The finishing of a bathhouse differs in many respects from that of residential premises, both in the materials used and in technology. The most important thing you need to know when starting to decorate the inside of a bathhouse is: You can’t build a turnkey bathhouse and then think about how to finish it. The finishing of the bathhouse is carried out in combination with insulation and insulation, and as for the floor, also as part of the work on its installation. Reason – special conditions microclimate of the bathhouse and the stay of people in it.
The cornerstones of insulation are that the vapor barrier is applied on the wetter side, and the insulation on the cold side. In the bathhouse, both of them regularly find themselves inside, just, so to speak, in operating mode, during washing. So you need to insulate yourself from the inside? But in winter, the bathhouse periodically freezes completely, and then how can you prevent the building structures from becoming damp?
The second point is the bathhouse spirit. Not everyone could afford to build a “original” bathhouse in the old days, but in our time it is available to only a few. The sauna is not breathable - just a heat chamber and the health benefits from it are, to put it mildly, questionable. So how, then, is it possible to steam in a structure made from available materials, which you can build and equip on your own?
Finally, the main rooms of the bath are the washing room and the steam room.. In them, in addition to sudden changes in temperature and humidity, there is always a copious spill of water on the floor and walls. How to avoid unsanitary conditions in such conditions? All these tasks are taken on by finishing the inside of the bathhouse. Of course, it must also perform its usual functions, decorative and ergonomic.
Large public baths beginning with Ancient Rome, got off and now often get off mineral materials- stone, tiles. For a small bathhouse they are definitely not suitable: with a decrease in the size of the building, per unit of its volume there is more big square external surfaces, and with it heat loss. Then, to make a stone bath breathe, it needs high, from 4-5 m, ceilings and well-designed ventilation and hot air supply systems; The design of the Roman baths still fascinates engineers and builders.
Have you been to the hammam? How high is it from the heels of the person standing in pairs to the lowest point of the ceiling? If less than 4.2 m, then what kind of equipment is hidden in the technical premises? How much does it cost, consume fuel and electricity? In a private household, the interior decoration of the bathhouse should, without alternative, be wooden. This makes it difficult for it to achieve proper hygiene, but there is no other way to install a healthy sauna with dimensions less than approx. 12x16 m no.
The structure of the bathhouse can be brick, foam and gas blocks, wooden beams, frame or log; We don’t touch on such exotic things as, say, an earthen bath. Except for one of these cases (see below), the structure of the bathhouse itself is not capable of breathing as a bathhouse should. Bathhouse builders final finishing boxes 4x6 m turnkey cost about... 500 thousand rubles, and materials account for no more than 20-25% of this amount! It follows that decorating a bathhouse with your own hands is at least economically justified. Now let’s summarize what we should get technically:
The simplest decoration of a Russian bath is simply its absence, see fig. More precisely, the absence of a continuous finish: a bathhouse made from wild logs selected to size breathes perfectly on its own thanks primarily to the open ends of the logs - along the fibers the tree absorbs and releases water vapor several times faster than across the layers, but it warms up from thermal radiation and from contact with heated air evenly. Therefore, in the original Russian bathhouse, the required ratio of temperature and humidity is automatically maintained. wide range flow intensity.
The original Russian bathhouse comes in 3 types - vigorous, made of oak, kondovaya, most often made of pine, and light, linden. The latter is the most useful, but if linden timber appears on sale, it is prohibitively expensive. A complete replacement for it in terms of sanitary and hygienic indicators, but only for 5-7 years, is poplar. Steaming in a vigorous oak bath is not for everyone’s health; It is definitely not recommended for women and children.
A pine bathhouse without interior decoration will be useful and quite fragrant if it is made from ordinary commercial pine-dried chips. Expensive, but extremely resistant to moisture, rot and pests, pitch pine is used for 1-2 lower crowns. However, the pine bath must first be “burnt”, the remaining volatile substances must be expelled from the logs, and the heavy fractions of resins must be forced to bituminize. To do this in dry summer hot weather in a new bathhouse, in the morning, open all the doors wide, entrance and interior, windows, overhead vents (see below) and empty all containers, including the waste pit, if it is under the floor. Then the stove is heated to maximum until lunchtime; here for the first time you need an eye and an eye - suddenly there is something wrong in the fireproof cutting of the pipe (also see below). After lunch, the firebox is stopped, the bathhouse is allowed to cool until the next morning, and this procedure is repeated 3-5 times. If the weather turns bad, it’s okay, a break won’t hurt.
However, use Russian log sauna without additional finishing is possible only if the log house is properly caulked. Since ancient times, baths were caulked with moss, but now the best option is jute. During the construction process, the crowns are caulked in a stretched strip (see the figure on the right), and after dry shrinkage of the frame, the cracks in the set are hammered with jute rope (left top photo in Fig. higher). If the bathhouse is built in compliance with these requirements, the floor in it is also laid as it should be, see below, and properly burnt, only decorative functions remain behind its finishing; you just need to leave more wall surfaces free and not cover the outer and inner ends of the logs.
The northern country of Finland has never been rich in forests suitable for building a bathhouse. The abundant spruce there is not the best option in this case: it is difficult and time-consuming to remove resin from its solid mass. Therefore, the Finns initially assigned the medical and health functions of the bathhouse to its less expensive internal lining: The traditional finishing of the sauna is a plank stand made of seasoned spruce boards, see fig.
Avid Finnish sauna lovers, having steamed in their own and in a real Russian sauna, say: yours is better. Not by much, but it still feels better. However, a sauna is much simpler, cheaper, can be made compact, even in the nook of a city apartment, and even mobile, which is what determined its wide distribution. The design of the sauna is very plastic, therefore, if you want to get a sauna, then when finishing using the methods described below, use seasoned air-dry spruce for the cladding.
So, a properly equipped bathhouse made of any material other than solid logs should breathe like a bathhouse, thanks mainly to the decoration of the walls. It is more necessary for the ceiling to prevent heat loss so that the air under it does not become oversaturated with moisture, but, having cooled slightly, immediately flows down to the floor. The floor gets the most: it must be safe, i.e. non-slippery, hygienic, warm, especially resistant to rot, mold, pests, ensure the drainage of spilled water and at the same time do not interfere with the ventilation of the subfloor, otherwise the entire structure will become damp. And, as you know, it is strongly not recommended to make the base of a bathhouse higher than 200 mm.
