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» Make an additional window in a wooden house. How to install windows in a log house. Advantages and disadvantages of PVC structures

Make an additional window in a wooden house. How to install windows in a log house. Advantages and disadvantages of PVC structures

Wooden windows are making a comeback residential buildings. PVC, for all its advantages, does not “breathe”. And you can put exactly the same double-glazed window into a wooden frame, and equip the window with an opening mechanism in two planes. In addition, a PVC window, which can last as long as wood, turns out to be much more expensive. But in older houses, window openings often turn out to be warped, and the work of installing custom windows is expensive because of this. However, if you have basic carpenter skills, installation wooden windows with your own hands is a completely feasible task for you. Next we will describe how to do this in buildings of various types.

Opening: cleaning, measurements, preparation

What's up there?

First of all, if the house is made of stone, we knock down the slopes and plaster along the top of the window opening. Purpose: to find out whether there is a lintel or section in the opening load-bearing wall lies simply on the window casing; This is a common construction hack.

If the house is made of stone and there is no lintel, alas, you cannot continue to work, but you need to consult with the builders about correcting the defect. Living in such a house is simply dangerous, especially if it has two or more floors. But do not be alarmed if in a very old house there is a castle made of bricks or stone instead of a lintel: this is in the order of things, it is quite reliable, and work can continue. Also, in block houses, as a rule, there are no lintels: reinforced concrete slab monoliths are already made using reinforced concrete concrete with window openings.

As for wooden houses, then they are either assembled on a frame or made by a log house. In them, window openings either do not carry loads at all, or are lightly loaded, and you don’t have to think much about the lintel.

Mortgages

Now you need to knock down the slopes around the entire perimeter of the window, inside and outside, and remove the window sill. If a quarter is provided in the opening - the flow of masonry from the outside onto the opening, this is very good. But now we need to check the presence and condition of the mortgages: embedded in the masonry wall wooden beams specifically for window installation.

If the mortgages are in place, we check their condition: we stick an ordinary shoe awl into the tree a third of the length of the rod and pull it back. If it doesn’t go in a third of the way when pressed by hand, or it’s impossible to pull it back out without swinging or grabbing the rod with pliers, that’s good, the mortgages are strong. If not, they will have to be replaced.

What if there are no mortgages at all? It’s also okay to insert wooden windows into the openings in stone wall it is possible without them.

Measurements

The window opening, cleaned before laying (or before casing in a wooden house), must be carefully measured. If you plan to replace several windows, clean and measure all openings. The goal is to determine the configuration of the opening, and from it - the dimensions of the new window.

Even a house built by the most conscientious builders shrinks over time, and it is never absolutely uniform. The new window should be slightly smaller than the rectangle inscribed in the opening. The gaps that must be maintained are indicated in the figure: 15-25 mm on the sides and top and 40-60 mm at the bottom.

Measurements must be made based on true horizontal and vertical lines. Without unnecessary hassle it is done with a laser tape measure. If it is not there, on the wall above the opening we draw a horizontal line along the level, and on the side along the same level or plumb line - a vertical line.

To guarantee, you can cut off the second horizontal line at the bottom, the second vertical line on the other side, and measure the diagonals of the resulting rectangle. If they are equal, everything is in order, the measurements will be accurate. You can now order windows using them.

How to fix windows?

Before ordering or making windows yourself (see below), you need to decide how the windows will be attached and how they will open. In a wooden house there is no choice regarding the method of fastening: through the frame to the casing.

If in a stone house in window openings Mortgages are provided, but the opening itself is not very good, so fix it here too the better the same way. The selection criterion will be the difference in the length of the diagonals of the clean opening: if it is no more than 10 mm per 1 m of diagonal length, we fasten it through. If it turns out more, you need to attach it to the wall with anchors.

For example: the opening size is 90x120 cm. The estimated diagonal length is 150 cm (according to the rule for a rectangle). The actual lengths of the diagonals are 1507 and 1494 mm. The spread is 14 mm, and at 1.5 m 15 mm is acceptable. Can be fastened through.

In an apartment in an old, damp block reinforced concrete building (in Khrushchev) there is also no choice: only anchors to the wall. In block houses, they do not make mortgages for windows. But in a block house with a technical floor or attic, you can also fasten it through.

How will the window open?

If the window opening allows through fastening, the window opening mechanism can be anything, even when hung on anchors. If you decide to fasten with anchors due to a skewed opening, then it is better to limit yourself to opening in one plane: swing doors, one swing sash, folding or tilting sash or horizontally pivoting sash.

The fact is that a wooden frame can warp due to uneven load. Very slanted window openings indicate that the building is shrinking unevenly. Fastenings through the frame are rigid connections between the window and the wall, and the opening mechanism in two planes can jam due to a much smaller distortion of the frame than a simple one.

How long (“thickness”) does the frame need?

The length (“thickness”) of the frame must be such that the so-called dew point is between the glass panes. Simply put, fogging up the interior glass is unacceptable. Approximately, the length of the frame in centimeters can be equated to the annual average subzero temperature in degrees of the coldest month (January - February) in your area, but in any case no less than 12 cm and no more than 22 cm.

If the length of the frame is more than 22 cm, you need to provide additional thermal insulation in the opening during installation, or triple glazing, as is done in the Far North. There is no point in installing a thin double-glazed window into a long frame: then it is better to install traditional glass with glazing beads and putty. But you can install two thin double-glazed windows: you get four-fold glazing, and you don’t have to think about the dew point at all. True, it will cost a lot of money.

