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» Installation of metal tiles. How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands. Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Installation of metal tiles. How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands. Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

A reliable roof, in which there is high-quality waterproofing and insulation along the slopes, is the dream of any cottage owner either country house. Today, such a dream is easily achievable if it is fulfilled.

Before it will be from a metal tile with your own hands, you will need to consider the issue of removal old roof in which there may be no waterproofing. IN this case everything will depend on the technology by which the production took place roofing cake, and its states.

List of items that will be needed in order to install a new roof to your house:

  • hacksaw for metal;
  • anti-condensation films;
  • waterproofing;
  • galvanized nails;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • sealing tape.

The process of performing control measurements with your own hands

After the installation of the rafters is completed, you will need to re-measure the dimensions of the roof slopes. This is due to the fact that during the construction there could well be any deviations. It is worth paying attention to the squareness of the roof, because due to the additional elements it will be possible to hide only small defects (no more than 10 mm).

It is worth knowing that during the roofing of the roof with metal tiles, the cutting of sheets must be carried out exclusively with the help of a hacksaw, a hand-held electric saw or special scissors.

It is worth noting that it is possible to use technology in which there is waterproofing only if the roof slope is at least 14 degrees.

The choice of the type of snow retainers for the roof will depend on what material the roof is made of and how much snow falls in a particular region. The main size that will determine the length of the sheets is the length of the slope. This is the distance from the roof ridge to the eaves, which must be set taking into account the overhang of the sheet from the eaves (up to 40 mm).

In the case where the slope is longer than 7 m, the sheets will need to be divided into two or more fragments that overlap (at least 150 mm). The disadvantage of long sheets, which have fewer joints, is that they are very inconvenient to work with.

It is worth knowing that during the cutting of sheets it is necessary to produce exclusively with the help of a hacksaw, a hand-held electric saw or special scissors. All places where bare metal remains must be treated special paint which protects steel from corrosion. At the same time, it is not at all recommended to use a popular angle grinder with an abrasive wheel installed in order to cut sheets. Its use does not justify itself.

How to install the crate with your own hands

The space under the roof must be good ventilation, therefore, a crate and a counter-lattice will be needed. Anti-condensate films will need to be placed between the rafters and sheets of metal. Waterproofing should be spread parallel to the eaves.

For soft roof from roll materials a full frame is required.

The material should sag a little between the rafters. A small slack in tension (1-2 cm) will be enough. Along the rafters on top of it, you will need to nail small bars with a section of 40x25 mm or more. This will be a counter-lattice, on top of which it will be necessary to fix the flat bars of the crate. The distance is equal to the step of the wave at the metal tile. The board that will go to the cornice will need to be chosen 10-15 cm thicker than the rest.

It is worth noting that the bars for the crate and all other wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic without fail. He is able to protect them from insects and rot.

The arrangement of a metal roof must necessarily include the use of special materials for waterproofing. There are 2 types of waterproofing, therefore, it is important not to make a mistake here. The first is intended to protect the insulation and rafters from any penetration of moisture vapor from inside the room. The second waterproofing is waterproofing films that protect against wind, moisture and condensation. They must be installed exclusively on top of the insulation. They pass water vapor, and therefore it does not accumulate in the insulation. The slope of the slopes does not allow moisture that flows from the metal tile to linger on the film for a long time.

Do-it-yourself installation of a valley and a cornice strip

Installation right roof from metal tiles requires protection not only from condensate, which forms on the reverse side of metal sheets, but also from precipitation. They can pose a danger to the lower edge of the crate, therefore, a cornice strip may be needed here. It consists of a number of boards that are nailed to the crate overlapping each other. In order to do the installation yourself, you should install galvanized nails in increments of no more than 30 cm.

Scheme of the roof valley.

Valleys should be used when the slopes are adjacent to each other. The lower edge of the valley should be laid over the completed cornice strip. It is necessary to use a porous sealant to get rid of the gap between the roof covering and the bottom bar of the valley.

The overlay of the valley can give the roof structure a complete look, it must be installed after the installation of the sheets. Its fixation occurs in the upper part of the wave, while the step is 30-50 cm.

It is necessary to install the end plate using self-tapping screws. In this case, the step between them should be no more than 40 cm. The strips themselves must be mounted with an overlap (10 cm) in length.

How is the arrangement of the roof of metal tiles with their own hands

The installation of the coating should begin from the end of one of the slopes after the preparatory work is completed, which includes the laying of an anti-condensation film and the installation of the crate.

If the installation starts from the left end, the second sheet must be installed under the last wave of the first. When work begins from the right end of the roof, new leaf must be laid on top of the last wave of the previous one. In the case when there is a hipped roof, installation will need to start from the middle of the slope, after which the laying is carried out evenly in both directions.

Each of the sheets has a capillary groove along its edge. Such a groove should be covered by the edge of the next sheet. It is necessary to align the sheets of the coating along the cornice strip.

Self-tapping screws, with which the sheets are fixed, must be in the deflection of the wave.

The obvious fact is that it is not difficult, but there are some nuances that you need to know about. For example, self-tapping screws, with the help of which the sheets are fixed, must be in the deflection of the wave. It is necessary to use only those screws that have a special sealing washer. At the same time, they will need to be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the material of the crate. The average consumption of self-tapping screws is not at all large. It is up to 8 pieces per 1 sq. m.

If you screw in the screws at an angle, they will not be able to tightly press the sealing washer, therefore, there will be a potential leak in the roof.

