Epoxy varnish is a solution of epoxy, most often diane, resins based on organic solvents.
Thanks to the application of the composition, a durable waterproof layer is created that protects wooden surfaces from mechanical and climatic influences, as well as alkalis.
Different types varnishes are used for the manufacture of putties and are used for finishing metal and polymer substrates.
Before use, a hardener is added to the varnish depending on the type of resin. This results in a two-component composition with excellent technical characteristics. . In addition to the characteristic shine, the substance provides increased anti-corrosion and mechanical strength. This is a safe material that does not contain toxic compounds, but the solvents that are also used during work contain toxic substances.
Among the disadvantages of varnish, one can highlight insufficient plasticity, due to its structure and its constituent components. In addition, proper mixing is necessary to obtain the optimal coating quality.
Epoxy varnishes are used mainly for wood surfaces: parquet and plank floors, window frames, doors, as well as for decoration and protection wooden furniture. There are special formulations, for example, "Elakor-ED", which are intended for filling a 3D floor with flocks (chips, glitters, sparkles).
The quality of the resulting film directly depends on the type of resin used. “ED-20” is considered the most durable, and therefore the material is more expensive than its analogues based on “ED-16”.
This type of product is a resin solution for fluoroplastic-epoxy varnishes, a hardener and certain fluoropolymer compounds of the “F-32ln” type. The peculiarity of this group of materials is:
Fluoroplastic varnishes of cold and hot curing correspond to existing standards safety and GOST standards. When choosing, you should also pay attention to the accompanying documentation and quality certificates.
Due to their heat resistance and electrical insulating properties, these materials:
The technology for applying them to the surface can be different: manually with a brush, using air and airless spraying, or dipping.
Epoxy varnish coatings, made with a transparent base and a transparent hardener, are designed to add gloss to any surface, as well as to protect them from aggressive chemical attack. They are used in the construction of self-leveling floors with decorative elements, since they are able to hide small cracks and scratches.
Basic positive traits:
Clear epoxy coatings are required for processing refrigeration equipment, surfaces in production workshops and warehouses, garages, parking lots and other residential and public places.
An example of such a material is light-resistant, UV-resistant “Lak-2K”, helping to form a completely transparent and durable base.
"Elakor-ED" is an epoxy-polyurethane-based material, the main purpose of which is the arrangement of floors, although in practice the composition is also used to form a high-strength film on other surfaces.
Thanks to its composition, the varnish repels moisture, grease and dirt, and can withstand temperature changes from -220 to +120 degrees.
The product is easy to use and allows you to create a glossy finish. protective covering literally in a day. However, it is important to know how to apply the product correctly.
First carried out preparatory work:
A hardener is added to the varnish, which must be stirred for 10 minutes.
After graduation chemical reaction(bubble formation) application can begin.
Since epoxy-polyurethane compounds harden within an hour, if the area to be treated is large, it is better to prepare the solution in parts. Application is carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 and not higher than +30 degrees with a roller, brush or a special pneumatic device. Using a brush requires regular cleaning with a solvent. Apply varnish cross to cross with a roller.
When working, it is recommended to apply at least three layers of varnish, which will ensure maximum density and strength. For one square meter you need to use at least 120 grams of solution. Any deviations up or down will lead to an unsatisfactory result or wrinkling of the composition on the surface.
Despite the absence of odor, it is advisable to carry out all work with epoxy mixtures in a special suit and gas mask, since a respirator is not able to protect the eyes and lungs from toxic fumes. This is especially true for EP series varnishes, since they contain toxic solvents.
Epoxy varnishes not only make the coating beautiful, but also increase its service life due to its high resistance to various external influences.
About how to make polymer epoxy concrete floor covering in garage country house, see below.
Even if you wash and thoroughly dry the bathtub after each use, the enamel of this sanitary fixture will not remain pristine white and shiny as when purchased. Over time, the inner surface of the bowl turns yellow and becomes covered with small cracks and chips due to constant contact with water and mechanical stress.
Only re-enamelling the bathtub with your own hands can restore the whiteness and gloss. High-quality bathroom enamel applied to a prepared surface can extend the service life of the product by 1.5-5 times at a relatively low cost. In this article we will tell you what types of coating compositions are used for this and how they differ.