It is also necessary to coordinate the length of the frame with the thickness of the wall: internal slope must be at least 17 cm; external - at least 10 cm. If the masonry of the opening is with a quarter, and this does not allow making the internal slope of the required width, then the frame can be made shorter: the quarter itself already provides additional insulation.

Installation of wooden windows in stone and concrete

Do-it-yourself installation of wooden windows in the openings of stone and block houses of various types begins with. It is better to make a cement pad under it and level its surface to a horizontal plane. An attached (hanging) window sill, installed after installing the window, does not make the work any easier, but it holds much less firmly, especially if the walls are thin. Window sill thickness 30-50 mm; if the window sill board is thicker, the lower gap in the opening must be increased in advance by reducing the height of the window.

The window sill is nailed with three or four nails to the bottom mortgage or with 6 mm mounting nails (dowel nails) to the stone. In the latter case, before installation, it is necessary to drill mounting holes in the window sill with a diameter of 3/4 of the nail diameter, mark the locations for holes in the wall for mounting nail sleeves along them, drill holes and drive the sleeves into them. Three holes in a row with a distance of 150-200 mm from the edges of the opening are enough. The outer edge of the window sill board should be flush with the outer edge of the frame. The distance of the row of fastening holes from the outer edge of the board is one and a half of its thickness.

Note: if fastening with anchors is intended (see below), then the window sill is not installed in advance - it will interfere. I'll have to suffer later.

Then, if the masonry has a quarter, roofing felt or polyurethane foam insulation is applied to the inside of the quarter. The insulation can be laid on construction silicone: there will be no load on it, and then it will be pressed against the window frame, so there is no point in fiddling with fasteners.

Option 1: a good opening in a good wall

If the opening is “completely rectangular” and the house is dry block or made of sand-lime brick, then it is advisable to install the window in the simplest and cheapest way: on blocks. Mounting pads are simply pieces of boards or slats as thick as the gap between the frame and the wall and 120-150 mm wide. One wide edge of each block is slightly bent to a wedge, not to the point.

Location of window pads various types shown in the figure. First, the support blocks are installed; then - spacers. The horizontality of the frame crossbars is continuously controlled by a level, and the verticality of the sidewalls by a plumb line. The pads should not fit very tightly; It is necessary that any block can be pulled out with your fingers. If necessary, the pads can be trimmed or a layer of wood can be removed with coarse sandpaper.

After leveling the frame, the pads are removed one at a time, starting with the spacers; Construction silicone is applied to the places under them, both on the frame and on the wall, and the block is put back. Drips and deposits of silicone from the outside are immediately removed with a rag moistened with table vinegar.

After the silicone hardens, the gap is blown out construction foam. How to blow out the gap between the frame and the wall is described below. At the end, the foam swells are cut off with a mounting knife, slopes are made, sashes with glass are installed - that’s it, the window is ready.

Note: if you are sure that you will never have a hurricane, you can do without silicone and blow it out with foam right away. But the foam is not designed to bear the load, and watching the wind squeeze out the window just when there is no way to repair it is a relative pleasure.

Option 2: a good opening in an unimportant wall

If the house is from ceramic bricks, cinder block, shell rock, etc. weak material, but dry, and the opening is impeccable, it is advisable to install the window with a fastening through and through. To do this, first of all, holes are drilled in the frame for fasteners: mounting nails with a diameter of 6 mm; hole diameter – 5 mm. The length of the nail-dowel should be 80 mm + gap width + frame thickness. For example, if the frame is made of magpie timber and the gap is 20 mm, then the length of the nails is 140 mm.

There should be 3 holes per side of the frame up to 1.5 m long: two with a distance of 150-200 mm from the corners; the third is in the middle. In frame elements more than 1.5 m long, 4 holes are drilled: two extreme ones with the same distance from the corners, the rest - evenly along the length. For very long or high frames, the spacing between mounting holes should be no more than 600 mm.

Then the frame is placed in the opening, leveled with blocks, as already described, and on the wall, through the holes in the frame, places for holes for the nail sleeves are marked. The holes for the sleeves are drilled by removing the frame, according to the diameter of the sleeve and the depth of its length + 30 mm for dust and crumbs. There is no need to drill holes in the window sill: the frame is simply nailed to it with ordinary nails.

Attention! The holes for fasteners must not go through the pads. If any of them landed on the block, it needs to be moved.

After drilling, the sleeves are driven into the holes, the frame is placed again and, without removing the pads, they are secured with nails. Then they take out the pads, fill the cracks with foam, make slopes and install the sashes. This completes the installation.

Note: if the pads had to be adjusted, they are marked at the ends before being removed. When installing in a skewed opening, this must be done.

Option 3: oblique opening in any wall

Wooden windows can only be securely placed in a skewed opening using anchors - metal strips with holes. You can make the anchors yourself from strips of tin or galvanized steel, but it’s not worth the trouble: the price of factory anchors is a pittance, but working with them is much more convenient.

The anchors are attached to the ends with self-tapping screws along the outer perimeter of the frame so that they stick out inward. These “tails” will then disappear under the slopes. The number and location of anchors is the same as the holes for through fastening.