Note: Finishing work in the bathhouse can be started only after the foundation and the frame on it have settled. The timing of technical breaks for shrinkage depends on the design of the foundation and the structure of the bathhouse.
You need to learn from simple to complex, but in practice, for complete success you need to deal with the most complex cases first. Therefore, let's go, firstly, as is customary in construction, from bottom to top, from floor to roof; secondly, since there is a stove in the bathhouse, it will be necessary to bring in the principle “from the stove”. That is, we will carry out the interior decoration of the bathhouse in this order, assuming that the box with windows and doors is already on the foundation:
Note: The overhead vents in the bathhouse are often forgotten, but in vain. Especially in a steam room, they can be vital for instantly releasing steam in case someone becomes ill. An unheated bathhouse must be kept with the top vents open to avoid dampness of the walls.
Sauna stoves are a separate topic, and brick sauna stoves are a separate topic. Here we will focus only on the fireproof cutting of the chimney, because... Without it, it is impossible to begin further arrangement with it, and no one has yet come up with hanging chimneys without a stove.
A brick sauna stove is heated intensively, but not constantly and not for long, so the danger of soot ignition in it is low. Therefore, the cutting of its chimney is not made wide, but in 7 rows; For order, see pos. 1 pic. A hatch is cut out in the attic floor for cutting, pos. 2, and perform additional insulation with vermiculite, pos. 3. In the case of using a widened groove, the hatch is expanded accordingly and additional insulation is then no longer needed, on the right in pos. 3. Cutting a passage through the roof is common, but that’s another topic.
The beams of the subfloor of the bathhouse should be supported by concrete pillars from 200x200 mm or brick pillars from 380x380 mm. An anti-heaving sand cushion with a thickness (thickness) of at least 300 mm and extending beyond the contour of the column from 150 mm is installed under each column. The installation step of supports is no more than 1.2 m along the long side of the building and no more than 2 m along the short side. If the frame of the subfloor is spinal or lattice (see below), then the arrangement of supports is drawn up so that there is a column under each cross of the beams. Because Since the base of the bathhouse is low, it is convenient in all respects to use ready-made concrete supports for the floor foundation blocks 200x200x400 mm without teeth, with smooth ends. The columns are leveled horizontally along the foundation by adding and compacting sand pads and, before laying the floor beams, they are covered with 2 layers of waterproofing, just like the foundation.
The ideal material for the floor beams and 1-2 lower crowns of the frame is healthy straight-grain pitch pine, freshly cut in mid-spring. Bark beetles, wood borers and fungi do not touch this: they will choke in the resin. The abundant resin in it will be bituminized by the end of summer, and the tree will become resistant to moisture, rot and pests no worse than bog oak. The tar does not require any pre-treatment, but, unfortunately, this material is very expensive, and in many countries logging during the spring sap flow is generally prohibited.
It is better to use larch for beams and subfloor boards: it only needs to be impregnated with fire retardants and biocides with inexpensive and safe solutions of borax and boric acid; Larch is not afraid of water anyway. Oak too, but it is more expensive, and the bath does not need additional strength. Other industrial wood for flooring must also be impregnated with water-repellent compounds - water repellents. Of these, only expensive refined mineral oils and no less expensive synthetic ones based on silicone are suitable for baths. It’s better to forget about bitumen mastic, and even more so about surrogates like mining, if we are talking about a bathhouse.
Note: all without exception wood materials To finish the bath, before use, they are brought into it and left for 1-3 days for acclimatization. Otherwise finished design one of them will almost certainly soon warp or dry out.
If the width of the bathhouse structure is more than 4 m, the subfloor frame needs a spine frame (item 1 in the figure) or a lattice frame made of 150x150 beams. In this case, its beams crash into each other halfway through the tree. The frame, like the entire floor of the bathhouse, is made floating with a deformation gap around the perimeter of 20-40 mm. The gap is not tightly filled with jute rope or mineral cardboard.
In a bathhouse up to 4 m wide, the base of the subfloor is made of beams made of 150x50 beams. After cutting to size, cranial bars 40x40 or 50x50 are stuffed onto them below, and the beams are laid out in places with increments of 400-500 mm, pos. 2. The beams are secured from displacement with pieces of the same timber, cut according to a template, pos. 3. B log buildings It is permissible to lay floor beams freely in the grooves of the lower crown of the log house, without insertion, pos. 4, with a gap along the groove contour of 4-6 mm. Next, the cells of the beam structure are filled with subfloor boards, pos. 5. They are attached to the skull blocks with galvanized or phosphated nails or self-tapping screws.
The subfloor of the bathhouse should be laid across the spans between the beams from pieces of boards cut to size. As we will see later, then when laying the finished floor, the cracks in it and in rough floor will turn out to be perpendicular, which will facilitate the very difficult task of insulating the bathhouse floor.
The second feature is that it is better to take cheap debarked slab on the subfloor of the bathhouse and lay it with its convex sides up. The outer dense and resistant layer of wood in the slab boards is not damaged, which will give the floor durability, and the convexity of the boards will prevent stagnation of water spilled on the floor. The slabs, due to the reduction in the thickness of the trunk from bottom to top, converge to one end, so the subfloor is assembled from the slab by picking up boards and laying them alternately with thin ends in one direction and the other.
Finally, finished floor joists 50 mm wide without insertion are installed on the floor beams, pos. 6. They are also fastened to the beams with galvanized or phosphated steel corners from 30x30x2 and also corrosion-resistant screws from 6x25. “From” in the first case refers primarily to the thickness of the metal of the corner, so that it will last for at least 15 years under sauna operating conditions.
The height of the logs under the finished floor in the bathhouse is taken to be different for different rooms: 50 mm in the washing room, 75-100 mm in the dressing room and rest room and 200 mm in the steam room. Why - see below.
So why are the floor joists in the bathhouse different? First of all, because it is possible to apply the usual floor insulation scheme (see figure on the right) in a bathhouse only for the dressing room and rest room. In the steam room and washing room, hot water is sure to spill on the floor; In principle, only extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is capable of maintaining its qualities and not becoming a source of rot in such conditions from insulation materials, but it, like other types of foam plastic, is seriously discredited according to recent studies.
Not long ago, experiments were completed in several countries (Holland, Canada, Russia, etc.), at the beginning of which foam plastic slabs of various types were placed on walls made of various building materials and walled up under plaster different composition. After opening it 10 years later, it turned out that from the original foam thickness of 80-100 mm, there was... 17-23 mm left!
