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» How to properly plant a new orchard of apple trees. Apple orchard: modern technologies. Where to order a project

How to properly plant a new orchard of apple trees. Apple orchard: modern technologies. Where to order a project

Homemade apple tree (lat. Malus domestica)- view fruit trees genus Apple tree of the Rosaceae family, widespread and grown in private gardens and on an industrial scale for its fruits. Both the apple tree and its apple fruit are associated with many legends, tales, fairy tales, songs and other works of oral folk art: the apple of discord, which indirectly caused the Trojan War; the apple of knowledge, because of which people were expelled from paradise to Earth; the apple that fell on Newton's head, resulting in the law universal gravity- these are the most sublime examples of the role the apple played in human history.

And if we think utilitarianly, then who doesn’t love the taste of a juicy crispy apple or aromatic apple jam, how many drinks and dishes can be made from apples! Apples are a storehouse of vitamins and other substances beneficial to the human body, therefore, despite the fact that apple trees have served us for thousands of years, they still grow in our gardens. In this article we will tell you how to grow an apple tree from a seedling, how to graft an apple tree, what diseases and pests of the apple tree lie in wait for it in case of violation of agrotechnical conditions, which variety of apple tree from the thousands of existing ones to choose for your plot, so that the flowering apple tree pleases the eye in the spring, and delicious apples have graced your table for many, many years.

Planting and caring for an apple tree

  • Landing: in spring, before the start of sap flow and in autumn.
  • Bloom: in May-June from 6 to 18 days.
  • Lighting: bright sunlight.
  • Soil: fertile, neutral reaction.
  • Watering: after planting, pour a bucket of water under each seedling weekly, then once every 2-3 weeks, in extreme heat and drought - 1-2 times a week.
  • Feeding: 1st - at the end of April with organic fertilizers, 2nd - before flowering, 3rd - during the fruiting period, 4th - in the fall.
  • Trimming: in spring, before sap flow begins, and in autumn, after leaf fall.
  • Reproduction: mainly vegetatively: cuttings, layering and grafting. Seed propagation of apple trees is rarely used in amateur gardening.
  • Pests: brown fruit mite, hawthorn circle moth, hawthorn; apple, rowan, fruit, fruit striped and topside fruit moth; apple flower beetle, pear sawfly and pipeweed, eastern and apple moths, oakleaf silkworm, sapwood, western gypsy bark beetle, winter moth; green apple, plantain, red gall and blood aphids; goose, ringed and gypsy moths, apple and common pear sucker, apple mite, leafminer moth; currant, fruit and subbark leafrollers; apple moth, blue-headed cutworm, apple moth, apple glass moth, moth, apple sawfly.
  • Diseases: proliferation of apple trees (witch's broom), bitter and fruit rot, mosaic disease, mosaic ringing, milky sheen, fly beetle, true mulberry, common cancer, rust, black cancer, dying branches, scab, subcutaneous viral spot, powdery mildew, rubbery, flattened branches, glassy fruits, cytosporosis, black spot.

Read more about growing apple trees below.

Apple tree - description

An apple tree is a tree with a spreading crown, reaching a height of two and a half to fifteen meters. The branches of the apple tree are of two types: fruiting - shortened, on which flower buds, and height – elongated. Wild species are equipped with spines. The leaves of the apple tree are bare or pubescent on the underside, petiolate. White, pale pink or crimson flowers, depending on the variety, collected in sparse corymbose or semi-umbrella-shaped inflorescences, bloom in April or May and bloom for about two weeks. Cross pollination of flowers. The fruit of the apple tree, the apple, is formed from the lower ovary.

Apple trees are long-lived - garden ones live up to one hundred years, and wild species - up to three hundred. Fruiting of an apple tree begins no earlier than the fourth year of life, but there are cases when an apple tree begins to bear fruit both in the year of planting and at 12 years of age. The productive period of the tree is 40-50 years. The apple tree is frost-resistant, can withstand temperatures down to -42 ºC, in addition, apple trees are excellent honey plants.

Apple tree planting

When to plant apple trees

You can plant an apple tree in both spring and autumn, and we will definitely tell you how spring planting differs from autumn planting, but first you need to choose a place where your apple tree will grow and bear fruit for almost half a century. It is better to plant apple trees in open places without strong drafts, away from buildings and other trees; it is especially undesirable for a young tree to be adjacent to old trees, the crowns of which will block the sun from the seedling, and the roots will take away nutrition.

The soil suitable for an apple tree is fertile, approximately the same in composition as for potatoes - not too acidic so that it does not have to be slaked with lime, and containing the nitrogen necessary for the growth and fruiting of the apple tree.

Now let's talk about seedlings. You need to buy apple tree seedlings immediately before planting, and it is better if they have open roots - you can immediately see what condition they are in root system. Planting material in a pot or containers is a mystery that it is better not to mess with: sometimes a seedling languishes in a pot for more than one season, the roots have filled the entire volume, intertwined and tangled, and it is not known what has started there in these roots. And sometimes a freshly dug up seedling with roots roughly chopped off with a shovel is stuffed into a container - how will it behave after transplanting?

No, it is better to buy seedlings with an open root system and dormant buds - you will immediately determine what form the roots are in, and the condition of the roots of the seedling is the main criterion when purchasing it. In dwarf apple trees, the root system looks like a sponge of small thin roots sticking out in all directions, while tall species have several powerful vertical roots. When cut, the roots should be white, any other shade is a sign of rotting or another disease.

Now pay attention to the ground part of the seedling: you should buy a one-year-old seedling with one twig-trunk height of one to two meters without side branches, or a two-year-old one with two or three skeletal branches, if we're talking about about a tall apple tree, or three to five if we are talking about a dwarf one. The purchased seedling must be prepared for planting: cut off broken or diseased roots, treat the wounds and cuts with crushed coal, straighten the root system. And we remind you once again: the buds on the seedling should not be swollen.

Planting an apple tree in autumn

The pit for the apple tree is prepared in advance. If planting is carried out in the spring, prepare a hole in the fall; if you plant a tree in the fall, then dig a hole at least a month before planting so that the soil in it has time to settle. Autumn planting is carried out after leaf fall - at this time the tree will actively grow roots, while the ground part will already be at rest. Your task is not to disturb the tree. Dig a hole measuring 50x50, determine the depth by the length of the roots of the seedling. Drive a tall stake into the middle of the hole so that it eventually rises about one and a half meters above the ground. Lower the straightened roots of the seedling into the hole and carefully fill it with fertile black soil so that the root collar of the seedling is flush with the surface.

Compact the soil and water it abundantly, tie the seedling to a support. If the soil that has absorbed water settles, add more soil. Do not put any fertilizers in the soil, as they may wake up dormant buds, which will lead to freezing of the seedlings on the eve of winter. With the onset of stable cold weather, it will be possible to scatter complex mineral fertilizers around the seedling at a distance of 60 cm from the trunk. When the snow begins to melt, the fertilizers will dissolve and, together with the melt water, will penetrate deep into the soil, where the roots of the apple tree can absorb them.

How to plant an apple tree in spring

Many gardeners prefer spring planting of apple trees. During spring planting, add a little to the bottom of the hole. nutrient soil, mixed with a half-liter jar of ash, then pour a bucket of water into the hole, mix it with the soil, dip the roots of the seedling into this mixer, straighten them and fill the hole with fertile soil almost to the very top. Then pour out another bucket of water, and when it is absorbed, add as much soil on top as needed to level the surface. The root collar of the tree should be at surface level. Add any complex fertilizer, for example, “Universal Ideal,” to the last portion of the soil.

Caring for an apple tree seedling in the first year of life

Apple tree care in spring

Growing apple trees is a long-term and responsible process. No matter what time of year you plant a tree, you need to start caring for it from its first spring, and we will tell you what measures are necessary to ensure that your seedling is guaranteed to turn into a strong, healthy tree, which in the future will cope with any problems on its own . Proper planting and care of an apple tree in its first year of life are very important, because the health and productivity of the tree for many years depends on them. After planting, shorten the trunk of the apple tree by two or three buds to stimulate the growth of side shoots.