Note: It is often advised to first attach small intermediate fastening strips to the frame, and then use them to secure the frame to the anchors. This is justified when professional construction large volume: one worker quickly, without losing the rhythm, attaches anchors to the empty openings, and then two, also without losing the rhythm, push in and screw the windows. When installing one or several windows yourself, there is no point in spending money on extra fasteners.

The frame with anchors is pushed into place into the opening and leveled with blocks (do not forget about the level with plumb lines - the opening is slanted!). Then a drill hole is marked on the wall through the holes of the anchors, the anchors are bent, holes are drilled for dowel-nails, the anchors are bent back and secured with dowel-nails.

After this, you MUST remove the pads; the window frame must hang in the opening on anchors. An oblique opening indicates either the negligence of the builders, or the natural uneven shrinkage of the building, so there should be no rigid connections between the window frame and the walls.

Finally, the gap is filled with foam (in a slanting opening the window sill will be hanging - nothing can be done) and, as always, the sashes are installed.

Note: Sometimes there is advice - to level the opening with a cement screed. Martyshkin's work. No screed will stop uneven shrinkage. Even the most notorious schemers still do not lay homemade crooked bricks. The carelessness of the builders, which led to uneven shrinkage, was hidden even during the design. But uneven shrinkage can begin later, when the properties of the soil change, even if the project has been completed in good faith.

How to blow out a crack with foam

To blow foam into the gap between the frame and the wall, you need to buy or rent a foam gun. The gap is blown in two or three passes with thin “sausages” from the middle inward, and then in the same way, in several passes, from the middle outward. Only with this blowing method will the pressure from the foam swelling during hardening be distributed evenly around the perimeter of the frame and will not move it.

Wooden window in wood

In a wooden house, installing windows comes down to planting them in a casing on liquid nails. For strength, you can grab it through with nails or screws. The cracks inside and outside and holes with fastener heads are sealed with the same irreplaceable liquid nails, and platbands are attached to them. But the platbands also need to be strengthened additionally, with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws - there is wind outside.

What to do if the casing is oblique or not the right size? In this case, the casing needs to be adjusted to size and leveled. This is done with beams, planks or slats on liquid nails. For leveling, the necessary ones are driven, as far as necessary, onto a wedge - onto jointer, a small circular saw with a toothed circle or by hand, a hacksaw for metal (yes, yes - you need a very fine tooth so that you can cut the fibers obliquely) or a bow saw or plane. The latter, of course, requires the working skills of a carpenter.

About fixed windows

Windows are ready-made for installation in homes. Do good and beautiful window- a difficult task even for an experienced carpenter. But sometimes - in the attic, in the barn, in the garage or in the country house - you need to do a small blind window. You can make such a window yourself by making a frame from beams and slats.

What the profile of the window frame should be can be seen in the figure. Note the highlighted protrusions at the bottom that are the lightest. These are teardroppers. Their purpose is to prevent water from flowing into the frame. They must be made on the lower cross member of the frame, but in no case should they be done on the top: there they will turn into moisture traps. But they are useless on the sides.

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So, now you know how to install a wooden window in any window opening of any building. As you can see, the work itself is not complicated or difficult, but it requires preliminary consideration of many different factors, and when performing it, intelligence and accuracy.

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Installing windows in a log house has a number of features. First of all, before installation, you need to wait for the wooden house to shrink, which lasts 6-18 months depending on the design of the building, the area and weight of the structure, the type of soil on plot of land. Due to the shrinkage of the log frame, window structures become deformed and crack. In addition, a log house that continues to shrink will simply crush the installed structures. Read more about the process of shrinking a wooden house.

Specifics of installing windows in a wooden house

To prevent the frames from warping, you need to make a casing box or frame. Installation of such a box requires precise measurements, care in manufacturing and installation. Incorrectly assembled and installed structure will lead to frame distortion and log walls. This will make it worse appearance buildings, and heat will escape through the cracks and penetrate cold air, moisture and wind.

Correctly selected window opening dimensions are the key to successful window installation in the house. Optimal distance from the floor to the window sill is 80-90 cm. As a rule, the window sill is made slightly higher than the tabletop. When installing, carefully monitor the size of the openings. Let's look at how to properly make a casing and install windows in a wooden house.

window frame

Windows in a log house cannot be attached directly to the ends of the opening. Otherwise, the blocks are deformed due to shrinkage. To avoid this, make a piping or casing of the opening. It strengthens the ends and does not interfere with the functionality of the structures and prevents the crowns from moving.

Window trimming is done in two ways depending on the type of windows (plastic or regular). For wooden structures the block is made from bars and used interventional insulation from linen or jute. Wooden windows are more environmentally friendly. In addition, they will fit better into a log house. For plastic structures(PVC) the comb is cut out and a carriage with grooves is put on. Polyurethane foam is used as insulation. Such windows are more airtight.

Window box for log houses made from wood with 10-12% moisture content. With less humidity, internal cracks appear. A simple design is used for windows made of natural materials. And making an opening for plastic products requires special care and a more complex casing option.

When fitting, a shrinkage gap of up to 7% of the opening height is made between the top element of the box and the log part of the house. It will protect window and door blocks from log pressure and deformation.

Which windows to choose: plastic or wooden

Today, many owners of country houses choose installations made of wood. Designs made from natural materials preserve environmental cleanliness, safety and atmosphere log house. Wooden windows are characterized by a pleasant forest aroma and attractive appearance, resistance to frost and temperature changes.