As it turned out during the analysis, foam plastics are destroyed into liquid styrene, which evaporates under the influence of subtle traces of chemically active volatile organics in the air, down to the components of the aroma of flowers and the smell of pine forests. Industrial emissions and gasoline fumes are, of course, even worse. Speed chemical reactions and the diffusion of vapors into solids depends on temperature according to power laws, so foam insulation in a bathhouse is unlikely to last 10 years even under concrete, which seems to be something many users have already encountered.
It follows that for insulating the floor in a washing and steam bath there is only one method left: air-to-air, like a gas view in bell-type stoves. Its essence is that a cushion of cold dense gases/air holds warm ones on itself, but to do this it is necessary to exclude convection by limiting the contact area of cold and warm layers. The stronger the effect, the greater the temperature difference and, consequently, the density of the cold and warm layers.
The design of the floor with cells made of lags intersecting with beams and cracks in the rough and finished floors prevents convection, keeping warm air above the floor. Raising the floor of the steam room above the washing room by 150 mm is necessary due to the temperature difference in them. In a steam room, the less heated air cushion in the floor is more stable and warmer than in a washing room. Leaking there from below, it feeds the cooled air in the floor of the washing room: there it, finally cooling down, goes into the underground. The temperature difference at the top and bottom of the washing room is much less; convection through the floor can go through narrow cracks and the room will quickly become cold.
As for the elevation of the floors of the dressing room and rest room, it is sanitary standards should be from 3 cm. This value was obtained from the statistics of pipeline accidents in bathrooms - per 1 sq. m of floor in such cases, up to 25 liters of water are poured out. A layer of 3 cm per 1 square. m gives 30 l, i.e. with a margin so that it does not flow into the living rooms. For a bathhouse, this calculation is not valid, but the norm is the norm, and there will be no harm from an elevation of more than 3 cm. Finally, the outflow of the “cold” (which is warm for other rooms) air cushion from the floor of the steam room will warm up the floors of the dressing room with the rest room.
As you can see, the critical point of insulating the bathhouse floor is the washing room floor. If you make it, as is often advised, inclined with point surface drainage, this is not the optimal option:
The floor of a washing room with a dispersed drain and a catcher in the underground, pos. 1 in Fig. In addition, this design makes it possible to additionally insulate the subfloor with a layer of expanded clay under the concrete screed. It is best if the catcher covers the entire area of the bathhouse. If not, it should extend under the steam room, and its wings should extend under the dressing room and rest room by at least 60 cm.
The slotted floor in the washing room is made of larch or oak boards with a rounded edge, pos. 2. Slots at pos. 3 shows the maximum permissible width so that you can catch something that has fallen into the underground with your fingers, a hook or tweezers/platypuses small item; In general, gaps of 0.5-1 cm are enough for the floor in the washing room to work as it should.
It’s easier in a steam room with a finished floor - here there is a burst of drainage only if they are poured out of a gang, and the underground heats up well. Therefore, the floor of the steam room can be laid from the same boards as in the washing room, laid end to end.
If, when laying floors in a bathhouse, one had to think more about their own functionality, then on the walls one cannot ignore the structural features of the bathhouse and the decorative qualities of the finishing. First of all, you need to decide which wood finish is better: moldings made of natural wood or more durable, but not exuding useful substances(eg phytoncides) MDF. In any case, at the same stage the type of insulating material is determined. The choice depends on the properties of the material of the bath structure - timber / galvanized logs, frame / foam blocks, brick / aerated concrete blocks. The structure of a bathhouse made of monolithic foam concrete has the same properties as those made of foam blocks.
It is usually recommended to insulate a bathhouse with mineral wool, as well as living quarters, which is not the best choice: mineral wool is hygroscopic, when wet it loses its insulating qualities and irreversibly cakes. Based on its range of properties, the best insulating material for a bathhouse should be considered cellulose insulation – ecowool. Much has been written about its merits; For a bathhouse, the main thing is that ecowool practically does not lose its insulating qualities after 72 hours of exposure to an atmosphere with 100% humidity. In addition, ecowool is blown into cavities without much difficulty using a manual blowing machine, which can be rented, see fig.
Insulation with ecowool is more expensive than with mineral wool, by about 25%. But let’s take into account that the area of the insulated surface decreases squarely as the size of the building decreases. If, for example, when insulating a house of 100 square meters. m of ecowool, the overexpenditure of funds is 100 thousand rubles, then for a bathhouse of 20 sq. m. m (4x5 m), its absolute value will decrease by 25 times and amount to 4 thousand rubles, which will not be visible in the estimate for the bathhouse.
In general, ecowool was purposely created for insulating baths, but in the future we will still focus on the more popular mineral wool. Just keep in mind that for ecowool, foil vapor barrier can almost always be replaced with glassine or kraft paper, and where this is not possible, it will be specifically indicated.
They are often confused or considered the same material, so let’s clarify: foam concrete absorbs vapor and liquid water a lot and quickly, but just as easily gives off moisture. Aerated concrete is vapor permeable almost like wood. It draws liquid water into itself slowly and in a smaller volume, but, once damp, it dries no better than a brick.
You can use a clean-edged board to decorate the walls of a bathhouse in any way you like, but you won’t be able to do without cracks in them. Washing and steam room walls can only be covered with simple tongue-and-groove boards standing up: the shelves and tongue-and-groove pockets of horizontally sewn boards will become moisture catchers and sources of damage to the wood.
When covering walls in a bathhouse with clapboard, it is not so much the material that matters as the profile of the board. For plating horizontal belts the Standard profile is more suitable, at the top in Fig. on the right or Softline (with rounded chamfers) without a ventilation groove on the back side: ventilation of the sheathing will be ensured by the vertical arrangement of the sheathing slats, see below. For standing cladding along a horizontal sheathing, you need profiles with a wide ventilation groove in the center; crossing lathing in a bathhouse is unsuitable, because Ventilation of the casing will be poor in any case. Also unsuitable are profiles with narrow ventilation slots, shown below in the figure: they are intended for installation without lathing on flat walls in dry rooms.
Saunas made of rounded logs and timber, compared to the original Russian ones, breathe more often and deeper, because... in both cases, the top dense layer of wood is cut off and its pores are open over the entire surface of the material. Baths made of foam concrete/foam blocks and frame ones breathe the same way, but they become damp faster and lose their heat-insulating properties; dry also quickly. Compared to humans, they are easily out of breath and catch colds, but recover easily. A bathhouse made of gas blocks breathes easily and deeply, but if you have already caught a cold, i.e. damp, sick (dries) for a long time and severely. A brick bathhouse breathes shallowly and heavily, and suffers just like an aerated concrete bathhouse.
