Modern balcony is no longer a storage room for storing unnecessary things that do not fit in the house - it is, rather, a full-fledged room, and its functional purpose may be different. Someone arranges here, someone - cozy place for relaxation, or even a full-fledged office. However, such a transformation requires repairs, which means you will need to waterproof the balcony yourself.
If you ignore the need for waterproofing, then very soon your wonderful renovation on the balcony will become unusable due to the accumulation of large quantity moisture. After all, even durable concrete floors cannot fully withstand precipitation and low temperatures. If you do not carry out waterproofing or carry out work in violation of technology, then the following troubles await you:
Important: Even on an open balcony, waterproofing can bring positive results. The roof and floor, seams and concrete lintels should be properly waterproofed, as well as the external cornice should be equipped. But it is better if the work is carried out on glassed balcony(double glazing).
Waterproofing is not only work to “improve” the floor and ceiling, but also carefully sealing seams and installing external cornices. However, all this work requires thorough surface preparation. Before waterproofing, all damaged areas must be removed and dismantled. decorative coating. The sequence of work is as follows:
Waterproofing a balcony with your own hands requires the use of appropriate materials. So, for concrete bases, penetrating compounds will be required, and for surfaces made of polyurethane, brick or stone, a coating mixture is used.
Important: Both the coating and penetrating compositions you choose must have a high degree of moisture resistance.
Each type of insulation has its own area of use, features and advantages. The following types of materials are distinguished:
Carrying out work on vertical balcony surfaces
If work is being carried out on waterproofing vertical balcony partitions, then foil polystyrene foam can be used - it is glued using the appropriate construction mixture with increased moisture and frost resistance. On top, this coating is already treated with a waterproofing compound (coating waterproofing). Before applying the solution the surface must be moistened, after which the first layer of waterproofing is applied using a brush (in one direction, thickness about 1 millimeter). After 5 hours, a second layer is applied, and it is placed perpendicular to the first. Average consumption mixtures for waterproofing vertical surfaces- 1.7 kilograms per square meter. meter.
You should also lay the joints between the tiles with reinforcing mesh (a mesh with cells of about 5 mm is good). The material is “recessed” into the waterproofing material and placed in such a way as to cover both sides of the seam by 8-10 centimeters.
Floor waterproofing rules
We waterproof the floor with painting materials
In order to properly waterproof the floor on a balcony or loggia, the surface should be thoroughly prepared. The floor is inspected for loose areas, they are removed, then the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust and moistened. Penetrating waterproofing is applied to the prepared and moistened surface. in two layers, and the second is applied only after the first has dried.
After this, you will need a foil vapor barrier that is rolled out over the floor surface. They lay it on top wooden beams, in between which polystyrene foam is placed. The joints and seams formed during work are carefully filled with polyurethane foam, after which you can begin laying the subfloor. OSB board is best suited for these purposes. And after fixing it with self-tapping screws, they begin to create the final coating.
We waterproof the balcony ceiling correctly
Before waterproofing the ceiling on the balcony, you need to determine where exactly water is leaking and drafts appear. Places largest accumulation it is advisable to treat moisture polyurethane based sealant. If large cracks are found on the surface of the ceiling, then use polyurethane foam and a polyethylene seal.
To waterproof the top slab, a penetrating compound is used - it penetrates deep into the surface of the slab and forms special durable waterproofing crystals in it.
Important: concrete surface After coating with a penetrating mixture, it is necessary to protect it from mechanical damage and sudden changes in temperature for 3 days. Rapid drying of the composition is also not allowed, so the surface is moistened with water.
After the penetrating waterproofing has dried, you can begin laying the polystyrene foam from the inside. To do this, you can use appropriate brackets and special construction adhesive.
We carry out work on the balcony with a bay window
If the balcony is located above a bay window, alcove, porch or other façade architectural element, then waterproofing will be required even more thoroughly. Thus, waterproofing a balcony above a bay window requires enhanced protection of surfaces from atmospheric influences- otherwise, leaks will form, which will require repairs to the interior.
Additional protective measures can be provided by installing a roof or glazing (partial or full) - thanks to this, the balcony above the bay window will turn into a comfortable loggia.
It is clear that all waterproofing work will be more effective if the balcony is glazed - this means not only the installation of high-quality double-glazed windows, but also sealing the seams and installing an external cornice. In addition, in this case, waterproofing will also prevent damage to the expensive finish. However, even on an open balcony, such events will significantly increase comfort.
