Almost every owner of a personal plot grows tasty and healthy peppers in his garden. Since these heat-loving vegetables grow and ripen for a long time, their seeds are sown for seedlings in February or March. Before planting in the ground, seedlings should grow and develop at home for at least two months. So that friendly seedlings appear, and grow good seedling, many gardeners plant pepper seeds according to the lunar calendar in certain numbers and take good care of the plants. We will describe in detail the timing of planting in 2019 and the nuances of caring for seedlings of vegetables in our article. Follow the dedicated link and you can find out when and how to plant and grow these vegetables and flowers.
Ground yielding seeds should be sown during the waxing moon. Since peppers are precisely such plants, it is not recommended to sow them on the days of the Full Moon and New Moon.
According to the lunar calendar, planting peppers for seedlings in 2019 should be carried out on the following dates:
You should refrain from sowing on the following days:
Before planting peppers for seedlings, it is necessary to prepare seeds and soil.
Experienced summer residents advise soaking the seeds before sowing, as this procedure speeds up the emergence of seedlings.
Soaking Pepper Seeds:
Soil for seedlings can be bought at a specialized store or prepared independently. For this you need to prepare:
All ingredients are thoroughly mixed. To destroy fungal spores and pest larvae in the soil, it is recommended to sterilize it in a microwave or oven before use. The hot soil mixture is laid out in seedlings and allowed to cool.
Pepper seeds should be planted to a depth of 1.5-2 cm with a distance of 5 cm from each other. Crops are watered with warm water from a spray bottle and covered with film or glass from above. Seedling boxes are placed in a warm place where the air temperature is not lower than +21 degrees.
Since pepper seedlings do not tolerate a pick, many gardeners plant seeds in peat or disposable small cups.
At home, the emerging shoots are placed in a well-lit place without direct sunlight. The air temperature should be around +26…+28 degrees during the day. At night, plants need colder conditions and temperatures within + 10 ... + 15 degrees.
The soil in the seedlings should be moderately moist at all times. In no case should it be allowed to dry out, otherwise the still small and weak seedlings will wither. However, the soil should not be too wet. In dampness, plants often get sick with a "black leg" and quickly die. For irrigation, only settled warm water is used.
So that the seedlings do not stretch, she may need additional artificial lighting. Light day for peppers should last from 7 am to 9 pm.
In a room with dry air, young plants can be affected by pests. To prevent this, seedlings are recommended to be sprayed daily with settled water.
Picking should be done when two true leaves appear on the shoots. From seedling boxes, plants are transplanted into disposable containers (cups) or peat pots. The size of the cups should be approximately 8x8 cm.
The seedlings are pre-watered and after about an hour, with the help of a fork or a special small spatula, together with a clod of earth, they are transferred to a pot. Seedlings should be buried to the cotyledon leaves. Plants are watered and exposed to a dark place from the sun.
At correct transplant and care, seedlings quickly take root in a new container and grow well. Two weeks after picking, peppers are fed with special fertilizers for seedlings. You can use Fertika Lux, Krepysh, Mortar, Agricola. Re-feeding is carried out two weeks after the first.
10-14 days before planting peppers in open ground, plants begin to harden. To do this, they are taken out every day to outdoor balcony or garden area. The air temperature should not be lower than +13 degrees. Seedlings should not stand in a draft and should not be exposed to direct sunlight. On the first day, the duration of the plants in the open air should not be more than an hour. Every day, the time the seedlings stay in the new conditions increases.
If your site has a greenhouse or greenhouse, and you have grown greenhouse varieties of peppers, then when the seedlings reach the age of at least 55 days and grow to a height of 25 cm, they can be planted. At this time, each plant should already have at least 12 leaves and formed buds in their axils.
When to plant peppers in a greenhouse? Pick up time depends on weather conditions. Land for planting should warm up to a temperature of +15 degrees. Therefore, in Siberia, the Urals and other not very warm regions, vegetables are planted in a greenhouse no earlier than May 15th.
The soil before planting is fertilized with potash-phosphorus fertilizers and watered abundantly.
Planting scheme for peppers:
Plantings are watered, and the soil around them is compacted and sprinkled with peat.
Many summer residents grow varieties of peppers that grow well in open ground. They are planted in the ground when the weather is warm outside and frosts have passed. This usually happens in late May - early June.
You can plant peppers after cucumbers, pumpkins, onions, carrots, zucchini, green manure. After physalis, pepper, tomato, potato and eggplant, peppers cannot be grown.
Bed preparation:
Holes for planting peppers are made with a distance of 40 to 50 cm. The distance between rows should be at least 60 cm. A spoon is added to each hole mineral fertilizer that mixes with the soil.
Watered plants, together with a clod of earth, are taken out of pots and placed in prepared holes. If the seedling grew in peat pots, then everything is placed in the hole together. The roots are covered with earth and watered well. It is necessary to ensure that the root neck of the plants is on the same level with the surface of the earth. The soil around the plantings is covered with mulch in the form of peat.
In some regions, at night until mid-June, the temperature can be below +13 degrees. Peppers like higher temperatures, so it is recommended to cover them at night.
Now you know how and when to plant peppers for seedlings. The future harvest of healthy and tasty sweet peppers depends on the correct sowing, planting and care of seedlings.
Those who love bell pepper know that this southern vegetable can only be grown seedling way. Fortunately, growing pepper seedlings is not as difficult as it seems. This is evidenced by the quite successful practice of our gardeners. The main thing is to follow the generally accepted recommendations, and even such a sensitive and whimsical culture as bell pepper will give a good harvest of tasty and healthy fruits.
Pepper yield largely depends on the variety and quality of seeds. Often they get a low yield just because they sow seeds of unknown varieties, or sow peppers that are not intended for growing in the area. There are many criteria for selecting pepper seeds, and all of them affect the final figure on the yield weights.
If all novice summer residents had information that all varieties have their own fruit ripening periods, then half of the problems that gardeners have on their way to bountiful harvest pepper, could have been avoided.
So, all peppers are divided into:
Early varieties can be cultivated in open ground in the south of the country and in a greenhouse in the north. Peppers, which have a return already at the end of June, it is preferable to grow in the middle latitudes of the country and in Siberia, where, under conditions short summer this vegetable will have time to ripen.
Medium-late and late give a harvest at the end of summer. They have longer and inconsistent fruiting. Planting them is mainly recommended in southern latitudes, since autumn in such regions is milder, and peppers tolerate slightly lower temperatures well.