This material “breathes” and maintains a comfortable humidity level in the room. Among the disadvantages, one can note the high cost of products. In addition, wood must be periodically treated with antiseptics to protect living material from negative impact moisture.

Some people prefer to install plastic windows in a log house. Plastic is more affordable cheap material, which characterizes a long service life and good thermal insulation, wide choice of colors. Plastic products do not require special care and treatment, but they heat up when exposed to strong sunlight.

Plastic windows highlight harmful substances and have unpleasant smell. They attract dust and do not allow moisture to pass through, so a greenhouse effect may occur in the room.

If for a cottage you can still choose between plastic and wooden windows, then for a bath it is necessary to use windows exclusively made of wood. The wood does not heat up and does not burn the skin, and does not interfere with the healing effect of the bath. Interesting projects baths, country cottages and country houses you will find at the link http://marisrub.ru/proekts/all-proekts.

Installation of wooden windows

The frame for ordinary windows is made using a groove in the logs adjacent to the opening, into which a block is inserted. The block becomes one of the sides of the window block. First, insert the bottom one, then the two side ones, and finally the top one. Inter-crown sealant is placed in the grooves and shrinkage gap.

The seal provides heat and sound insulation, protects the wood from dampness and insects. Sometimes polyurethane foam is used as insulation, but it is completely unsuitable for a wooden house. The foam firmly adheres to the logs and interferes natural shrinkage. It is better to choose natural flax and jute.

Finally, the shrinkage gap is closed and decorated using fillets and casing. They will give the window a finished look and make the decor aesthetically pleasing. Products can be of any shapes and sizes, colors and shades, with carvings and patterns.

Installation of plastic windows

Installation of casing for plastic windowslabor-intensive process, as it requires cutting out the ridge and installing a carriage. It is along the carriage that the logs will settle. It must be taken into account that the opening should be 13-15 cm larger than the window frame.

Holes and grooves are filled polyurethane foam, then covered with mounting tape. The hermetically sealed connection will not let the cold into the room and will ensure the necessary moisture exchange. Finishing is done using plastic slopes and window sills.

Installing windows in a wooden house is a labor-intensive process that requires a sequence of actions, accuracy and care. Improper installation of the window frame will lead to serious problems. These include frequent drafts and creaks, jammed doors and locks, skewed openings and walls.

To avoid such troubles, entrust the work to the masters of the MariSrub company. They will manufacture and install blocks, insulate openings around the perimeter using thermal insulation materials and vapor barrier film. This will protect against the penetration of wind, cold and excess moisture in the room.

Installing windows yourself will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything correctly, otherwise the savings will be questionable. Wooden houses have their own characteristics that you should be aware of.

Possible problems if windows are installed incorrectly

It is advisable to adequately assess your strengths in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

    • lack of casing - a house made of timber “walks” during shrinkage and begins to put pressure on the window frames;
    • using polyurethane foam in the shrinkage gap between the top of the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very hard and will transfer pressure from the upper beams to the window frame, negating the functions of the casing;

    • incorrect calculation of the dimensions of the plastic window frame - without taking into account the installation gap, you will have to expand the window opening;

    • there is too much gap between the frame and the wall - if you simply foam such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
    • lack of external protection of the installation gap - foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, with outside it is better to close the gap with PSUL tape, which protects the foam from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

    • lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in insulating properties;

    • placing a window in a “cold zone” causes freezing of slopes and the formation of condensation with inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save money and order window installation. For an experienced builder, DIY installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that plastic window manufacturers don't talk about

Tightness and high sound insulation plastic double glazed windows presented as a definite advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in residential premises is constantly increasing, and thanks to unsealed wooden frames, a constant influx of moisture is ensured. fresh air. Of course too much large gaps They can make the house very cold, so Euro-windows have long become a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One option is to do forced ventilation. But in the absence of ventilation holes, this can be problematic - a lot will have to be redone.

It is for such cases that window supply valves were invented - special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and screw the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for owners of wooden houses is that companies that install plastic windows often do not provide a guarantee for their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. So, even if all installation rules are followed, you may find that after a few years the windows no longer open. But you won’t be able to sharpen plastic with a file.

Manufacturing of casing (plugs)

The first thing the installation of windows begins with is the installation of the casing. But is it always necessary and how to do it correctly?

When can you do without a joint?

A new wooden house made of logs or beams will shrink in any case. And no one has canceled seasonal soil heaving. In this case, the casing is required - it will protect the window from distortions, torsion or bends.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - edged board 50 mm thick and edged timber 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in a frame house you don’t have to make a frame - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. Some builders also do not install a casing in a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind, it’s better to do it in your home; this process is not that complicated.

How to make casing correctly

The last option is the most labor-intensive, but also the most reliable. If you have any doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to casing it into an embedded block. For this:

    • IN window opening, in the middle of the timber, two vertical grooves measuring 5x5 cm are selected. This can be done with either a chainsaw or a hand-held circular saw, a chisel and an ax. The second option is preferable if your hand is not full for precise work chainsaw.

    • An edged board is laid on top of the embedding block and secured flush with self-tapping screws - two at the top and bottom. To do this, pre-drill a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the screw head.
    • If the “tenon-monolith” casing option is chosen, then the pre-cut T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and also screwed with self-tapping screws.
    • Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the 5 cm thick top laid on them is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrinkage gap.
    • The top should fit into the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in a horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle.
    • The insulation is placed in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside - windproof membrane. Under no circumstances should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-proof films - accumulated condensation will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how casing is done “into the deck”:

When the frame is ready, you can proceed directly to installing double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows itself is not very complicated, but requires strict adherence to technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense and the frame will warp.