Internal lining made of oak or beech can deepen and slow down the breathing of a bathhouse; to a lesser extent - from ash and maple. To make it faster and lighter - from linden, alder, aspen; finishing the steam room with wood of these species will be the best. Birch and hornbeam are easily affected by fungi and pests, just like a wet nut. Of the conifers, seasoned pine after “burning” as described above is suitable for a very average bathhouse. Other rocks advertised for finishing baths have not yet been properly tested for the leakage of substances that are not beneficial to health, with one exception.
This exception is Cryptomeria japonica; it goes on sale under the name koto or kote. The Japanese use koto to make their baths, fonts and other washing accessories. The cryptomeria finish in itself can give the bathhouse smooth, deep breathing and a healthy spirit. Cryptomeria is resistant to diseases and pests, grows quite quickly, and renews well. Therefore, its technical culture has already spread quite widely, and lining made from cryptomeria is cheaper than linden. Its color is light, slightly darker than that of maple; fine texture. In addition to the steam room, koto wood is suitable for finishing a wash room. Keep in mind.
Schemes for covering bathhouse walls with wood molded materials are given on the left in Fig. Let’s immediately pay attention to the sidebar: you can’t line the walls of a bathhouse with a herringbone pattern, as rot will come from the pockets under the paneling. At pos. 1 – diagram internal lining bathhouse walls made of timber, rounded logs and foam blocks. The thermal insulation properties of such a bathhouse are good, the vapor permeability of the walls is close to optimal, so a foil vapor barrier under the casing is sufficient to protect the building from condensation soaking during the cooling of the bathhouse. MDF lining is suitable for cladding. The foam block bath will additionally need to be protected from the outside from getting wet without losing vapor permeability, see at the end. The lining for its lining requires wood, which makes the bath’s breathing heavier, see above. Vapor barrier is necessary for any insulation material.
At pos. 2 – diagram of the internal lining of a bathhouse made of other materials, including gas blocks. Their thermal insulation qualities are high, but this material must be protected in every possible way from liquid moisture getting on the wall, even for a short time. For this purpose, finishing washing bath made of aerated blocks necessarily includes in its structure waterproofing made of a microperforated membrane (roofing film): membrane waterproofing traps the smallest droplets of condensate, but allows water vapor to pass through, which then migrates through the wall to the outside. This will, of course, make the gas-block bathhouse rather difficult to breathe.
Bathhouse made of timber natural humidity(the cheapest) when erecting a log house, it must be caulked into the guy wire, see fig. on right. In a bathhouse made of bricks and foam blocks, the lathing under the cladding is mounted on bare, leveled walls, pos. 3 in Fig. higher. Then they install/spray insulation and apply a metalized vapor barrier - foil insulation, etc., encircling it around the sheathing slats. Place the sheathing slats on top of the insulation, as in pos. 6 – a serious mistake: through their fasteners, moisture will penetrate into the insulation and the wall; The fasteners for the sheathing and insulation clamping strips are small, they do not pierce through the sheathing, see also below.
The overlap of the insulation strips (tapes) is 15-20 cm; The joints are taped with special tape. The upper tape should overlap the lower one to drain possible condensation. If the roof of the bathhouse is insulated, then the likelihood of condensation at the top along the contour of the wall is higher than on the ceiling. In this case, before rolling out the last tape of wall insulation, the ceiling is insulated (item 6), and the last tape overlaps both the previous wall and the ceiling insulation.
The actual lining of the walls of the bathhouse has no significant features, except for one thing: finishing the steam room in the bathhouse with clapboard should be done only and only with standard fastenings - gluers, see fig. Temperature jumps in a steam room can reach 80 degrees in the Moscow region and more than 100 degrees in Siberia; thermal deformations will also be of a corresponding magnitude. Any acceptable in living rooms simplifications and reductions in cost, such as small nails driven obliquely into the groove of a tongue and groove, in a steam room will soon lead to warping of the sheathing, damage to the insulation and soaking of the walls.
Ventilation vents under the ceiling of the bathhouse - upper vents - are necessary, as mentioned above, to keep the temperature and humidity of the unheated bathhouse equal to the outside ones and so that steam can be quickly released in emergency cases. But make them simple ventilation windows You can’t use blind hatch covers: during thermal bath procedures, condensation may fall into the ventilation passage, which will immediately go into the wall and/or insulation. Therefore, the top vents in the bathhouse are made with inserts made of wall material (see figure on the right) or, say, foam plastic, in this case it is quite applicable.
The simplest way to install a metal sauna stove is shown in pos. 1 Fig., but this is far from optimal: there is no appearance, and the risk of injury and fire does not decrease, because the fence is flammable and permeable. A solid brick fence (item 2) is more reliable, but takes more usable area, the excess of which in homemade baths not visible. Brick oven, pos. 3, in addition, requires laying a foundation for it and long technical breaks for its shrinkage and the structure of the furnace. It would be best, perhaps, to install a sauna stove in a niche lined with artificial stone (item 4) or porcelain stoneware; both are firmly glued to the wood using appropriate mounting adhesives.
Currently, there is a wide range of chimneys for stoves based on sandwich pipes on sale. They look neat, inset at the top left in the figure:
But, firstly, they do not eliminate the need for plumbing, welding and construction work, as can be seen from the diagram in the center in Fig. There are also plenty of other difficulties and subtleties when installing a sandwich chimney (see video).
Secondly, many happy owners of “cool” chimneys have experienced cases like the one whose consequences are shown in the inset at the top right. Manufacturers are not deceiving consumers here, but the latter, choosing cheaper ones, unknowingly connect to sauna stoves sandwich chimneys for fireplaces, which are absolutely unsuitable for sauna conditions. And for a sandwich chimney that is more or less suitable for a sauna or heating and cooking stove, you need to pay at least 30 thousand rubles.
Meanwhile, there is a way to make a simple and safe chimney for a sauna stove with your own hands, spending no more effort than installing a branded sandwich, and many times less money. This is the lining of an ordinary steel chimney. How it is produced is shown in pos. 1 Fig., and what it looks like in real life - in pos. 2 and 3. If the pipe under the bottom of the sleeve is red-hot, the temperature of the attachment points of the brick cutting base plate at +60 in the room will not exceed the permissible for wood +95. Insulation of the base plate from below is necessary so that during a weak firebox or at the beginning of heating a cold room, soot deposition in the chimney does not increase and/or acidic condensation does not fall out.