During the production process, each washing container undergoes an enameling procedure, that is, it is covered with a layer of resistant paint, giving the surface color, glossy shine and smoothness. IN modern models Bathroom enamel in powder form is applied electrostatically and then “baked” at high temperature, so the coating is durable and strong. You can paint the bowl at home with acrylic or epoxy enamel using a roller, brush or pouring method.
These compounds are used because they have the following qualities:
Please note that the enamel coating of a bathtub at home is very different from the factory one, so it is more fragile. The service life of an epoxy paint composition is 5-7 years, acrylic - 8-15 years, and enamel in cans used for local repair of cracks - only 1-2 years.
To paint the bath yourself to restore the whiteness, shine and smoothness of the product, use different kinds specialized enamel, which is developed taking into account the conditions of use. The quality of re-enamelling of plumbing fixtures depends on 3 factors: the correct choice of paint composition, the quality of the enamel and the correct preparation of the surface for application.
Bath enamels differ according to the following criteria:
Important! To facilitate the application of enamel, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface of the bathtub for painting. Before painting a product at home, it must be cleaned of dirt, old enamel removed, degreased and thoroughly dried. The quality and durability of the effect depends on compliance with enameling technology.
Bathroom enamel based on epoxy resins is an effective and affordable means of restoring the whiteness, shine and smoothness of a product. It is a two or three-component mixture consisting of a base, a hardener and a plasticizer, with a thick, viscous consistency. The enamel is applied using a natural brush or roller in several layers. This type includes the popular brands Epoksin-51, Epoksin-51S and Reaflex-50 from the famous Finnish company Tikkurila.
The advantages of epoxy enamel are:
Note! Before painting a plumbing fixture with epoxy enamel, keep in mind that the drying time of this composition is 5-7 days. For the first 2-3 days after application, you should not even enter the room so that dust does not settle on the bathtub, and after that you should limit the use of water. There is a simple rule: the more time it takes for the enamel to dry, the stronger and more stable the coating.
Acrylic-based enamel – more modern and effective remedy for painting sanitary equipment. It creates a stable, durable, smooth and glossy coating 6 mm thick. Acrylic enamel is a two-component mixture of base and hardener. Compared to epoxy enamel, liquid acrylic is more fluid and flexible. This coloring composition is applied by pouring or brushing.. The most popular acrylic compound used for bathtub renovation is Stakryl.
Acrylic-based enamels have the following advantages:
Liquid acrylic for painting bathtubs is more demanding in terms of surface preparation. In order for the coating to be smooth and durable, it is necessary to clean the product, remove upper layer old enamel sandpaper or grinder with a sanding disc, seal chips and cracks with putty, degrease, and then dry thoroughly with a hair dryer. Only if these conditions are met will the result be lasting and of high quality.
What is clear epoxy varnish? This is an epoxy resin solution supplied in a two-part form. It is suitable for covering new parquet and wooden floors, door panels. Since the varnish is a two-component epoxy-based varnish, it must be prepared immediately before use. How to do it?
The hardener is added and mixed thoroughly for 5-10 minutes. After that it can be used. Suitable for finishing furniture and home ( wooden surfaces). This product is not suitable for application over previously varnished surfaces unless all previous layers of the product have been removed.
Epoxy varnish, being a two-part pre-packaged liquid, is easy to use. Can be sprayed, applied with a brush or roller. It gives high gloss and smoothness to the surface.
The varnish is colorless. Acts as a protective barrier to the treated surface. Good scratch and abrasion resistance. When to save natural look wood, epoxy wood varnish is used.
Made from high quality epoxy resin in two-component form with polyamide hardener. Epoxy varnish preserves the natural beauty of wood. Excellent chemical and abrasion resistance. Can be used for processing various surfaces, such as:
It can be applied to industrial floors as an epoxy treatment like finishing coating for shine and hygiene.
Gives shine (can also be supplied with a polished finish) eggshells). You can cover floors with this varnish. The product will adhere well due to its excellent abrasion resistance.
Apply with a brush or spray. A mask should be used for spraying. Surface preparation has great importance. The surface must be dry, clean, free from grease, oil, rust and other contaminants.
Supplied in two-component form. The two components must be thoroughly mixed and left for 15-20 minutes before application. To facilitate cleaning, and in particular for application to porous wood, the varnish should be mixed with an epoxy thinner.
Care should be taken to avoid mixing more than required quantities of material as it must be used during the working day. If less than 4 liters of material is required, then the base and catalyst should be mixed strictly in accordance with the proportions indicated on the container.