Bulgarian pepper loves heat very much and does not grow well in cold areas. And therefore best condition for its germination - a greenhouse or greenhouse. But in the south, peppers are also successfully cultivated in open ground. Therefore, on the labels, the manufacturer always indicates in what conditions this or that variety can grow.
If the variety is endowed with strong immunity, tolerates temperature extremes well and has iron resistance, then it can be grown in an open garden. In the greenhouse, mainly those varieties and hybrids are grown that perceive cold snaps and lack of light too sharply. With such varieties, it is better not to risk it and not even try to plant them in an open area.
Choosing a variety of pepper "by the picture" is not the best solution. Initially, preference should be given to other criteria. However, when there is something to mark (that is, you have decided where you will grow peppers and when you want to get a crop), then the last thing left is to choose the most “beautiful” variety.
There are peppers different forms, colors, content. Housewives who like to stuff or preserve peppers usually pay attention to these factors, and therefore they need ideal sizes.
For stuffing, for example, thick-skinned cuboid or cone varieties pepper. For winter preparations, varieties with an average thickness of the skin are suitable.
For summer salads and adding to main dishes, thin-skinned peppers will also fit.
Pepper plants are determinate, semi-determinate and indeterminate. In simple terms, bushes of some varieties grow no more than 50 centimeters in height, while there are giant peppers that can rise to a two-meter mark. Usually undersized and medium-sized peppers are cultivated on open beds. They give small yields. Their fruits are usually medium in size. Fruiting occurs immediately and does not last long.
Tall varieties have a long growing season. They have very high productivity. Fruiting usually begins later than the early ones and bear fruit for several months.
Another important criterion selection of pepper for seedlings. There are pure varieties that are selected naturally and hybrid varieties - obtained by crossing a healthy productive varietal pair.
Varieties and hybrids differ in terms of growing and care. Ordinary varieties adapt faster to conditions environment but get sick more often. Hybrids bring better yields, but react rather hard to adverse conditions.
Moreover, seeds from a regular variety have the same qualities as the mother ones, and therefore they can be sown the next year. Seeds of hybrids do not repeat maternal properties.
It is quite troublesome to grow healthy pepper seedlings at home. Bell pepper reacts sharply to the regularity of watering, ambient temperature, the amount of nutrients. But first of all, you need to correctly determine the timing of sowing pepper seeds for seedlings. A properly planned day will determine the entire future life of the pepper and will affect the number of fruits harvested.
When planning the planting date, one should take into account the climatic features of the region in which the vegetable is cultivated, the timing of the ripening of the pepper variety, as well as the growing conditions (greenhouse or open ground). If all conditions satisfy the requirements for the good development of such a difficult vegetable as pepper, then a rich harvest will be ensured.
It usually takes 55 to 65 days for young shoots to develop roots and aerial parts to such an extent that planting on the site will not harm them in any way. Based on this, the last days of February or the first half of March are considered the traditional dates for sowing seeds for seedlings.
Fact: pepper seeds have good germination only for the first three years. Then they become obsolete, and their productivity is catastrophically reduced.
Correctly choose the day of sowing will help information about the timing of ripening of a particular variety. Early varieties with a short growing season should be sown 65 days before planting in the ground. Mid-season seeds are sown in 65-70 days, and late-ripening ones in 75 days.
If you do not guess with the timing and plant the seedlings a little earlier, then, most likely, it will greatly outgrow. Well, if you are late with planting, then this will affect the proper development of plants and reduce fruiting.
Moreover, it is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the area and understand when to plant seedlings in the garden. In the south of Russia, seedlings should “ripen” for the street by May. And in the northern part of the country it is still cold in May, so peppers should wait until the beginning of June for landing on the garden. With this in mind, a backlog of seeds is produced. If, in your area, there is still snow in May, then the planting dates should be shifted by at least two weeks.
Optimal landing dates depending on the region:
When planning the sowing date for seedlings of vegetable seeds, many summer residents rely on the lunar sowing calendar, in which, taking into account the phases of the moon, favorable and bad days for earthworks. According to research, pepper seedlings grow better during the waxing moon. These days in 2018 include:
Unfavorable days for sowing:
Please note: the days considered favorable for planting pepper seedlings in open ground are: in May - 8, 14, 15, 24 and 25; in June - 2, 11 and 20 numbers.
It's no secret that a rich harvest can only be obtained from high-quality seeds. The main qualities of seeds are purity, germination, vitality. Therefore, it is worth paying maximum attention to the seed material.
Seed quality indicators:
In any case, pre-sowing preparation of seeds will bring everyone to "clean water". With the help of various methods, it is possible to slightly increase all the indicators of seed quality described above and improve the result of seedling germination.
Tip: do not use all methods at once. One or two is enough.
Pre-sowing seed treatment includes:
Please note: germinated seeds must be sown in wet ground otherwise they will dry out and die.
The yield of horticultural crops largely depends on the quality of the soil used. The soil substrate should be light, loose and nutritious. The earth mixture is prepared from various components that meet all the requirements for the successful growth of seedlings.
The soil for pepper seedlings should include sifted compost (you can also use peat or sand) in half with humus. Two cups of ash are added to a bucket of the mixture. Microelements must be present in the soil substrate. To do this, add soddy soil to the mixture or replace it with superphosphate fertilizers (60 grams per bucket) and potassium sulfate (20 grams).
Before sowing, the land must be disinfected, as often harmful microorganisms remain in its pores, which are activated in a humid and warm environment. They can destroy the crop even at the stage of seed germination. To do this, the earth is spilled with boiling water with the addition of potassium permanganate or calcined in the oven at high temperature.
Tip: we also recommend decontaminating the soil mixture bought in the store.
Sowing seeds is a simple process. Pre-landing preparation, which takes a lot of time and effort, delivers great difficulties. When a suitable variety is finally selected, seeds are processed and high-quality land is prepared, the turn comes to choosing a suitable container for seedlings.
Pepper is a light-loving crop, it requires a lot of free space and light, and therefore pepper containers are selected taking into account the “wishes” of the vegetable. Usually used as a nursery large wooden boxes standard size(50 * 35 * 8 centimeters), but it is better, of course, to use individual containers, such as plastic or paper cups, peat tablets.
The containers are thoroughly washed with a manganese solution so that there is no trace of harmful microorganisms on the walls. Having prepared containers, proceed to sowing seeds
Seeding instructions:
Please note: on light soils, the seeds are sown deeper, on heavy soils - smaller.