If your seedling has already formed skeletal branches, check if they are longer than the central shoot, and if longer, shorten them. For the first five to six weeks after planting, pour a bucket of water under the seedling weekly unless it rains throughout the spring. Then the interval between watering is increased to two to three weeks, although in extreme heat you will have to water the apple tree twice a week. The amount of water poured under the apple tree at a time is increased to two or three buckets.

And be sure to mulch the tree trunk area with compost, vermicompost, chicken droppings or rotted manure, and on top of the layer of organic matter place a layer of dry grass or straw 5 cm thick. Under such cover, ideal conditions are created for the life of earthworms, which loosen and fertilize the soil to the depth at which the roots of the apple tree feed. This makes the soil light and fertile; in addition, mulch inhibits the growth of weeds, and you don’t have to endlessly wield a hoe.

If flowers appear on the seedling, pick them off this year and next year, since flowering depletes the weak strength of the young plant. In May, make two foliar feedings of the seedling with a solution of sodium humate or Effecton: dilute a tablespoon of the drug in ten liters of water and spray the leaves of the apple tree. One tree will require about two liters of solution.

Apple tree care in summer

When the watering rhythm has been established, you can switch to other things, since until autumn, caring for the seedling will consist only of regular watering and protection from pests. As preventive measure so as not to resort to using chemicals If a young tree is occupied by harmful insects, birds can be attracted to the garden. Place feeders and titbeds in the trees so that the birds know that food is waiting for them here. They will fly in and peck pests from your trees.

If for some reason pests do appear on the apple tree, there is no point in using toxic chemicals: while the tree is small and has few leaves, collect the pests with your hands and destroy them.

If it gets hot, you can water the tree by sprinkling. This should be done in the evening: in bright sun, a drop can cause burns.

In order to provide air access to the roots, make punctures in the soil 30-40 cm deep in several places around the apple tree at a distance of 60 cm from the trunk.

In June, you should do two more feedings of the young apple tree on the leaves with a solution of sodium humate or Effecton. In July, scatter a couple of glasses of ash in the tree trunk circle before the next watering.

Apple tree care in autumn

In autumn, trees are hilled to a height of 15-20 cm, the trunk circle is mulched with humus, peat or compost, and the trunks of young trees are whitened with a chalk solution. If rodents are rampant in your area in winter, for which apple tree bark is a delicacy, tie the trunks of young trees with spruce branches or reeds so that hares do not get to the bark. How to feed an apple tree before a long winter? In the first year of its life, the apple tree does not need autumn feeding - it only needs organic matter in the mulch.

Apple tree care

Apple tree processing

Removing pests from mature trees is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process, so preventive treatments have to be used garden trees and shrubs from diseases and pests. This should be done in early spring, before the start of sap flow, at an air temperature of at least 5 ºC: 700 g of urea is dissolved in ten liters of water and the trees are generously sprayed with this solution, as a result of which pests and pathogens that overwinter under the tree or in its bark die. Instead of urea, you can use a three percent solution of nitrafen, a five percent solution of iron or a three percent solution of copper sulfate.

However before processing the apple tree, make sure that her kidneys are not awakened, because if they are already swollen, the treatment may cause them to burn. The second preventive treatment against pests (aphids, mites and caterpillars) is carried out after flowering with a ten percent solution of karbofos, actellik or other insecticides. Trees are treated with copper-containing preparations against fungal diseases. The third, autumn preventive spraying of trees with a five percent urea solution is carried out after harvesting, but before leaf fall begins.

Fertilizing apple trees

Adult apple trees also need fertilizers, like young trees.

The first feeding of mature trees is done at the end of April: organic fertilizers For example, five to six buckets of humus and half a kilogram of urea are scattered around the tree trunk as mulch.

The second fertilizing is carried out before the apple trees bloom, and if it is hot, it is better to apply fertilizer in liquid form. For example: 800 g of potassium sulfate, a kilogram of superphosphate and a bottle of concentrated liquid fertilizer Effecton are added to a barrel of water with a volume of 200 liters. The solution is thoroughly mixed and infused for a week. Consumption – 40-50 liters per tree. The apple trees are first watered with water, and then liquid fertilizer is applied in a circle, departing 60 cm from the standard. After applying the fertilizer, it is necessary to water the apple trees again.

The third fertilizing is applied during the period of fruit filling. In a two-hundred-liter barrel, dilute 20 g of sodium humate and a kilogram of nitrophoska with water, stir thoroughly and water the pre-moistened soil, retreating the same 60 cm from the trunk. The solution consumption is three buckets for each tree.

The fourth feeding is carried out in the fall, when all the apples have already been collected. Since autumn is the rainy season, fertilizing is applied in dry form: 300 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are poured under each apple tree. If autumn is dry, it is better to dissolve fertilizers and apply them on wet soil.

In addition to root fertilizing, it makes sense to use foliar fertilizers for adult apple trees. A urea solution is used as a fertilizer (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). The urea solution moisturizes not only the leaves, but also the trunk and all skeletal branches of the tree. The first spraying is carried out before flowering, and two more after flowering, with an interval of 20 days. This fertilizer not only nourishes the apple tree, it destroys pests in the tree trunk, on the leaves and bark of the tree.

Good results provides foliar feeding with Kemira, since this complex preparation contains the microelements necessary for the apple tree: zinc, manganese, copper, boron, magnesium, molybdenum and others. Two feedings with an interval of two weeks during fruit filling are enough.

Wintering an apple tree

For the first five years, the trunks of young apple trees are whitened in the fall with a chalk solution and the trunks are tied with spruce branches or reeds, protecting them from hungry rodents. In older trees, trunks and skeletal branches are covered lime mortar, consisting of 10 liters of water, in which 3 kg of freshly slaked lime, a kilogram of clay, 500 g of copper sulfate and 100 g of heated wood glue are dissolved. If you are afraid that rodents may reach mature trees, tie their trunks with reeds or spruce branches.

Trees need to be protected until their bark becomes so rough that hares, mice and rats are no longer afraid of it. All trees are hilled to a height of 15-20 cm, and the trunk circles are mulched with manure, which in no case should come into contact with the tree trunk. During the winter, trample the snow or soil in the tree trunks more often.

Apple tree pruning

When to prune an apple tree

Caring for an apple tree involves the formation of a tree crown, work on which is carried out annually. Correct formation Apple trees stimulate earlier ripening of the tree for fruiting, large yields, long life and good winter hardiness. Tree pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. Apple trees are not pruned in the summer, because at this time the juice circulates inside the plant with maximum force. The first pruning of an apple tree seedling is carried out in early spring, before sap flow begins, a year after planting.

How to prune an apple tree

Young thin branches are trimmed with pruning shears; thicker ones have to be cut down. Pruning tools must be sharp, otherwise you risk tearing the bark and wood, and the wound will take longer to heal. Sections of branches are treated with garden varnish, having previously been disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate and lime in a ratio of 1:10, but you should know that an old, dry apple tree branch is treated with varnish immediately, and a young one - only after a day.

After you have shortened the main shoot during planting, the young apple tree is not pruned for two or three years; only dry and broken shoots are removed. Then, when the apple tree has acquired a sufficient number of branches, they are shortened by an average of two-thirds of the length, while the buds on the remaining branches should not look deep into the crown. Leave those branches whose buds are on the outside, remove the rest so that they do not thicken the crown.

Pruning an apple tree in spring

In the spring, the gardener’s task is to prepare the trees for the growing season. An apple tree in the spring needs sanitary and formative pruning: it is necessary to thin out the crown in order to saturate it with sunlight and air, trim off the ends of branches frozen during the winter, and remove diseased and broken shoots. In addition, spring pruning is good because at this time all wounds on the tree heal faster.

Remove branches growing inside the crown, as well as shoots running parallel to the growing branch. Branches that are touching or intertwined should be pruned, and if you need to choose between them, preference is given to the younger one. All knots located on the trunk or at the base of branches, as well as broken or cracked branches must be removed.

The crown of the apple tree is formed before the age of five, and if you did everything correctly, then by this time half of the branches on the tree will be mature and ready to begin bearing fruit. A five-year-old apple tree with a properly formed crown no longer needs supports.