And now we invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article on waterproofing balconies and loggias from the inside. You will see a demonstration of the work described above.
Reading time: 9 minutes.
A balcony is a fenced slab that is constantly exposed to precipitation. In winter, moisture trapped in the pores of concrete expands, causing microcracks to appear. If you do not take protective measures, then not only will the balcony slab quickly collapse, but also the things on the balcony will constantly deteriorate from dampness. Every balcony owner should know about the features and methods of waterproofing.
A water-repellent and waterproof additional layer on the floor, ceiling and balcony partitions creates reliable protection destructive moisture ingress.
Waterproofing is necessary regardless of the location of the balcony. For example, moisture gets onto the first floor balcony not only from the environment, but also from basement. But the balcony on the middle floor of the house is threatened by leaks from neighbors on the top floor.
Properly performed waterproofing increases the service life of the balcony without overhaul and also increases its comfort.
On the open balcony last floor The roof and ceiling must be waterproofed. If the balcony configuration is complex, liquid waterproofing is laid on the floor.
Before waterproofing wooden balcony all structural elements are treated with protective material, and equipped natural ventilation. Under the wooden floor there is a slope and a drain to the street.
When choosing an option for waterproofing a balcony, not only the condition of its surface is taken into account, but also the material from which it is made.
Simultaneous use on one balcony is allowed various options. The main waterproofing options are:
Quality depends on preparation waterproofing works and durability. Preparatory work are performed in a certain sequence:
It has long been established that waterproofing a glazed balcony is more reliable than an open one. That is why double-glazed windows are installed on the balcony before waterproofing work. Their tightness depends on the presence of an external cornice and on high-quality polyurethane foam.
Read also: Choosing a composition for processing lining on the balcony
The result of waterproofing equally depends on compliance with the work technology and on the correctly selected material. Conventionally, materials are combined into several types:
Mastics with bitumen are sold in finished form, so they are immediately ready for use.
Mastics with cement are purchased dry and then diluted with water according to the instructions. The resulting mixture retains its quality for no more than two hours, so it is prepared in small portions and immediately applied to the surface.
Depending on the materials used and the method of performing the work, they are used various technologies waterproofing the balcony floor. The most common technologies are:
A reliable, but expensive technology that permanently solves the problem of waterproofing the floor on the balcony. The moisture-repellent layer is created in two ways. If you follow the instructions, it is not difficult to complete the work yourself.
"Hot" option:
"Cold" option.
It differs from the “Hot version” in that the mastic does not heat up. The sequence of work remains the same:
Simple technology has made this method popular among balcony owners.
Its advantages include, firstly, it is not required special knowledge to apply the composition, secondly, the service life is up to 6 years, thirdly - affordable price. There is a drawback: bitumen quickly breaks down when negative temperature. This limits the use of materials on open balconies without special additives.
Coating materials are applied hot or cold using the following technology:
Technology associated with gluing several layers of sheet or roll material, is familiar to many. It is equally suitable for balconies made of concrete and wood. However, such technology Lately rarely used due to the following disadvantages:
Today, a balcony or loggia is not used as a storage room where various unnecessary things are stored. Every family tries. and that's not enough. If you do not waterproof the balcony from the inside, seal it and vapor barrier, you may incur considerable financial losses in the future. What these works are and how to perform them correctly you will learn from this article.
Waterproofing– protection building materials and structures from the destructive effects of water. The results of the lack of waterproofing coatings can be seen on the balconies of the upper floors, which do not have a roof and glazing, onto which water constantly flows from the roof. On closed balconies and loggias, moisture gets inside due to poorly performed sealing work.
Destruction of concrete is observed in the places where the balcony slab adjoins the façade slab; its edges are heavily crumbled and cracks and cavities are often visible on the plane.
What needs to be done to avoid similar situation? One of mandatory conditions– waterproof the balcony (loggia) with sealing of the seams.
You can use the services of specialists, but this is justified for external work on the upper floors. It is quite possible to waterproof a balcony from the inside with your own hands. It is necessary to pay attention to the sealing of all seams, regardless of their condition.
First, let's look at what waterproofing a balcony or loggia is.
The diagram below shows that when carrying out these works, waterproofing mastic creates a protective layer, and sealing of seams and restoration of damaged parts of the balcony slab is carried out using sealants.
Conditional diagram of waterproofing a balcony slab
Materials used in waterproofing work are divided into several types:
Let's consider step by step how to waterproof a balcony and loggia together with sealing.
