences turning yellow and withering.
Don’t forget to sometimes humidify the air and spray the flowers with water room temperature. You can place a container of liquid next to the seedlings or purchase a special air humidifier.
Homemade chrysanthemums in pots require constant addition of minerals and organic matter. Growing a flower includes fertilizing with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, which ensures active growth. Ready-made fertilizer mixtures can be purchased at any specialty store. Humus, wood ash and compost are suitable for the plant.
During the flowering period, the frequency of fertilizer application must be increased to 1 time every 10 days. If flower depletion is observed, try adding organic matter every 3-4 days. For caring for potted chrysanthemums, manure dissolved in water (1:10) is best suited. Wait until the growing season and start feeding the plant with this organic fertilizer. To prevent the flower from emitting an unpleasant odor, take it to an open balcony.
Failure to follow these rules may cause the plant to stop developing and its leaves to turn yellow and fall off.
Wood ash - natural fertilizer for flowers
Growing chrysanthemums in a pot involves following several basic rules.
For replanting, take a larger pot so as not to damage the root system
In spring, potted chrysanthemums begin to be prepared for flowering in early March. There are several ways to do this.
One of the most common problems faced by people planning to grow indoor chrysanthemums is disruption of the plant's flowering. In autumn, a healthy flower should bloom into beautiful buds.
Check the lighting of the flowers. Remember that the most suitable daylight hours for them is 9-10 hours. If your chrysanthemums spend less time in the light, this may affect the formation of inflorescences. Don't forget to enter mineral fertilizers. For active formation of buds, use potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Check whether you are pruning the plant correctly.
There are several ways to replant chrysanthemums at home.
Caring for potted chrysanthemums includes the fight against various diseases. House flowers suffer from powdery mildew, gray rot and septoria - this fungal diseases, which are reflected in the appearance of the plant.
As they multiply, fungal spores infect the stem, leaves and even buds. This leads to the fact that the plant begins to wither, turns yellow, losing its vitality, and gradually dries out.
Powdery mildew affects the inflorescences and foliage of chrysanthemums. The disease manifests itself as a whitish coating on the plant. main reason, due to which the disease develops, is a violation of the rules of plant care. Excessive humidity in the house promotes the development of fungus on flowers. The “Fungicide” solution will help combat powdery mildew.
Towards education brown spots and gray rot causes a bluish coating on the foliage. The drug “Fundazol” will help save chrysanthemums from the rapid development of fungus. This remedy is also used if large rusty spots appear on the plant - this is how septoria manifests itself.
No less often, domestic flowers are attacked by insect pests. When the temperature regime is violated, a red mite settles in a dry room, which very quickly entangles flowers and leaves with its web, preventing them from growing and developing normally. Special preparations “Pyrethrum” and “Actellik” will help fight insects.
Chrysanthemum - wonderful decoration for any home garden. This flower is easy to care for, and its amazing beauty and pleasant smell will delight you for a very long time. Tips for caring for chrysanthemums at home will help you grow a beautiful and healthy flower. The main thing is to remember to regularly water and fertilize the plant, monitor the temperature and lighting in the room, especially in warm time year, and prune your seedlings properly in winter. If you follow these rules, you will definitely be able to grow beautiful chrysanthemums in pots.
Flowers chrysanthemums (lat. Chrysanthemum) belong to the genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Compositae, or Asteraceae, family. The genus includes about 30 species, representatives of which grow in zones with cool and temperate climates, mostly in Asia. IN garden culture chrysanthemum has been known for more than a thousand years, and the plant came to Europe in the 17th century. Many chrysanthemums can be grown outdoors, but there are species that grow well in greenhouses and at home.
Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.
Homemade chrysanthemum is not large in size, since it is grown by artificially stopping its growth with specially developed preparations. Although there have been cases where a purchased cutting of a home chrysanthemum produced a garden-sized plant.
Usually indoor chrysanthemum is low-growing varieties mulberry chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum, which are abundant flowering bushes height from 15 to 70 cm. Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, in addition, varieties of home chrysanthemum differ in the shape of the flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown at home.