Important: seeds of different varieties are sown in different nurseries, since each variety has individual characteristics both seed germination and seedling germination.
Landings are covered with a film or a transparent cover to create greenhouse effect. The optimum temperature for seed germination is + 22-25 degrees. Humidity - 80%.
You can grow pepper seedlings different ways, based on the capabilities of the gardener. All of them have howling nuances, but in general they do not differ in the complexity of the process of sowing and further care.
Ways to plant pepper seedlings:
Fact: since peppers do not tolerate picking, it is better to choose methods for growing seedlings without picking.
The classic method involves sowing seeds in a common nursery. For seedling germination, an earthen mixture is taken, well moistened. Seeds are sown in heaps, not particularly observing large intervals. When the sprouts germinate and leaves appear on them, the seedlings swoop down, rejecting weak and lifeless sprouts.
Peppers are usually dived into separate cups or pots. However, you can also choose a common capacity with larger volumes. Seating is done in a checkerboard pattern so that each bush receives the necessary amount of light and is better ventilated.
One of the most efficient and easily accessible growing methods is in cassettes.
The easiest way is to get a hotbed, divided into many separate cells. So, the seedlings will grow on the one hand in one container, and on the other hand, each seedling will be in a separate cell. Sprouting peppers this way produces very healthy, stocky seedlings. Sowing is done with one or two seeds in each cassette. Then the weaker germ can be easily removed. Deepen the seeds as well as in the classic version, to a depth of 1 centimeter.
Growing in a separate container, the seedlings quickly rise, as they are not constrained by the close proximity of other shoots. The temperature for germinating seedlings in cassettes should be at least +25 degrees. With the growth of seedlings, the tray in the cassettes can be moved away so that the roots can grow freely.
Watering in such containers is carried out "under the bottom", that is, pouring water into the pan, and not on top of the plant
If there is a desire, and most importantly, an opportunity (since the method requires certain monetary costs), you can sow the seeds in peat tablets. The tablet is a compressed peat, which swells when moistened and increases in size. The method of growing in a peat tablet avoids the dive procedure, as the grown seedlings are transplanted into larger containers right in this very tablet.
Please note: for seedlings of pepper, tablets with diameters of 40 millimeters are suitable.
The tablets are placed in one large container (to make it easier to care for), well spilled with water so that they take the desired shape. From above, one grain is placed in the recess, sinking 0.5 centimeters. The container with the tablets is placed in a warm and bright place. To prevent moisture from evaporating quickly from peat, the nursery is covered with a film on top. Before germination, the greenhouse is regularly ventilated so as not to inadvertently provoke the development of fungus or mold. Water the tablets in a grassroots way. When the sprouts hatch, the film is removed. At the stage of the appearance of the first leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate cups, as already mentioned, without removing the sprouts from the mother's nest, but planting them in the soil directly in the tablet.
Tip: in order not to transplant seedlings into larger containers, sow the seeds immediately in large peat tablets, up to 7 centimeters in diameter.
This method is suitable when there is no space for large seedling boxes in the apartment. Seeds are sown on ribbons of toilet paper. The technology of this germination method is very simple and involves a minimum of costs.
Advantage this method that the dive of seedlings is painless. All that is required is to unroll the roll and remove the sprouts from it, placing it in a container with soil.
The disadvantage of growing seedlings in the "snail" is that the seedlings, being in cramped conditions of twisting, receive less light, and therefore grow thin, weak, often get sick.
Tip: Sprinkle a layer when sowing toilet paper ordinary garden soil. So the seeds, and then the shoots, will receive a good portion of the beneficial microorganisms found in the soil.
So, the sowing of the seeds is done. From this day on, a tedious period of waiting for seedlings begins for the gardener, which lasts an average of 7 to 10 days. As soon as the surface "turns green", the film is removed from the boxes, and the seedlings are placed in the brightest place in the apartment, preferably on the windowsill on the south side of the house.
Properly set temperature is the key to the proper development of plants. As already mentioned, for seed germination, an elevated temperature is required, up to +25 degrees. After germination, the temperature is lowered. During the day it is + 18-20 degrees, and at night - 14-16 degrees. Such a temperature regime will help to avoid stretching of the shoots, and at the same time it will favorably influence the development of the root system.
Please note: if the room is too hot and there is little light, then the above-ground part quickly becomes thinner and fades. Such plants quickly weaken, they are more susceptible to diseases, and their root system lags behind in development. This is not a quality pepper seedling.
Please note: the temperature can be lowered by opening the windows. However, cold air flow should not be allowed to enter the seedlings.
Seedlings should never grow in the shade. The shadow for her is fatal. The minimum amount of light during the day should be at least 12 hours. You can “get” the right amount of daylight time under conditions of short daylight hours (if crops, for example, were made in early March or late February) using special phytolamps or conventional fluorescent lamps. Abundantly bathed in the rays of the sun, plants form stronger stems and strong leaves.
Please note: the light source must be installed no closer than half a meter from the nursery.
Young seedlings are watered only with warm settled water in the early morning. The soil will tell you that it is time to water - it should be slightly dry, but not overdried, without the formation of an earthen crust. Watering is usually carried out every 4 days by sprinkling.
After water procedures, the earth is slightly loosened so that it does not crumple and compact. It is very important for wildly growing roots to receive enough moisture and oxygen.
Please note: loosening must be carried out very carefully, inadvertently without damaging the roots, which, in case of injury, inhibit the growth of the plant.
At the age of two weeks, when the seedlings acquire the first leaves, the seedlings dive. This is necessary in order, firstly, to reduce the risk of damage to the roots of various diseases that quickly spread to neighboring plantings. Secondly, the grown plants are already cramped in a common container and they need more free space for further full development.
Diving takes place in small containers (usually plastic cups) filled with fresh nutrient substrate. Some summer residents advise not to deepen the bush when planting plants in a new place. But the experience of others suggests that peppers can be planted in the ground up to the cotyledon leaves.
The bushes are planted in well-moistened soil. The soil in which the seedling is located is also well shed so that it is easier to pull the plant out of the ground without damaging the roots. It is not necessary to pick up large containers for diving: pepper develops very slowly, and therefore the most suitable container is a pot of 150 milliliters. In a small space, the plant will develop better than in excess land.
Please note: containers (cups) with seedlings should be kept at a distance from each other, so that the leaves of neighboring plants do not touch. Pepper seedlings do not like close proximity.
