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» Porcelain stoneware on the old floor tiles. Laying new tiles on top of the old. Installation procedure

Porcelain stoneware on the old floor tiles. Laying new tiles on top of the old. Installation procedure

Repair - in any case, a very troublesome event. And if it is assumed that a complete dismantling of wall and floor cladding will be completed, the estimated amount of work can scare even an experienced repairman, not to mention a home master. Indeed, in this case, just to get rid of old materials, it will take more than one day of intensive work.

Therefore, novice builders are trying to find out if it is possible to lay tiles on tiles and thereby save their time and effort. Let's try to figure it out together.

But, nevertheless, in some cases, it is still better to save the old floor or wall covering and make the basis for the new one. Why? Let's try to justify.

Destruction of the old foundation during dismantling

Dismantling the old tile, for sure, will lead to the destruction of the base on which it is fixed. So, when removing floor tiles, fragments of the screed will definitely break off, the plywood leveling flooring will also become unusable, and when working with a wall covering laid on drywall, the latter will most likely be damaged.

Thus, in addition to dismantling and laying new tiles, you will have to re-equip the base, which is very laborious, costly and takes a lot of time to harden the material.

"Dirty" and costly preparatory work

With all diligence, the dismantling of the old cladding cannot be done cleanly. The dusting will be very strong, since you will have to work with a puncher. The amount of construction debris that will need to be removed is also large. In addition, the bathroom will have to be completely freed from furniture and sanitary equipment.

Experienced craftsmen note that neighboring rooms may suffer from dust. Appliances and furniture in them should definitely be covered with polyethylene, if possible, it is worth protecting the decoration of the room, otherwise it can be seriously damaged.

Dismantling old tiles is a very laborious undertaking. In the process of its implementation, the old base on which the cladding lies will be necessarily damaged and will have to be restored.

"Contraindications" to the preservation of the old coating

As it has already become clear, there are many additional problems during dismantling. To minimize them, it is worth trying to leave the old lining. However, this is not always possible to do. There are several cases when leaving a tile is strictly not recommended:

  • After finishing, the expected floor level will be higher than in other rooms. The bathroom is one of the rooms where the risk of leaks is especially high, so it is recommended to make the floor level in the bathroom 3-5 cm lower. This is done so that in the event of an accident, water cannot flow out of the room. It is not recommended to break this rule.
  • Poor quality materials of the old cladding. This applies to both glue and the tile itself. A cladding covered with a network of small cracks cannot become a good basis for a new coating. Fungus, indelible grease and dirt have already appeared in the cracks. Bad glue will not be able to securely hold the tile, it will break off and loosen the base of the new cladding.
  • The room is small. It should be noted that laying tiles on top of the old coating will reduce the already small room.
  • Engineering communications are laid under the tiled coating, and there are no inspection hatches. If a new cladding is laid over such a base, in the event of an accident, two layers of tiles will have to be dismantled, which is much more costly and time-consuming.
  • Uneven lining or a clear slope that you want to level. When laying tiles, height differences of less than 4 mm are allowed for every 2 m of surface. If the difference is greater, you will have to dismantle the old coating.

SNiPs state that the basis for a tile coating must be monolithic, rough and porous. All this does not correspond to the characteristics of ceramic cladding, which is composed of individual, small-sized elements, and, moreover, is highly smooth.

Thus, it seems that it is absolutely impossible to lay a new tile on an old one. This is not entirely true. Consider the monolithic coverage. Competently laid on good glue, high-quality tiles form a solid monolithic base, quite suitable for laying another layer of cladding.

With the porosity of the material, everything is somewhat more complicated. The most significant advantage of building ceramics lies in its high density, which is combined with a minimum number of moisture-absorbing pores. The fewer pores on the surface of the tile, the better it is.