The task of the bathhouse ceiling, as stated above, is quite simple: it must prevent heat loss through itself, so that convection in both the heated and cold bathhouse occurs without reaching dew in the rooms. Therefore, the ceiling of the bathhouse is made of the usual hemmed ceiling from the same board or lining as the walls, according to the standard scheme shown with dimensions on the left in Fig. Option for 2-stage ceiling insulation for a bathhouse with warm attic, habitable attic or home bath given on the right there.
In all respects, it is advisable to install light frame partitions on any bathhouse on a clean floor. Their heat and sound insulation can be foam plastic, because... This design is completely repairable. There is only one limitation: the cladding is made of the same materials as the walls; plywood, fiberboard, and gypsum board, even if they are moisture resistant, are unsuitable; they are not for bath conditions.
The second thing that has more to do with the decoration of the bathhouse than with its equipment and furniture is the shelves. Schemes and sizes of bath shelves for steam rooms different sizes and layouts are shown in Fig.:
As for their design, the simplest thing would be a set of ordinary lattice drains made of deciduous wood suitable for a bath (see above).
Such loungers are laid on wooden runners, installed on the walls in the order of their covering, see fig. on right. This solution makes it possible to configure the shelves as needed or completely remove them for cleaning, sanitizing or repairs.
According to safety regulations, the entire bathhouse is classified as a particularly dangerous premises in terms of the degree of electric shock and fire hazard. In such conditions, a general power supply of 12 V and waterproof lamps are acceptable. Everything would be fine, but wiring for the same power turns out to be high-current, unreliable and unsafe in a humid, heated environment, and the light bulbs quickly burn out. Therefore, recently, expensive but completely safe light guide illuminators are increasingly being used to illuminate washing rooms and steam rooms. In them, the projector lamp illuminates a bundle of light guides, the branches of which are distributed along the points where the illuminators are located. Among other things, light guide lighting in the bath allows you to obtain beautiful lighting effects, see fig.:
Well, it turns out that the decoration of the bath largely determines the pleasure and benefits of it? Why not, in this case, think of a bathhouse for yourself, following the finishing outwards? That's right, many bathhouse designers do just that. Let's try and think for ourselves small bathhouse, with a minimum of justifiable costs for it, as pleasant and beneficial as possible. The result is:
The bathhouse can be built from any material: wood, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete and much more. To do this, you can involve specialists in this field.
But decorating the inside of bathhouses with your own hands can be not only economically profitable, but also of high quality.
Where to start finishing work? After all, there are several surfaces in the room that need to be done aesthetically beautifully.
This includes finishing:
The whole process starts from the floor. As a rule, no subfloor is made during construction.
It is for this reason that it is worthwhile to initially tackle floor structures. For this, a concrete screed is made.
For the solution used:
Stages of work:
Advice. If this does not work out, then it will be possible after complete hardening. concrete mortar Screeds use liquid flooring, which perfectly levels the surface.
Finishing work on the floor is carried out only after complete completion of work on the walls and ceiling of the room. Interior finishing of floors can be done with any modern and affordable floor coverings.
After work on the floor, the whole process switches to the walls. Rough finishing of walls is considered to be their leveling and preparation of the surface for final finishing work.
In what cases will finishing be needed:
Advice. To save time and money, it is best to opt for preparatory work using drywall.
Using plaster to prepare the surface.
To use plaster you will need:
Applying plaster:
Advice. For such work it is better to choose a large one sandpaper. It will very quickly help get rid of various irregularities that could have formed as a result of applying the starting layer.
Advice. To sand the final plaster layer, use finer sandpaper.
Once the walls have already been prepared, it will be possible to carry out finishing work on them.
Drywall has been used for many years to level and prepare surfaces. Very often, in order to finish a bathhouse made of rounded timber, plasterboard is used in the work.
To install drywall you will need:
Decorating the inside of a bathhouse with your own hands using drywall will be quite simple. The video shows this finishing process.
There is nothing complicated in all the actions:
Ceiling finish:
In some cases, it is not necessary to pre-prepare the ceiling surface.
The entire process of finishing work inside such a room begins with the surface of the walls, then moves to the ceiling, and only then the floor is finished.
In some cases, it will be more rational to initially make the ceiling, then the walls and then the floor, see photo. But it depends on the choice ceiling covering.
Today there is a very large selection of quite affordable finishing materials, which are widely used in bath decoration and have good specifications.
The following are considered very practical:
The choice of one or another material for finishing depends on the room itself and the method of its use. It is clear that when decorating a steam room it is best to use natural materials- wood.
Under the influence of high temperature and steam, it is not capable of releasing a variety of harmful substances.
Advice. To decorate the steam room in the bathhouse, only deciduous trees are used, since coniferous trees can emit oily substances that over time will simply spoil the aesthetic appearance of the surface.
At the moment there are different prices for ceramic tiles. It all depends on the size and manufacturer.
Ceiling finish:
Bathroom floor finishing:
You need to choose the finishing of your bathhouse based on your financial capabilities, practicality of the finishing material and interior design.
Have you tried and built a beautiful steam room hut? Now we need to finish the inside of the bathhouse, which requires no less attention than exterior work. High humidity and elevated temperatures place special demands on materials, because not all of them are able to withstand difficult operating conditions. The choice of cladding determines how long the structure will last and how comfortable the procedures will be. Different rooms in the bathhouse require their own approach to finishing, but the most difficult is finishing the steam room in the bathhouse.
Design of a steam room in a bathhouse Source et.aviarydecor.com
For interior work There are a lot of finishing materials. To make it easier for you to choose what kind of finishing the steam room in the bathhouse will have, photos and paintings ready-made solutions Every designer has one. It is worth remembering that even if you made your own choice, it is better to coordinate it with a specialist, because not all materials are suitable for installation inside the hottest room.
Taking into account the specific operating conditions, the following requirements are imposed on the finishing:
moisture resistance;
heat resistance;
durability;
hygiene;
environmental friendliness.
Important! For the interior decoration of the bathhouse, you should choose natural materials.
When the temperature rises, plastic becomes deformed, begins to emit an unpleasant odor, and regular tiles cracks after heating. Therefore, the use of such finishing is unacceptable in the steam room.