The surface dries within two hours. Can be re-coated after a few hours. Reaches maximum hardness 7 days after application.
Before applying to wood products being processed for the first time, it is necessary to prepare the surface. Apply three to four coats of two-part epoxy clearcoat. The first must be diluted to 20% to ensure good penetration into wood. Subsequent layers may be of lower or higher concentration.
Mixed substances can be applied with a spray device, brush or roller. A minimum of two layers must be applied at intervals of 3-4 hours. The interval should not exceed 8 hours. Do not leave mixed substances overnight.
Previously varnished products are treated a little differently. Remove all previous coatings using Crown paint and varnish remover. It is recommended to use mechanical sanding equipment on such floors. Apply epoxy varnish in three or four layers.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sun rays. Do not apply to damp surfaces or fresh concrete. Working areas must be well ventilated, since solvent vapors should not be inhaled for a long time. Smoking is not allowed during work. The composition must be used away from open fire, etc.
Fluoroplastic-epoxy varnish is a solution of resin, hardener and fluorine, polymer compounds.
Main features:
This type is resistant to oxidizing agents. Before applying it, it is necessary to first prepare the surface by cleaning it, and it should also be degreased. Fluoroplastic-epoxy varnishes are used after the surface has been primed with butyral phosphate or epoxy compounds. Temperature the use of such varnish is in the range from -5 ˚С to +18 ˚С.
Cold-curing epoxy varnish is often used in everyday life, or in production, or where it is not possible to use heat treatment. For products that need to withstand heavy loads, high temperatures and chemical substances, hot-curing varnishes are used.
Now you know what epoxy varnish is, what base it is made of, and what advantages it has. We also looked at the features of such a tool. In addition, the article described the nuances of using cold and hot curing varnishes.
Replacing a “dead” bathtub is an expensive business. Smarter and more economical total costs combine it with renovating the bathroom, but this will take a long time. What if nice bath do you need it now, but don’t have the money? Let’s say you bought a used apartment and went all out. Or a child appeared. Or there are some other everyday circumstances that force you to postpone replacing the bathtub for a long time. For example: the bathroom is well decorated, the bathtub is cast iron, solid, but there are streaks of rust and the enamel has peeled off in some places. In this case best option– painting the bathtub with your own hands.
In the case of a cast iron bathtub in a decent bathroom Alternative option– installation in a bathtub acrylic liner(“bath in a bath”) This method has proven itself well and is widely used throughout the world.
But, firstly, the liner (acrylic insert) is not much cheaper new bath, but you can’t insert it yourself. The installation of bathtubs in bathtubs is carried out by companies with necessary equipment and a staff of specialists.
Secondly, the acrylic insert is not painted, and therefore is not the subject of this article. Therefore, if you need a deep renovation of an old bathroom, read more about it here.
Is it possible to paint a bathtub yourself? There are so many scary warnings going around!
You can paint the bathtub yourself if you have some skills painting work and know the basics of safety precautions when working with volatile aggressive substances. If you have had to repair a yacht or boat, then you will not find anything new in the technology of painting a bathtub. You just need to stock up on protective equipment, tools and supplies. In addition, it is advisable to have basic plumbing skills.
What paint should I paint my bathtub with? There are only two options: enamel based on epoxy or acrylic resin.
In general, if you are a fairly experienced painter or boater, you are better off working with epoxy. If you are just a neat person without solid working skills, then it is better to use acrylic.
It’s not uncommon in life: a tin bathtub, and even leaky, but still no money. How can we be here? You will need a piece of satin-weave fiberglass or your wife's old tights. The piece should be large enough to cover the fistula three or four times with a 5-7 cm grip on the sides. You also need the most common epoxy glue.
First, the fiberglass is put to boil, and the tights are thoroughly washed. It is necessary to boil the fiberglass to remove the remaining paraffin, which is used to coat the fiberglass before weaving. Boil for an hour and a half, after 10-15 minutes carefully draining the top layer of water by a third.
The specifics of bathtub and yacht repair work have a lot in common: from painting features to methods of repairing holes
In the meantime, the fistula with a chip of enamel and the space of 10-15 cm around them are treated with Durex until the metal is shiny and the enamel slopes smoothly to the metal. Then the dust is collected with a vacuum cleaner without an attachment, and the treated area is degreased several times with acetone or solvent until the rags stop getting dirty during degreasing. Then a piece of plastic film is placed on the outside and secured crosswise with several strips of tape.