An important issue is the movement on the roof in the process of construction or repair work. It is worth noting that it is recommended to avoid movement on the finished roof altogether, however, if all existing rules are followed, it can cause only minimal problems.

It is recommended to use shoes that have soft soles. It is allowed to step only on the wave deflection and only in the place where the crate will be under the metal layer. In no case should you step on the crest of the wave.

Mounting the skate with your own hands to ensure good ventilation

A properly installed ridge is a guarantee of good, high-quality ventilation of the space that is under the roof.

This element must be given Special attention at a time when a do-it-yourself metal roof is being installed.

Cover sheets should not converge to each other, while there should be enough space between their edges under the ridge bar. Fixation of the skate should be done using self-tapping screws that are screwed into the top of every second wave. You will need to paste over the edges of the sheets themselves with sealing tape.

If you need to make a semicircular ridge on a hipped roof, it would be best to use special elements such as Y-shaped linings.

Even if the person who performs the repair work knows that he may make a mistake when making a joint with such a vertical surface as a pipe or wall. In such cases, the contact zone will be isolated with the help of an abutment strip and a self-adhesive seal. Additional sealing can be easily created with a sealant.

The lower junction bars must be installed in a groove prepared on the surface (pipe or wall). To do this, strobe should be performed, after which it will be necessary to remove dust and rinse the strobe. The junction bar is cut, installed and fixed with self-tapping screws.

After the work is completed, you will get an internal apron, but you will also need to organize water drainage. To do this, use a flat sheet of metal, the edges of which will form the sides.

In addition to the internal apron, you can also use an external one, which is created from the upper abutment strips. Install it in almost the same way as the internal one, with the exception of chasing. The edges of the planks are simply fixed to the wall.

Some difficulties may arise when working on roof breaks. Such elements can be internal and external. In the first case, an abutment bar is used, which is installed together with the seal. If we are talking about external kink, you will need to use cornice plank.

Do-it-yourself installation of a drainage system and snow retainers

Rectangular sections should be used. Their gutters need to be mounted below the edge of the roof by 2-3 cm.

Snow guards are installed on the mounting plate using self-tapping screws that reach the crate. They screw up every second wave.

28.09.2017 0 comments

The need for reliable and high-quality overlapping structures for various purposes is an axiom. Developers increasingly prefer metal tiles to replace classic slate and galvanized sheet. Seemingly complex laying of material, entrusted to specialists, can be successfully completed independently with helpers from among relatives and good friends. Desire, passion, the availability of the necessary tools should be based on certain theoretical knowledge in order to obtain the expected result from the work. Theoretical points and helpful tips presented in this material.

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Coating advantages and disadvantages

In favor of choosing a metal tile, the following qualities of roofing material can be cited:

  • environmental friendliness - not included harmful substances and compositions;
  • light weight - 3.6-5.2 kg / m2;
  • excellent strength, achieved by the presence of structural stiffeners, gives a properly installed metal tile sheet with a thickness of 0.5 mm the ability to withstand a load of more than 200 kg / m2;
  • installation and repair of the roof is not difficult;
  • Fire safety;
  • aesthetic classic look with a wide choice of material of various thicknesses, profiles, protective coatings and colors;
  • minimum linear expansion under the influence of temperature and high resistance to its differences.

When choosing a material, you need to know its disadvantages. Metal roofing has:

  • The tendency to form condensation on the surface of the sheet from the temperature difference between the outside air and the attic. For a material based on metal, this can cause corrosion processes.
  • Noise when exposed to precipitation (rain, hail) and from contact with wind-swaying tree branches.

Both problems are significantly mitigated by the obligatory insulation of the roof from the attic. Insulating "pie" shifts the "dew point" outward and at the same time performs the role of sound insulation.

Calculation of material and necessary fittings

To order full set materials for the arrangement of the roof, it is necessary to measure the prepared structure. To be measured:

  • Slope length - measured in the center and at the edges of the overhang from the ridge to the outer edge of the lower cornice board. The main indicator is considered the maximum with the addition of a canopy allowance.
  • Slope widths.
  • The lengths of the outer (ridges) and inner (valleys) angles and their summation.
  • Lengths of ridges and cornices along the perimeter of the roof structure.

All measurement results are transferred to a sketch or a roof plan. According to this sketch, a sales consultant or specialist construction company will be able to accurately calculate the required number of sheets of metal tiles various sizes. Sheets are produced in 1, 3, 6 or 10 modules (a module is a unit of area equal to one profile row of a metal tile). The selection of sheets of the required dimensions will reduce the amount of material waste when laying a roof with complex geometry.

An example of the layout of sheets of metal tiles on the 1st of the slopes of the hip roof.

When counting the number of sheets, they are taken into account usable area, which is 8-12% less than the total due to the overlap of the sheets with each other. Then the list is supplemented by water collectors, valleys, a ridge, snow holders, strips and sheets of steel in the color of the selected tile, and the necessary fasteners. On the roof plan, existing and planned ventilation shafts, antennas, windows (dormer, dormers), chimneys should be marked. Their finishing at the junction with the roof will also require the purchase of special fittings.