In any case, the absorption coefficient of the lining is in the order of 0.5%. This is negligible for the glue to penetrate the tile, fix in it and hold the new ceramic element on itself. That is why, before starting work on the installation of a new tile, it is necessary to remove the glaze from the old one in order to open the pores of the ceramics and at the same time increase its roughness.

The problem can be solved in three different ways:

  • Cleaning old tiles with a grinder with a special nozzle. As a result, the top layer of glaze is removed, and the pores of the material open.
  • Formation of notches on the surface of the tile. It is carried out using a grinder with an abrasive disc. In this way, cross-cuts can be applied to the ceramics, which improve the adhesion of the substrate.
  • Application of a special primer that improves the adhesion of the material. It can be any composition enriched with acicular quartz or ordinary sand. Such solutions are produced by all manufacturers of building mixtures.

Experts note that the best result can be achieved when all three methods described above are used in combination. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to do just that.

The surface of ceramic tiles is very smooth and practically devoid of pores. It is impossible to glue the cladding to such a base, therefore it must be prepared in a special way

Installation procedure

The procedure is carried out in several stages.

Stage #1: Strengthen the old coating

First of all, we need to understand how securely the old cladding holds. To do this, we take a special hammer with a copper tip, if it is not there, a small steel hammer will do, and gently tap the entire tiled floor with it. We perform the operation very carefully, without missing a single element.

We tap the center of the part and the corners. The cavities under the lining will make themselves felt with a ringing echo that will be heard from under the ceramics. It must be understood that the presence of such cavities indicates that a new coating laid on such a base will collapse.

Defective elements are immediately dismantled using a hammer and chisel. We fill the resulting cavities with cement mortar and wait for it to completely solidify. The curing time of the composition depends on the thickness of its layer. For example, a centimeter layer will completely harden in 7 days. We carefully clean the crumbling seams with a chisel and fill it with tile glue or cement mortar. We are also waiting for drying.

If, as a result of tapping the tile, it turned out that under it it does not hold well on the base, the defective cladding must be removed. We use a chisel and a hammer for this.

Stage #2: Preparing the ceramic surface for laying

We start by cleaning the tiles. To do this, we take a grinder, put a grinding wheel with medium grit on it, and get to work. We carefully process the entire ceramic surface. We remove the glaze from the tile, after which we perform notches on the tiled base, which will improve the adhesion of the material.

Now we need to prepare the surface for priming. To do this, carefully wash it. First, with clean water, washing off the dust, then we use a soapy solution. It will help remove grease and dirt.

If there are old stains or poorly washed fat on the base, add soda to the water. Rinse the ceramic surface thoroughly, rinsing it several times with clean water. After the ceramics have dried, we proceed to priming. We try to apply the solution evenly, carefully distribute it with a brush or roller.

We strictly fulfill the requirements of the instructions, apply the amount of composition indicated in it. In order not to stain the structures associated with the floor, we close them with polyethylene before work. Waiting for the primer to dry. This will take 3 or 4 hours.

To prepare the old tile coating, special solutions are used, which include acicular quartz or ordinary sand. They are available in hermetically sealed containers.

Stage #3: Marking the surface and setting the stops

Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to mark up and install the stops on which the first row of cladding will rest. It is best to draw a diagram on which all the design features of the room will be indicated. On it we perform an approximate layout of the elements. It is desirable that the seams of the upper parts lie on solid tiles. To do this, you need to shift the upper joints relative to the lower ones.

In the case of laying tiles on the wall in the lower part of the wall, we fix the stop for the first row of tiles. It can be a wooden rail or a plastic corner. We take a plumb line and draw a line perpendicular to the stop on the base. It is necessary to control the verticality of the laying. If it is planned to install tiles of different colors, you can mark the places for gluing parts of a different tone.

Installation of floor tiles starts from the far corner of the room. We draw the line of the first row and mark the location of the elements that differ from others in color or texture, which will form the pattern. We make sure that at the entrance to the room a whole part without trimming must be laid.

When making calculations, do not forget that it is necessary to take into account not only the size of the tile, but also the size of the gap between the elements.