Now we prepare epoxy glue, spread the grease-free area, apply a fabric patch 2-3 cm in size to the sides of the chip, and punch it with an end brush until there are no bubbles. When the epoxy has set to a jelly-like state, apply its second layer and apply the next patch, larger in size than the first (again with 2-3 cm of sticking to the sides). So you need to apply 2-5 patches. After the epoxy has completely cured, remove the edges of the patches flush with sandpaper; then we paint the bathtub.
Note: In addition to several bathtubs repaired in this way, which have been in good service for more than 10 years, the author of these lines knows of a yacht that has been sailing safely for 8 years with a hole repaired in the same way, and for repairs it was necessary to ground the ship aground, and use ... the panties of passengers as the basis for the patch.
Preparing a bathtub for painting comes down to thorough degreasing and creating a solid, rough surface. The adhesion (sticking) of the repair compound significantly depends on the size of micro-irregularities, and its resistance in the future depends on plasticity. Already from the photographs of bathtubs in which new enamel “climbed”, it is clear that the root cause of cracking was thermal deformation. Therefore, we will immediately give two pieces of advice:
Tip 1: For abrasive treatment of the bathtub, use sandpaper No. 1. It will take longer to work, but if you first remove the streaks with coarse sandpaper and then smooth it to a matte finish with fine sandpaper, there will be “micro-cavities” invisible to the eye, into which the enamel will not penetrate, but which will become places where residual stresses accumulate and areas of cracking.
Tip 2: when working with epoxy, in addition to the thinner (acetone or solvent), add 5% by volume of plasticizer - dibutyl phthalate - to the ready-to-use compound; It is used as a mosquito repellent. This “secret” has long been well known to builders of small boats and other manufacturers of fiberglass products.
The substances used for the restoration of bathtubs have volatile aggressive components. Therefore, before starting work, you need to remove everything from the bathroom except the bathtub itself and earthenware (washbasins, bidets, etc.) If a washing machine, it needs to be wrapped up carefully plastic film, and seal the cracks in the wrapper with tape or masking tape. It is also necessary to protect nickel-plated taps; shower with hose - remove.
Preparing for painting cast iron bath begins with cleaning from surface contaminants. To do this, pour oxalic acid, Pemolux, or another active detergent into a path at the bottom of the bath.
We slightly moisten the path of detergent with water to make a paste, and with an ordinary household sponge (new) we spread it from the bottom along the walls to the top. This work, like all subsequent ones, must be done when open door bathtubs, apartment windows, wearing gloves and an apron. If oxalic acid is used, also in a respirator (gas mask).
We keep the detergent mixture in the bath for 10-15 minutes, then rinse it off and fill the bath to the brim. Let it sit for another 15-20 minutes and drain the water. Now you can begin abrasive processing.
As mentioned above, the purpose of abrasive processing is to create the desired microrelief on a clean surface. Therefore, rust stains cannot be left behind: iron oxide particles will then become sources of cracking of the enamel. If the rust and dirt have become so ingrained that you have to remove the factory enamel down to the metal, it’s okay, as long as you don’t rub it through if the bathtub is tin.
First, remove the trim from the drain and overflow holes. Then, using an electric drill with Durex or a cord brush, smooth the surface until matte and free of visible dirt. We check the roughness “on the nail”: the nail on a properly treated surface should “stretch” and not slide. Additionally, we check in the sliding light of an LED flashlight: there should be no glare spots
Unlike previous operations, when dusting, degreasing and painting, climb into the bathtub and even touch it with your hands inner surface it is forbidden. The most difficult thing to do is when installing/dismantling the drain trim, so take a closer look in advance at how best you can work by bending over, using tweezers, pliers and duckbill pliers.
Before degreasing, collect dust with a vacuum cleaner; With a rag moistened with solvent, we wipe the areas around the drain holes “until a clean rag”, see above, and reinstall the drain trims.
Then, wearing gloves and an apron, pour 0.5 - 1 liter of Sanox or Adrilan into the bath (these are active acid-based detergents; Pemolux is alkaline) and rub it with a household sponge (new again) from the bottom to the edges in an even layer. The acid grout bath should sit for an hour and a half.
Only acid-based products are suitable for degreasing. Alkaline Pemolux and other powders are not suitable for the described method.