Preparatory work

Main installation work preceded by mandatory preparatory. Their importance cannot be underestimated. At this stage, check:

  • The correctness of the assembled truss system, the accuracy of its geometry.
  • The presence of crates, counter-lattices. Correspondence of the section of the molded material and the pitch of the lathing with the pitch of the rafters, the expected load, and the recommendations of the accompanying documentation of the tile manufacturer.
  • The presence of a solid or additional cornice crate for reliable fastening of the safety elements used (fences, snow guards).
  • The integrity of the insulation membranes.
  • The presence of additional boards for fastening skates and boards for strengthening in the valleys.
  • The possibility of organizing ventilation of the entire space under the roof. For this, obligatory eaves and ridge vents must be provided. If they are present, air enters the cornice part, ventilates and dries the seamy side of the metal tile from possible condensate, and is removed through the ridge zone.
  • Was there any processing wooden structure special means for fire and biological protection.

The device of the truss system, lathing and hydrovapor barrier.

Main works

Step-by-step installation of metal tiles on the roof on your own.

  1. For the provided water drainage system, brackets are mounted no further than 0.7 m from each other.
  2. Eaves strips are nailed (step 30 cm) with galvanized nails. A waterproofing film laid under the crate is slightly let down on the bar and cut off.
  3. The first sheet of metal tiles to be laid is leveled at the pediment and temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the ridge, the other at the eaves.
  4. The next three sheets are temporarily fixed and the whole block is aligned.
  5. Now you need to fix all the sheets of tiles on the crate.
  6. Further, the operation with 3-4 sheets is repeated until the entire slope is covered.
  7. The edges of the profile of the metal tile should not reach the axis of the ridge at least 8 cm. A ventilation tape is installed on them and then ridge strips are fastened at the highest points of the profile with self-tapping screws (step 30-80 cm).
  8. The gable plank is installed from the bottom up: the fastening step is 30-60 cm, the overlap is 5-10 cm. The plank should cover top line profile wave.

Arrangement of valleys

When the full size sheets of shingles are in place, the interior corners are finished. Even at the preparatory stage, additional sheathing boards were stuffed in the valleys to be able to withstand the load from possible snow “bags”. Now the gutter itself from the bent sheet is laid from below to the ridge. Vertical overlap of sheets - 200 mm. The width of the sheet from the axis of the valley is 0.5 m per side.

On the laid sheets of the gutter, markings are made (10 mm on the sides of the axis of the valley), along which the sheets adjacent to the inner corner will be cut. A special seal is attached to the edges of the gutter. Cut, according to the markup, sheets of metal tiles are placed in their places and attached to the crate no closer than 0.25 m from the axis of the corner. Index correct fastening- no gaps between the tiles and the sealant and a tight fit of the sheet to the board of the crate at the attachment point. If the edges of the tile fit to the valley were cut off unevenly and with defects, do not worry. All flaws will be hidden under the installed decorative overlay.

Roofing near pipes

Pipes passing through the roof and ventilation shafts along the perimeter are lined with a wall profile made of bent galvanized sheets with a stable polymer coating. The overlap of the profiles on the pipe is at least 15 cm. They are attached to the crate under the sheets of tiles, the junction with the pipe is treated with sealant. Under the lower profile, a “tie” is wound up and fastened - a flat triangular sheet with a flanging - to ensure that the water that enters under the roof is drained from the pipe towards the eaves. After mounting the wall profile, the “tie” and the metal tile itself, the elements of the adjacent “apron” are installed at the joints with the pipe.

Accessories

The installation of the accessories provided for by the plan is carried out strictly according to the technology specified by the manufacturer in the attached instructions for a specific product. But all installed stairs, railings, ventilation outlets, walkways and other accessories are united by general rule fastenings - through sheets of roofing material directly to the crate using synthetic gaskets.

  • Metal tile is a measured material, the length of sheets of which reaches 7.5 m. For its temporary storage or long-term storage, a flat area is selected with installed through 0.5 m wooden beams. The same bars are used as spacers between sheets. A stack of folded sheets is covered and pressed down from above (in 2-3 places) with a load that can prevent unwanted movement of the material from gusts of wind.
  • The supply of roofing material to the roof is carried out along two boards, as if along guides.
  • The use of a "grinder" when working with metal tiles should be excluded, because when cutting, in addition to the edge in the cut area, the polymer coating is also broken (burned through) in places where hot metal filings hit it. Second important point– The warranty for sheets cut with this power tool is voided by the manufacturer.
  • Seals are not used under the decorative overlay of the valley. When fixing the overlays, you need to make sure that the valley itself is not damaged by self-tapping screws.
  • The wall adjoining profile can be mounted immediately on the wall plane or in a prepared strobe with the obligatory sealing of the joint with a sealant.
  • A large overhang from the eaves can cause deformation of the edge of the metal tile. The optimal overhang is 40 mm.
  • Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 7-10 pieces / m2. The length of the self-tapping screws for fastening the tiles to the crate is 25 mm, between each other - 19 mm.
  • Usually, a metal tile is attached to the crate in every third wave of the profile; near the gables, ridges and cornices - through the wave. The self-tapping screw is driven 1.5 cm below the stamping line.
  • Working with metal tiles requires maximum accuracy and delicacy to preserve the sprayed layer. Therefore, when working on the roof, shoes with soft soles are used.

The technology of mounting a roof from a metal tile profile is not complicated. Following her points and proper maintenance of the roof in the future can remove the issue of overlapping the building from the agenda for 50 years.

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Metal roofing is one of the most popular materials used for roofing. This material good both for its performance characteristics and ease of installation, which contributed to its popularization among owners of private houses who decided to build a roof on their own. In this article, we will talk about how to install a metal tile with your own hands.