Laying tiles on the wall is easier if you install a special stop under the first row, on which the first row of cladding will rest. Otherwise, the elements will slide down and it will be much more difficult to achieve even masonry.

Step #4: Laying the Whole Tile

The hardest part is laying out the first row. We start by applying the solution. To do this, we use a special notched trowel, the height of the teeth of which is equal to the thickness of the adhesive layer.

We lean the prepared tile against the support, then carefully turn it over and lay it on the mortar. It is not necessary to press hard on the part. It is better to slightly rotate the element around the axis with light movements. In this way, maximum adhesion can be achieved. When laying tiles, you need to remember that it will be quite difficult to tear it off the surface.

It will be possible only to slightly move the part to the side, so we choose the place for laying as accurately as possible. Be sure to check the correctness of the installation using the building level. If you need to deepen the tile a little, we do it with a rubber mallet.

We install plastic crosses in the corners of the part, which will help to maintain the exact dimensions of the gaps. Another important point: the gaps should remain as clean as possible. You can not press the parts too hard, so that the solution protrudes along the edges.

We put the tile on a layer of mortar applied to the base with a notched trowel. We lay the part in a light circular motion so that the adhesion with the glue is the best.

After gaining a little experience, you can try to apply the mortar under several tiles at a time. Then, with quick, but precise movements, we put the parts in place, slightly turning them at the same time. We distribute the crosses into the gaps, slightly press the lining with a level, while checking the correctness of its installation.

Having laid the first row, we take a break to wait for the glue to dry completely. This will make it easier to lay the rest of the tiles. An important point: all excess mortar in places intended for the installation of cut tiles must be removed immediately. Otherwise, they will dry out, and before continuing work, the hardened glue will have to be chipped off, which will necessarily affect the strength of the connection of the laid parts. We do the same before a break in work, remove the solution along the edge of the finished row.

Stage # 5: Installation of cut tiles

The remaining sections of the base must be filled with tile fragments. They must be cut from one piece. We do this with a glass cutter or tile cutter. We mark the part, not forgetting the size of the gaps.

We form a smooth edge of the element using a special machine with a diamond wheel or tile cutters for this. We install the prepared fragment in the right place in the same way as the whole tile.

Before cutting, the tiles must be accurately marked, taking into account the dimensions of the cladding and the size of the gaps.

Step #6: Grouting or Jointing

The final stage, which consists in filling the tile joints with a special solution. Before starting work, you should wait for the complete drying of the glue on which the lining was laid. After that, carefully remove all the crosses from the gaps between the tiles. Now we clean the seams and the surface of the parts from dust and debris. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose.

If we use an epoxy or silicone mortar, we glue the edges of the tiles with masking tape, which will prevent the mixture from getting on the tile, since it is very difficult to remove it from there after drying.

At the end of the tile laying, the tile joints are filled with grout. A soft rubber spatula is used for work.

The grout can be based on epoxy, silicone or cement. They are almost identical in their characteristics, differ in the way they are prepared and used. Epoxy and silicone compounds are sold ready-to-use, packaged in a sealed container.

Cement mortar must be prepared independently, diluting the dry mixture with water. We take a rubber spatula and apply a small amount of the prepared composition to the seam. Slightly press it deep into the joint. Then we remove the excess composition. To do this, we set the spatula across the seam and draw along it with a little pressure. The seam at the same time deepens a little and levels out. Having filled in this way all the inter-tile joints, leave them to dry completely.

We remove the remains of grout and masking tape. We clean and wash the coating.

Video instructions from the masters

Thus, we can conclude that, despite the recommendations of SNiPs, it is quite possible to lay tiles on top of old tiles with high quality. However, doing this is not as easy as it might seem. It is very important to correctly assess the condition of the old coating and determine whether it can become the basis for laying new tiles. In addition, it is extremely important to competently conduct preparatory work. Only in this case, you can count on a good result.