Work begins with execution concrete screed. For an open balcony, it is necessary to make a screed with a slope of 2%. It is necessary for the free flow of water from the surface of the slab. The screed is reinforced with metal mesh.
When making a screed, three types of seams are required:
Subsequently, the seams are filled 50% with mastic for sealing, into which an elastic cord is pressed.
The screed is cleaned of dust and debris, and a primer is applied to it for better adhesion. One of the best is Primer WB.
Apply several layers of polyurethane mastic (for example Hyperdesmo RV) to the moistened concrete. The final thickness of insulation on the floor of a balcony or loggia must be at least 20 mm.
In addition to the floor, the waterproofing layer should extend up to 150-200 mm onto the walls.
Application polyurethane waterproofing on the floor of the balcony (loggia)
Waterproofing the loggia from the inside using polystyrene foam and vapor barrier film
After glazing a balcony or loggia during precipitation, we sometimes see an unpleasant picture - the balcony is leaking. This could happen if the ceiling and roof of the balcony (loggia) were not sealed and waterproofed.
If the balconies are poorly sealed, the joints of the windows leak, the roof leaks from above, and the floors flood. How to fix this defect?
From the inside, all work to eliminate leaks can be done independently. We seal all seams. We use polyurethane sealant Germoplast or Emfi. Before covering the defects, we use a grinder to cut out the seams and cracks, clean them of dust and moisten them with water. We also pay attention to dark spots on the ceiling - in these places there may be microcracks through which water also flows. We also cut them and seal them.
Sealing seams with polyurethane sealant
Next we will examine (the loggias). Often frames are installed with violations of technology. These defects will have to be corrected yourself. Otherwise, after sealing and waterproofing the ceiling, we will constantly observe how water flows through the cracks in the glazing.
When installing glazing, polyurethane foam is used. Under influence ultraviolet rays the foam collapses, water flows freely through these seams. It is necessary to partially remove the outer layer of foam and fill the formed groove with a hydro-swelling elastic cord. When exposed to moisture, the cord expands in volume and prevents water from leaking in this area.
Leaking at the bottom of the loggia frames due to poor sealing
We begin waterproofing the ceiling by cleaning the entire surface and treating it with an antiseptic (for example, Dali). Then we seal cracks and chips using the technology described above.
For the ceiling, it is better to use polyurethane mastic Elastomix or Elastopaz. They have good adhesion and applying it to a damp ceiling surface is not very difficult.
The ceiling is covered with mastic in two layers - the direction of the second is perpendicular to the first. Waterproofing layer reinforced with mesh after the first layer. To create a durable crystalline protective layer, it is necessary to allow the mastic to harden for 3 days.
When sheets of foil polystyrene foam are glued to the ceiling - it also acts as a vapor barrier. The seams between them are also sealed.
It is not always possible to completely seal and waterproof a loggia with your own hands. It's about about the upper floors - the roof of the loggia is leaking and external work is required. Who should fix the leak? You cannot do this kind of work yourself - it is very dangerous. What to do in this case? It is necessary to invite specialists.
How waterproofing and sealing work on balconies (loggias) is carried out can be seen in the video on the Internet.
Now we know that waterproofing protects the balcony (loggia) from premature destruction under the influence of water, and sealing eliminates any leakage, preventing moisture from reaching unprotected surfaces.
As you can see, you can do it yourself using modern materials, carry out sealing and waterproofing work on the loggia and balcony. Protect them from even small leaks and dampness.
Which can be used at any time for different purposes.
Waterproofing the floor on the balcony – effective method protecting the balcony slab from gradual destruction and damage to the environment. But he really needs protection, because even when glazed, he continues to actively contact environment, that is, it is saved real danger from negative impacts atmospheric moisture. It is produced in stages, and much will depend, in particular, on whether it is open or closed.
It is recommended to start arranging or repairing a balcony by protecting it from moisture, because any leak, even minor, can cause a lot of trouble and cause destruction building structures. This may not sound very convincing, but let it sit wet for a while and dry out. But let’s see what poor-quality waterproofing or its absence can lead to:
Waterproofing the floor on the balcony probably starts from the very important stage, preparatory: inspect the surface to identify problem areas, select the optimal waterproofing materials.
Protecting an open balcony from moisture begins with the formation of a sloped drain through which incoming water is discharged.