Checking the delivered glass unit

Under no circumstances should this moment be neglected! First, the dimensions of the window opening and glass unit are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a support profile (clover) of 3 cm. Thus, the gap at the top will be 1 cm. The clover must be included in the kit, and under You need to leave room for it when designing the window. It is needed so that a window sill can be installed from the inside, and the ebb can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, you must also check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often “lost” because windows are shipped without them. But dowels are special fasteners that you need to select yourself.

Their length should be such that when fully screwed in, they only reach the middle of the casing board. And this is taking into account the gap. If the dowel is screwed into the wall of a wooden house, the window will begin to deform regardless of the presence of the frame.

Often they do not pay attention to small elements - decorative trims, fittings and drainage holes. They will also have to be counted. But the window sill and sill need to be ordered - if you forget to specify their necessity, you may find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glass themselves - their presence can only be seen by disassembling the double-glazed window.

They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. Wedges are convenient because thanks to them different sizes You can align the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge of the required thickness under the corners and posts.

Disassembly and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished glass unit is delivered in assembled form. But to install it, you will have to disassemble everything down to the frame. For this:

    • when closed, use a special key to remove the upper pins holding the swinging sash;
    • the window handle is inserted, the sash is opened and removed from the lower fastenings;
    • the glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and the double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and an ordinary knife;
    • you need to remember or mark the right and left glazing beads;
    • With outside the protective film is removed - under the influence of the sun it will not come off in a few months;
    • external elements are installed - mosquito net holders and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
    • holes are drilled for the dowels - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

Once the preliminary preparation is completed, you can proceed directly to installation.

Installation of frame and assembly of plastic windows

First, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, with temporary jibs nailed on the outside. But it’s much easier to do everything with an assistant - he simply holds the frame until it is leveled and screwed to the casing. Installing the frame also requires following the correct sequence:

    1. The bottom edge is leveled - laser level in this regard it is more convenient. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack to achieve a perfectly level position. Even minimal distortion will create problems during operation.
    2. Side spacers are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If the width of the window frame is too small and literally “falls out” of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

    1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Don’t forget that it needs to be installed in a “warm” zone - for wooden walls without external insulation, this is clearly in the middle.
    2. Once the frame is level, you can begin attaching it, starting with the side posts. First, holes are drilled in the wood through those already made in the frame, and then dowels are attached. First the top and bottom, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
    3. Once the frame is fixed, the flashing is attached to the outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The ebb is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed with two self-tapping screws along the edges, and the gap under it is filled with polyurethane foam.

    1. Decorative overlays are placed on the sash fastening elements. The lower ones are put on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

    1. Double-glazed windows are placed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the emphasis on the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

    1. The installation seam is foamed around the perimeter.
    2. A window sill is being installed. To do this, a finished window sill is placed on the window sill beam, and wedges are placed under it to level it. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are coated with sealant, and free place foams between the wedges. The window sill is placed again, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

  1. In some cases, they do the opposite - first they install the window sill, check it for level and screw it to the casing with dowels. And only then a double-glazed window is placed on top of it. In this case, there is no need to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the window sill material must withstand the action external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting wooden element.

Once the polyurethane foam has hardened, you can begin finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The easiest option that even girls can handle is to close them plastic panels. For this you will need:

  • L-shaped or starting profile– it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
  • decorative plastic corner - it covers the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed with self-tapping screws;
  • the plastic lining itself for the slopes.

And you don’t even need to foam anything. But to provide the necessary protection assembly seam And good insulation, you should lay insulation between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. On the outside, the seam is covered with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And in order for the windows to delight you with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being pulled away by birds. You don’t need to restrain your soul’s impulses if you want to start doing something. with my own hands. And everything will definitely work out!

A house built of wood undergoes certain changes throughout its operation. It can dry out, shrink and return to its previous parameters. This feature does not allow windows and doors to be tightly secured in the opening, as is done in structures made of concrete and brick. To insert frames into the openings, frames are made for windows in a wooden house. It is also called the casing or window frame to which the frame or door is attached.

What is a wooden window casing?

On modern construction market V Lately Often there are houses made of logs, panels or timber. These are baths and country houses, and country houses. Despite the fact that new technologies make it possible to create innovative building materials, environmentally pure wood remains in demand. In addition, such structures have a beautiful appearance.

A feature of wooden buildings, which is called shrinkage, occurs under the influence of temperature factors. Wood can absorb water and dry out over time. The most vulnerable modules of the house are windows and doors, or rather, their openings. Such building movements can impair their functionality or lead to complete destruction. To avoid this, a special technology for their installation is used, in which a window frame is inserted into the opening. It is a wooden box made in a special way.

The technology for installing windows in wooden houses involves installing a frame

The casing includes: a window sill board, a top and two sidewalls. The boards used for its manufacture are about 25 cm in size. Choose a material that has a moisture content of approximately 10%. You should not take drier wood, as it may have cracks invisible to the eye, as a result of which it will begin to collapse as the building shrinks.

Classification of types of casing for wooden structures

Experts classify structures into several types, taking into account different signs.