Pruning an apple tree in autumn

The apple tree in August is still full of circulating sap, but in September, October and November it can already be pruned if severe frosts are not predicted in the near future. Autumn pruning of young apple trees involves slightly shortening the shoots that have grown over the summer. To stimulate active fruiting, trees older than five years are given middle trim, shortening strong shoots by a third of their length.

If annual growth is weak, severe pruning is needed. Strong growth is an increase in the length of branches per season to 70-100 cm, average growth - up to 30-70 cm, weak growth - less than 30 cm. Pruning an apple tree in the fall also involves removing all dry, too weak, broken shoots growing inside the crown, as well as those that extend from a skeletal branch or from the trunk at an acute angle.

If you need to remove the entire branch, cut it first to the first bud from the trunk, and then use a fine-toothed saw to saw off the remaining stump from the base towards the top - not vice versa, and treat the resulting cut with garden varnish. Try to choose a dry, windless, cloudy day for pruning, or even better, contact lunar calendar, which will tell you which day is favorable for a particular species gardening work.

Apple tree propagation

How to propagate an apple tree

Apple trees are propagated in a variety of ways. For example, seed. True, this is not done by amateur gardeners, but by professional breeders in nurseries growing new varieties. In amateur gardening, vegetative propagation methods are used - cuttings, propagation by layering, and grafting.

Apple tree propagation by cuttings

Seedlings from root cuttings are grown mainly for use as a rootstock, but from them it is also possible to obtain own-rooted seedlings of varietal trees, provided that the mother plant is also own-rooted, otherwise the derived specimen will receive characteristics not of the varietal scion, but of the plant used as a rootstock.

Harvesting roots for cuttings is carried out in the spring, before the buds swell, or at the end of the growing season. Segments 18-20 cm long, cut in the spring from root cuttings, are planted in furrows at a distance of 30 cm from each other, deepening the cut by 2-3 cm, and the area is mulched with a five-centimeter layer of humus. The row spacing is about a meter. The cuttings are watered regularly. Until autumn, strong seedlings grow from them and are ready for transplanting to a permanent place.

Apple tree propagation by layering

This is the most effective way to propagate an apple tree. Since it is impossible to bury a branch of an adult tree, the rooting of the cuttings occurs in the air. So:

  • powerful branches with strong growth are selected on the tree;
  • ten centimeters from the top, remove a ring strip of bark three centimeters wide or make several oblique circular cuts;
  • the injured area is treated with a powder growth regulator, for example, root;
  • to maintain moisture, the injury site is wrapped in moss, which is covered with polyethylene for tightness and secured above and below the wrapped area;
  • Over the summer, roots form from the cambium; in the fall, the cuttings are separated from the branch with pruning shears and transplanted into a trench. The seedling is covered for the winter.

Apple tree grafting

Apple trees can be propagated by budding - grafting the eye of a cultivated apple tree onto the root of a wild apple tree. A T-shaped cut is made on the rootstock just above the root collar with a sharp knife, and the edges of the cut bark are carefully turned away, exposing the wood. A bud cut from a varietal cutting with the surrounding bark, a petiole about one and a half centimeters long and a thin layer of wood is inserted into the cut under the bark. The bent bark of the cut is pressed against the bud and the grafting site is tightly wrapped with a damp cloth or washcloth so that the bud itself with a piece of petiole remains open. After two weeks, check whether the eye has taken root well: if budding is successful, the eye will be green and fresh.

The best time for grafting is autumn - about 80% of the eyes successfully take root, while the results of vaccinations carried out in the spring are much more modest - only 10% survival rate. Budding is carried out in the morning or evening on a calm, clear day.

Apple tree diseases

The diseases of the apple tree in the garden are the same as those of the pear, although if the disease affects one of these trees, and you have no time, and you put off treating the apple tree until later, over time the quince may get sick, and then the disease will spread to other fruit trees trees such as plum, cherry. If you properly care for your garden and comply with all agrotechnical requirements on time, then almost certainly nothing threatens the health of your trees, but if the disease does occur, it is better to know what kind of disease you are dealing with and how to deal with it faster.

So, apple tree diseases that you may encounter: apple tree proliferation (witch's broom), bitter and fruit rot, milky shine, mosaic disease, mosaic ringing, fly blight, powdery mildew, true mulberry, common canker, black canker, branch dieback, scab , subcutaneous viral spot, rubbery, rust, flattened branches, glassy fruit, cytosporosis, black spot.

Each disease has its own symptoms: one affects the leaves of the apple tree, and they turn yellow and fall off, the other destroys the bark and wood, causing the apple tree to dry out and die. Sometimes, due to some disease, a fruit-bearing apple tree suddenly drops unripe fruits. Most of the diseases are fungal in nature; in the early stages, these diseases are successfully treated with fungicides (Karbofos, Bordeaux mixture, Nitrafen).

Unfortunately, there are no drugs against viral diseases; it is also difficult to treat trees infected with mycoplasma-like organisms. And in any case, it is easier to avoid infection than to try to get rid of the disease later. Good results in preventing diseases are obtained by preventive treatment of fruit trees, which we wrote about in the corresponding section.

We will tell you in detail about the symptoms of diseases and ways to get rid of them in a separate article.

Apple tree pests

The apple tree has no less enemies among insects than diseases, so the topic of apple tree pests will be included in a separate article, but now we invite you to get to know in general terms the insects that affect not only the apple tree, but also other fruit trees.

So, pests of apple trees include hawthorn moth, brown fruit mite, hawthorn; apple, rowan, fruit, fruit striped and top-sided fruit moths; apple flower beetle, eastern and codling moths, pear sawfly and tubeweed, oakleaf silkworm, sapwood, western gypsy bark beetle, winter moth; green apple, plantain, red gall and blood aphids; goose, ringed and gypsy moths, apple mites, leafminer moths, apple and pear worms; currant, fruit and subbark leafrollers; apple moth, peeled moth, cutworm, apple moth, apple glass beetle, apple sawfly.

This army of pests is ready to attack your apple tree as soon as you let your guard down and begin to neglect care measures. A garden requires patience and work, as well as strict and systematic compliance with agrotechnical requirements, one of which is regular preventive treatment of trees against pests. If the rules for caring for fruit trees are followed scrupulously, insect pests will not have the slightest chance of getting a good home in your garden.

Apple tree varieties

There are a great many varieties of domestic apple trees - according to various sources, from twenty-five to thirty-five thousand, but the work of breeders on developing new varieties continues. For those who want to grow an apple tree in their garden and do not know which variety to prefer, we offer a brief classification of varieties, among which you will choose the best one for yourself, because the best apple tree is the one that grows and bears fruit in your garden for decades, delighting you, your children and grandchildren with their fruits.

Depending on the timing of consumption, apple tree varieties are divided into summer, autumn and winter. Summer ones, in turn, are divided into early summer and summer proper, autumn ones into early autumn, autumn and late autumn, winter ones into early winter, winter and late winter. Summer varieties ripen early, but cannot be stored. Winter varieties can be stored in proper conditions until next spring. It is interesting that the same variety, depending on the area in which it is grown, can be winter if it grows, for example, in the Moscow region, and summer if grown in the Crimea.

Ideally, the varieties of apple trees growing in your garden should be selected in such a way that the site contains one of the early ripening summer varieties, one of the autumn and one of the winter varieties of apple trees. It is necessary to select varieties in such a way that they mutually pollinate each other. For example, a winter variety of apple tree planted next to an autumn variety apple tree will cross-pollinate, since the flowering periods of these varieties overlap each other. But the summer and winter varieties bloom in different times and cross-pollination between them is problematic.

When choosing a variety, you should also take into account that the apple tree is a large tree, and if you do not have a spacious area, you need to choose a seedling from those varieties that do not take up much space, for example, columnar or dwarf bush-like ones.

Columnar apple trees

Apple trees of these varieties of Moscow selection do not have lateral branches; they grow vertically upward into one trunk, reaching a height of 2.5-3 m and densely overgrown with fruit formations along the trunk - twigs, ringlets, spears. The main advantage of these varieties is that they begin to bear fruit very early - in some cases even in the year of planting, although more often abundant fruiting begins in the second or third year.