To ensure that rain and melt water does not stagnate, freeze and spoil the concrete or other floor, it must be ensured minimum slope to the outer edge.
The sloping layer placed on top of the slab has a height at the base of the wall that is approximately 2-3% greater than on the street side. In practice, the slope can be formed as follows: near the wall the layer is raised by 10 cm, and from the edge, respectively, by 4 cm.
Waterproofing is carried out on a stable floor base and in the presence of a pressure cement layer. To prevent crumbling and delamination of the screed, it is recommended to reinforce it lengthwise and crosswise. Typically reinforcement is performed using metal mesh 2x2.
There are other options.
A very important role in organizing the insulation of the floor on the balcony is assigned to waterproofing materials. The work is performed using roll, membrane, film or liquid materials.
Some materials require pre-treatment of joints and seams using penetrating materials, so it is advisable to carefully study the instructions from the manufacturer.
Using such a common option as laying rolled polymer-bitumen materials for floor waterproofing has certain disadvantages:
Mastics or polyurethane sealants are considered simpler, more convenient to install and more profitable to use.
Silicone-based sealants are not very effective in conditions of wind and vibration.
The material is mixed with water in the proportion that is usually indicated on the packaging, after which the solution is applied to the prepared moistened surface. All seams on the floor and connecting corners are taped and coated with a waterproofing compound. Having completely treated the entire floor surface with a thin layer of insulation, it is reinforced using fiberglass mesh with meshø 4 mm, pressing it into the insulating layer.
After waiting for the first layer to dry completely, apply the second layer using a spatula. The layer must be carefully leveled and smoothed.
Waterproofing is applied to the floor in several layers until the required thickness is achieved.
The height of the insulating layer should not be less than 20 mm if there is no room under the balcony, and not less than 4 mm otherwise.
It is recommended to carry out work in moderate hot weather, since rapid drying may cause cracks. Before completing the final floor covering, for example, tiles, the waterproofing layer must sit for 3–5 days.
To drain water from balconies in finished log houses, this option is often provided. When constructing a balcony, a solid sheet of iron is laid and branches are made from it for these purposes: - pipes with holes. Flooring laid with a gap of 5–10 mm. They are needed to allow the iron layer to ventilate and dry.
If nothing like this is provided, then the floor must be removed, especially if the balcony is not supposed to be glazed, and a concrete-bitumen screed must be laid on the lower part. Subsequently, after treating the screed with mastic, roofing material is glued onto it and the finishing coating is laid over it.
You need to know that a wooden balcony floor cannot be waterproofed without sealing underneath it.
Under the flooring you can install a slab impregnated with waterproofing material. It's not really eco-friendly option, but it can nevertheless be used for open structures.
It's pretty effective option waterproofing. The material is applied to the subfloor. Pre-made floor boards 
covered with mastics that have good adhesion to wooden base. For spraying liquid rubber special equipment is required, but this obstacle can be avoided if you use special forms into which the rubber mixture is poured. After hardening, membrane sheets are obtained.
Next, they can be laid on the subfloor with an overlap. For better insulation, the sheets are mounted in two rows and in a checkerboard pattern. All seams are spilled with a fresh solution of liquid rubber. The floor nailed on top additionally presses the rubber and compacts it.
First provides for the installation of waterproofing on the balcony along the screed, without a drainage mat, second with drainage.
Let's consider first circuit based on systems proposed by CERESIT and LITOKOL.
Balcony waterproofing scheme from Cerezite.
They have a lot in common. But there are minor differences:
There are no other differences. Excluding prices for all components of the waterproofing system and subsequent tiling.
Waterproofing scheme for open balconies from Litokol.
In such (first) system, the insulating layer may differ in the composition of the applied waterproofing. It could be:
Cement one-component waterproofing.
The basis of all mixtures of this type of insulation is cement. Water is used for preparation. The preparation technology is similar to any mixtures - dosing water, double mixing. The base must be strong and moisturized (there is no primer for concrete bases, and this is typical for many single-component insulations).
Covers cracks up to 1 mm (mostly 0.75 mm)
The documentation for the use of this type of insulation lists terraces, balconies, horizontal surfaces and swimming pools.
Cement two-component waterproofing
The second component in this insulation (elasticizer) is a polymer dispersion, a viscous milky-white liquid. It imparts high elasticity and bridges cracks with an opening of up to 2 mm. Compared to one-component ones, tensile elongation is up to 40%.