In the process of carrying out repair work with your own hands, you have to face many difficult questions, the correct answers to which will determine the quality and service life of the new finish. One of these questions - is it possible to lay tiles on tiles? Consider whether it is possible to use the old tile as the basis for a new coating, or is it still better to dismantle it in order to avoid possible problems.

Features of the preparation of various types of surfaces. How to sew seams. Criteria for choosing tiles and floor patterns.

How to remove old grout from tile joints

Quite often one has to deal with a situation where the condition of the old tile is quite satisfactory, but in order to use it as the basis for a new coating, it is necessary to replace the grout for the joints. It is quite possible to carry out this procedure, however, it requires attention and time. Consider how to remove grout from tile joints correctly.

In order to remove the old grout, there is a special tool called a “joint opener”. With it, you can remove the grout mechanically. By itself, it is a blade with a comfortable handle, but as an alternative, you can use a regular knife.

The blade of a knife or opener must be walked on both sides at an angle and straight. When doing this, be careful not to chip the edges of the tiles. It is worth noting that doing this “manually” will not work quickly, so you can use a drill with a thin drill or an electric chisel.

Important! If, in the process of removing the old grout, the tile also began to crumble, it is better to abandon the idea of ​​​​laying another layer on top, even if there is a new grout.

How to remove old grout from tile joints if it is silicone

Silicone grout also requires dismantling and replacement, especially if high-quality ventilation was not provided in the room. Very often you have to deal with the fact that the seams are affected by mold, which is almost impossible to remove. Therefore, before laying a new tile on top of the old one, it is necessary to take care of the hygiene of the seams.

Removal of silicone sealant is carried out with a sharp knife or a special scraper. After that, additional cleaning is carried out with a vacuum cleaner.

Useful advice! There are special tools that allow you to eliminate silicone faster and with less effort. Such compounds are applied using a mounting gun, after which it is necessary to wait at least 24 hours. Then the seams are wiped with a rag or paper.

Is it possible to lay tiles on tiles on the floor: features of the work

The floor covering, unlike the wall covering, is not affected by gravity. Therefore, in a sense, laying is easier to make. But in this case, another difficulty arises - the new coating will regularly be subjected to serious loads.

Before gluing tiles to the floor, you need to conduct an equally thorough check of each element of the lower layer. To do this, you can use the same tapping hammer, but you can try another approach: an object with a flat base (a box works well), you need to smoothly drag it over the surface, carefully watching so that not a single tile falls through even a few millimeters. It can be difficult to do this in a small bathroom or bathroom, but for larger rooms it is a very effective way.

In general, all the recommendations that are provided in the previous section are also relevant in the case of working with the floor. It is only desirable to give preference to mineral compositions. Thus, the surface will be provided with greater elasticity, which will allow it to withstand heavy loads and temperature changes.

Useful advice! Before laying the floor tiles on top of the old ceramic coating, it is not necessary to carry out such intensive preparatory work as in the case of the wall surface. But it is still worth moistening the base before proceeding with the application of glue, as this will positively affect adhesion.

Is it possible to make a self-leveling floor on an old tile

As a basis for a new coating, you can also use a self-leveling floor, the installation of which is carried out directly on the surface of the old tile. As in all previous cases, a mandatory procedure is a thorough check of the quality of fastening the lower layer. All loosely fitting elements must be dismantled.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that when it comes to working with a glossy surface, the top layer of the coating is removed to ensure the necessary level of adhesion between the mortar and the tile. Filling and further work are carried out according to the standard algorithm.

Useful advice! For laying a new layer of tiles, a thick layer of self-leveling floor is not required. Its thickness should not exceed 5 mm. The main thing is to evenly distribute the composition over the entire surface.

Taking into account the opinion of experts, we can say that it is possible to make a self-leveling floor over a tile only in extreme cases. At the same time, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room should be small, and the requirements for the operational characteristics of the surface should be minimal.