In addition, a tree without branches and twigs is much more comfortable to care for - due to the lack of a large crown, pruning these apple trees is completely easy, as is pest control, foliar feeding and harvesting. The disadvantage of these varieties is isolated cases of poor fruiting or its complete absence, although the cause of all examples was unsatisfactory tree care.

Among the early summer varieties of columnar apple trees, Dialog and Vasyugan have proven themselves well. Among the autumn varieties, the most famous are Medok, Malyukha and President, and the winter ones are represented by the varieties Valyuta and Moscow Ozherelye.

Dwarf apple trees

Dwarf apple trees are called apple trees grafted onto a dwarf rootstock. Countries that grow apples on an industrial scale have long abandoned vigorous apple trees with a spreading crown that take up too much space. Advantage dwarf varieties in their compactness and, accordingly, in a greater number of fruits collected per unit area.

Unlike vigorous varieties, which take five to seven years to reach maturity, dwarf apple trees begin bearing full fruit two years after planting. Low trees are much easier to care for, it is easier to harvest from them, in addition, the root system of dwarf apple trees allows them to be grown even in places with high groundwater levels. True, the period of active fruiting for dwarf apple trees is slightly shorter - only 20-30 years versus 35-40 years for tall varieties, but based on the number of apple trees per unit area of ​​the garden, dwarfs produce much more fruit during their lives than their tall competitors.

Among the most summer varieties, the Letneye Polosatoe, Grushovka Moskovskaya, and Mantet varieties have gained popularity; among the autumn varieties, Orlovskoe Polosatoe, Uralskoe Nalivnoe, and Spartak. Of the winter varieties, the best varieties of dwarf apple trees are Orenburg Krasnoye and Kutuzovets.

Apple tree varieties for the Moscow region

Grow an apple tree in a warm area with mild winter not that hard. But what about gardeners living in the middle zone? What varieties of apple trees can withstand the cold Moscow region winters without painful consequences? In this matter, as I.V. rightly noted. Michurin, the variety decides the success of the business. So, what varieties can be grown in the climatic conditions of the Moscow region?

From summer varieties winter-hardy Candy, high-yielding Lungwort, Canadian varieties dwarf Mantet and Melba apple tree are suitable.

Autumn varieties: Autumn Striped, Cinnamon Striped, Cinnamon New, Zhigulevskoe.

Winter varieties: Antonovka Ordinary, Bogatyr, Zvezdochka, Pepin Saffron, Moscow Winter, Student.

Early varieties of apple trees

Early varieties of apple trees include early summer and summer varieties, the most popular of which are:

  • Padding- a medium-height tree with a round-oval crown. Fruiting occurs in 4-5 years, pale yellow, sweet and sour fruits ripen in mid-August, apples have a shelf life of up to two weeks. The variety is of average winter hardiness, resistant to diseases and pests;
  • Melba- a tree of medium height with a broad oval crown, fruiting occurs annually at the end of August, starting from the fifth or sixth year of life. The apples are medium-sized, round-conical, greenish-white with an extensive red blush, and have a sweet and sour taste. Winter hardiness is average, the variety is easily damaged by scab;
  • White Pouring- a medium-tall tree with a pyramidal crown in young apple trees and a rounded crown in adults, which begins to bear fruit annually in the second or third year if grafted on a dwarf rootstock. The color of the fruit is greenish-yellow, the taste is sweet and sour. The variety is of average winter hardiness and is easily affected by scab.

In addition to those described, the varieties Borovinka, Grushovka Moskovskaya, Kitayka Zolotaya, Bellefleur-Kitaika, Candy, Mechta, Super Prekos, Mironchik, Early Sweet and others are also popular in cultivation.

Medium varieties of apple trees

These include early autumn, autumn and late autumn varieties, the most famous of which are:

  • Anise White- a tall apple tree with a wide pyramidal crown, which begins to bear fruit 6-7 years after planting, but fruiting does not occur every year. The maturity of sweet and sour, green fruits with a cherry blush, covered with a waxy coating, occurs in early autumn. Apples are stored until the beginning of winter. The variety is cold-resistant and drought-resistant, but is affected by black cancer;
  • Cinnamon New- a tall tree with a dense rounded crown, fruiting occurs in 5-7 years, but harvests are irregular. Greenish-yellow apples with a striped blush ripen in early September and are stored until January. The variety is winter-hardy and resistant to scab;
  • Saffron Saratov- a medium-height apple tree with a wide-pyramidal or rounded crown, fruiting begins in the fifth or sixth year. The yellow-green, red-striped apples ripen in mid-September. The variety is resistant to scab and powdery mildew, and winter-hardy.

Varieties such as Uralskoe Nalivnoe, Uralets, Sentyabrskoe, Tambovskoe, Rizhsky Golubok, Osennee Polosatoe, Krasa Sverdlovskaya, Orlovskaya Garlyanda, Cinnamon Striped, Zhigulevskoe, Baltika, Bessemyanka, Michurinskaya, Anis Sverdlovsky and Anis Striped are also known.

Late varieties of apple trees

Late varieties of apple trees include early winter, winter and late winter varieties, for example:

  • Start– a medium-height apple tree with a rounded crown, resistant to scab, winter-hardy. Ripens in mid-September. Oblong, green apples with red stripes and specks are stored until mid-February;
  • Moscow Winter– a vigorous variety with a dense, spreading, rounded crown. The light green fruits with vague purple streaks ripen at the end of September and are stored until April. The variety is winter-hardy, resistant to scab;
  • Lobo– a medium-height tree with a sparse rounded crown, a variety with high and stable productivity. Large yellow-green apples with a raspberry blush have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is characterized by average winter hardiness and weak resistance to scab and powdery mildew.

Winter varieties also include apple trees of the varieties Martovskoe, Vityaz, Antonovka Obyknovennaya, Aport, Bezhin Lug, Bogatyr, Bratchud, Veteran, Cherry, Zvezdochka, Imrus, Amazing, Dwarf, Kutuzovets, Moskovskoe Krasnoe, Moskovskoe Late, Orlik, Olimpiyskoe, Freshness, Pepin Orlovsky, Northern Sinap and many other wonderful varieties.

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1 Business plan for an apple orchard We offer individual development of business plans One of the main tasks of a business plan is to build a chain of actions and calculate risks, but it is also worth noting a number of other advantages. Firstly, it will help you understand the prospects of the direction, figure out where to start, save you from many mistakes, and save hundreds of hours of time. Our advantage is that we offer not just a business plan, but an entire infrastructure with the opening and registration of a company, accounting services, assistance from highly qualified lawyers, and many other services, without which a business turns into a lottery. Tel: +7 (495)

2 Contents: 1. Varieties of apples 2. Organization of an apple orchard 3. Collection and storage of apples 4. Costly and profitable parts of a business plan Project summary It would seem, what is the point of doing business on a fruit that already grows in everyone’s garden? But it turns out that there is a shortage of clean, environmentally friendly apples grown using all technologies on the market. The apple business is convenient because there are many different varieties of this fruit. Its cultivation can be organized in almost any area of ​​the country. Therefore, the first point of a business plan for such a business should be the choice of a suitable variety of apples. 2