Next, we fill the bath to the brim and hold it for an hour and a half. The bath gets quite hot. If it warms up a little, add another half a bottle of acidic detergent. When the liquid in the bath has cooled noticeably, drain it. If there is no chain to the drain plug, for this you need to tie it in advance fishing line. After draining, we fill the bath again, let it sit for an hour and a half, then drain again, at least one more time. If time is of the essence (say, the family left for a week or two), we do the “after sour” washing 3-5 times.
After rinsing, dry the bath with a household hairdryer. You can’t delay drying because dust is falling from the ceiling. We check the absence of grease in the shower by temporarily screwing the hose to the mixer: the water should cover the surface in an even layer without dripping. We check the cleanliness with a rag with a solvent, as described above. If the bathtub is as clean as a rag and completely dry, we disassemble the drain trim again and you can paint.
Painting a bathtub with enamel begins with preparing the compound according to the instructions on the package. Enamels from different manufacturers differ in composition, so there is no universal recipe. If the instructions require preheating the base before adding the hardener, heat it in a water bath; We control the temperature by the temperature of the water in the bath.
Important: Don’t try to “thump” all the hardener into the base at once! Even if you manage to finish painting, you still won’t get a durable layer. Measure the base in 250 ml portions, and divide the hardener into portions accordingly, preferably in advance. If, say, 1.5 liters of base is used, then the hardener must be divided into 6 parts. After adding the hardener, mix each portion thoroughly.
Important: Do not forget to add 12-14 ml of dibutyl phthalate to each portion of the finished enamel and, again, mix thoroughly.
Paint with a flute brush. Wet the brush generously and apply vertical stripe from the bottom to the edge, then rub it as far as possible to the sides. We draw the next strip in such a way that the horizontal rubbing overlaps by 50%. Remove the bristles that have come out of the brush with a painting knife or tweezers. Under no circumstances should you touch the surface to be painted with your hands!
After applying the first (primer) layer, wait 15-20 minutes, again, according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and apply the second layer of enamel, STARTING FROM THE SAME PLACE AS THE FIRST AND IN THE SAME DIRECTION. With this method of painting, the covering layer will lie on the primer at the same stage of gelatinization, and the coating will be uniform in structure.
After finishing painting, lock the bathroom for 3-7 days. The longer the period of time from complete curing of the enamel to the first wash, the less likely it is to peel off in the future.
With both methods of painting, especially with epoxy enamel, drips and sagging are formed. Their formation should be controlled after 10-15 minutes for epoxy enamel and after 3-5 minutes for acrylic enamel. Drips are removed with a brush stroke UP until smeared. Sagging on the edges of the drain holes after hardening of the enamel is cut off with a painting or mounting knife. It may be necessary to install new cuffs or gaskets to install drain piping after restoration - after all, the drain holes will become narrower and the thickness of their walls will increase.
Painting a bathtub with acrylic is easier than with epoxy enamel. You can paint with either a brush or a roller. The best way- along a tapering elongated spiral from the edges to the drain. You just need to make sure there are no bubbles. If the bubble does not collapse within 1-2 minutes, it is pierced with a brush. If desired, you can apply a second layer after the first has hardened.
But, as stated above, portions of the acrylic compound must be mixed very thoroughly after adding the hardener. And keep in mind that dibutyl phthalate as a plasticizer is only suitable for epoxy. It cannot be added to acrylic.
For your information: acrylic compound for painting bathtubs goes on sale under the name “stakryl”.
Excellent for products that must bear the load in use.
The varnish formulation prevents destruction from UV exposure with powerful protection against graying and weathering. Super durable, self-leveling, quick-drying. It is possible to apply up to 3 layers. Does not turn yellow over time. No odor and quick cleaning instrument with soapy water.
Transparent glossy finish. P translucent milky liquid.
PE bottle 100 ml - 70 g.
At temperatures below 21º C, drying time increases. Consumption: per 1 m2 of complete cover - 0.0946 l. Shelf life: 5 years.
IMPORTANT!
It is considered proven and one of the most durable and UV-resistant among varnishes for polymer clay and epoxy resins.
Manufacturer: RUSTOLEUM.
ATTENTION!Polyurethane varnish freezes at low temperatures, since it water based. After frostbite (keep warm for 2-3 days) it restores properties; you need to shake thoroughly before use, as separation of the constituent components occurs.
INTERESTING! How to work with jewelry resin: grinding, polishing, varnishing. Today we will take the most unsuccessful casting from the jewelry transparent resin and show you how to correct the shortcomings when epoxy resin already frozen..... Watch the master class with video