Is it possible to lay tiles on tiles on the street

A very interesting question that may arise is whether it is possible to lay a new layer of paving slabs on top of the old one. Of course, such a procedure is often unjustified, but nevertheless, in some cases, this technology is resorted to in the process of arranging garden paths, terraces and summer areas.

As in the case of tiles laid on the old coating inside the house, the main criterion is the quality of the fastening of the lower layer. You can check it using a mount or a strong knife. With the help of such tools, you need to try to remove one of the elements.

Important! If the tile could be displaced with a knife, but this required serious physical effort, then such a coating can be used as a base. If the tile is removed easily, in the future this may cause deformation of the upper layer.

A new pillow is poured over the old layer of tiles, which should consist of three layers - loose soil, gravel, sand. In this case, each layer must be compacted separately. From above, according to standard technology, a new layer of paving slabs is laid.

Thus, the answer to the question, is it possible to lay tiles on tiles on the bathroom floor or even on the walls, rather in the affirmative. Of course, in the process of work, you will have to follow many rules and recommendations, and the end result can almost always be unpredictable, but in principle, it is quite possible to do this.

Or do you just not want to spend time and effort on it? The exit is simple. Provided that the old pottery is held firmly, the new one can be placed directly on top of it. Read carefully the basics of how to lay tiles on tiles and you will be able to complete the finishing work as quickly as possible.

In what cases is this installation possible?

This pottery is not always possible. Let's see when it is permissible, and when it is strictly prohibited.



materials

Experts who have considerable experience and know everything about how to lay tiles on tiles recommend the use of the following consumable mixtures:

  1. Primer Ceresit ST-19 betokontakt or a similar mixture from another company.
  2. Adhesive composition for tiles Ceresit CM-17 or CM-117. You can also purchase SM-16 or SM-115.

Why betokontakt? Because this acrylic primer has particles of sand, cement and other additives that can create roughness on the glossy surface of ceramics. Only when using it can a good result be guaranteed.


Get a little more new tiles than you need according to your calculations. Ten percent over is enough to eliminate the lack of a whole tile that occurs when cutting or splitting, as well as in case of calculation errors.

Work progress

Before gluing tiles on tiles, be sure to prepare the base. This stage is the main one in determining the quality of the final result.

Foundation preparation

Make sure the old finish layer is strong. If any tile is chipped or cracked, remove it. Where the sounds of emptiness are heard, the floor should also be cleaned of old tiles. Seal the formed empty places and depressions with cement mortar under the floor level.

Then remove all dirt and dust. If cracked in old seams, it should also be removed. By opening the base with the above primer, you will create a grain on the surface, which will give additional adhesion to the new mortar. The soil is quite expensive, but it allows you to do everything quickly.


There is another way out in the question of how to lay tiles on old tiles in conditions of poor adhesion. To improve it, you need to remove the glazed layer from the old tile. This can be done using an ordinary grinder and an emery wheel. It is enough to carefully scratch and the adhesion of the glue will increase significantly.

Another option is to create scratches manually. You can also use coarse sandpaper or a sanding grater with the appropriate attachment for this.

For better adhesion, you can make notches on the tile, removing with a grinder not the entire glossy layer, but only 60%. Notches can be made with any suitable tool. The distance between them should not exceed 20 mm. This is the slowest and most time-consuming method, therefore specialists rarely resort to it.

We put ceramics


  1. Only the base (wall or floor) needs to be lubricated with adhesive solution.
  2. Please note that for a conventional ceramic adhesive mixture, it is necessary to prepare the base more carefully.
  3. When treating the base with soil, you can protect the surrounding objects with an oilcloth. Please note that pipes and taps must also be covered.

That's all the basic rules for laying new ceramics on the old. If the decision is made, then, following the above instructions, you can do very high quality.