3 Varieties of Apples Most productive varieties apples are: Antonovka vulgaris; Sary-Sinap; Renet champagne; Butskoe; Zelenyak; Calville snowy; Renet Simirenko; Winter golden parmen. From the first four you can collect up to 500 kg of apples from a tree, from the rest up to 300 kg. Are slightly less fertile popular varieties“Renet Kursk gold”, “Astrakhan red”. The apple business is convenient due to the variety of apples. They can be of various shapes, colors of all possible shades of red, yellow, green. Weight and size also vary depending on the variety from 70 g to 400. Not to mention the aroma and taste characteristics from sour to sweet. Moreover, some varieties begin to bear fruit after the first year of planting. The most productive apple orchard will be made from the varieties “Renet champagne”, “Zelenyak”, “Antonovka ordinary”. “Renet Kursk Gold” and “Astrakhan Red” have average yields. Which apple variety to choose for growing largely depends on the market. Apples are used to make baked goods, preserves, jams, wine, cider, and vinegar. They are used everywhere in cosmetology and medicine. Not to mention that they can be sold fresh or dried in markets, shops, and supermarkets simply for food. Organizing an apple orchard Growing an apple orchard will require a land plot of at least 1-2 hectares. Of course, it is desirable that it be located in an ecologically clean area. They will fit near trees. Seedlings are planted in rows at a distance of approximately 3 meters from each other. The best time to start a garden is autumn. In order for the garden to begin to bear fruit sufficiently and bring the business to break even, it is necessary to take care of it for at least three years. The health, fertility of each tree, the quality of the harvest, and therefore the success of your business depend on proper planting. Plan for proper tree planting: Plow the area. Dig holes taking into account the required distance. The holes should be the diameter of the roots of the seedlings. Fill the holes with water. Trim the roots of the seedling slightly and place them in the hole so that the soil covers them completely. First fill the hole with dry soil, then with soil from the hole, forming a place for watering. Water the apple trees. 3

4 The next three years must be devoted to growing the garden. There are several technologies: growing annuals and branched annuals, two-year olds and modified two-year olds, knip baum and modified knip baum. The easiest way is to deal with yearlings. It is enough for them to vaccinate in winter or autumn at a height of 5-15 cm and in spring or autumn feeding. Nitrogen fertilizers are used as garden feeding. Two-year-old apple seedlings are in greatest demand. To get them, you need to cut off the branches that are below 50 cm and the upper shoots, leaving only one central one. Fertilizing is carried out with the same fertilizers during the same period. The Knip Baum technology involves first growing ordinary unbranched annuals. Then it is cut at a height of about half a meter, and a branched seedling is grown from the top bud. When the central branch extends 20 cm, it must be treated with a growth regulator and pinned. Feeding is carried out in a similar way. Growing using this technology provides advantages in yield. Thanks to the branched crown, you can remove up to 3 kg of apples from the tree in the first year, and up to 6 kg in the second. And after 5 years, such gardens can produce up to 350 centners per hectare. It is during this period that the maximum productivity of the planted garden falls. Of course, for this plan to work, it must additionally be provided with proper irrigation, fertilizer, sunlight and proper pruning. Collection and storage of apples In order for apples to bring the planned income, they must be collected and stored correctly. The time for harvesting usually falls in September, when the seed inside the fruit turns brown and the skin acquires the color characteristic of the variety. Moreover, in winter and autumn varieties of apples, a distinction is made between removable and consumer maturity. When the time comes to collect them, they are still unfit for consumption. To do this, they need to ripen in storage. Apples are picked directly from the trees in cool weather, and only by hand. There should be no damage to them and the stalk should be preserved. It is also necessary to transfer from one container to another without pouring. Fruits that fall to the ground quickly darken in the “clogged” place and begin to deteriorate. They should be collected separately and can be used for drying, making jam, etc. Apples are collected and stored in boxes, preferably wooden. The fruits are stacked in layers, each layer is separated from the previous one by a sheet of paper. It also serves as a support for the fruit, and it is also used to cover the apples on top. But many people do not put paper on apples; this is not always justified. It is not necessary to purchase special equipment for storage. You can keep the harvest in the basement. It is important to ensure that the temperature in it is maintained at approximately 0-2 degrees. Autumn and winter varieties are well preserved; they can be stored fresh until April. 4

5 Costly and profitable parts of the business plan The cost plan is based on the fact that an average of 250 trees can be planted on 100 acres of land (one hectare). If you plant two-year-old seedlings, then next year you can get a harvest of about 8 kg of fruit from one tree. In subsequent years, the yield will increase to approximately 10 kg. On average, the price of one seedling is 800 rubles. That is, the business plan must provide for 200 thousand rubles. for the purchase of seedlings. Growing an apple orchard requires constant fertilization of the soil. For this, potassium fertilizers and superphosphate are used. The plan for calculating their cost is based on a cost of 30 rubles. per one tree. In total, for 250 trees it is necessary to allocate 7.5 thousand rubles. for fertilizers. But you will need to fertilize not only the soil directly around the trees, but also the rest of the area. This is at least 4 thousand rubles. every month. In total, to start a business you will need at least 212 thousand rubles. and another 4 thousand monthly. Also, the expenditure plan should include salaries for harvesters and logistics costs. As for the income part, in the first year, after removing 8 kg of fruit from each apple tree, you will receive 2 thousand kg of harvest. On average, a kilogram of apples costs 30 rubles. That is, from 2 tons you can earn 60 thousand rubles. for the first year. In the future, income will increase to 75 thousand rubles. per year. You can increase your income by organizing the drying of non-marketable apples. Drying goes well in winter and spring. 5


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Start your fruit growing business by registering a horticultural non-profit partnership (SNT). Documents are submitted to the tax service. Registration takes about 8 days. Payment of state duty is required.

The fruits you grow must comply with the following GOSTs:

  1. - general technical specifications for dried fruits.
  2. - fresh apples sold in retail stores. Technical conditions.

New landing technology

For the most part, the outcome of the apple business depends on geography and the type of trees grown. But gardening improves every year. New technologies open up great opportunities and significantly reduce growing time. Follow our recommendations and get the following result:

  • after 1 year – 15 tons/ha;
  • after 4 years – 35 tons/ha;
  • after 6 years – 50 tons/ha.

The success of these technologies depends on planting tall varieties on dwarf rootstocks with a high planting density of apple trees and proper pruning of crowns. Tall varieties include:

  • Golden Delicious;
  • Red Delicious;
  • Jonared;
  • Simorenko;
  • Idored;
  • Starking;
  • Royal Delicious;
  • Stayman.

You can choose the appropriate variety for your area yourself. The necessary information can be found on the Internet.

The business plan for an apple orchard covers an area of ​​1 hectare. Trees are planted at 2,000 - 5,000 apple trees per 1 hectare. Use the most popular dwarf rootstock, M9. This is an international standard. Grafting apple trees onto M9 will shorten the fruiting period to 1 year. The only drawback is that the roots are in upper layers land. Therefore, frost resistance is only -11°C. To adapt to low temperatures, cover tree roots with soil.

How farmer Valery Zhomer gardens

Necessary equipment

Nowadays, it is expensive for a start-up entrepreneur to buy equipment. Alternative option is the purchase of equipment in or, which you will pay with your first income. You can read more detailed information about gardening equipment. To improve your earnings from growing apples, we recommend purchasing the following equipment:

  1. Car/van/tractor with trailer - for transporting fruits;
  2. Chainsaw or electric saw - for cutting dead trees;
  3. Branch cutters - for removing broken and diseased branches;
  4. Install the system automatic watering trees - this will free up your time for other important things.

Preparing for landing

First of all, make a plan for the proper planting of apple trees. Not only the health and quality of the fruit, but also your reputation depends on this. To do this:

  • plow the area;
  • when planting, take into account the distance of the hole, which is compared with the diameter of the root of the seedling;
  • Fill the dug holes with water;
  • place the cut roots of the seedlings so that they are covered with soil;
  • prepare the necessary soil by creating a place for watering;
  • water the trees.

Prepare the soil for the garden in the fall, and carry out the planting itself in the spring. Trees should not shade each other. Therefore, think about planting your garden. Better yet, contact a specialist. The planting scheme for an apple orchard depends on the type of crown pruning:

Prepare holes for seedlings:

Hole: lower 25 kg of peat-distillation mixture and 40 g of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the bottom.

Garden care

An apple orchard as a business must take into account the ongoing maintenance of the orchard. First, buy it. Keep the soil around the trunk free of weeds. Do not till the soil mechanically with a garden tiller. Cover with dry conifer needles, bark chips, and treat with herbicides. Processing is done in the absence of wind. Simazin, Curb, Roundup, Glyphosate, Fosulen and other popular types of herbicides are suitable for this.

Treat trees against insects. Use different types of insecticides, for example, Benzophosphate, Oleocuprite. If you don't do this harmful insects will significantly reduce your harvest or completely destroy it.

Seedling pruning: leave 6 buds from the height of the stamp (from 80 cm).