The cheapest and easiest way to construct a casing is an embedded block

Depending on the shape of the casing, they are divided into:

  • Casing "mortgage block". This is the most inexpensive type of pigtail. From regular board, the thickness of which is 30-50 mm, a box is made. A groove for the beam is cut from inside the opening. This simple design is very quickly assembled, but it is worth remembering that, having chosen it, you will have to finish the slopes after installing the window.
  • U-shaped, they are also called “in the deck”. This classic look is made by cutting a tenon into the end of the wall onto which the vertical elements of the frame are installed. The frame moves along them as it shrinks. This design allows you to relieve the load on window and door openings and allows the frames inserted into them to function correctly. The pigtail is impregnated with an antiseptic solution and insulated between the tenon and groove. To prevent drafts, a wind lock is made under the window sill. Above top part casings are laid with soft insulation.
  • T-shaped casing or, as it is also called, “spike”. A groove is cut in the end part of the opening, the side parts of the box are made with a T-shaped profile. On the casing risers, you need to glue bars that provide stiffening ribs that hold the casing in a certain shape. When making this type of box, you must strictly adhere to the technology. Do not fasten the bars with nails or self-tapping screws, this will affect the freezing of the opening. Be sure to treat the wood with an antiseptic and insulate the seams with a special material.

The type of pigtail and installation method are selected in accordance with the structural features

The type of casing is chosen depending on the structure. A professional will tell you which one is best to do in a particular case.

In addition to the listed types, builders distinguish the following types of casing:

  • Draft. This type is inexpensive and suitable for buildings whose openings will be finished in the future.
  • Finishing. If you choose this option, you will not have to finish the slopes in the future.
  • Eurosurface. This type will require additional finishing of the slopes. A special feature is the use of adhesive material made from solid pine slats.
  • Power. Experts recommend using this option in an arched opening, and also use it for panoramic windows, balcony blocks.
  • Arched. This option is used to strengthen arches. They make it like solid wood, and from glued timber. The cost will depend on the type of material from which the casing is made.
  • Combined. When using this type of frame, you need to know that the base of the box is made of coniferous species wood, and the top layer is glued from oak, pine or beech board. This casing option is more expensive.

Purpose of casing in the construction of wooden structures

Such an element is mandatory in the design of the entire house. Its absence leads to the fact that the window opening can completely collapse under the influence of shrinkage of the house. In addition, if the wood dries out significantly, cracks and gaps will appear between the frames and the wall of the building, which will lead to large heat loss and drafts.

It is very important to use a socket if there is a small distance between the windows. A design made according to all the rules will become a decoration for your wooden house.


The window frame protects the window opening from destruction when the house shrinks

Please note that casing for a wooden window is not always suitable for PVC frames. If you decide to replace old wooden windows in a wooden house with plastic frames, you need to pay attention to the frame during dismantling. If it is not suitable for a new plastic window, then it must be dismantled and a new one installed, carefully following the technology.

Properly installed frames made of PVC material will serve you for a long period of time. And if you choose the color of the film covering the plastic structure, which resembles natural wood, this will allow the products to look harmonious, combining with the entire wooden structure.

Making a pigtail with your own hands

Before you create a casing with your own hands, you need to prepare the tools for work:

  • jigsaw;
  • sander;
  • drill;
  • chainsaw;
  • screwdriver

First and important point is the choice of window design (plastic double-glazed windows or wooden windows), the choice of casing depends on this. If plastic frames are installed, a support threshold will be required. At wooden version windows do not need such a threshold.

On the sides of the opening you need to cut a groove for the timber, which will protect the logs from moving out. In this way, you get a kind of runners along which the logs slide without putting pressure on the window.


The upper part of the casing is installed last

Installation is performed as follows:

  • the lower part is being installed;
  • side elements are attached;
  • Finally, the upper part is attached.

A gap is left between the top of the frame and the opening to compensate for the shrinkage of the structure. Insulation material is laid along the perimeter between the casing and the wall. You should not use polyurethane foam when installing the pigtail..

Having finished installing the box, proceed to installing the frame. If the frame is plastic, then you need to cut out the outer part of the opening wood layer. This will create a stop for the plastic window and will not allow it to deform.

The parts of the casing are connected to each other in the following ways:

  • wedge connection;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • studded connection.

Thorn socket with ready-made slope

If the box is connected with self-tapping screws, be careful that they do not get stuck in the wall logs. Having completed the installation of the box, they proceed to installing the window and finishing the outside and inside. The slopes and window sill are made of plastic if the frame is made of plastic. When installing wooden double glazing slopes can be plastered. On the outside of the window, the ebb and frames are fixed.

Technological stages of casing installation

For successful installation of the pigtail prerequisite technology will be followed:

  • an opening is cut in the wall, which is located at a height of 80 cm from the floor;
  • a groove or ridge is cut out - this depends on the type of casing chosen;
  • all wooden elements are impregnated with an antiseptic solution;
  • insulate the opening around the perimeter using thermal insulation materials.

The casing is installed with mandatory compliance with the technology

Take measurements to order production plastic frames necessary after preparing the opening and installing the casing. This avoids incorrect sizes.

Features of creating and installing boxes for plastic frames

When installing a pigtail in a wooden structure, you need to know some of the features of its installation. The box can have a width of about 26 cm. It is also possible to use a larger width, but this sometimes causes cracks to appear in the casing. It is recommended to make the box using materials whose humidity is 10-12%. The drier the raw material, the more likely cracks will appear..