Picked seedlings in the first days need to be provided optimum temperature for quick rooting - 20-22 degrees of heat during the day and not lower than 14 degrees at night. The temperature is then raised slightly.
Before planting pepper permanent place, seedlings are fed at least twice:
In the seedling period, it is important to use liquid fertilizers, which are better absorbed into the soil and absorbed faster. It is best to use complex fertilizers, including both organic substances and minerals.
For fast and normal plant growth after transplantation, top dressing consists of a solution of urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfide.
Healthy seedlings are, first of all, healthy seeds. Seeds should be young (up to three years old), large, of the same size, stuffed. From such seed material early shoots appear, already after 7-10 days. The first to appear on the stems are a pair of cotyledon leaves that resemble a two-bladed screw.
A week later, healthy shoots are overgrown with two real, fully opened leaves. And in 6-8 days another pair will appear. By the end of the third week, properly developing seedlings will grow on stems with three pairs of drop-shaped leaves opposed to each other.
Reference: one pair of leaves appears per week. By their number, one can judge the age of the seedlings.
If the seedlings receive the optimal amount of light and water, they live in a room with comfortable temperature, then by the end of the first month of its life, healthy seedlings should have 3-4 pairs of leaves and one pair of cotyledon leaves located at the top of the plant. The stem of the shoots is erect, bright green, juicy, stocky. It has no damage and no visible painful signs of disease or insect damage. The height of the bush is 4 centimeters.
At the time of planting in the ground, seedlings have an age of 55 to 65 days. By this time, young plants grown under conditions good care, overgrown with large elastic leaves of saturated green color. The green crown should be well developed and several times larger than the volume of the stem.
The central trunk is strong (up to 4 millimeters in diameter), durable, holds well dense foliage. Its color is green, slightly visible purple hue. The stem passes into the root neck without bending. Internodes are formed compactly.
The juicy color of the leaves indicates that the plant receives the optimal amount of nutrients. But the fading of color, the appearance of spots or wilting indicates a vitamin hunger.
Healthy seedlings, as a rule, have a well-developed branching root system. Roots, consisting of numerous white roots, abundantly braid the earth in a pot. Taking the seedlings out of the container during transplantation, the earth ball is firmly attached to the roots, while the earth quickly crumbles from a weak rhizome. Such seedlings will take root in open ground for a long time.
Mature seedlings of pepper have a height of 20-30 centimeters and up to 10-12 leaves, and perhaps an already formed bud. If an early variety is grown, then flowering has already appeared on the bushes. On medium-late and late varieties, which will begin to bear fruit only in the second half of summer, there will be no inflorescences yet, only 9-12 leaves.
As mentioned above, the optimal age of seedlings for planting in the garden is considered to be its two-month-old age. In most regions of our country, such a heat-loving crop as pepper is cultivated in a greenhouse or under film cover. Without a film, peppers ripen much longer.
It is important to "catch" the right moment for planting seedlings, otherwise all the work spent on many days of caring for seedlings may be wasted. And all because, for example, the landing date will be missed. Overgrown seedlings take root very poorly to new ones. street conditions. The bushes get sick for a long time: the leaves wither and turn yellow, and the flowers and ovaries can generally fall off.
Tip: if you plant flowering seedlings in the ground, then it is better to remove the first flowers from it, otherwise there will be few ovaries.
In general, transplanting old seedlings into the ground can provoke problems that were hidden during the seedling period. So, it happens that the planted seedlings do not bloom, although they should already. Perhaps the plant did not develop well, being in the cramped space of the pot. And as soon as he was given freedom, having landed on a garden bed, he put all his strength into building up roots and green mass, and not into flowering. As a result, the first harvest will be obtained much later.
Peppers are transferred to the greenhouse in mid-May. In the open ground much later - only in the first days of June. These dates are due to the unstable weather of the off-season. Night frosts and daytime cooling can have a detrimental effect on plantings. Therefore, it would be wiser to play it safe and not rush to plant pepper.
Tip: such a heat-loving crop as sweet pepper, which grows well only at a temperature of +27 degrees, is best grown in a greenhouse. And only the south of the country can “boast” of weather suitable for growing pepper in the open field.
To be honest, open ground is not the most the best place for growing bell peppers. The scorching sun, strong wind, unexpected temperature drop - in these conditions, a good harvest can not be expected. In addition, it is slightly important for pepper high humidity, which can only be controlled in a greenhouse. Therefore, if it is not possible to grow peppers in a greenhouse, then temporary film shelters are installed on the beds, which are removed only by the end of June, when the pepper bushes grow enough to endure the hardships of street life. During the heat, the film is removed, and on cool days, it is securely closed so that there is no draft.
Pepper seedlings are very tender. Any external factor, whether it be temperature or altered soil composition, can irrevocably ruin young plants. Therefore, an obligatory stage of cultivation healthy seedling its hardening is considered, which begins two weeks before landing on the garden.
Hardening is the accustoming of pepper seedlings to outdoor conditions (natural temperature, humidity, soil). The hardening process includes a gradual decrease in the temperature in the room where the seedlings are located. Lower it daily by one degree. If the weather is warm outside, not lower than 13 degrees Celsius, then boxes with young seedlings are taken out to the veranda or balcony so that they are “enveloped” with fresh air. In this case, the main thing is not to overdo it and not accidentally freeze the seedlings. Walks start from 30 minutes a day. Every day, the amount of time spent outside is slightly increased (depending on the air temperature outside). You need to expose peppers in sunny, calm places, since drafts and cold winds are detrimental to plants.
Years of experience shows that seedlings of pepper (and other solanaceous crops) hardened in this way tolerate planting in the ground almost painlessly. It looks healthier and stronger, is reliably protected from diseases and brings an earlier harvest.
The day before transplanting, the seedlings are watered abundantly so that the moisture is well evenly distributed at the depth of the soil. Pepper beds are arranged in sunny, quiet areas away from other nightshade beds.
Bulgarian pepper feels good in loose and light soil. In heavy soil, plants will slow down their development. To lighten the soil, when touching the beds, peat or river sand. All lumps are carefully broken so that they do not interfere with the plant "coming out" of the ground. Do not forget about fertilizers, which are ash, humus and superphosphate.
Wells for peppers are arranged at intervals of 40-45 centimeters from each other. Thickened planting is detrimental to plants. It is best to plant seedlings in a checkerboard pattern so that each plant receives an abundant amount of sunlight and well ventilated.
Pepper bushes are taken out of the seedling container along with a clod of earth, without damaging the overgrown roots. The plant is not deepened much, leaving the root neck above the surface. Cover the sprout with dry earth and lightly tamp the earth.
Properly grown seedlings after planting, as a rule, do not get sick. The bushes will noticeably get stronger in a few days and continue their development, growing more and more green every day and forming numerous ovaries.
Beds under peppers close up different ways. There are at least four of them. Each of them is used depending on the size of the plot and the proximity to other beds.
Important: when planting pepper seedlings, remember that hot and sweet pepper varieties cannot be placed next to each other. The thing is, they tend to over-pollinate. Therefore, in the end, you risk getting fruits of a completely different taste. Sweet peppers, for example, will take on a bitter note.
The classic scheme for planting peppers is an ordinary one. The bottom line is that a long bed is created with a width of 1 meter (row spacing up to 60 centimeters). Two peppers are placed across the width of the bed. After 40-50 centimeters, two more peppers are planted. And so along the garden.
Please note: planting density depends on the type of bush. So tall plants are placed up to 3-4 pieces per square meter. Undersized plants are planted thicker - up to 8 units per square.
The square-nest planting method involves planting pepper seedlings in separate holes (nests) 60 * 60 in size, 2-3 bushes at once. Such a close proximity of bushes helps to escape from the scorching sun on hot days. Square-nested planting of pepper is used mainly in southern latitudes.
Fact: it has been proven that the denser the planting, the more mineral fertilizers and water should be applied.
Not less than known way planting seedlings of pepper - in a checkerboard pattern. Scheme: 30*30 or 50*50. Many gardeners are sure that with such an arrangement of plants, each of them receives comfortable conditions for living. Bushes placed in a checkerboard pattern do not shade each other, take the optimal amount of nutrition from the ground, they get more moisture. The result is abundant quality crops.
Please note: when choosing a planting method, you need to consider how watering will be done. Drip irrigation is appropriate for a row planting pattern. Sprinkling is suitable for other options for placing plants in the garden.
Sweet pepper is often called Bulgarian. This heat-loving crop has become so popular that many amateur gardeners grow it on their plots. The yield of peppers can be significantly increased if you start sowing seeds for seedlings in winter.
Peppers have a long development period, which is why early sowing of seeds is so important. I start seeding with . Specific terms depend on the variety and the place where the bell pepper will continue to grow and bear fruit. I sow hot peppers simultaneously with sweet ones, observing important condition: there must be different capacities. I have three options further cultivation peppers. This is an unheated greenhouse (with), a greenhouse (with lutrasil and plastic wrap) and flower pots, which I put in sunny places protected from the wind near the house. Some peppers (for example,) can grow and bear fruit well on balconies and window sills.
Problems with growing sweets and hot pepper there are no seedlings. Especially if additional lighting with phytolamps is possible. On sale you can find budget options luminaires with various mounts. Convenient "clothespins" that will be strengthened on both sides above the windowsill. Some fit too table lamps with fasteners. I turn on the backlight only in the evenings.
Most of my February seedlings do not suffer from a lack of light, because the planting containers with it are on a high table under the southwest side of the house. The difficulty lies only in the regular cleaning of glass from snow.
I do not use ready-made lunar calendars for gardeners and gardeners. They are often very superficial and often contradict each other. If I have time, I do the math myself. However, the most important thing I consider the desire and attitude to start sowing. Several times I conducted experiments related to the sowing of seeds of tomatoes and peppers on forbidden days in absolutely everything. lunar calendars for gardeners. They did not confirm the significant influence of the Moon and the Sun on the development of crops, their fruiting and crop quality. Even sowing during eclipses, new moons and full moons was successful if I wanted to tinker with the earth. But this does not prevent me from sometimes checking the dates of sowing with astrology. Most likely for insurance purposes.
Now for specific dates. In some years, I started sowing peppers at the end of January, although I usually start sowing from February 7th. Such an early date allows you to collect the first peppers in early July. The total harvest for the summer is much greater than with a later planting. Especially when it comes to mid-season and late-ripening varieties. My many years of experience confirms: peppers and eggplants need to extend their growing season. Well, when they begin to bear fruit in our homes at the stage of growing seedlings.
An important condition for this is a sufficient volume of planting containers and nutritious soil. Then the gardener will be pleased not only with the first buds and flowers, but also with the ovaries. Even fruit-bearing seedlings, carefully transplanted into the garden without damaging the earthy coma, endure this without any problems. Especially when a little earth is poured into the planting hole, to which the peppers are accustomed. Perhaps this is superfluous, but I consider this technique as a kind of amulet for peppers.
Many publications give the optimal timing for sowing pepper seeds for seedlings. It's believed that early varieties it takes only 60 days from the moment of germination for the seedlings to be considered "condition". Mid-season and late varieties enough about 75 days. Picks add ten more days to these terms. This means that when planting seedlings in late May - early June, they start sowing seedlings at.
With this approach, we fail to get the harvest that can be harvested with more early dates sowing seeds for seedlings.
Presowing treatment of seeds slightly accelerates the appearance of "loops". For growing seedlings, I select large seeds without obvious damage. They can be sown dry if there is confidence in the safety.
Pepper seeds are well disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate purple. I keep a gauze bag with seeds in it for about 20 minutes, after which I rinse it in running water. I do not dry it, put it on germination or sow wet.
Some gardeners keep the seeds in other solutions, believing that they not only disinfect them, but also activate the growth energy. To do this, take a very weak solution of hydrogen peroxide (a teaspoon per glass of water), aloe juice diluted with water, a daily infusion and soaking agents such as a growth stimulator. Energen", microbiological preparation" Fitosporin-M", fertilizer " Raikat Start" and " Ideal».
A familiar gardener who has an aquarium advises holding a gauze bag with pepper seeds for at least a few hours along with fish in air bubbles under the aerator. Most likely, he is right, because his peppers grow excellent.
The issue of picking is associated with the timing of sowing seeds for seedlings, because transplanting seedlings slows down their growth for some time. Peppers are not very fond of different interventions. Proponents of growing seedlings without picking recommend immediately sowing two or three seeds in one pot, and then removing the weak ones, leaving only one seedling.
I sow peppers in common planting containers. At the stage of two true leaves, I select the number of the strongest seedlings I need. About a month later, carefully, without damaging the root ball, I dive them into fairly voluminous (about 500 ml) individual pots. In them, pepper seedlings develop well until they are planted on the site.
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Growing pepper is in many ways similar to tomato care - after all, both of these crops belong to the nightshade family. They need special care; growing them in Russian latitudes is not a problem, and therefore such vegetables are very popular. But still, there are some subtleties in this matter - and we will tell in this article when to plant pepper for seedlings, how to properly care for it and how to prepare it for planting in a permanent place.
But some novice gardeners rightly ask the question: why not just throw the seeds into the ground? Well, you can experiment: if you just do this, the pepper will ripen as much as 20 days later than if you grew it through seedlings. And it is not a fact that all plants will survive until this time.
Planting seeds traditionally begins at the end of February. If you have good greenhouse– then it can be earlier. Also at home, everything can be organized even in winter, but then specially purchase fluorescent lamps for additional illumination.
As for the choice of seeds, initially decide what exactly you are going to grow. If these are large-fruited peppers with thick pulp, then take varieties such as "Winnie the Pooh", "California Miracle" and the like. But for conservation, such varieties as "Merchant" and "Topolin" are more suitable. Also pay close attention to the expiration date of the seeds - the longer it is, the worse, and then you will wonder why, with all the careful care, the sprouts grew so frail.
For greater confidence, fill the seeds with warm salt water - take half a teaspoon of salt per glass. Mix well, and after 7-8 minutes drain the water along with what will float on its surface. But we leave the drowned ones to ourselves - wash them and dry them on thick paper.
So, when should you sow a vegetable? Let's put it this way: for central Russia, this is the end of February - the beginning of March. To the south - earlier, to the north - a little later.
The simplest soil recipe for growing is this: a bucket of garden soil + a bucket of compost + a bucket of black peat + a glass of ash. And it’s even easier to buy ready-made soil for growing in a store. Fill containers with soil from height. Lightly compact by hand and water generously.
Choose from available best seeds: purely visual, just throwing away the deformed and dried. The rest lay out several times folded gauze, wrap and place for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate. The color of the latter should be bright.
To “activate” a vegetable for good growth, you can soak its seeds for half an hour in such solutions:
Such sowing will allow you to get the first sprouts in a week!
Some tips from an experienced gardener:
You can soak the seeds like this: hold for 20 minutes in water (40 ° C), and then wrap in a damp cloth until the roots appear. Next, prepare a container for growing seedlings: glasses, boxes, cassettes or boxes. Fill them with soil and pour with a solution of potassium permanganate. With your fingers, make holes up to 1.5 cm deep, so that the distance between them is about 4 cm. Place two grains in each such hole and sprinkle with earth. Do not water, just cover with cling film and place in a warm place.
By the way, not everyone puts seedlings in a dark corner at first - some experienced gardeners believe that it is not normal for a sprout that has just sprouted to struggle to start looking for at least a drop of light. Handle germinated seeds very carefully, plant carefully and with the root only down.
After 10-14 days, shoots will appear, and then the sprouts will need to be immediately placed in a bright place and watered. Feed with mineral fertilizers from time to time. Water the soil well, but do not allow stagnation. Water the plant with water at room temperature, preferably melted water. This should be done regularly, because peppers, unlike tomatoes, do not tolerate drought well. Spraying the plants from time to time also does not hurt.
It is desirable that the peppers are still illuminated - otherwise the sprouts will stretch. Most importantly, do not let the cold, it is extremely poorly tolerated by seeds. Keep seedlings only in a bright and warm room, at a temperature strictly in the range of 21-28 ° C. If it drops to 13°C, the pepper will stop growing.
But vegetables do not like diving - they can even seriously slow down development. Therefore, it is better to immediately plant them in a normal container, one seed in each cup. But, if there is no other option, do a pick as soon as you notice three leaves on the plants - this will already be the 15th or 20th day after the first shoots appear. You need to dive the vegetable into more free containers with moistened soil, and then put all the seedlings in the shade for a few days - to come to your senses.
Do it this way: before transplanting, water the sprouts well so that all the clods of earth are then wet. After all, dry earth easily falls apart, and just as easily tears thin roots.
And now let's make sure that the future harvest pleases with volume - carefully cut off the very first flowers. So the plant will no longer spend all its energy on a single fruit, but will invest in full first in the development of the bush. You need to feed the grown sprouts every 7-10 days.
Well, as soon as the last frosts have passed, you can safely plant the plant in the ground. You can find out that she is ready for this by the number of leaves - there should be 7-8 pieces. Remember: pepper does not tolerate even partial shade, and therefore plant it only in the warmest and sunniest places. After all, this sweet and juicy fruit comes from warm countries, and therefore will never stop loving the sun and warmth.
So, it’s not a complicated technology at all and simple conditions- and you can independently grow strong and productive seedlings of homemade pepper. Try it!
No matter what kind of activity you are engaged in, it is important for everyone to achieve maximum success in it. In recent years, one often comes across in various fields, including gardening, with such a concept as favorable or unfavorable lunar days. It was introduced into our everyday life by astrologers who claim that an enterprise started on a favorable day will be successful and vice versa, if you start some process on an unfavorable day for this, the result will most likely be negative.
AT recent times all more people refers to astrological predictions, and the point here is not superstition, but a scientific approach, because the influence of the phases of the moon on all life on Earth has long been known. This also explains the reasons for such popularity of lunar sowing calendars among gardeners.
Thanks to the sowing calendar you will know the shifts lunar phases, which determine the size and quality of your crop. An experienced vegetable grower or summer resident will never plant plants on a full moon or a new moon, since during these periods all the juices are collected either at the top or, respectively, in the roots or tubers, and this interferes with the normal development of plants. But if the pepper, which will be discussed in our article, is planted during the growing moon, its growth activity will be much higher than when planting pepper during the waning moon. So, when to sow pepper seedlings?
Auspicious dates for sowing pepper seedlings in 2019 are:
When to plant seedlings of pepper in open ground?
In June, favorable days for this: 15, 21-24; in July: 20-22, 25, 26.
Pepper ripens 100-150 days after germination, but it is possible to accurately calculate the timing of sowing pepper for seedlings only if you know the characteristics of the variety. For example, early-ripening pepper is sown 65 days before planting seedlings in a permanent place, mid-season - 70 days, late - 75 days.
The soil for pepper seedlings should be loose, nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (pH 6-6.5) and sterile. You can buy ready-made soil in garden stores or prepare the desired soil mixture yourself.
Here are some recipes for suitable soil for pepper seedlings:
Any soil mixture must be disinfected before fertilizing it.
Coated seeds, enclosed in a capsule, which includes a growth stimulator and various fertilizers, preparation for sowing is unnecessary and even harmful, because when soaking the seeds, their capsule is damaged.
Ordinary seeds are first kept in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection: dilute one gram of the drug in 100 ml of water and dip the seeds into the solution for 20 minutes.
After seed disinfection, to increase productivity, they are placed in a growth stimulator solution, for example, Epin, prepared in accordance with the instructions, or placed in a solution of mineral fertilizers for 4-5 hours. After this treatment, the seed is washed in clean water and sown wet.
Some gardeners prefer to sparge the seeds by placing them in a gauze bag and lowering them into water through which air is passed through a compressor. The duration of this procedure is 4-5 hours.
But most often they resort to seed germination. They are wrapped in wet gauze or cloth, placed in heat and made sure that the cloth does not dry out. To do this, it is better to put the wrapped seeds on a saucer and place it under polyethylene. Do not soak the seeds in water They need oxygen in addition to water to germinate. Germination is best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC. However, germinated seeds have a significant drawback - tender sprouts are easily broken off during sowing, so we recommend that you disinfect the seeds in potassium permanganate with their further processing in a growth stimulator.
Since pepper recovers for a very long time after picking, sowing pepper for seedlings is carried out in separate pots or cups with a diameter of 10 cm and a depth of 10-12 cm. in pots with a large clod of earth. The depth of such a box should be at least 5-6 cm, and the soil level should not reach the edge of the container by 2 cm. Do not forget to rinse the dishes in a solution of potassium permanganate before sowing.
Pepper seeds are laid out with tweezers on the soil surface at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other, pressed to the substrate, moistened through a sieve or by the method of bottom irrigation, after which they are sprinkled with a layer of soil 1 cm thick on top, which is then slightly compacted. Cover crops with plastic wrap or glass.
Good pepper seedlings are obtained when grown in peat tablets, since this crop does not tolerate picking very well - after transplanting, the seedlings do not start growing for a long time.
The seeds are sown in tablets with a diameter of 3 cm: the required number of tablets is placed in a transparent tray and filled with warm boiled water for swelling. As soon as the tablets stop absorbing water, pour out the excess from the tray, make holes 1-1.5 cm deep in the upper part of the tablets, carefully place the seeds prepared in the described way into the recesses and close them on top nutrient soil. Cover the tray with a transparent lid, glass or plastic wrap. Germinate seeds at a temperature of 25 ºC.
The first shoots appear within a week, and then the cover is removed from the crops, the tray is transferred to a bright place and kept at a temperature of 25-27 ºC during the day and 11-13 ºC at night. When the seedlings develop 2-4 leaves, and the roots begin to sprout through the net, the seedlings are planted directly in tablets in separate pots filled with one of the soil mixtures described above.
Now on sale big choice plastic cassettes, in which it is very convenient to grow pepper seedlings - there are 18x13.5x6 cm cassettes for four seedlings with 8x6 cm cells and a volume of 240 ml each. There are cassettes of the same size, but for six cells, for nine and for twelve. And there are cassettes in a box with a lid that transmits light well, but does not allow moisture to evaporate - they can be used as mini-greenhouses.
A soil mixture suitable for peppers or peat tablets is placed in the cells, seeds are sown, then the crops are covered with a transparent material, the cassette is placed on a plastic tray and kept at a temperature of about 25 ºC. Humidification is carried out by the method of bottom irrigation - water is poured into the pan.
If you do not want or cannot grow seedlings, you will have to purchase it, and it is better to buy planting material in nurseries, specialized stores or garden pavilions - there you are more likely than in the market to buy exactly what you want and get answers to questions about seedlings. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to purchase seedlings from well-established sellers and you have to go to the market for it.
What you need to know when buying seedlings? The leaves of the seedlings should be developed, green and evenly colored - without white spots or plaque. Seedlings should be strong and strong, not elongated and drooping.
Unfortunately, unscrupulous sellers use various tricks to sell their goods, and as a result, you can get seedlings, overfed nitrogen fertilizers or vice versa, growth inhibitors. Such seedlings then bloom poorly, develop poorly and bear fruit unimportantly, but you are unlikely to be able to recognize this catch in the market. That is why it is better to buy good seeds from a trusted manufacturer and grow seedlings on their own.
It is not so easy to maintain the temperature regime necessary for the development of seedlings of peppers in an apartment, but you should know that under the ceiling the air temperature is a couple of degrees higher than at an average height, and at the baseboard - two to three degrees lower. The brightest place in the apartment is the window sill, but it is also the coldest, and the seedlings need warmth.
If you can arrange artificial lighting for seedlings, you can grow them where they will be warmer.
At a temperature of 26-28 ºC, pepper seeds germinate on the eighth to twelfth day, at a temperature of 20-26 ºC, seedlings can appear in 13-17 days, at 18-20 ºC - after 18-20 days, and at 14-15 ºC you can wait for the emergence of seedlings not earlier than in a month.
As soon as shoots appear, the crops are moved as close as possible to the light, the temperature is lowered to 15-17 ºC for a week, and subsequently the seedlings are kept at 22-25 ºC in daytime and at 20 ºC at night.
Do not forget to regularly ventilate the room, but keep in mind that the seedlings are afraid of drafts and cold air.
The first two or three days, the emerging shoots are not watered, but if the soil requires moisture, it is carefully sprayed from the sprayer. As soon as the cotyledon leaves open, the seedlings are watered with thirty-degree water. In the future, seedlings are moistened by rain or settled during the day. tap water room temperature.
The soil of seedlings should not dry out - pepper is hard to tolerate drought, but excess moisture in the roots should not be allowed.
Keep in mind that in a small container, the soil loses moisture faster than in a large one. The humidity in the room is maintained at 60-70%.
For the development of the root system of seedlings, they are fed with potassium humate, diluting 5 ml of the drug in two liters of water. Before bookmark flower buds pepper seedlings develop very slowly, then their growth becomes more intense, and during the flowering period, pepper seedlings are fertilized with such a composition containing trace elements: 1 g of manganese sulfate and iron sulfate or citrate, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate are dissolved in 10 liters of water and copper sulfate and 1.7 g of boric acid.
Home seedlings of peppers require pinching, that is, removing the growth point from the seedlings. They do this in order to stimulate the development of the root system in peppers and the growth in the internodes of stepchildren from dormant buds in which flowers form.
Pinching is done when the seedlings of bell pepper begin to develop intensively - the part of the plant located above 4-6 internodes is removed with scissors. When, after a while, stepchildren begin to grow in seedlings, the load on the bush is regulated, leaving 4-6 of the most developed stepchildren, and the rest are removed. In the lower internodes, stepchildren do not need to be removed.
Since peppers, compared with others, vegetable crops the vegetative period is longer, the seedlings of this crop are grown earlier than other plants, when the daylight hours are still short. But due to the fact that pepper seedlings need lighting for 12-14 hours daily, it is necessary to organize artificial lighting for it, otherwise the seedlings will be thin and elongated, with sparse leaves due to too long internodes.
Natural light from February to March is only about 5,000 lux, and normal seedling development requires an illumination level of 20,000 lux. The process of photosynthesis requires not just light, but a certain spectrum of rays: red rays stimulate the process of seed germination and flowering of seedlings, violet and blue rays are involved in the formation of cells, while yellow and green rays do not affect the development of plants. Namely, ordinary incandescent lamps emit yellow light, and therefore it is pointless to use them to illuminate seedlings. In addition, such lamps emit infrared rays, from which the seedlings are stretched and overheated.
It is best to use phyto or fluorescent lamps for artificial illumination of pepper seedlings, as well as LED lights which are designed for this very purpose. Seedlings are illuminated with 200 W lamps per 1 m² of crop area. The backlight is placed at a distance of 20 cm from the tops of the plants, and when the seedlings grow up, the light source is raised.
In the phase of development of cotyledon leaves, to stimulate a sharp growth of seedlings, the lamps should work for three days in a row. As soon as the seedlings have real leaves, the length of daylight hours should be 14-16 hours. In February, artificial lighting should work from morning to 19-20 hours without interruption. In April, the backlight is turned on only in the morning from 6 am to 12 pm and in the evening from 4 pm to 7 pm.
If pepper grows in a common container, at the stage of development of seedlings of two true leaves, seedlings are picked, although some reference books recommend picking already in the cotyledon phase. The soil with seedlings is well moistened, and then allowed to drain excess water. Seedlings are dived into separate pots with a capacity of 100-150 ml - seedlings, together with an earthen clod, are transferred to holes made in the soil, which should accommodate the root system of the seedling with the ground. The roots are placed in the soil freely, without bends. The hole is sprinkled with soil and slightly compacted.
When picking, the root neck of the seedlings is deepened by no more than 5 mm. After transplanting, the seedlings are watered and, if necessary, soil is added to the pots. At first, seedlings are protected from direct sunlight, and the temperature of the content should not be lower than 15 ºC - at 13 ºC, the growth of seedlings stops.
Sometimes, in the phase of cotyledon leaves, the seedlings of sweet peppers begin to turn yellow, the subcotyledon stalk darkens at the soil level, then turns black, a constriction forms in this place, and the seedlings lie down. The reason for the death of seedlings in this case is a fungal disease blackleg. Usually the causative agent of the disease is in the soil that you did not disinfect before sowing, but it happens that infection occurs through seeds or non-sterile containers - this is why pre-sowing preparation and disinfection is so important. The black leg progresses against the background of excessive or insufficient watering, dense sowing, too high or, conversely, too low a temperature. Treating seedlings with copper-containing preparations and good lighting will help you fight the disease. Affected plants must be removed.
If your seedlings with two pairs of leaves suddenly begin to wither without changing the color of the leaf plates, and lag behind in growth, most likely the seedlings are sick with a fungal disease Fusarium. With Fusarium wilt, the leaves begin to turn yellow from the bottom up, and in the context of the stem you can see a browned vascular ring.
The means of combating fusarium are the same as with the black leg, but it is better to prevent the manifestation of the disease - sterilization of the soil and utensils for sowing seedlings, as well as disinfection of seeds, will help you with this.
When gray fluff appears on the soil, the inner walls of the box and the base of the seedling stalks, oppressing the seedlings, we can say that the crops were struck by gray rot. For preventive purposes, once every 10 days, seedlings are sprayed with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, and treatment is carried out with bacterial fungicides or copper-containing preparations, removing previously affected specimens.
Already adult seedlings can hit phytophthora: dark stripes appear on the stems, and on lower leaves- light spots that gradually darken. The source of infection is usually the soil. At an early stage in the development of late blight, seedlings are sprayed with a solution of 5 ml of iodine in a liter of water; at a later stage, fungicides will have to be resorted to, first discarding diseased plants.
White spots and plaque on the leaves and stems, from which the growth of seedlings slows down, and the leaves turn yellow - these are signs of powdery mildew, which affects not only adult plants, but also seedlings. You will have to fight the disease with bacterial fungicides or iodine solution, as in the case of seedlings affected by late blight.
And sometimes there is a hurricane withering of seedlings: in the evening the seedlings were healthy, and in the morning they all lie, as if they had been scalded with boiling water. This disease is more common in the southern regions and affects sunflower and nightshade crops. This disease cannot be treated, so you will have to reseed the pepper.
With the development of 7-8 leaves in seedlings and the formation of large buds, if at this moment the seedlings reach a height of 20-25 cm, you can start hardening it. First, the seedlings are placed for 7-10 days at a temperature of 16-18 ºC, and then the temperature is lowered to 12-14 ºC. To do this, windows, windows are opened in the room or plants are taken out to the balcony, loggia or veranda, exposing them to direct sunlight. The duration of such sessions is increased every day, and two or three days before planting in open ground, the seedlings are left outdoors overnight, protected from too cold air. Hardening lasts approximately two weeks.
At the time of planting the seedlings in the ground, the seedlings should already have 8-9 leaves and several formed buds, and the average daily temperature in the garden should not fall below 15-17 ºC. The site before planting seedlings should be prepared: dig a shovel onto a bayonet and level it. Humus and peat are added to clay soil. The holes are placed at a distance of 50 cm from one another, keeping row spacing 60 cm wide. A tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer is placed in each hole and mixed well with the soil. The depth of the hole should accommodate the roots of the seedling without bends, and the root neck after embedding should be flush with the surface of the plot. The seedlings are transferred into the holes along with an earthen clod, the hole is half filled up so that the bulk of the roots is covered with earth, then about a third of a bucket of water is poured into the hole, and when it is absorbed, the hole is filled with soil to the top.
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