Mow the grass between the rows. If you use a mower that will chop up grass, use the grass as a cover for the soil. Remove unchopped grass.

Be sure to provide trees with supports. For example, concrete pillars (height 1 - 2 m), buried in the ground at a distance of 25 meters with taut wire. Or use pine stakes (height 2-3 m). But first treat them with an antiseptic. Thanks to the supports, the tree will grow in a vertical position, and the branches with apples will not break.

Some facts:

  • the garden bears fruit for several decades;
  • The lifespan of an apple tree is approximately 50 years;
  • The peak of the highest yield falls on the 10-15th year of life with a further decrease in fruiting.

Harvest and storage

To receive the expected income, the crop must be properly harvested and stored. Fruit harvesting usually occurs in September. A characteristic indicator is the acquisition of a characteristic color by the peel and the ripening of the seed, which becomes brown.

Winter and autumn varieties are distinguished between removable and consumer maturity. In order for the product to be suitable for consumption, it is placed in storage for further maturation.

Requirements for collecting fruits:

  • collection is carried out manually in cool weather;
  • it is necessary to preserve the stalk;
  • there should be no damage on the surface;
  • the product cannot be poured, only shifted;
  • fruits that have fallen to the ground are collected in a separate container;
  • It is recommended to put apples in wooden boxes;
  • fold the fruit in layers, separating it from the previous one with a sheet of paper, and also cover it with a sheet on top;

You don't need special equipment to store apples. Basement will be a good place for storage. Monitor the temperature, keeping it between 0-2°C. You can keep it looking fresh until April by harvesting fall and winter varieties.

Selling apples

Growing apples as a business provides several optimal options for marketing products:

  • for small quantities of apples: sale in city markets, wholesale sales to traders, supply of apples to places where baked goods are made;
  • with large quantities of apples: sales of goods to large supermarkets, supply of apples to manufacturers of wine, cider, jams, compotes, marmalade, vinegar.

Orient the planting according to the varieties of apples you buy. This fruit is highly valued among wholesalers and ordinary buyers. If the territory and funds allow, build a warehouse for storage. When selling apples in winter, profits increase by 50%.

An apple growing business is a win-win, home-based income option. Even if you have not fully sold your product, you can additionally open it, which will not only save your product, but also increase your profit.

Apple orchard in numbers

The use of intensive technologies for growing an apple orchard will raise your business to industrial heights in just 3 to 4 years.

Stable profits are guaranteed every year.

Cost of seedlings– from 180 rub./piece.

Costs for arranging a garden:

Cost itemCost (RUB)
SNT registration12 000
Seedlings360 000 - 900 000
Garden design3 000
Soil preparation3 700
Planting seedlings300 000
Organization of watering4 000
Installation of supports320 000
Special equipment3 080 000
Total4 082 700 - 4 622 700

Monthly costs:

Hire garden security only during the fruit ripening season. Seasonal workers are needed for harvesting. The rest of the time the number of employees should be minimal. Perhaps you can get by on your own or turn apple growing into a family business.

Payback business on apples – 3 – 4 years.

Profitability reaches 100%.

During the season, apples sell for 50 rubles. for 1 kg.

During the winter season, this price increases 3-4 times.

Spoiled fruits can be sold for industrial processing at a price of 20 rubles. for 1 kg.

In the first year profit from the harvest will be from 750,000 rub.. From each tree you will get about 8 kg of harvest. Every year the amount of harvest will increase.

Risks

Before starting a business, you need to analyze everything possible risks. This business has the following risks and ways to prevent them:

  • crop failure - calculate your own costs for crop insurance;
  • loss of liquidity due to uneven sales - when attracting a loan, return funds in seasonal payments with the possibility of deferment and long-term loan repayment;
  • reduction in product prices - agree in advance on the supply of products;
  • untimely implementation of technological operations due to inexperience - strict execution of the planned plan for cultivation technology.

Timely analysis and identification of risks will help you avoid possible errors and financial losses.

Additional income


You can also get a stable income from a new and profitable business for the production and cultivation of caramelized apples. To do this you will need:

  • caramelizer;
  • caramel mixture, water, sugar;
  • nozzle sticks;
  • toppings (chocolate, nuts, powder, sesame seeds, sugar powder);
  • apples.

Apple - 7 rub.

Caramel - 3 rub.

Other expenses - 3 rubles.

Net profit: 60 – 13 = 47 rub. from one apple.

In a day in crowded places you can sell 200-300 apples, and at large events from 500 apples.

47 x 300 (average sales) = 14,100 rubles. for one event.

What else to do outdoors?

1. Yield and tasty berries can be the key to a successful business. Quick implementation contributes to a monthly profit of 130,000 rubles.

2. . This is the most popular vegetable in the field agriculture. Business profitability is more than 150%. The product has a high purchase rate, especially at the end of the summer season.

3. - frequently asked question residents of rural areas who have a plot of land and a desire to make money from this business idea. This type of business has a profitability of 35-40%. Minimal competition and high demand for this product provide the opportunity to make good money.

4. in your garden. Sea buckthorn is not only a useful product, but also has multifunctional uses in cooking, folk and scientific medicine, and cosmetology, which makes it possible to quickly find points of sale for the product.

5. for those who want to earn money The value of this berry does not decrease until the end of the season. The income easily covers the initial expenses!

Creating your own piece of paradise on earth that brings a large harvest of delicious fruits is not an easy task. Planting a garden requires a large amount of knowledge, certain skills, and special equipment (in case of planting large plot). It is necessary not only to study the features of the area and prepare the site for planting young animals, but also to acquire high-quality planting material, as well as study the features of its cultivation and care rules.

In this article you will find recommendations for planting a garden. We will look at where to start, what season to choose for planting, what you can save on, the basic rules and technologies for planting trees; We will try to answer questions about the possibility of making money on fruit, stone fruit and nut crops.

Start of work

First, let's figure out where to start laying a garden in a country house, in a yard or a large plot of land. So, in total, even before planting the young animals, 10 works will have to be completed:

  • Make a site plan, and not only write down distances, but also calculate location of groundwater. Also worth noting soil characteristics in different zones (large areas), availability of real estate, relief features.
  • The next stage, which requires the correct establishment of a garden, is a diagram, that is drawing up an accurate future planting plan. The scheme is drawn up on the basis of the terrain plan, taking into account the characteristics of the soil, climatic features, the presence of open areas of land, the most illuminated by the sun and shadow areas.
  • Choosing the time to land plants. The rules for planting a garden in autumn and spring are not particularly different, however, the planning of work to prepare the area depends on the choice of planting season. This may include changing the topography, applying fertilizers to the soil, digging pits and other processes that take a long period of time.

If you wish, you can do all of the above work yourself or use the services of professionals. Our experienced gardeners We will help you draw up a planting plan, having previously established the characteristics of the area and soil; we will also take into account all your wishes and select plant varieties for high-quality growth and the fastest possible development of future planting.

Dependence on terrain and climate

Choosing a site for planting a garden- not an easy task. The most favorable is considered to be a well-lit area with flat terrain. Cold air masses should not stagnate in the planting area; they often cause poor development of trees and partial death of young trees. Groundwater should be at a level of 1.5-2 m from the ground surface. Soil characteristics also influence plant growth. It should be fertile, neutral (acidity close to pH=7), loose.

If the soil does not meet the desired requirements, it is necessary to carry out soil preparation for laying the garden. This includes the following work:

  • Plowing the soil and applying fertilizers. The composition of the latter directly depends on the deficiency of certain elements in the soil. Our gardeners can conduct a soil analysis. As a rule, they are added to the soil complex fertilizers and organic matter, sometimes liming is required to reduce acidity. In rare cases, the area is planted with special plants and the soil is plowed along with them, saturating it with organic matter and nitrogen (such preparation will require a lot of time; planting trees will only take place a year later, or even more).
  • Preparing the site for planting a garden may include installation of a drainage system. The simplest drainage is considered to be filling special material at the bottom of each landing pit, however, in large areas it is sometimes more effective to develop a special system that provides drainage throughout the entire planting area. This is a global job that requires special equipment.
  • If groundwater are too close to the ground surface, trees land on the hills- artificially created hills. It is delivered to the site fertile soil and a certain amount of earth is poured into each place for planting. As practice shows, the easiest way to elevate a garden is to “raise” the entire area, although in that case you need to create more soil, which affects the final cost of the work.

The beginning of the planting season directly depends on the climate zone. Planting a garden in spring is done in cold areas (in the north). Here, autumn young growth simply does not survive: with the arrival of severe frosts, most of the seedlings freeze out. Autumn planting work is carried out in the south. Here, autumn young growth shows excellent survival rate, while spring young ones wither under the scorching southern sun, without having time to take root well. In the middle zone, plants planted in both spring and autumn are well accepted.

Planting and caring for a garden: how to earn more

Living in the private sector, almost each of us is trying to acquire a vegetable garden and our own garden of fruit-bearing trees. This is the key to quality nutrition, because our own products do not contain chemicals, nitrates or artificial growth accelerators. When growing trees and shrubs great value has both the technology for planting a garden and the technology for producing fruits. The quantity and quality of the latter directly depends on compliance with the rules of planting young animals and caring for plants.

As mentioned above, before planting young animals, it is necessary to draw up a planting plan. On the Internet you can find large number different planting schemes, however, in reality, when planning the placement of trees, it is necessary to maintain other distances.

If we are talking about household planting(home garden, planting trees in the country), then the step between plants should be equal to the sum of the heights of adult trees. Only in this case will your trees be able to develop well: the crowns will grow in width (if they are pruned in a timely manner and correctly formed), and they will not intertwine. Moreover, natural light will be enough to “fill” the fruits, which affects the quality of the product.

Planting an industrial garden, on the contrary, is produced according to the rule: than more plants, the better. Modern plantings are planted according to a 0.7x2, 4x6 or 6x8 pattern (depending on the rootstock). Plantings recoup investment in 4-5 years of fruiting. They are regularly and heavily pruned. Trees in such a garden effectively bear fruit for 15-20 years, after which they are completely uprooted and new young trees are planted.

Planting an intensive plant helps quickly recoup investment in planting new plants columnar garden, bringing a large amount of harvest within a couple of years. Unlike strong and medium-sized trees, columnar plants are easier to care for, and they take up little space.

A feature of “pillar trees” is the close location of the root system to the surface of the earth. It is easily damaged by intensive watering and fertilization. Special care is needed here. For the winter, such plants are well insulated in the trunk area, and also try to provide maximum comfort for the roots (they create a fur coat from sawdust or other insulating natural materials). Correct planting of an intensive garden is based on maintaining the distances between young plants, as well as the location of plants different types. The spacing between seedlings is about 1 m between trees of the same type, and about 2 m between plants of different species and varieties.

The project for planting a garden of medium-sized or vigorous trees also takes into account the types of plants. Not all trees live in close proximity to each other. Sometimes the proximity of different species of young animals leads to negative consequences: some trees simply kill other species and only get along with their own kind. Let's give compatibility table:

The most effective way is to plant seedlings of one type of plant. However, in order for the garden to bear fruit for as long as possible, you can plant different varieties. Some will bear fruit from mid-summer, others at the end or beginning of autumn, and others towards the end of the harvest season (as winter approaches).

The characteristics of each variety are taken into account technological map for laying the garden. It also includes the rules of care, timing of pruning and fertilizing, as well as a number of other important processes. We propose to develop a technological map: practically create a special manual for caring for each tree for the effective development of plants. By following the prescribed rules and technologies, you will quickly find an excellent garden that will produce a large amount of high-quality harvest, which will allow you to quickly return the money spent on planting, after which your trees will begin to actively generate profits.

Business planning

When deciding to execute landing to make money, it is necessary to competently plan all stages of growing fruits: from planting young animals to harvesting. In this case, it is necessary to accurately calculate all cash injections: the cost of planting a garden, wages, rental of special equipment (if necessary), purchase of tools and other financial expenses.

Before you rent a plot for planting trees or buy land, you need to draw up business plan for starting a garden. This document includes the following items:

  1. Analysis climatic conditions: climate requirements of crops, temperature, air humidity and precipitation indicators, weather characteristics of the surveyed area, wind direction, microclimate, probability of the beginning of flowering of fruit trees by decades and spring frosts after the start of flowering;
  2. Site selection based on climate analysis, as well as relief features.
  3. Selection of plant species and varieties. This includes: characteristics of the main zoned varieties, breed and varietal composition of future planting.
  4. Design laying out the garden based on calculation of the area (plan for the placement of each tree). The project must take into account the division of the site into blocks, garden protective plantings, and the road network.
  5. Planting trees. Here it is important to take into account the feeding area and planting pattern (including the placement of mutually pollinating varieties, pollinators), the need for planting material, the calendar plan for planting young trees (garden plants and protective plantings), and pre-planting soil preparation. After filling out this paragraph of the business plan, you can calculate the approximate cost of planting a garden.
  6. Caring for young animals: garden soil maintenance systems, irrigation, spraying, shaping and pruning. This is where the need for technology and tools is spelled out. Exactly how to care for trees is prescribed in the technological map (this was discussed above).

Mechanization of garden planting processes is not mandatory conditions when planting trees, however, it helps to significantly simplify the task of preparing the soil composition and the planting process. If you abandon special equipment and do all the work manually, the time period spent on the bookmark will increase several times. It will be possible to start a new garden only after a year, or even two (under good conditions and the presence of a large number of workers).

We provide professional gardening services. Our gardeners optimize time and carry out rational planning of all processes. Within a quarter, you will acquire a new industrial garden, and the technological map we have developed will help you grow beautiful trees that bring a large amount of high-quality harvest in the shortest possible time.

Planting a new garden: choosing plants

Above, we have already examined the features of planning gardens: where to start, how the planting itself occurs, business planning and other processes. We mentioned earlier that the planting of orchards and vineyards should take into account the varietal and species characteristics of the trees. It remains to talk about important features each type of plant. So let's get started.

The first thing we will look at is This is the beginning of an orchard. Let's look at the most popular garden crops:

  • Peach. Peach plants are chosen because the fruits are relatively expensive. When planting, it is worth taking into account the heat-loving nature of trees, which is why peaches are most often planted in the south. There are also frost-resistant varieties, but they are distinguished by lower quality fruits: sourish taste, small dimensions. In addition, if not properly cared for, trees can quickly become “unusable” (the amount of harvest will be greatly reduced, and the garden will no longer pay for itself). Planting a peach orchard requires a qualified approach to planting and growing (a technological map is required).
  • Pear. When planning to acquire young pear trees, keep in mind that this particular plant will require special care in the first years of life. You will have to weed the area regularly: tall grass– an excellent place for aphids and other pear pests to live.
  • Apple. Planting an apple orchard is the most popular investment in the middle zone. The number of varieties exceeds all expectations. Apple tree plantings can bear fruit for 4-5 months (with proper varietal planning of the territory).

Other types of fruit trees are less popular. However, it is precisely this feature that makes it possible to make good money on the harvest.

Establishing a stone fruit garden has its own characteristics:

  1. Almost all types of stone fruit crops require pollinators or interpollinating plant species;
  2. Young animals are sensitive to increased acidity soil, liming may be required throughout the planting area.
  3. In particularly wet areas it is recommended to plant plum trees (it can also grow on lands with high level groundwater);
  4. You will constantly have to fight the growth.
  • Planting peanuts plants are allowed only in areas with high humidity. Otherwise, it is necessary to consider the irrigation system. In dry areas, growing peanuts is a very expensive and irrational undertaking.
  • Planting a garden walnut carried out exclusively from high-quality grafted planting material. It is undesirable to plant ungrafted seedlings, otherwise there can be no talk of high quality fruits. The walnut has unique feature: Even if you get a seedling from a nut from the mother tree, the fruits of the new plant may differ in taste and size. Good seedlings are young plants to which a piece of nut is grafted, which already produces a high-quality harvest.
  • Planting a garden hazelnuts(hazel) is produced in a fairly warm period of time, when the soil warms up well. The soil temperature must be at least +12°C. Otherwise, the seedlings will die.
  • Pine nut Most often it is planted from seeds, occasionally by grafting a cedar branch to a pine tree. A very long event: a large period of time will be spent on growing large trees, capable of producing a sufficient amount of harvest. On the other hand, the cost of the product will fully repay the time spent, you just need to be patient.