For installation of PVC windows a complicated version of the casing is used

When installing plastic frames, a more complicated version of the casing is suitable. A carriage with grooves is made and the ridge is cut out.

The structure, assembled from timber with grooves for the comb, is called a carriage for the pigtail. The size of the grooves is made so that the frame can easily slide along the guides when the house shrinks.

The price for making casing depends not only on the size of the opening, but also on the raw materials from which the house itself is built (log house, log or timber). To get a quality product, you should order it from trusted builders. To make a casing with your own hands, you need to understand all the nuances of the process and purchase the required tool for the job.

Starting to install windows from plastic profile V wooden walls, please note that you cannot insert them without a jamb. It will help create conditions under which the frame will serve you for a long period of time without deforming or requiring repairs.

Self-installation window design allows you to save money, but incorrect work only increases costs in the future. There is a special technology for houses made of wood PVC installation windows

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC structures

Installation requires a person to have special skills and knowledge; if they do not have those, then it is better to study the topic in detail. The best system fixation is a tongue and groove, it is this that allows you to avoid deformation when the wood shrinks, which has a negative impact on the performance properties of the metal-plastic window structure. New buildings are more susceptible to shrinkage, but even in houses built a long time ago, shrinkage can occur.

Professionals note that a wooden house sags by an average of 20 mm per year. It is not so easy to determine this with the naked eye, but by looking at the window design it is very easy.

It is rare, but it happens that for several years no deformation occurs, and then under the influence of the environment the distortion becomes visible. To prevent this from happening in a wooden house, casing must be done before installing the window. This is a very complex and painstaking process, but it cannot be excluded. If you carry out the installation, as in brick house, you will need constant adjustment of the fittings in the window structure. Plastic structures have many advantages, which is why they are in great demand on the market. Among them it is worth highlighting the following:

  • low operating costs, since such a window does not need to be painted or treated against insects;
  • durability of the material, which is resistant to temperature changes environment, it is not affected by ultraviolet radiation, does not corrode and does not rot;
  • good frame rigidity;
  • fire safety;
  • no cracking or warping.

All these advantages make the window design suitable for all regions of our country. PVC copes well with the tasks set both in the south and in the north. But, like any material, polyvinyl chloride has disadvantages, since it is far from ideal. Among them are the following:

  • the inability to maintain the required level of humidity in the house, since such structures are completely sealed;
  • such a window cannot be repaired if the surface is damaged;
  • there is always a lot of dust on plastic because it attracts it with static electricity;
  • the material has a high coefficient of thermal expansion, so the places where the plastic is adjacent to the wall are often damaged;
  • Wood has better sound and heat insulation than plastic.

Important nuances

Installing plastic structures in a wooden house has its own characteristics. It doesn’t matter whether such windows are installed in timber or log house, technology must be strictly followed. When installing a plastic window, it is worth remembering that the shrinkage of the wood causes additional pressure on the frame. This is one of the reasons why casing cannot be done without.

It is not always a good idea to use polyurethane foam in the space between the top strip of the window and the wall, since it becomes quite rigid when it dries and also creates unnecessary pressure on the structure. In this case, all the benefits of casing are nullified.

If you do not take into account the gap between the frame and the wall, having calculated the incorrect dimensions of the window, you will have to increase the opening, since it will not be installed without negative consequences too much big window will not work. After foaming the gaps from the outside, it is better to install PSUL tape; it will not only protect against ultraviolet rays, but also from moisture.

Polyurethane foam, for all its advantages, quickly degrades and loses its properties if it is not protected. Inside a timber dacha, this must be done using a vapor barrier, and waterproofing will help on the outside. Most window distortions occur when it is not installed level. Fittings in this design fail twice as quickly and require replacement.

We must not forget about the cold zone, in which the window begins to freeze from the side of the slopes, and condensation appears inside.

Manufacturers emphasize the tightness of PVC structures and excellent noise insulation as one of the main advantages of windows of this type. In fact wooden frame has natural ventilation, due to which the level of humidity in the room does not increase; the same cannot be said about PVC windows.

During their installation, in order to eliminate problems with condensation in the future, you need to install ventilation yourself, and if there are no special holes, you will have to try hard.

The situation is greatly simplified by supply valves, which are special profiles installed on a plastic window.

I can't help but be pleased with the ease of installation. The user will need to remove the seal already present in the window structure and place the valve on the sash. It can be easily secured with self-tapping screws, but you will need to think through the exhaust hole, otherwise the system will be of no use.

No one will be happy that companies that install plastic structures in a wooden house do not guarantee their work, since they cannot fully predict the behavior of PVC. Even if you comply with all norms and requirements, there is no guarantee that after several years of operation the window will not stop working.

Manufacturing of casing

Only the casing protects the window structure in the log house from distortions, bends and other types of deformations. The casing boards must be dry and strong, otherwise they will not be able to complete the task. A board whose thickness cannot be less than 5 cm or a beam 15x10 cm is suitable for this. The thickness of the element is always equal to the thickness of the wall.

The rules for building an old wooden house do not change. Things are completely different with frame buildings because they do not shrink. Such houses are already created with openings for windows and doors; they have the necessary rigidity for installation. A log house that has stood for more than ten years also does not shrink.

Casing can be carried out different ways, such as:

  • spike-monolith;
  • embedded timber;
  • into the deck.