Chrysanthemums usually bloom at home in autumn and winter, but in order for its flowering to last as long as possible, you should create optimal conditions for the plant and follow certain care rules.
What maintenance conditions does home chrysanthemum require? How to care for chrysanthemums in an apartment? Firstly, you need to set a temperature regime that is comfortable for it, secondly, maintain the required level of illumination, and thirdly, maintain an optimal water balance for the flower.
It is difficult to call chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, so in summer it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in autumn-spring - at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is under this temperature regime that many buds are formed, and chrysanthemum flowering is long and abundant.
As for lighting, growing chrysanthemums in a pot is carried out on window sills oriented to the east or west, since on southern windows the flowers can wither from excess sun, and on northern windows they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real warmth, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.
During the period of active growth, you will need to pinch and trim the chrysanthemum to form a thick and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.
Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first of all proper watering. Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly moist all the time. Caring for chrysanthemums at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but you should also not allow excess moisture in the pot and tray.
In hot weather, it is advisable to spray the chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so much, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.
Caring for home chrysanthemums in pots involves annually replanting young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be replanted once every two to three years.
As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1, and in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom abundantly, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Do not plant chrysanthemum in acidic soil, it does not like it. Before filling a new pot with soil mixture, a layer of drainage should be placed in it, and the substrate should be poured with boiling water and dried.
Caring for home chrysanthemums requires adding fertilizer to the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral supplements, since potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer, in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2.
Chrysanthemum also reacts well to liquid organic matter. An adult flower requires mineral fertilizers to be added to the soil every 10 days, and a mullein solution (1 part of fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Feed the chrysanthemum until the formation of buds.
As soon as the chrysanthemum fades, it needs to be put into a dormant state. Trim its shoots and place the pot with the plant in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to produce new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a larger container and returned to its previous conditions.
The easiest way to propagate home chrysanthemums is with green, non-lignified cuttings. To use cuttings, side shoots about 10 cm long are cut from the branch, the leaves are removed from their lower part and then the cuttings are placed in water so that they grow roots. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted several at a time in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil around them is compacted and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of side shoots, the tops of the cuttings are pinched.
You can plant the cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with the cuttings with a plastic cap to create Greenhouse effect. The cap is removed for a while every day for ventilation and condensation is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.
During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is removed from the pot, the root system is carefully freed from the soil, the plant is washed and divided with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. Cuts on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the same way as we have already described.
How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? Propagated best by seed Korean varieties and hybrids. Sow chrysanthemum seeds in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate fried at a temperature of 110-130º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. You can also use store-bought as a substrate. flower ground, which should also be disinfected before planting.
There is no need to plant the seeds of perennial varieties; they are only lightly pressed to the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. Keep crops at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, ventilating, removing condensation from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as the need arises.
Shoots should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the room conditions.
At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplantation, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra so that they quickly take root and begin to develop. Subsequently, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to be cared for as adult plants.
As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing blooming chrysanthemums in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.
In improper conditions and with improper care, chrysanthemum can develop powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.
Powdery mildew appears as a loose whitish coating on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. As the disease progresses, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. Destroys fungi causing disease, treating the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skor or other fungicidal preparations.
Septoria is also a fungal disease that can be diagnosed by grey-brown or rusty spots with a yellow outline appearing on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and in their center black dots appear - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry out, the stems become brown, wrinkle and bend. The diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots should be removed from it, and then treated with a solution of Kuproxat, Oksikhom or copper sulfate. The chrysanthemum should remain in quarantine until you are sure it is healthy.
Gray mold, or botrytis, is also fungal in nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers the ground organs with a gray fluffy coating, under which the plant tissues die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux mixture, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering begins.
Among the pests that pose a danger to chrysanthemums are aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennies.
Aphids, thrips and pennies are sucking pests that feed on plant cell sap. They are destroyed by treating the chrysanthemum with insectoacaricidal preparations such as Actellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.
As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm and its presence on chrysanthemum cannot be detected. The appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins may indicate damage to the plant by nematodes. lower leaves which gradually turn brown. Subsequently, the leaves curl, dry out and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves.
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