The best option is wood. The finishing structure depends on financial capabilities. For example, lining is cheaper than timber; it is chosen if it is necessary to meet a certain budget. Basically, bathhouse owners prefer deciduous wood. Below is an example of what the interior decoration of a bathhouse might look like, a photo of the classic version.
High-quality wood for interior decoration of a bathhouse Source stroy-block.com.ua
There is an opinion that you should not sheathe the inside with steamed wood coniferous species, because when the temperature rises it releases resin. But this statement is controversial, because resin has a beneficial effect on health, cleanses the respiratory tract, and strengthens the heart.
Whether or not to sheathe the interior with coniferous wood is up to you - maybe someone in your household doesn’t like the smell of pine needles or vice versa...
If lining was chosen for cladding the bathhouse, then it must be of high quality. Particular attention must be paid external treatment material - there should be no chips, knots or cracks on its surface. The lining should not deform: swell when heated or dry out at normal temperatures.
If wood is not suitable for you as a material for interior decoration of a steam room for some reason, you can give preference to heat-resistant tiles; they have proven themselves well under significant temperature changes.
How to insulate the ceiling and decorate the walls in a bathhouse is shown in the video:
Before finishing, you should protect the ceiling from hot steam. To do this, use aluminum foil or a construction membrane.
Important! Do not use foil with mineral wool or polypropylene foam glued on it. When heated, these materials release toxic substances.
Protecting the ceiling in the bathhouse with aluminum foil Source ko.aviarydecor.com
Definitely yes! Lining made from linden, aspen, cedar, and abashi has become popular due to its properties. It tolerates temperature changes well, high humidity, is aesthetically pleasing, and does not absorb moisture. Cladding made of clapboard has low thermal conductivity - it does not heat up, but transfers heat to the air.
Bath lining is not covered with varnish, antiseptic, or paint; it is used in its natural form.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer bathhouse construction services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
When starting to finish the walls, they solve the issue of insulation and waterproofing. Without such measures, the bathhouse will not last long, and healing procedures will be reduced to simple hygienic ones. For insulation, walls are covered with mineral or basalt wool. The second one is more resistant to high temperatures, so it lasts longer.
Insulation of walls in a steam room with mineral wool Source hvylya.net
Experts consider cork to be the best thermal insulator for bathhouse walls. This agglomerate does not burn, does not rot, and is resistant to fungi and mold.
Craftsmen prefer to install the sheathing and attach the interior trim to it. The popular base size is 50x50, less often they make 70x70. The pitch is not standard and varies depending on the size of the blocks being strengthened.
The sheathing is made of wood, less often of metal. Considering the operating conditions, the metal must be treated with moisture-resistant compounds. The lining or logs are secured with self-tapping screws and nails. They must be copper or brass. The installation of the base is done perpendicular to the sheathing.
Lathing walls in the steam room under the lining Source: seattlehelpers.org
Along the perimeter of the wall and ceiling fix the beam. Fastenings should be every 80–100 cm.
Cut pieces of insulation wool placed between the tree without compacting.
Above covered with a waterproofing agent. The joints are sealed with aluminum tape, Special attention paying attention to the corners.
Equip ventilation. To do this, fill the distance rail. It will provide a small gap (2–3 cm) through which air will be vented.
Do separate upholstery doors and windows.
Fastening the lining. You need to start from the corner, fixing each part vertically. This position will ensure free flow of water. If a horizontal arrangement of blocks is planned, make sure that the spikes are at the top. This will protect the lock from moisture.
Lining located in corners or near walls, cut to the right size . It is especially important to cut the corner block correctly. It is necessary to accurately calculate the angle of inclination so that the adjacent block is correctly fixed.
Insulating the furnace using a metal sheet Source interistroy.ru
metal– stainless steel or profiled iron is mounted on the wall behind the stove;
Red brick– placed between the wall and the fire;
tiles, resistant to high temperatures (kaolin);
mineralite– heat-resistant board made of cement and special components.
Watch the video for step-by-step installation of the lining in the steam room:
Not only comfort, but also safety depends on the choice of raw materials for the floor. Moisture on smooth tiles or linoleum leads to falls and injuries. Installation of such materials will turn the floor into a skating rink. In addition, when heated, linoleum emits an unpleasant odor containing substances harmful to health.
The optimal choice of floor for a steam room is wood. It does not require special coating, and with this design the room will be maintained in uniform style. It is worth noting that the wooden floor in the bathhouse is not made of oak. This wood becomes stronger when wet, but at the same time its surface begins to slip.
Concrete works well. A floor made of such material will be strong and durable. Tiles are laid on top of it, but the structure of the surface of such a coating is important. It should not be glossy; a pronounced relief is necessary. The floor is laid at a slight slope towards the water drainage.
Laying tiles on the floor in a bathhouse Source: seattlehelpers.org
The tiles are laid from the corner, placing crosses between the blocks, tapping with a mounting hammer. After 2-3 days, the seams between the tiles are rubbed down. Wooden grates are placed on top to prevent you from stepping on the cold floor and provide additional safety in case of possible slipping.
A very important point is the shelves in the bathhouse. Since constant tactile contact is assumed with them, increased requirements are put forward for these elements:
they should not get very hot;
it's better if cool down slowly;
must be environmentally friendly;
don't slip and not be very rough;
don't have external damage;
easy to wash.
Again, wood is most suitable for this purpose. Carefully cleaned, without knots or nicks, it has served people in bathhouses and steam rooms for centuries. Shelves should not have sharp corners, which can cause injury. They are not made solid, leaving a small distance between the wooden boards.
The main function of the dressing room is to preserve heat. The temperature in the room is not high, so to decorate the walls in traditional style It is good to use coniferous trees.
Design of the waiting room and rest room “under the tree” Source koon.ru
The interior decoration of the bathhouse made of logs creates an atmosphere of antiquity and ancient fairy tales. A light aroma created by pine, fir, and spruce is appropriate here. The wood of these species resists fungus and mold well. It does not crack after drying and is durable. When heated, fir releases almost no resin.
If hardwood is preferred, experts advise finishing the room with birch. The lining can be laid out not only in even rows, but also in a pattern. It is important that the walls in the room are covered with the same type of wood.
These rooms do not have very high temperatures, although the humidity is as high as in a steam room. The choice of finishes in the bathroom and washroom is more extensive. Fans of bath procedures recommend using natural raw materials for such rooms - wood or stone. Among wood, pine is the leader - it is available material However, with prolonged use it darkens.
An example of a washroom design Source profstroiplotnik.ru
Plastic is acceptable since there is no high temperature, and it tolerates humid air well. You can use regular tiles for the shower.