The most reliable of the three options is the last one, but it is also considered the most labor-intensive. Those who do not have enough skills and abilities are recommended to do casing using the second method. It is necessary to make grooves in the middle of the window opening, vertical to each other with dimensions of 5x5 cm. You can use circular saw, chainsaw, ax and even a chisel.

Before driving the timber into the groove, it must be wrapped in linen. The seal will be located between the wall and the element, but it should extend slightly onto the window opening.

An edged board is placed on the block and secured with self-tapping screws at the top and bottom. Two bolts are enough in each case. Before doing this, it is worth drilling a recess slightly larger than the diameter of the cap. If a monolith tenon is used, the T-shaped beam is cut out in advance and then installed in the existing groove, after which it is secured with self-tapping screws to ensure reliable fastening.

Elements of the window structure, located vertically, should be at a distance of 8 cm from the top of the window opening. That is, a five-centimeter beam laid on the upper jamb should be at a distance of 3 cm from the wall. It is this distance that is taken as the shrinkage gap.

The top strip of the window should not dangle in the grooves; it should only go in with force. The final fastening is made with self-tapping screws, which are driven in at an angle. The final work at this stage can be considered the installation of insulation. The gap is closed with polyurethane foam, which can be laid in one or several stages. If it is necessary to apply the composition twice, then you should wait ten minutes until the first layer hardens. IN hot weather the foam must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

The material quickly deteriorates when exposed to the sun and other weather conditions, therefore, it is covered with a vapor barrier on the inside, and a windproof membrane is used on the outside.

It is prohibited to use a vapor barrier on both sides, since then moisture will accumulate under it, and this will contribute to the formation of mold.

Installation

You can install a window structure with your own hands, insert the structure into a box, install a window sill, make slopes, but it is better to first study the technology so as not to spoil everything. The main tools you will need are the following:

  • level;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • spray;
  • key to adjust windows;
  • chisel;
  • bolts;
  • spacer wedges.

It's easier to install windows with a partner, since not everything can be done on your own. It is worth understanding that a double-glazed window has an impressive weight and it is impossible to hold it while carrying out work alone. Before installation, it is better to check the measurements taken to determine the presence of gaps. There should be 5 cm left for foaming on top, 3 cm on the sides, and 4 cm at the place where the window sill is installed.

Incorrect mortise in wood village house will cause many problems in the future.

Before installation, it is imperative to purchase hardware store special fasteners, which are metal plates with holes made. Professionals advise using them, stipulating this requirement by the fact that the use of self-tapping screws that penetrate through the frame completely deprives it of its tightness, and accordingly reduces the level of thermal insulation.

The window is installed only by level and nothing else, distortions threaten to occur rapid spoilage plastic product and breakdown of fittings. Be sure to remove the sashes from the window, thereby reducing the weight of the frame at the time of work. The insert must be positioned evenly and attached only to elements dictated by the standard. When foaming the gaps, you can prevent them from moving by placing bars under the frame, and then removing them.

It is important to choose the correct location of the screws; it is strictly forbidden to screw them in at the location of the ridge.

Okosyachka

The pigtail is assembled after preparing the window opening. The upper part is cut out of a 15x4 cm board and grooves are created through which it will be attached to the ridge. This part of the opening is located at the top; it must be flat and free of kinks, otherwise difficulties will arise later with the installation of the plastic structure.

The protrusion, which plays the role of a ridge, is covered with rolled tow, and then a carriage is put on - a prepared wooden element with a cut groove. This is done in order to improve thermal insulation and get rid of squeaking. The upper part of the pigtail must be screwed to this element with self-tapping screws, but so as not to affect the comb.

Double-glazed window

Double-glazed windows are delivered to the installation site assembled; before installation they must be disassembled, this is the only way to reduce the weight of the structure. Using a special key, it is necessary to remove the upper pins that hold the sash open.

Then the handle is turned and when open, the sash is easily removed from the lower fastening, but it is worth remembering that this is the heaviest part of the structure.

To knock out the glazing beads and remove the glass unit, you need to use a spatula or a hammer and a knife. Carefully moving the element away, you should simply remove it from the frame. The short sides can be slightly pryed from the corner and pulled.

Experts advise immediately removing the window structure from the outside protective film until it sticks to the surface, reacting with the plastic under the influence of ultraviolet light. Then it will be almost impossible to tear it off. It is necessary to drill holes for the dowels, which should be located at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corner, and no more than 70 cm from each other.

Plastic windows can reduce heating costs, since the sealed design prevents the formation of drafts. It is impossible not to note the aesthetic appeal of such products and the cost savings on maintenance. But plastic windows will meet the requirements only if the installation was carried out correctly.

Self-installation of PVC structures in a wooden house has some difficulties, which is why it should be done in accordance with the instructions of specialists. The time of year does not affect the installation process in any way. Availability modern technologies allows you to carry out work with equal success in summer and winter, when polyurethane frost-resistant sealant is used.

Many users are unhappy with the accumulation of condensation and say that moisture constantly accumulates on the inside. This can be avoided by simply ventilating the room or installing high-quality exhaust devices ventilation system. In cold weather, you can immediately determine the presence of poor sealing; the condensation that appears will indicate places where it is necessary to foam more strongly.

If the installation is carried out by workers, you should make sure that the installation of plastic windows is carried out according to established standards, then in the future you will not have to face unpleasant surprises. A professional installer will not work in sub-zero temperatures.