Selection and purchase of metal tiles

In order to acquire a sufficient amount of material for arranging the roof, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan for the future structure - and for this it is required to measure the roof and display the data obtained on the sketch.

The parameters that determine the amount of metal tiles include the following:

  1. Roof slope length. Measurements are taken from the ridge to the extreme part of the eaves, but for the utmost accuracy it is worth measuring three indicators - the distance between the overhangs and along the centerline of the ridge. The outer part of the windboard and the center line of the ridge are taken as reference points.
  2. The length of the cornices and skates. These indicators must be measured along the entire perimeter of the building, taking into account the design of the future roof.
  3. Length of inner corners (valleys) and outer corners (ridges).
  4. Also, the diagram should show the dimensions of all ventilation shafts, dormers, chimneys and antennas present on the roof.

The calculation of the required amount of metal tiles is carried out by sellers on the basis of a previously drawn up roofing plan, so it must be painted in detail. In addition to the sheets of metal tiles themselves, the kit should include a complete set of fasteners and accessories.

Warehousing and storage of metal tiles

Standard metal tiles are produced in sheet form with measured lengths up to 7.5 meters. To store sheets Smooth surface, on top of which wooden blocks are laid out every 50 cm. The sheets are stacked, covered and loaded with a pair of bags filled with sand - in the event of a gusty wind, they will protect the sheets from scattering.

During installation, the metal tile is dragged onto the roof along two guide boards. You need to hold the sheets by the sides at those points where there are waves.

Preparation of roof structures - step by step instructions

Before installing the metal roofing on the roof, you need to make sure that the installation of the supporting structures of the roof is correct. In particular, all elements of the crate should already be in place, and the insulation should not have any defects such as gaps or gaps. The crate must be installed with such a step, which is indicated in the documents attached to the material.

The thickness of the crate is calculated depending on the pitch of the rafters and the level of precipitation in this region. The latter figure for different regions can vary significantly, so it is necessary to find suitable data. In the event that the rafters are located at a distance of more than 90 cm from each other, or if a serious snow load, then near the cornices between the boards it is worth installing additional elements of the crate or solid flooring, which will allow you to install snow retainers or fencing in the future.


The first board of the crate, going immediately behind the cornice overhang, may have a section that differs from the rest of the boards. As a rule, in project documentation there is a recommended cross section of the crate - you can use this value. If there is no project, then there is always the opportunity to order it from metal tile suppliers - of course, this is an additional service, so the budget allocated for the roof will have to be increased.

At the point where the skate is installed, another board is needed to which the elements of the skate will be attached. In the valleys, if they are to be equipped, additional boards are also stuffed between the elements of the crate, which increase the strength of the structure and reduce the likelihood of damage to the sheets of metal.

Another point that cannot be ignored when equipping a roof from a metal tile with your own hands is the ventilation of the space under the roof. Air must be provided with unhindered passage into this space through the cornices and exit through the ridge part, so that it passes through all areas located under the roof and ventilates the inside of the metal tile. The roof must be designed in such a way that there are no areas on it where air will stagnate. The lack of good ventilation often leads to the destruction of the structure due to the effects of condensation and leaks.


Manufacturers of metal tiles are aware of the need for ventilation of the structure and try to take this aspect into account. The optimal solution that will provide high-quality ventilation is the gaps between the boards of the batten and in the space between the counter batten - this ensures that the metal tile and the waterproofing layer are blown through.

And the last thing worth paying attention to is that wooden structural elements must be treated with compounds that increase fire resistance and resistance to biological influences. The cheapest option protective composition is milk of lime, but construction market offers a lot of other options - if you have a budget, you can purchase coverage with a variety of characteristics.

Required Tools

Before performing step by step installation metal tiles, you need to stock up on the following set of tools:

  • Screwdriver;
  • Hammer;
  • rubber mallet;
  • Soft brush;
  • fabric tape measure;
  • Building level;
  • Marker.


Several tools are suitable for cutting sheets, but one of them will be enough for the job:

  • Hand-held circular saw (makes it easier to work with big amount sheets);
  • Electric jigsaw and a set of files with small teeth;
  • Electric drill with a nozzle for cutting metal;
  • Metal scissors.

A standard construction tool - a grinder - cannot be used for cutting metal tiles. In the process of working with a grinder, there is always a deformation of the polymer coating at the site of the cut. In addition, heated sawdust causes the upper layer of the material to burn through, as a result of which it becomes unsuitable for further use.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation algorithm

Do-it-yourself installation instructions for metal tiles come down to the following sequence of actions:

  1. First you need to install supports for gutters, if they will be installed at all. The step between the supports should be 70 cm or less.
  2. Further, with the help of galvanized nails, cornice strips are attached. The fastening step is about 30 cm. The planks should be installed with an overlap of about 10-15 cm. The waterproofing membrane is pressed onto the plank. Waterproofing must be hidden from direct sunlight.
  3. Further step-by-step instruction installation of metal tiles provides for the installation of the sheets themselves. You can start laying sheets from any edge of the roof. When laying, the location of the capillary groove must be taken into account: depending on it, the edge of the previously mounted sheet must either be raised or the sheets must be laid sequentially. Most bottom sheet aligned with the slope and fixed in draft order. The overhang of sheets from the side of the eaves should be 40 mm - practice shows that this is the optimal value.
  4. The following sheets are installed sequentially. They need to be aligned not only relative to the eaves, but also relative to each other. Three sheets are temporarily fixed and tightly fitted to each other, after which they can be fixed. Convinced of correct location sheets of metal and the proper size of the overhang near the cornice, you can proceed to the next steps. The temporary mount located near the ridge can already be removed.
  5. Next, the sheets are attached to the crate using self-tapping screws with seals. The sheets are usually fixed to each other with self-tapping screws 4.8x19 mm, and the entire structure is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws 4.8x25 mm. When calculating the required number of self-tapping screws, it is worth proceeding from the calculation of about 7-10 pieces per one square meter roofs.
  6. The sheets are attached to each other at a right angle, and the self-tapping screw must be directed to any place except the capillary groove. To fasten the crates to the boards, it is necessary to tighten the screws 15 mm below the wave, and the fastening step is two waves. Near the cornices, ridge and gables, the sheet fastening step is reduced to one wave. Before you tighten the self-tapping screw, you need to check whether it falls into the crate board.
  7. These operations are repeated according to the same algorithm on the entire surface of the roof slope. In the event that a metal tile is used custom sizes, they will have to be joined vertically. To do this, it is necessary to vertically compose a solid row of two elements, and lay the next row on top of it. Overlap of individual sheets vertical row should be about 10 cm.
  8. An additional board with a thickness of 10 mm more than the rest of the elements is nailed near the ridge. In order for the roof ventilation to be complete, there must be a gap of at least 8 cm between the center line of the ridge and the edge of the roofing profile. The ridge itself is attached over the metal tile, and its strips are fixed with self-tapping screws at the upper points of the profile. The overlap of the ridge strips should be more than 100 mm, and the distance between the screws can be from 30 to 80 cm.
  9. The gable bar is attached with the expectation that it should cover the top of the wave. The fastening of this plank is carried out in increments of 30-60 cm. The installation of the pediment strips is carried out from the cornice part towards the ridge with an overlap of about 5-10 cm.

Installation of valleys and pipes on the roof

After the installation of the metal tile with your own hands is completed, it remains to equip internal corners roofs:

  1. In the valleys, the required number of boards of the crate is installed (in the case of large volumes of precipitation, it is worth installing a solid crate of boards). The distance between the boards should be 20 mm.
  2. In the direction from the eaves towards the ridge, a valley gutter is laid. The width of the gutter should be about 50 cm from the center line of the valley, and the overlap of the sheets should be 20 cm.
  3. At 10 cm from the center of the valley, it is necessary to mark the lines with a marker, along which adjacent sheets are subsequently cut. A special seal is attached to the gutter.
  4. Sheets of metal tiles are cut in accordance with measurements. The trimmed metal tile is attached to the crate 25 cm from the center line of the valley. If during the cutting process uneven edges of the sheets are obtained, they should be covered with decorative elements.


To ensure passage through the roof of ventilation shafts and chimneys, it is necessary to use special aprons made of galvanized steel and having a polymer coating. These aprons are installed on the outside with a 15 cm overlap on the pipes. Sealants are used to adjoin aprons.

If it is necessary to install additional accessories, they are fastened directly to the crate, with a passage through the metal tile. All details related to the installation of accessories are usually indicated in the documentation attached to them.

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself roof is assembled from a metal tile step by step without any problems - you just need to study in detail the technology for mounting sheets and additional roofing elements, as well as perform all the necessary operations with high quality and competently.

Metal tile is a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent specifications make it a great option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, we will consider how to independently install metal tiles: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.

A tiled roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for home decoration. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:

  • low weight (4-6 kg / m²), which provides a very small load on the roof;

Differs in the democratic price, long term of operation and expressive appearance

  • simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
  • a large assortment color solutions;
  • the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
  • the coating is equipped with stiffeners, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface is able to withstand a load of 200 kg / m², even if sheets with a thickness of 0.5 mm were used;
  • The material is extremely temperature resistant. He is not afraid of any drops, and the thermal expansion index is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the shortcomings of metal tiles, with the exception, perhaps, of an increased noise level on days when it rains. But even with this it is quite possible to cope if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before starting to consider the process of installing this roofing material, it is necessary to decide how exactly the material should be used.

Viewing photos of roofs, the metal tiles on which look attractive, is far from the best method in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Consider what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

  • various types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
  • special passage units for the installation of pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
  • elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - navigation bridges, stairs, snow retainers;
  • internal and external valleys;
  • other necessary elements are wall profiles, gables, metal tile cornice strips, the installation of which is an indispensable part of the roof arrangement.

Important! The presence of all the listed elements among the seller's offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to the study of the marking, which must be present on each certified material. Usually, the production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the quality level of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied over the sheet.

So, here is what information can be gleaned by reading the information provided on the back of the metal tile sheet:

  • the presence of polymers;
  • how much zinc per 1 m² sheet;
  • date of production and the period of the warranty period for the use of the material;
  • manufacturer's name;
  • sheet thickness.

In the process of visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both from the front and from the wrong side of the sheet, as well as the presence of all mandatory markings.

Important! If we are talking about a material purchased from a major manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Considering the fact that the price of installing a metal tile has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything themselves. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and may increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a metal roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing to do if it was decided to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, to avoid unnecessary costs.

To begin with, we will clarify some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly the roof of a metal tile is arranged does not arise. If you look at the roof, which has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a "model". This name means sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. On sale you can find sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10.