Let us remind you that our qualified specialists will help you carry out the preparatory and planting work. In addition to gardening work, we provide services for the selection of quality seedlings. Our professionals will independently select and deliver planting material to your site. Planting a young garden from excellent material in the right period of time using the right technology is the key to the success of a fruit growing business! That's the whole theory. It's time to start practicing! :)

We wish you to successfully acquire a planting of beautiful trees and build a profitable business!

Bookmarking a garden video

President of the Association of Gardeners of Russia (APYAPM), Chairman of the Association of Gardeners and Nurseries (ASP-RUS), Doctor of Agricultural Sciences

Candidate of agricultural sciences sciences, head Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture MichSAU

Method for establishing an intensive apple orchard

The transition of horticultural farms that has begun in our country from different shapes ownership of modern high-intensity orchards on low-growing clonal rootstocks is currently constrained high cost their laying and the need for expensive territory development. The total cost of creating one hectare of garden, taking into account the irrigation network and trellis construction, today reaches 200 - 250 thousand rubles. Large amounts of money are required to purchase high-quality planting material on weak-growing rootstocks. Its cost is in the range of 70 - 100 thousand rubles per hectare of garden. The search for ways to radically reduce the cost of purchasing planting material is underway in many European countries. They are mainly focused on the preparation or receipt of planting material by farmers themselves on their own farms. The problem of reducing costs for planting material is becoming increasingly acute in our country. In order to solve it, we in one of the farms Rostov region In the fall of 1997, JSC Krona-2 launched production experience with the aim of developing an economical technology for establishing an intensive garden using layering of clonal rootstocks, followed by budding them in a permanent place in the garden. This method allows you to establish intensive gardens in the shortest possible time with minimal financial costs for planting material (they are almost 5 times lower).


Industrial variety of apple tree Gloucester

In the experiment, in the context of variety-rootstock combinations, the total losses due to the death of rootstocks before budding, due to non-established buds, due to the death of oculants during the growing season and other reasons were taken into account. Particular attention was paid to the quality indicators of the resulting yearlings and their compliance with the new institute standards for yearlings grown at the institute using new technologies. The censuses were carried out at the end of the first season on November 1, 1999. The experiment involved more than 15,000 layerings of seven forms of superdwarf, dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks, planted in the garden according to 4.5 × 1–2 m schemes. Table 1 shows data on the percentage of trees obtained using this method of planting a garden.


Apple tree variety Golden Delicious

Table 1

Yield of annual apple trees when planting cuttings in the garden

GLOUCESTER R 22 69
R 59 75
R 59 57
GOLDEN DELICIOUS P16 73
R 2 87
FLORINA M-9 85
RED CHIEF R 60 41
LIGOL R 60 87
CHAMPION R 60 86
AIDARED R 60 84
62-396 86
RED CROFT R 60 70
G ALA MAST R 60 81
ELSTAR 62-396 37
UMIRED 62-396 78
YUROVKA 62-396 66
IONAGOLD DECOSTA 62-396 66
ENIKA 62-396 62
NSR 05 11
On average for all combinations: 72

Ligol is one of the new apple varieties for industrial gardens

The total losses on average for all variety-rootstock combinations amounted to 28% of the planted rootstocks (including 5 - 10% of surviving rootstocks with repeated budding). Such losses are explained primarily by the lack of a stationary irrigation network and the low survival rate of buds in some variety-rootstock combinations. Without taking into account four, to one degree or another, unfavorable variety-rootstock combinations out of 18, the average total losses were about 22%. No significant differences were found in the height of annual trees, although Gloster on P 59, Florina on M9 and Gala Mast on P 60 clearly stood out. In terms of trunk diameter, Idared stood out on 62-396, Gloster on P 59, Gala Mast on P 60 and Elstar on 62-396. The worst data on this indicator were observed in the varieties Ionogold Dekosta at 62-396 and Red Chief at P 60. In these variety-rootstock combinations, the trunk diameter was significantly inferior to all other options (Table 2).

Table 2

Biometric indicators of annual trees of various variety-rootstock combinations of apple trees

Gloucester R 22 4.5×1 130 14
R 59 148 16
Golden Delicious R 59 125 14
R 16 131 15
R 2 131 14
Florina M-9 140 14
Red Chief R 60 4.5×2 113 P
Ligol R 60 125 14
Champion R 60 111 13
Idared R 60 134 15
62-396 137 18
Red Croft R 60 122 15
Gala Mast R 60 140 16
Elstar 62-396 . 122 16
Umired 62-396 . 128 14
Yurovka 62-396 . 120 13
Jonagold Dec. 62-396 128 10
Enika 62-396 130 13
NSR 05 12,5 2,7
On average for: all rootstocks 129 14
incl. dwarfs 129 143
semi-dwarfs 128 14


Red Chief apple tree variety

*The diameter of the trunk was measured at a height of 20 cm (budding was carried out at a height of 15 cm) above ground level.

When planting intensive gardens, much attention is paid to the quality of planting material. When starting this experiment, there were concerns that it would be difficult to obtain well-developed trees with a branched crown and fruit formations in the field in the first year. However, the data obtained already in the first year convincingly show the possibility of obtaining such trees (Table 3).

Table 3

Number of fruit buds, total growth and foliage of annual apple trees

4.5×1
Gloucester R 22 8 1,8 0,59
R 59 8 2,0 0,83
Golden Delicious R 59 1 2,5 0,76
R 16 2 3,6 0,98
R 2 2 2,7 0,77
Florina M-9 6 4,1 136
4.5×2
Red Chief R 60 8 0,8 0,55
Ligol R 60 6 0,8 0,45
Champion R 60 2 1,3 0,48
Idared R 60 15 1,7 1,08
62-396 5 4,0 1,18
Red Croft R 60 10 2,9 0,97
Gala Mast R 60 3 3,7 1,10
Elstar 62-396 4 4,3 1,32
Umired 62-396 4 2,8 0,73
Yurovka 62-396 2 2,1 0,58
Ionogold Decosga 62-396 3 1,2 0,64
Enika 62-396 4 2,7 0,67
NSR 05 3,5 13 0,55
On average for: all rootstocks 5 2,5 0,84
62-396 4 2,8 0,85
R 60 7 33 0,77
dwarfs 6,3 1,9 0,86
semi-dwarfs 3,4 23 0,84


Fruiting of 4-year-old Gala Mast apple trees on M9 rootstock

*Only fruit buds formed on the central conductor with characteristic signs of ringlets were taken into account. Axillary and terminal fruit buds were not taken into account.

Based on the total growth, the variety-rootstock combinations Florin on M-9 (4.1 m), Idared and Elstar on rootstock 62-396 (4.0 and 4.3 m) were distinguished. The smallest number of branches and, accordingly, the total growth was recorded on the P 60 rootstock in the Red Chief, Ligol and Champion varieties (0.8, 0.8 and 1.3 m) and on the Ionogold Dekosta variety on the 62-396 rootstock (1.2 m ). The differences among rootstock groups (dwarfs - semi-dwarfs) in this indicator were about 22%. Accordingly, the same combinations were distinguished by area leaf surface. The highest indicators were for the varieties Florina at M-9, Elstar and Idared at 62-396 (1.36, 1.32 and 1.18 m2). Smallest area leaves of annual apple trees were Red Chief, Ligol, Champion at R 60, Gloster at R 22 and Yurovka at 62-396. Interesting data were also obtained on the initiation of fruit formations in annual apple trees. From the given average data for groups of rootstocks, a direct dependence was revealed on the increase in the formation of fruit formations in apple trees grafted onto weaker rootstocks.

The first data obtained in this long-term experience are of some interest for evaluation this method laying out an intensive garden. Final conclusions on the economic feasibility of the method of establishing intensive plantings by planting cuttings in a permanent place in the garden will be made later, based on the results of further research and observations.