The desire to make repairs efficiently and quickly and at the same time avoid difficulties is common to all owners of apartments and houses. Many of them want to know how to lay tiles on tiles. This method of finishing is quite viable; under a number of conditions, a new layer of ceramics will hold firmly and for a long time.

What can be avoided by laying tiles on top of the old

The tile on the floor and walls in the bathroom during the overhaul causes a real shock. Especially if complex waterproofing was done in the room, or if the decoration was created during the construction of the house.

Laying tiles on tiles will avoid a number of fairly large-scale complexities and can look like a rational solution. The inconvenience may be:

  1. When removing the old coating, the formation of a huge amount of debris is inevitable. It will need to be stored, taken out and taken out by special transport. If laying tiles on the old one is done by hand, you can get rid of a whole range of troubles.
  2. Bathroom or toilet equipment can be installed in such a way that the removal of the old coating will damage the sanitary ware. If there are no financial opportunities to replace equipment, laying tiles on tiles looks extremely attractive. Even more advantages in this option will be seen by those who have never installed and connected a bathroom and a toilet.
  3. Removing old ceramics may necessitate a complete refurbishment of the floor or walls. For example, thin reinforced screeds laid on a raised floor or plywood will probably have to be dismantled too, as they will be damaged. Reworking the base is much more difficult than laying tiles on old ceramics. A similar problem arises in the bathroom, where waterproofing is done by coating. The layer of polymer or mastic will have to be completely removed and water protection restored. By laying ceramics on old tiles, you can avoid solving complex problems.
  4. Sometimes it is not possible to free adjacent rooms or protect them from dust. When dismantling the old coating, not only a lot of debris is formed, but also the inevitable clouds of fine concrete dust penetrating everywhere. If you lay ceramics directly on the tiles on the floor, you can carry out all the work very carefully.
  5. When removing the old coating with inevitable damage to the screed, you will have to remove it, which will significantly lower the level of the floor. Therefore, installing a new one on an old tile is a rational solution.

Everyone evaluates the acceptability of laying ceramics on the existing coating for their part. But the fact remains: many people find this way of finishing attractive. Especially when you consider that the construction of a new screed will require the purchase of consumables, time and qualifications for the work, the cost of removing construction debris is added to the financial costs. No wonder so many people want to know how to lay tiles on tiles.

Substrate preparation for laying tiles on tiles

There are situations when starting laying on an old tile is not recommended, the glued layer will not last even a year. Before making a decision to carry out certain works, it is worth carefully weighing the pros and cons, as well as making sure that the conditions for applying new ceramics will ensure its long service life.

Before making a decision, you need to make sure that you can put a new tile on top of the old one. For this, a number of checks are carried out:

  1. The old coating must be durable, monolithic. You can check this criterion with a small hammer, tapping each tile in different places. If a dull sound is heard at all points, the old ceramic fits well and evenly. In cases where the blows are resonant in many places - we do not glue new ceramics, the existing coating is applied poorly, there are voids under the finish. If there are few points where the hammer sounds loudly, it is worth considering the option of removing unreliable elements.
  2. The evenness of the surface is carefully verified. Builders don't suffer from perfectionism. In houses, especially old buildings, there are cases when the difference in height along the surface of the floor or wall is several tens of millimeters. It is difficult to compensate for such a difference with the help of an adhesive composition, in addition, there is no guarantee of a strong fixing of new coating elements.
  3. Each tile on the floor is evaluated - cracked and moving are found. If there are few of them, you can put new ceramics on the old ones with a minimum of additional work.

The base on which the tile is placed also plays an important role. With the floor, everything is relatively simple: when assessing the possibility of laying new ceramics, the issue of raising the level of the floor is considered.