This group contains mixtures (BOTAMENT® MD 28) with good vapor permeability. They can be applied to fresh concrete base without waiting for complete hardening.
Ready-made insulating mastics.
This is a conventional group of insulating mastics, one-component, ready for use. Some of them, like MasterSeal, are based on a polymer acrylic dispersion. Among this group there are membranes for interior and exterior use. Some places of use are indicated with reservations - “cannot be used in swimming pools, underground, etc.”
This type of insulation is also called liquid polyurethane roofing membrane.
The mastic is based on a highly elastic polyurethane resin, which gives the product mechanical, thermal, chemical resistance, as well as resistance to UV radiation.
The list of possible uses of polyurethane mastic is impressive: “Waterproofing of green roofs, flower beds, flower boxes. Waterproofing old glassine and roofing felt. Waterproofing and protection of concrete buildings, tunnels, stadium stands, car parks.”
Outdoor polyurethane insulation.
If ceramic tiles are attached to the membrane, the last layer of insulation is sprinkled with coarse sand.
On smooth surfaces ( ceramic tile) Pu Primer must be applied.
Problem areas - connections between walls and floors, 90 degree angles, pipes must be reinforced with mesh or fiberglass NPG 210.
Reinforcement of problem areas with fiberglass.
Second system Waterproofing balconies involves installing drainage after the insulating layer.
Its idea is based on the assertion that water penetrates through the seams in the tiles and accumulates on the waterproofing. If it is not removed, then in winter the tiles and adhesive with the insulation layer are destroyed. And in the summer this leads to the appearance of efflorescence on the tiles.
To confirm that the tiles are not a barrier to the penetration of water into the screed, video:
If the leveling screed is laid on a drainage mat, then the water that has leaked through the seams will flow to the floor drain. This solution prevents moisture from accumulating and freezing under the tiles.
In this scheme, the waterproofing sheet is placed under the drainage mat. In this scheme, the options for installing a waterproofing sheet are expanded - bituminous materials, pool films……
Waterproofing on the balcony with drainage.
A similar system appeared for the first time in 1985. Supporters of laying drainage under the screed consider an additional advantage of this scheme to be that the elastic structure of the mat absorbs all deformations in the balcony structure. In their opinion, this prevents the appearance of cracks in the screed and seams. Such mats have long been used in the West when laying tiles on wooden floors.
An interesting solution (without a drainage membrane) is in the next video. It’s worth examining it in detail after watching:
What is the difference from the generally accepted approach:
Moisture that may get into the screed in the future will not break it when it freezes. This is the drainage that new technologies strive for, but is a less expensive option.
Thoughts out loud or what could be improved :
If you cover the screed with film for 6-7 days, the strength will be the same as good concrete. But, at the same time, unlike concrete, there will be no damage due to freezing. The structure of such a screed is similar to the structure of limestone (or shell rock - one of the varieties). Stone buildings and limestone sculptures that are 200 or more years old have still been preserved (this feature must be examined separately and in detail).
Despite the drainage properties of the screed, there is waterproofing on top - an additional safety net.
And one more interesting detail - the adhesive grooves are directed along the possible drainage of penetrated moisture. Perhaps this is a coincidence. But it's a good idea.
Naturally, there is a double coating of glue. If you adhere to the idea of glue grooves along the drain, then applying the mixture to the tile should be “scraped”.
Vulnerabilities remain:
There are similar ideas, but with additional (second) drainage system balcony insulation - laying paving slabs made of natural stone on a layer of coarse sand (almost screening out granite chips).
Also, an interesting design with drainage for balconies was recently proposed at a presentation by the MAPEI company.
The role of drainage is performed by glue grooves applied with large-format teeth. Lightly press the mesh into the fresh glue using a large trowel:
Drainage from adhesive grooves.
If water is poured onto such a structure, it will flow down drainage channels from glue to the drainage gutter. The tiles are laid on the second day, applying glue to the back side with a notched trowel and across the drainage channels:
Balcony waterproofing scheme from MAPEI.
In general, the durability of tile cladding on the floors of open balconies and terraces is a problem. Increasingly, solutions are emerging not to glue the tiles, but to lay them dry, on a layer of crushed stone:
Laying slabs on the balcony floor without glue.
... Or, like a constructor with drainage under the structure (video):
Below is a collection of videos (playlist) on waterproofing open balconies.
The playlist displays the best twenty foreign videos on waterproofing balconies and is constantly updated.
or to the second channel with my video.