The rest room should be beautiful and cozy, so the design of the room comes first. It is not necessary to install heat- and moisture-resistant materials here. The relaxation room should be:
easy to care for;
hygienic;
environmentally friendlym;
comfortable;
aesthetic.
For interesting ideas for interior decoration of a bathhouse, watch the video:
The decoration of the relaxation room in the bathhouse, in addition to traditional wood, can be done:
glass wallpaper;
porcelain stoneware;
natural stone;
decorative plaster.
Important! The tree is not installed immediately after delivery to the construction site. It is brought into the room and allowed to stand for a couple of days so that it “gets comfortable” in the bathhouse. After this procedure, the wood is not subject to deformation when heated and high humidity.
Decorating the inside of a bathhouse requires effort and imagination. But, if you do everything correctly and entrust this work to professionals, the bathhouse will last a long time to restore strength and health. All you have to do is choose what kind of decoration the bathhouse will have inside: photos of steam rooms will help you find the best option for style and materials.
What kind of materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And wooden panels are much more pleasing and familiar to the eye. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.
Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.
Along with technical progress, the production of different types of lining has also stepped forward. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.
Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic doesn't hold up high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.
Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there are ventilation channels that prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to , humidity wooden products allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.
wooden lining
The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, and pine.
| Wood | Color | Properties | Photo |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aspen | White, acquires a silvery tint. The yellow growth rings are barely visible. | Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to even hammer a nail into an aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up. |
|
| Linden | Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte shine. | The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up little, and in the steam room it releases aromatic components that are beneficial to health. When in contact with linden wood in a humid environment, the iron oxidizes and rusts, and streaks appear. |
|
| Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar | Brown with a pink tint. | One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack. |
|
| Beige, brown with red shades. It gets darker with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin canals. | Good mechanical properties, toughness, moderate warpage. Does not cause difficulties during processing. It releases resin when heated, so it is not used for covering those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. It is not suitable for covering the ceiling of a steam room or it requires repeated heating of the steam room followed by removal of the resin that has emerged (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bathhouse, it is better to choose Extra-class pine lining. |
|
The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood is big amount knots heat up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.
| Class or variety | Description |
|---|---|
| Extra | Free from cracks, knots and other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even. |
| A or 1 | The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter no more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ panel long, non-through cracks - less than 9.5 cm long (the crack exit is directed towards the end of the panel) that appear when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There may be tars and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 m.p. |
| B or 2 | There are many knots, of which no more than 2 can fall out. by 1 m.p. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long; hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pieces per 1 m.p.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting. |
| C or 3 | The quality is low. Many different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work. |
The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.
All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.
| Profile | Description | Scheme |
|---|---|---|
| Standard | Similar to the classic quarter-plank lining. It has a tongue-and-groove connection, with the tongue being shorter than the groove to prevent deformation. |
|
| Calm or Kolkhoz Woman | It differs from the previous one in its rounded edges and the presence of back side channels to prevent condensation accumulation. |
|
| Manufactured according to DIN 68126 standard. Has an extended tenon. After installing the lining, the wall surface is ribbed. |
|
|
| Soft-line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Shtil lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, relief texture of the wall after assembling the panels. |
|
|
| Used for finishing external walls and rooms. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a tongue-and-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the back side is flat or with channels for ventilation. |
|
For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.
Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of the steam room lining.
We calculate the area of the hallway paneling.
The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of the window and doorways, then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.
The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.
You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed to cover the inner surface of the bathhouse.
The most popular profile size is as follows:
The following tables will help you find out how many square meters of material are in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.
Advice! You should not purchase a lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the sauna lining will have to be completely or partially replaced.
The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bathhouse is horizontal.
Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:
When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, falling coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be dismantled.
Before finishing The walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.
pvc lining
Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's look at the step-by-step process of covering the ceiling.
Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling
The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.
The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. The optimal distance between adjacent slats is from 40 to 60 cm.
Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.
The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.
We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check that the slats are attached correctly using a stretched fishing line/cord or a laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.
In some cases, when you need to do more low ceiling in the bathhouse, metal hangers are used to fasten the lathing.
In this case, first, hangers are fixed to the ceiling using long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.
It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.
Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.
Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling
There is no need to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.
To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.
Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.
On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.
We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).
Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.
Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.
If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.
When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.
There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the batten, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.
We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.
The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.
To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.
Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.
The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls
We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.
We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.
The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.
After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.
For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting step the horizontal bars of the sheathing are attached using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.
Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. To arrange the lining strips horizontally, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and vertical slats on top of them.
It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.
Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls
If lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.
It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, you must leave a gap of 2 cm.
To beautifully decorate the corner, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.
We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions described above).
If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.
We drill holes for the screws, place the board on the sheathing (be sure to have the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, and check that it is horizontal. Screw it into drilled holes self-tapping screws We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.
We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.
When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.
Arrangement of a bath complex requires proper attention to the most insignificant nuances. IN perfect place The bathhouse will become a relaxing place only after a thorough study of the theoretical part and the sequence of actions. And already done with my own hands the work will only enhance the positive effect of receiving bath procedures.
The main feature of the Russian bath is wet steam. To create it, a certain humidity is maintained in the steam room. Humidity and steam balance is achieved by a complete lack of ventilation.
Finish options bath rooms great amount. The choice depends on personal preferences and is limited by financial capabilities. The features of the interior decoration should traditionally be conducive to relaxation and spiritual pleasure. Therefore, the main thing in interior decoration is naturalness, convenience, and minimalism.
For example, an excellent natural decor for a steam room is a natural log house. However, the latest construction technologies require the use of more modern methods of constructing a bathhouse, so structures often require finishing materials.
Additional materials should not negatively affect the basic requirements for the bath:
Properly selected materials will have a positive impact on the functional features of the bathhouse. They will also affect the service life of the walls, floors, and ceilings of the premises. It is important to choose materials of the right quality in accordance with the characteristics of the bath premises.
For example, a steam room is distinguished by the constant presence of hot steam, which comes in a concentrated form and is quite dense. In addition, there are temperature changes in this room, as well as high humidity.
Many materials may not withstand this extreme situation. However, the modern market offers a lot of interesting finishing options that best suit the conditions of the steam room.