Surface preparation of old tiles

The main thing that needs to be achieved before laying tiles on top of the old one is sufficient surface roughness for adhesion of the adhesive mixture. Used in several ways:

  1. Removing gloss from tiles. This operation is done with the help of grinders or drills with mounted grinding wheels. The work is very monotonous and hard. A huge amount of dust is formed, so eye and respiratory protection is required. It is recommended to work in pairs. The second performer will hold the vacuum cleaner mouth in the ceramic dust ejection area. It is necessary to remove the gloss from the tile in goggles and overalls, since not only dust, but also small pieces of a glassy substance will fly from the tool.
  2. Creating notches. The operation is performed with the help of a grinder. It is impossible to use a hammer, chisel or perforator: the surface of the tile is durable, and a strong blow will crack the ceramics. The use of goggles, masks and overalls is mandatory. Many flying sharp pieces of glassy mass are formed.
  3. Drilling. Using a glass drill, you can create a base suitable for adhesive adhesion with a minimum of effort and debris. To do this, recesses are made, with a grid, on the entire surface where the new tile will be laid. The drilling depth should be small - it is enough to go through a layer of gloss on the old ceramics. The only drawback of this method is the large amount of time and effort that will be required to complete the work.

All of these works generate a lot of noise, dirt, and require a lot of time. Their merit is only cheapness. Modern tools will help to avoid problems with dust and guarantee a good result.

Before gluing the tiles, the old one is treated with mixtures of the Betonkontakt class. The composition with ordinary coarse-grained sand is relatively cheap, with quartz it is more expensive, but the formed surface better retains the adhesive composition applied to it.


The use of special mixtures to increase adhesion takes place in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. It is not recommended to deviate from the recipe, exposure time, complete drying. This type of processing takes place without dirt, unnecessary noise, quickly. But before applying the composition to the surface of the floor or wall, it is required to carry out the final preparation of the base.

Final preparation of the old foundation

Before applying the adhesive for tiles or special means to increase adhesion, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe old finish must be prepared completely.

Held:

  • removal of split, moving elements of the coating, followed by cleaning and sealing the recess with a cement-containing putty, the requirement is that the surface after processing must be even, form a single level with the old ceramics;
  • inspection of the state of grouting, in the presence of cracks, signs of coloring, mold - the composition is removed;
  • thorough cleaning and drying of the entire surface for finishing with detergent compositions;
  • complete disinfection, degreasing using alcohol-containing products or solvents;
  • anti-mold and.

Carrying out this work is a mandatory step.


The base under the new tile must be protected, not have zones of mechanical weakening .

How to lay tiles on tiles

Laying of new ceramics is carried out according to standard rules. Conventional adhesive compositions are used, they are applied with a notched trowel. Laying of coating elements is best done from the door. In bathrooms and toilets, the direction is chosen so that the last rows are located under the plumbing. This will ensure their minimum visibility and trimmed parts will not disturb the appearance of the coating.

The main feature of laying new ceramics on old ones is that the drying time of the adhesive composition is significantly increased. The reason is the low absorbency of the surface of the existing finish. But you shouldn't be upset about this. When laying a new coating on top of an old one, you can to some extent work more slowly and ignore drafts. The main thing is that the temperature in the room is more than 15 degrees.

The degree of increase in drying time is significant. On ceramics laid on the old, you can not walk or subject it to loads for 3-4 days, against the standard 12 hours for coatings on concrete. After - grouting is performed, followed by surface cleaning.

The period of complete drying increases from 5 days to a minimum of three weeks. During this time, you should not place furniture, bathroom, plumbing and other heavy objects on the ceramics laid on the old one. If you carefully prepare, clean the surface and follow the recommendations for drying time, the coating laid on the existing base will last a long time and will not create problems.

One of the most economical ways - laying tiles on tiles - may not be applicable under certain circumstances. These include the following:
  • If worn-out communications are under the old coating, and there is no way to access them;
  • When cracks of various sizes are found on old ceramics;
  • If voids are found when tapping the floor;
  • Small dimensions of the room: the new layer will make the room visually even smaller;
  • If the tile is old, and a “web” of cracks has formed on it, which indicates not only a large accumulation of dirt, but also the possible presence of a fungus;
  • Strong surface slope.
If the floor is uneven, then it is necessary to remove the old ceramic layer, completely level the surface and only then proceed with laying a new decorative tile. You can work at an air temperature in the room of at least 10°C, and the floor - at least +5°C.