Helpful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option individual production metal tiles on order. Of course, it will cost much more, but in this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing right size sheet, you need to focus on the fact that after installation, the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. At the same time, it is quite simple to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing a metal tile, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow for proper installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which should have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of acquiring metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is minimum slope, at which we allow the installation of metal tiles.

Do-it-yourself materials and tools for laying metal tiles

In order to carry out the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

  • screwdriver;
  • electric drill;
  • scissors for cutting metal;
  • yardstick;
  • hammer;
  • marker;
  • mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a ladder and means intended for individual protection of the face and hands (glasses, gloves).

As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tile, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aero roller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and boards 2.5x10 cm. itself, you will also need fasteners - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Helpful advice! To give an attractive appearance to the coating, it is worth using decorative overlays.

How to fix a metal tile: stages of preparatory work

The light weight of the metal tile allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work before proceeding to laying. And yet, you still have to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made of slats is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the step of the selected metal tile, slats are located on the surface. It is important to observe a single distance so that in the process of fixing the roofing material it is not necessary to screw the screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the batten is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place the rafters directly above the windows.

Related article:

Thermal insulation during the installation of a metal roof

When it comes to the construction of a roof made of metal, the heat-insulating material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss, as well as to reduce the noise level that raindrops produce when they hit the surface. To do this, the rafters are first laid vapor barrier material, and then a layer of thermal insulation. At the same time, it is important that the layer thickness does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached from above, fixing it with wooden bars directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sag, there will be no problems with water runoff..

Such a "pie" - the maximum efficient system thermal insulation of the roof, which is allowed by the technology of mounting metal tiles. As for the choice thermal insulation material, then there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Roofing made of metal tiles: basic rules of work

Before starting work related directly to the laying of metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will help you avoid common mistakes and do everything you need as efficiently as possible:

  1. There are two ways of laying sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each next sheet must overlap the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must overlap.
  2. Do not immediately fasten each sheet fully. Before screwing the metal tile, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and trim if necessary. For final fixing, one self-tapping screw is used, which passes through all the sheets.
  3. The service life of the entire roof is highly dependent on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, the choice of self-tapping screws must be given due attention. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
  4. In those places where several sheets were fixed at once with the help of one fastener, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it out, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules exist for the installation of others required elements without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:

  • the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the comb will fit on the pediment;
  • for the cornice strip, it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the lower bar of the crate, to which it is attached with nails;
  • between the sheet of metal and the roofing strip, it is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material;
  • for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Usually 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
  • if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aero roller between the ridge bar and the material itself. This will avoid the penetration of atmospheric precipitation under the ridge;

  • the fixation of the ridge should be made to the slats, which are located in the end part of the entire structure. In this case, the calculations should be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
  • it is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a dropper under a metal tile, and clearly follow all the instructions.

Helpful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose slope angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worthwhile to carry out calculations in advance that will determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of a ridge bar in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, it may even be necessary to completely replace the entire roofing.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge bar can be adjusted to some extent. That is, it can not be bent or unbent to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a valley with a roof with a metal tile

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected - valley. For each such element, an additional board is necessarily attached. Fastening in this case must be started from the bottom, gradually moving up and not forgetting the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, the bottom bar must be cut off. This is followed by a flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.

There is a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the mount should be located 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If you follow this technology, then as a result, the sheet, at the place of fastening, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must be started before laying the roofing material. This is important in order to further ensure that water flows directly into the additional element.

Important! All errors in the process of carrying out calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, most likely the roof will leak.

In order to cover those places where cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

  • installation must be done from the bottom up;
  • a sealant between the lining and the tiles is not needed;
  • linings must be overlapped at least 10 cm;
  • fasteners (in this case, self-tapping screws) should not provoke damage to the valley.

Very often one has to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when a skylight is being installed. In such a situation, it is imperative to put a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the sheet of metal. At the same time, the cornice cut is covered with a plank. And along the walls must be laid sealing material.

How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof, then the installation of two additional bars will definitely be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the "ridge". After that, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the crate begins. The step of the lathing for the metal tile in this case is calculated in the same way as with standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tile only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and leveling the first sheet along the eaves bar.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the "ridge" should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge nodes, you need to align the ridge bars relative to the angle of the "ridge". In the case of using a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the available angles, and special plugs are provided for a semicircular ridge. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge bar should be located strictly along the axis of the "ridge". It's not too much difficult task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different size, then the task becomes much more difficult. As an auxiliary material, bright mounting foam, which allows you to determine the quality of the junction with the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile, undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

  • extremely high level resistance of the material both to ultraviolet radiation and to other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
  • due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout the entire period of operation;
  • the material is extremely strong and hard, so that it can withstand severe loads;
  • multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
  • due to the low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the truss system is significantly reduced;
  • using this option - great savings, since there is no need to make a big step between the mounts. Initially, the Monterrey metal tile installation instructions provide for 35-centimeter steps.

There are only two disadvantages of this material - a large number of residues after laying, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying the Montreuil metal tile, the following aspects play a role here:

  • for different models of this material, it is necessary to prepare a different crate. So, for a Standard or Super metal tile, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for a Suite or Maxi, a step should be 40 cm;
  • in the most difficult places roofs (usually these are internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous crate;
  • on the junction slats, to exit the chimney, internal aprons must be installed;
  • installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
  • before installing the material must be removed protective covering, as it may not be possible to do so in the future.

It is categorically impossible to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the fact that the profile will collapse. Also, in no case should a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels be used for this purpose.

Interesting! The Cascade metal tile also looks great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But on the other hand, the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a roof covering with a metal tile

Having studied the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry it out quality styling. But in order for the material to serve for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of metal polymer material, which is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure external factors: Precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to break down, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the operational life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

  • remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
  • if we are talking about the elimination of more complex contaminants, then it is permissible to use cleaning products, but only those designed for polymer surfaces. It is strictly forbidden to use aggressive chemicals, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
  • cleaning of drains is carried out with the help of a jet of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the cornices;
  • it is possible and necessary to clear the snow, but this should be done only with the use of tools that are not capable of damaging the delicate coating.

Subject to these simple but extremely important rules, a metal tile coating can properly serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes in the process of installing a metal roof with your own hands

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes that can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such negligence can lead to additional costs for the purchase of material and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

  • installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
  • it is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of the wave, as this can cause deformation;
  • moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
  • when moving on the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
  • You can take the material only with gloves.

Taking into account these complicated rules, as well as acting in accordance with the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently make a beautiful and reliable roof.

Installation of snow retainers on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements that apply to a roof made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special designs are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure the safe removal of snow from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they contribute to the preservation of the original shape of the structure, and do not allow it to deform under the weight of icy snow. And given that its mass in some cases may exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow exerts on the roof surface should be thought out even at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. It depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G×s

In this case, Q is the load that snow exerts, G is the mass of snow on a flat roof surface, which can be found in a special table, and S is a correction factor that depends on the angle of the roof: > 25 ° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is greater than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation on the surface will definitely not linger.

In order to determine the G index, it is necessary to refer to a special table that provides information on snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow retainers on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as the basis for snow retainers, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixing is carried out in places where the roof and the load-bearing wall are connected.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the cornice strip for metal tiles, as this can lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a ramp, the length of which is large enough, then the installation of snow retainers on the metal tile must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to the installation of such a system in the event that the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow retainer is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to fix it correctly

Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems choose this option mainly. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and "royal", although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the gratings.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainers is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter, when it comes to keeping snow, but also in summer. After all, it is in the warm season that most often all kinds of repair work are carried out.

Corner snow guards for metal roofing

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget options, which at the same time effectively prevents snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will fit the existing metal tile, since the range of colors is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow retainers on the roof of the roof with metal tiles, self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners. Fastening is made on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. The metal tile is perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with the choice and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in a metal tile

It is believed that the installation of skylights is not a task for beginners, and this issue is best addressed to specialists who have proper experience in this field. But this does not mean at all that it is unrealistic to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well pass without any problems.

First of all, you should pay attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter pitch is very small, two small windows are installed in adjacent niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing "pie" is completely made, then you need to install mounting bar, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are mounted. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation penetration into the house.

Of course, it is necessary to make some changes in the process of mounting the crate under the metal tile, and pay special attention to the issue of mounting the ridge of the metal tile, if planned. skylight. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instruction for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to fix a metal tile on a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as the recommendations of experts, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve you well for many years.

Metal tile is a modern roofing material that successfully combines the attractive appearance of ceramic tiles with light weight and inexpensive price. metal coatings. Its advantages are considered good performance, corrosion resistance and long service life. It is important that, knowing the features of this material and having basic building skills, you can easily cover the roof with metal tiles on your own. Do-it-yourself installation of a metal tile is reminiscent of the process of creating a multilayer cake, the components of which improve and complement each other. In this article, we will describe step by step the proven "recipe" by which a reliable, quality roofing from a metal profile.

Laying metal tiles with your own hands is a proven way to quickly and inexpensively cover the roof of a garage, garden or small residential building. This roofing is one of the varieties metal profile, which has a wavy relief that resembles the shape of a traditional tile. The metal tile is made of galvanized steel, which is coated with a polymer coating of pural, plastisol or polyester during the production process. Roofing from this material has the following advantages:

  • A light weight. One square meter of metal roofing weighs 3.5-4.5 kg, which allows you to increase the step between the elements of the truss frame, reducing the cost of building a roof.
  • Mechanical strength. The roof of this material has high strength and bearing capacity, so it can easily withstand snow and wind loads, even if the step between the rafters is large enough.
  • Corrosion resistance. Roofing from a metal profile is not exposed to the destructive effects of corrosion, because it is reliably protected by a zinc layer and a polymer coating.
  • Long service life. Do-it-yourself metal tile roof has been serving for more than 20 years, thanks to high quality metal and strength of polymer protection.

Important! Knowing how to cover the roof with metal tiles yourself, you can save a lot, because installing a roofing costs as much as 50-70% of the cost of purchasing materials.

The composition of the roofing cake

Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles consists in creating a multi-layer roofing pie, which consists of a vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing and the coating itself. In order for a metal profile roof to last for a long time, it is worth choosing the right structural components that are suitable for each other and following the rules that the installation instructions prescribe. Roofing cake for metal tiles consists of the following parts:

  1. Vapor barrier. This is the name of a film that allows steam to pass through, but blocks water and condensate, protecting the insulation from getting wet. The vapor barrier must be laid on the lower surface of the rafters and fixed with a construction stapler.
  2. Rafter legs. To cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the step between the rafters and install them evenly on the ridge run and Mauerlat. The strength and load bearing capacity roofs.
  3. Thermal insulation. The installation of thermal insulation is carried out between the rafter legs of the frame, so the step between them must correspond to the width of the insulation.
  4. Waterproofing. Waterproofing must be laid over the rafters so that it protects the wooden frame elements from condensation or atmospheric moisture.
  5. Crate. This element of the truss frame is used to distribute the weight of the roofing material. Roofing material must be laid on the crate. The step between its slats is chosen in accordance with the weight of the coating and the angle of inclination of the slope.
  6. Roofing material. Do-it-yourself metal tiles are laid on the crate. For fixing use special roofing screws.