The finishing features for the steam room should be as follows:
The washing room involves not only washing, but also relaxation. Classic choice: wood, ceramic tile. For washing, for example, coniferous wood is suitable. It has high water-repellent qualities. In addition, conifers have a beautiful appearance. The floor in this room should have anti-slip properties, as well as a comfortable temperature. Ceramic tiles can help achieve results.
As a reliable material for the vestibule and rest room, you can choose:
Greater aesthetics and practicality can be achieved by combining these finishes. In a bathhouse created with your own hands, it is possible to realize the most non-standard ideas. Select the optimal types of finishes and their variations.
Traditional decoration inside the bathhouse made of wood. The most suitable wooden base for finishing is lining.
These special finishing panels have the main advantages:
The best starting materials for lining are: larch, linden, alder, ash. Hardwood walls warm up faster, while the outside temperature of the walls remains comfortable for human skin.
Unlike conifers, hardwoods do not emit resins, so they are considered harmless for finishing the walls of a steam room.
Pine lining, for example, is not at all suitable for a steam room. When heated, this base will release toxic substances and is also covered with resin, which can drip from the walls and ceiling and cause burns.
Options for the type of finishing “lining” are classy. For example, class C has a low cost and is suitable for finishing vestibule walls. Class B is equipped with contrasting inclusions, cracks, and minor damage. Every 1.5 meters of length of such a lining implies the presence of a certain number of knots. The lining is suitable for the design of a recreation room in natural style, as well as for the vestibule.
Class A lining allows for a little small cracks. However, it does not allow visible cores on the cut. There may be at least one knot per 1.5 meters of length. Class A lining is suitable for finishing the walls of some areas of the steam room.
Premium class lining has an excellent appearance, but the corresponding price. The material can be used to cover the walls of a steam room, relaxation room, or washing room. Linden croaker will serve as an excellent wall decoration. The material does not allow overheating and does not release resins. Linden panels will serve as high-quality sound insulation; they can be supplemented with unedged boards.
For vapor barrier of the steam room, basalt mineral wool and foil in the form of a film are used. Both the walls and the ceiling are sheathed with foil for waterproofing purposes. In order to insulate the stove in the steam room, it is permissible to use brick and salt for finishing.
It is permissible to use Himalayan salt in the bath. A salt bath combines the positive properties of a dry steam room and a healing chamber, providing a beneficial effect on a person.
Work related to finishing the ceiling begins with laying insulation in the attic. To prevent dust from entering the room, all cracks between the boards must be sealed. Brick chips and other bulk options are used as insulation material.
The ceiling of the bathhouse must withstand temperature loads. Finishing materials must resist steam flows. You should not choose materials for finishing the ceiling that emit toxic substances when heated.
Therefore, it is not recommended to use materials such as plywood or chipboard from the inside - they contain sawdust, which is a fire hazard. Do not choose polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam or polyethylene films as insulation; they are afraid of high temperatures.
The building foundations relevant for the bathhouse ceiling are spruce or pine beams for beams and ceilings, not edged board or tongue and groove for the first ceiling, class A or B linden lining - ceiling lining inside. Aluminum foil and membrane films can be used for vapor barrier, and membrane films for waterproofing. You can sheathe the steam room with linden and bast.
Linden croaker with bast is an ideal option for finishing a bathhouse ceiling in a natural style.
The optimal choice for the floor of all rooms of the bath, except for the steam room, is ceramic tiles. A block of tiles in a steam room may be present near the stove. The variety of modern collections will allow you to choose without much difficulty suitable design for a rest room or washing room. At the same time, tiling will not only be comfortable and aesthetically pleasing, but also practical and durable.
The floor of the steam room can be made of concrete or wood. Concrete or stone floors are cold. Therefore, wood is often preferred. Wooden floors require the preparation of a foundation on which beams are laid, and logs are laid on top of them. The voids between beams and joists are filled with insulation, which is expanded clay. A vapor barrier and waterproofing are laid on top of the insulation, then the finishing floor is installed.
A concrete floor requires a foundation made of crushed stone and clay. Roofing felt serves as waterproofing and bitumen mastic. The insulation can be mineral wool or expanded clay. Finishing layer the floor is laid on a heat-insulating surface.
For example, a steam room is considered the real heart of a bathhouse, and therefore its interior should be living, breathing. Synthetic materials are not allowed, especially near the stove. All items in the steam room must be of high quality safety and natural purity.
Combinations of finishing materials such as lining and stone, brick and granite slabs, and block house will look especially designer in the steam room. In addition to beauty, the interior of the steam room must be absolutely safe. Therefore, the design of a steam room is often a compromise of choice. In a steam room, strict curves of the shelves, hidden light, and noble stone behind the stove are effective.
If a separate room for vacationers is designed in the bathhouse, then all the attention in the design is to comfort. The same naturalness comes first here. Curtains with flounces and strict blinds on the windows are appropriate in the design. This bathhouse room is usually compact, but bright.
However, there are no special design requirements. It is desirable that everything be decorated in fairly calm colors, conducive to a comfortable pastime.
A modern bathhouse requires the arrangement of a washing room. Full plumbing fixtures are allowed for installation here. Often this place is a pool of unimaginable shapes. Due to the lack of space for arranging a swimming pool, showers are installed in the washing room. Stylish modern shower stalls will not take up much space, and will fit well into the interior of the bathhouse. It is not even necessary to allocate a separate room for showers.
The internal washing area in the Russian bathhouse was also built around the stove, in the steam room. Simple basins and ladles served as washing objects. Taking into account the possibilities modern materials all this can be implemented in the current bathhouse buildings.
Designer design baths can be interconnected with personal perception of colors and their combinations. This feature depends on the physiological structure of the eyes, the state of the nerves, and life experience. Psychologists say that for women, color has higher value than form, but for men content is more important. At the same time, a person has the ability to associate something with something all the time.
Bathhouse design is a purely individual choice and should be based only on your personal idea of relaxation.
The basis of a Russian bath is a stove. The best materials for a heater – natural stones, bricks.
For floor installation, edged boards are allowed, and the work itself includes several stages.
Step-by-step instruction:
After laying the floor, the walls are covered. A frame base is installed for the cladding. The frame material is timber or simple slats. It is important to consider the load level here. For example, shelves are often attached to walls; the slats will not support them. The direction of the frame base should be perpendicular to the lining.
Guide to work stages:
After covering the verticals, proceed to the ceiling work. Lining is also allowed for the ceiling. An edged board or timber is suitable as a frame. The pitch of the frame corresponds to the size of the insulation boards. The frame is installed similarly to the walls.
Step-by-step instructions:
