The seams between floor slabs are among the ceiling defects that are difficult to repair. This happens because the slabs move among themselves both during the shrinkage of the building and during seasonal soil movements. Sometimes this displacement, invisible to the eye, causes complete destruction of the mortar filling the joints, and the seam appears again. Sealing with usual solutions helps only temporarily. Many people solve this problem with the help of suspended ceilings, but if the height of the room does not allow this, to complete the finishing it is necessary to seal the seams between the floor slabs on the ceiling.
Necessary materials
In order to properly and reliably putty the seams between the floor slabs, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work for jointing and sealing seams, as well as purchase necessary materials having specific properties and suitable for this purpose:
Tools: narrow and wide spatulas, brush and spray bottle.
The ceiling made in this way looks absolutely smooth, there is no destruction of the seams, and the resulting microcracks, due to the plasticity of the putty, remain invisible. However, this method is unacceptable for apartments in new buildings - the house will settle within three to four years, and the slabs will inevitably move. Therefore, for new houses it is better to use other types of ceiling finishing, for example, suspended ceilings.
The modern market of construction and finishing materials pleases with a variety of choices, however, the undoubted leaders in this area have been identified a long time ago. Ceramic tiles are one of the best facing materials, time-tested. The tiled surface is practical and lasts a long time, and the availability of material is unlimited color palette allows you to realize the most exquisite design projects. In addition, the popularity of tiles is also explained by the fact that, in principle, you can tile walls yourself, and the necessary recommendations can be easily found on the global network. For example, we want to offer you the maximum useful information about how to grout tiles.
After laying ceramic tiles, the finishing touch is grouting; without this procedure, finishing the walls and floors with tiles cannot be considered complete. Except practical significance, the seam has and decorative feature– complements the overall pattern on the wall or floor. Moreover, manufacturers produce many color additives.
Cement based grout It is supplied in the form of a dry mixture, which is brought into working condition by diluting with water or liquid latex. Although you can find ready-made grouts in the retail network, their price is much higher. Cement grout for tile joints in the vast majority of cases is made on the basis of Portland cement, and the distinctive components are the special additives included in the composition. All grouts of this type are divided into three groups:
Interesting! Portland cement is special kind cement, which got its name because its color was very similar to the building stone that was mined on the English island of Portland.
Epoxy grout includes epoxy resin and a hardener, and gives the seams increased impact resistance and resistance to various chemical influences. This type of grout is highly expensive and is usually used when arranging industrial or commercial premises.
Besides, epoxy grout It is characterized by excessive viscosity, so only a specialist can work with it successfully. Moreover, there are certain restrictions on its use: the thickness of the tiles is from 12 mm, and minimum width seam – 6 mm. Otherwise, such grout simply will not be able to penetrate properly into narrower seams.
Attention! To avoid serious problems when doing the work yourself, carefully read the manufacturers' instructions. This is the only way you can determine what kind of tile grout would be better suited in your specific situation.
Grouting tile joints - a video instruction of the process, by the way, is at the end of this article, also involves treating the joints using sealant. It will protect the surface of the tile from excessive absorption of moisture, and will also protect it and the seams from stains. If the surface is finished with unglazed tiles, then it is completely covered with liquid sealant. This specific substance contains acrylic, varnish or silicone. Therefore, you need to choose it based on the type of tile and grout material.
By and large, the width of the grout joint depends solely on personal preference. Many people prefer narrow seams, which visually suppress the tiles. If the surface is made of elements measuring 10-30 cm, then the most optimal seam will be about 3 mm. Sometimes tiles measuring 60 cm are laid according to this scheme. If the tiles are being used irregular shape, then it is advisable to make a wider seam, but it should not be more than 12 mm.
Attention! The wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack. To seal it, it is necessary to use grout with the addition of sand, but this cannot always prevent the seam from deforming.
On the other hand, you should not make the grout joint too narrow, as this will significantly complicate the grouting process, and as a result, they may become leaky, that is, water will seep under the tiles. According to professional tilers, the seams should be of sufficient width that they could be filled without problems with any of the selected grout.
Only in this case will they become waterproof and will act as a kind of shock absorbers during the process of compression or expansion of the tiles. If the seam has a negligibly small width, then it will not have such parameters.
As a rule, dry grout is mixed with either water or latex liquid additives, which replace water.
Note! Dry polymer grouts can only be mixed with water.
When using any type of liquid, it is necessary to add only such an amount that will be sufficient to prepare a plastic and easily spreadable mixture. This aspect is extremely important, since excess moisture can cause the grout to weaken. To do everything correctly, the solution must be mixed strictly according to the proportions indicated on the grout packaging. The container in which the solution will be mixed must be dry and clean.
When mixing grout, the dry ingredient is added to the liquid. Moreover, initially about ¾ of the liquid specified in the recipe is used. After being added to the solution in small portions Add all the dry ingredients, add the remaining liquid, while not forgetting to control the consistency of the mixture.
Important! The grout preparation process can be influenced by the following: external factors, How temperature regime indoors, relative humidity, and also the component composition, for example, the presence of dye.
It is recommended to use a trowel or electric stirrer to mix the solution. If preference is given to “automation” of this process, then the mixer should be completely immersed in the solution during operation, so that air will not enter it. After all, air bubbles can also weaken the grout solution. It is for this reason that the blade speed should not exceed 300 rpm. At the end of the mixing procedure, the solution must be left alone for 8-10 minutes, and then you can safely use it for its intended purpose.
Grouting ceramic tiles begins with laying out the mortar on the surface of the tiles. To distribute it correctly, it is best to use a special grout float. It is held at an angle of 30 0 relative to the surface of the tile and is applied diagonally. It is necessary to pass the float over the area to be treated 2-3 times, not just covering the distance between the tiles, but trying to rub the solution into the seam with force to completely fill it. Naturally, the greater the resistance, the greater the filling density of the seam, and, accordingly, the stronger it will be. The main idea of this work is that all the voids and corners around the tiles remaining after laying them should be filled as much as possible. When applying grout, the liquid will leave it, and the seam will be filled with particles of cement and sand. Thus, after hardening, a solid body will be obtained in the seam.
There is no need to grout the entire surface at once. The most the best option there will be a distribution of the solution over small area, about 1-2 m. During the work, it will be determined how quickly the grout sets and whether there is a need for frequent stops associated with cleaning the surface. In some cases, it is possible to wipe out 9-10 square meters. m, and then start cleaning the working area. If the solution sets quickly, then only a small area is rubbed over.
If the lined surface has such a structure that its cleaning process requires significant effort, for example, imitation of an antique brickwork, then it is recommended to use a special grout bag. This “tool” visually resembles a pastry bag, with which housewives decorate cakes. A tip is attached to the end of the bag, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the grout joint. The bag is then filled with solution, which is forcefully squeezed directly into the seam.
When using a grout bag, the tip is placed at the top of the joint and then moved along as it is filled. As a rule, all horizontal seams are filled first, and then vertical ones. In the process of applying grout, you need to squeeze it out a little more than it seems at first glance. After some hardening of the solution, it is compacted using jointing or a small piece of a smooth metal tube, the cross-sectional diameter of which larger size seam Then, within 30 minutes, you need to let the grout pressed in the joint set and then remove the excess using a stiff brush.
When it is visually determined that the grout has sufficiently hardened, the tiled surface is wet cleaned. To do this, take an ordinary sponge soaked in ordinary clean water. Circular movements Excess grout is removed from the tiles, and do not forget to frequently rinse the sponge in water, which must be changed as it becomes dirty.
The seams need to be leveled and smoothed using a jointer, that is, a wooden stick with a sharpened end or the end of a toothbrush handle. Then the edges are trimmed with a sponge. The resulting seam should be smooth and non-convex; in the vast majority of cases it turns out slightly concave. All seams must be the same shape and depth.
We hope ours detailed instructions will help you correctly grout the joints on the tiled surface yourself ceramic tiles surfaces. If some points require clarification, we suggest you watch the training video.
If you plan to lay tiles on a surface with differences in height, then it is necessary to level the tiles. To do this, they use both specialized devices and carry out the process independently. We will consider further the methods of leveling tiles and the technology for their implementation.
By using a tile leveling system, it is possible to install the tiles much faster, while the surface is even and has no differences. This system, according to its operating principle, replaces the crosses that were previously installed in the seams, and has the shape of wedges on which there are clamps. The main part of the system is wedges in the form of spacers, with the help of which it is possible to regulate the location of the tiles on the surface. To fix the position of these elements, the second version of wedges is used - clamping ones. Thus, it is possible to install and secure the tiles in a certain position. Thus, the surface, after laying the tiles, becomes perfectly flat.
When laying large tile parts, they should be covered with two layers of adhesive. This system is different big amount benefits and is becoming quite popular among both beginners and professionals. In order to study the feasibility of using a tile leveling system, we suggest studying its advantages:
1. Getting a perfectly flat floor. By using this advantage It is possible to achieve a perfectly even floor covering with tiles. Appearance masonry is improved, and the quality of use of the floor covering also improves. The process of installing tiles is accelerated, and the work involved becomes easier.
2. There are joints of the same size on the floor surface, the tiles look perfect. At the same time, the use of crosses for seams becomes impractical. The distance between the tiles is the same on any part of the floor.
3. The glue is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the floor for leveling uneven surface floor is used adhesive composition, distributed over the surface. With the help of the solution, it is possible to fill all the voids that form on the floor. Without this system, ideal distribution of glue on the surface cannot be achieved.
4. Laying tiles in this way helps prevent tiles from sagging during use. Even heavy loads on the floor surface do not lead to its subsidence.
5. Fixing the tiles in the required position is another advantage of this system, which is difficult to achieve by laying the tiles manually. After the tiles have dried, they have been laid in the usual way, displaced or sagging areas appear on the floor. By using a tile leveling clamp, you can get rid of this disadvantage. The tile is installed in the position we need and remains there until it dries completely.
Despite this, this system has certain disadvantages, namely:
There are two types of systems for leveling tiles. The first one is cheaper and most often used. It is used if the surface has small differences in height. In this case, a wedge is used to clamp the base element, and the tile itself is installed on a flat base.
The cost of the second version of the tile leveling system is much higher. This system has a unique structure; the shape of the inserts is curved. Thus, it is possible to achieve self-leveling without additional manual intervention. Alignment of the plate occurs automatically, while laying tiles on floors with a large number of defects is allowed.
Tile alignment system video:
The use of this system is simple, although it requires additional time to install. However, the result is worth it. To install this system, you should perform the following steps:
Please note that the glue must be cleaned from the seams during the laying of the tiles. Otherwise, it will take a lot of time and effort to remove it.
We invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step instructions for laying tiles with your own hands using a leveling system:
1. Initially, the surface should be prepared; it should be cleaned of dust and dirt, and also degreased.
2. In order to increase the level of adhesion of the glue to the surface, the floor should be treated with a primer.
3. Glue must be prepared using the instructions. Because otherwise, problems may arise with its drying and strength.
4. Apply glue to the floor according to the thickness specified in the instructions. Before installing the tiles, place two clamps on the floor, one centimeter apart from the edge of the tile.
5. Install the second tile in the same way, between them a wedge-shaped element is installed, installed between the upper and lower parts of the clamps. Lock the wedge in the desired position.
6. Please note that the lower part of the wedge must be firmly fixed to the surface. It is with its help that alignment is carried out.
7. Install other wedges under each tile in the same way. The wedges are removed only after the glue has completely dried.
8. In order to get rid of wedges, a tool in the form of a hammer or chisel is used. Remove the clamps in the longitudinal direction relative to the seams. After removing the wedge, the lower elements remain under the tile.
9. Used clips are used only once and are discarded after removal. Wedges can be used many times. Please note that for successful implementation leveling, the room should be created optimal conditions temperature and humidity conditions. Temperatures below 15 degrees and high humidity are not allowed.
Before you start laying tiles, you should prepare the base for this process. First of all, the floor or walls on which the tiles are laid must be perfectly flat. Only in this case will it be possible to avoid swelling or deformation of this finishing material.
If the condition of the floor is critical, then it is necessary to remove the old flooring and install a new screed. Preparing the floor for laying tiles requires the use of tools in the form of:
Before starting leveling, the room must be ventilated. Next, you should remove all the furniture and other items that are on the floor. To remove dirt, dust or grease stains from the floor, use blowtorch. To remove cracks or other defects, use putty. Next, you should wait until the putty is completely dry.
Next, you should close all windows and doors in the room. Optimal temperature for further work - 20 degrees. Most often, tiles are laid on concrete base. However, it must be perfectly smooth. If there are differences in height of more than 3-4 cm, the floor should first be leveled.
Wooden base - very rarely used as a support for tiles. Wood is prone to high moisture and temperature changes. In addition, wood is not tough enough to be used as a base for tiles. Therefore, during the use of tiles on the floor, its deformation is possible.
Laying tiles on old wooden flooring is unacceptable. Before you start laying tiles, you should dismantle the old wooden covering. Next, you should install a new concrete screed.
To check the floor before leveling the floor tiles, use special device- level. There are two options:
Using a level allows you to determine the highest part of the floor or wall. This point is the main point for leveling the surface. The entire floor is aligned in relation to this point.
A laser level allows you to quickly determine the level of curvature of the floor. Using a water level requires the use of a pencil and ruler to mark the alignment.
The floor is prepared and leveled as follows:
1. Self-leveling compounds are the first and most popular method. These compositions are in the form of a dry powder, their base is cement. These compositions allow you to prepare the base for laying decorative flooring.
There are two variants of these compositions:
Each of the compositions requires thorough cleaning of the floor from dirt and applying a primer to their surface. To prepare the composition, you should study the instructions and combine the dry composition with water in the required proportion.
To improve the smoothness of the composition, you should not violate the proportion. Since these operations will negatively affect the quality of the resulting coating. The composition will thicken very quickly, so it is recommended to prepare it in portions.
The work is carried out in full indoors. A spatula is used to level the mixture. These compounds are easy to work with and quickly level the floor. However, their only drawback is high price. Therefore, in order to save money, another method of leveling the floor is used, which we will discuss later.
2. The second leveling method is to use a cement-based screed. This method is appropriate if the differences in height are more than five centimeters.
Usage this method relevant if the floor is quite uneven. In order to correct the curvature, it will take a lot of work. In addition, using cement mortar will save a lot of money.
After preparing the floor and applying markings, beacons should be installed. Most often, they have the shape of an ordinary smooth wooden beam. The first beacon is installed at a distance of 2-3 cm from the wall. The second beacon is installed at a distance of 60-70 cm.
To check the evenness of installation of each of the beacons, use a level. If there are differences between the beacons, timber is supplied under them. After installing the beacons, you should prepare a cement mortar. To do this, you will need Portland cement and clean dry sand. The proportions for their connection are one to three. Leveling work should begin from the farthest corner in the room.
Please note that the presence of moisture in the sand will negatively affect its quality characteristics. Therefore, the sand for making the screed must be absolutely dry. Next, you should cover the floor with plastic film.
If you plan to level a floor made of wood, then to make a screed you will need to mix glue with sawdust. If the floor has deformed over time, then this composition - perfect solution. After this, you should wait for the self-leveling compounds to dry, this will take from 1 to 5 days. After the floor has dried, proceed to laying the tiles. To further level the floor, leveling tile crosses should be used.