Please note that there are 2 types of metal roofing - warm and cold. cold roof differs from the warm one in the absence of a thermal insulation layer and vapor barrier in the composition of the roofing cake. This design is cheaper, but can only be used in cases where the attic or second floor is not heated.

Rafter frame and crate

Before covering the roof with metal tiles, it is necessary to assemble the truss frame. The frame is a kind of supporting skeleton of the structure, which supports its geometry, and also distributes and transfers the weight of the roof to the foundation of the structure. It is made from wood conifers impregnated with an antiseptic and flame retardant, or metal. metal rafter system it costs more, but can withstand heavy loads, so you can increase the step between the elements. The roof frame is assembled in the following sequence:

  1. First of all, the Mauerlat is installed. The support beam is laid on the upper trim of the house, secured with metal studs embedded in concrete or anchor bolts. Mauerlat is made from a bar with a section of 150x150 mm and is mounted on the walls on which the roof slopes will rest. How many slopes are at the roof - so many support bars are needed.
  2. Then puffs are installed that connect the Mauerlat in increments of 1-1.2 meters. Puffs are made from a bar 100x100 mm or 100x150 mm.
  3. Vertical racks are installed in the middle of each puff in increments of 1-1.2 m. In order for them to stand vertically, they are supported with temporary slopes.
  4. On top of the racks you need to lay the ridge run. This is the name of the timber that forms, the rafter legs will rest on it.
  5. Next, it is necessary to mount the rafter legs of the frame in increments of 0.6-1.2 m. The step between the rafters depends on how much the roofing weighs, the section of the element and the width of the insulation.
  6. The rafters must be covered with waterproofing to protect against condensation and atmospheric moisture. It is worth laying the film "in sag" so that it does not tear under the pressure of water.
  7. Lastly, you need to mount a crate of slats with a section of 30x30 mm or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. The step between the elements of the crate is chosen in accordance with the weight of the roofing material and how many degrees the angle between the surface of the slope and the base of the roof is. The flatter the roof, the denser the crate should be, and the smaller the step between the rivers.

Important! It is possible to cover the roof with a metal tile, regardless of its design. The minimum recommended slope for this type of roofing material is 12-15 degrees. If the roof is flatter, then the installation is carried out with the obligatory processing of the joints with a sealant to prevent leaks.

Insulation

Before laying a metal tile, you should take care of protecting the wooden frame elements from steam, condensation and moisture. metal roof coverings they have high thermal conductivity, so they heat up quickly, but they also give off heat easily, so they need to be insulated. In the process of erecting a roof from a metal tile, 3 types of insulation are installed:

  • Vapor barrier. The instructions for laying the metal profile prescribe the mandatory installation of a vapor barrier on the lower surface of the rafter legs. This role is played by special membranes that allow air to pass through, but block water, preventing the insulation from getting wet. After all, with an increase in the humidity of the thermal insulation material by only 5%, its effectiveness is halved and does not recover after drying.
  • Thermal insulation. Insulation is laid between the rafters to keep the temperature in the house. It protects from cold air in winter and prevents heating of the under-roof space from the hot roof in summer. Mineral wool, ecowool, glass wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam are used as insulation. How many layers of insulation are needed to protect the house from freezing is calculated in accordance with climatic conditions.
  • Waterproofing. A waterproofing material that protects the rafter frame and insulation from moisture ingress is laid on top of the rafter legs. Strips of film or diffuse membrane are mounted in overlapping strips to prevent water from flowing between them.

Experienced craftsmen say that it is impossible to cover the roof with metal tiles without using all three types of insulation in a complex way. Only by working in a complex, insulation, vapor barrier, and waterproofing become effective.

flooring cover

Instructions on how to properly lay a metal tile are popular with inexperienced craftsmen. To work with this unpretentious roofing material no special skills or complicated tools are required. The laying of the coating is carried out using roofing screws, a screwdriver, building level and sealant and a circular saw with a disc for metal. The process of laying a metal profile is as follows:

  1. Before laying the metal tile, the sheets are first cut. To simplify this task, you can purchase a metal tile, the length of the sheet of which corresponds to the size of the slope, then there will be no horizontal joints during laying, and you will not have to cut the material. In other cases, to cut the coating to size, use circular saw or electric jigsaw.
  2. Then the metal tile is laid. The bottom row is laid out first, starting from the edge of the slope. An overlap of 10-23 cm or 1-2 waves is made between the sheets. The flatter the roof, the greater the overlap.
  3. The joints between the sheets can be treated with a silicone-based sealant to prevent leaks.
  4. Each sheet of metal tile is fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws, equipped with a wide press washer, which closes the mounting hole from water penetration.
  5. After laying the coating, the ridge, ends, slope cornices are formed with the help of additional elements, and drainage elements are installed.

Important! Knowing how to properly lay metal tiles, without resorting to the services of a professional team of builders, you can significantly reduce construction costs. To cope with the roofing of this practical and lightweight material can be two in 3-5 days.

Video instruction