Surface inspection

If a decision is made to lay new ceramics on top of the old one, then it is imperative to carefully prepare the foundation for further work. Inspection of the condition of the old tile is carried out as follows:
  1. Check how the floor in the bathroom is located in space using the building level. Leveling the surface with glue is not enough if there are strong slopes to the side or irregularities are found.
  2. Pay attention to fallen pieces of tiles on the floor, chips, cracks and any other imperfections.
  3. Knock out the old coating using a hammer. The tile has peeled off the base if ringing sounds are clearly audible. In this case, laying a new ceramic layer on top of the old one is not possible.
  4. Check all seams. They must be intact: not crumble and not fall out.
  5. Check the floor for loose finishes.

Attention! If during the inspection more than 10% of floor defects are revealed over the entire area of ​​the bathroom, then the old coating should be dismantled, the surface cleaned and a new finish glued. Laying tiles on tiles on the floor in this case is impractical.

Preparatory Steps

So that after laying ceramics on the old tile layer, the decorative coating does not slip due to the lack of a solid base, it is necessary to achieve excellent adhesion of the layers to each other. In this case, the old tile should be sufficiently rough. At the stage of preparation for laying, it is imperative to clean the old surface from contamination. Even if at first glance it seems that the tile is clean, the thinnest greasy coating has formed on it during the entire period of operation, which can prevent two tile layers from sticking. To achieve optimum ceramic roughness, one of the following options can be used:
  • Treat the top glossy ceramic layer with a primer;
  • Remove no more than 60% of the layer with a grinder and make notches every 3 cm.
To create a rough surface, the primer "concrete-contact" is ideal. When applied, it is tightly held even on gloss, and the adhesive composition sets well on a rough tile layer. The second method helps to create a strong connection between the tiles, by removing part of the layer and applying a lot of notches. However, there are certain disadvantages of these methods. Too much dirt remains from the grinder, and the purchase of a primer layer is an additional financial cost.

The order of the process

The process of laying a new decorative ceramic layer on the old one is practically no different from the usual one, however, there are certain differences between them. So that the seams of the new ceramics do not coincide with the old ones, when laying out the first row, this nuance must be immediately foreseen. The recommended height of the comb on the spatula is from 10 to 15 mm. The cleaned surface must be treated with an adhesive intended for ceramics and left to dry completely. New ceramics should be dusted first with a damp cloth, then dry. Use a roller to apply a special primer, if the appropriate method of surface preparation is selected. The drying time of the concrete contact is at least two hours.

When working with a grinder to clean the surface of the glaze, be sure to use special glasses. This will protect your eyes from the smallest grains of ceramics and dust particles. The surface prepared by any of the above methods is covered with a special adhesive composition designed for your coating with a smooth spatula. Using the relief tool, the coating becomes rough. The laying of new ceramics can take place in any convenient way. Experienced craftsmen advise grouting all joints after at least three days from the moment of laying, since special glue for ceramics dries rather slowly. Adhesives such as Eunice are in demand, guaranteeing a stable and reliable coating, which you can buy in the network of our company stores.
Attention! Laying new decorative ceramics on top of the old one raises the level of the floor by 3-4 cm. Therefore, the floor level must be less than the specified height. For practicality, it is recommended to install a small threshold at the entrance to the room, which, when water leaks, will protect the corridor from moisture.
If you follow the basic rules for surface preparation, it will not be difficult to put a new ceramic coating on an old tile. It is important to conduct a thorough inspection of the floor before starting work, to identify all defects and only then proceed to cleaning the surface and laying. In terms of time and finances, this method is considered the most optimal, and with a competent approach, the coating will turn out to be reliable and durable.