Using the above methods, you can also level the walls in the bathroom under the tiles. However, a simpler and reliable way- use of special floor leveling systems for tiles.
Video tile alignment:
Sometimes cleaning and washing the seams between tiles he simply cannot save the situation. So for example, in separate parts in my bathroom (mostly directly next to the bathtub), the grout in some places has completely disappeared. The water getting into the tile joints (and my child really likes to splash around:) simply washed away the entire grout solution.
It makes sense to re-grout the seams if there is a distance of at least 2 millimeters between the tiles, otherwise the grout will not be able to adhere. If you just want to re-grout the seams, just buy a special seam-rubbing tool at a hardware store. There are even special solutions to soften the seams.
The grout dries very quickly. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Dry grout is diluted with just plain water. In order for the grout to adhere better and not have time to dry out during the process, the solution should turn out to be even slightly liquid.
Rub with special tool. If the grout contains cement, it is recommended to use a respirator. Grout the grout at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Don’t just cover the seams with grout, but try to rub it into the seams so that the seams are completely filled with grout.
After applying the grout, wait the required amount of time (for KIILTO 20-30 minutes), after which the tile itself must be cleaned of the grout. Since I used a small spatula to apply the grout, I did not need to dry remove the grout.
To wash the tile itself from grout residues, walk over its entire surface with a well-wrung out sponge.
Level and smooth the seams using a jointer, a wooden stick with a sharpened end, or the end of a toothbrush. A special stick is included with KIILTO grout. Then smooth the edges of the seam with a sponge. Don't forget to rinse the sponge.
To prevent the tiles on the floor from cracking and to last longer, it is recommended to cover the tiles directly on top with an additional means to protect the seams, for example, like this:
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| seam protection product Sea, KIILTO |
In this article we will look at the method of leveling the ceiling with plaster and gypsum mixtures. It is optimal for old apartments with low and uneven ceilings, since it practically does not “remove” heights in comparison with suspended systems.
Preparation of the base is perhaps the dirtiest and dustiest part of the job when leveling the ceiling using plaster or gypsum mixtures. Where to start work, you ask, and we will answer you - first of all, you need to completely vacate the premises. If it is impossible to do this, cover all things with plastic wrap and seal them with tape, because dust and debris cannot be avoided in any way.
First we need:
So, let's start repairing our ceiling:
Tip: Alternatively, you can attach a long handle or stick to the spatula, which will give you the opportunity to work with both hands, which will make the task much easier.
Tip: When removing layers of whitewash and plaster, the spatula must be sharp, so it is recommended to sharpen it from time to time.
There are several methods that have been proven over the years that can make our task much easier.:
It's done like this:
It should be noted that the use of serpyanka for large and uneven seams does not exclude the appearance of cracks in the future (see). In this case, it would be better to use a plaster fiberglass mesh, gluing it in layers.
In this case, there are several options:
Before installing beacons, you need to determine the lowest point of the ceiling:
They have their own operating characteristics that need to be mentioned.:
After kneading, apply the mixture to the ceiling with a small spatula and lightly level it.
Tip: Before applying each layer, it is very important to let the previous one dry completely. After all, if the technology is violated, all our work may simply fall off over time, despite the price and quality of the putty.
Each layer should be tightened using the rule according to the installed beacons.
Before painting, you should remove dust from the room and prime the ceiling. It is not necessary to use special primers for this purpose, just apply the first layer with well-diluted paint. The thinner you need to select is only the one specified by the manufacturer on the packaging.. You should not experiment: if the paint is water-based, then when diluting it you can only use water.
Tip: The painted ceiling should not be dried in a draft, as upper layer becomes crusty, but the bottom one remains wet and the plastic properties of the coating are destroyed.
We hope that after reading this article, you learned how to properly level the ceiling. Now doing ceiling repairs at home with your own hands will not be any problem.
