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» Lilies in the garden, cultivation, planting and care. How to grow lilies in the garden

Lilies in the garden, cultivation, planting and care. How to grow lilies in the garden

The most famous flower growers and ordinary amateurs have created amazing varieties for planting and growing lilies in open ground. These flowers have delighted us with their beauty for several hundred years. They look so aristocratic, proud and gentle that, not without reason, they are a symbol of kings and an attribute of heaven and divinity.

At the same time, remember that species varieties are difficult to cultivate, and some of them are simply impossible for non-professionals.

But varietal, or as they are also called, hybrid lilies, are successfully grown even by beginning flower growers at their dachas, in the flower garden in the garden near the house.

True, for long and persistent growth and flowering, you need to know the basics of agricultural technology, the secrets of which we will now tell you. Taking into account all preferences garden plant(Lílium), can be obtained beautiful flower beds and successfully propagate the flower, both for yourself and for sale.

Growing lilies in open ground

These flowers are quite demanding. Therefore, if you want to grow them in your dacha flower garden, in the garden at home, then be patient and knowledgeable.
But in general, even beginners grow beautifully flowering plants. Tested for myself. At the same time, I repeat, quality is very important planting material.
I bought lilies at a local nursery, where the plants are acclimatized and ideally suited to the planting site (admin note).

How to choose bulbs

Don't chase flashy bags and marketing promises. It is better to visit the brand store of a regional nursery, an exhibition and a breeders' fair.

It is better not to take small bulbs up to 7 cm when you want to see quick flowering. If you buy in the spring (April May) with roots, then the roots must be elastic and at least 5 cm long. And after forcing, the material is not considered to be of high quality; such bulbs are only taken if the variety is really needed.
If you buy lilies out of season, then store them correctly. Place moss, peat or wet sawdust in a bag, wrap it and place it on the side shelf of the refrigerator. Punch a hole in the bag for ventilation.
Before planting, if the scales are dry, wrap them in a clean cloth soaked in a weak (pink) solution of potassium permanganate for a couple of hours.


Choosing a place to grow
Flowers do not tolerate drafts and swampy soil, but at the same time they require fresh air and good watering.

Special mention must be made for the lighting.

Some types of flowers love well-lit places or slight partial shade. Others prefer very sunny places and seem to gain strength in the flower from the sun. And then there are those who enjoy dark places and indirect sunlight.
It is better to grow lilies in the country in groups by variety, which will make the flower bed even more beautiful and will allow you to provide proper, individual care. Positive impressions and delight are guaranteed for both you and your guests and neighbors.

Before planting lilies, it is necessary to carefully prepare the soil and carefully select the location.

Sandy, dry and clayey soil is unsuitable for them. Flowers prefer slightly acidic soil, but this can also vary depending on the variety.
If you are planting lilies from a bulb in the garden, you will need very well-drained soil. Since these plants do not tolerate standing water for a long time, excess moisture in the root system quickly begins to rot and decompose.
Raise the flower bed, make an additional mound, arrange and make a slight slope from the edge of the flower bed so that during the rainy season and after watering excess water could have left.
In addition, you should not choose a place near trees or bushes, because often the soil near them is too dry.

It is better to fertilize the area with plant humus and humus (it is very good to use a peat mixture).
Check to see if there are any burrows of moles or mice in the area of ​​the proposed flower garden.
It is important that young growing bulbs are isolated from animal traffic to prevent possible damage before they have a chance to develop to full growth.

Planting lilies in spring and autumn in the ground

It is necessary to make drainage - dig up the soil to a depth of 30 cm. The soil should be loose, the kind that will be used to cover the hole.

The planting depth of lily bulbs is approximately 15 - 17 cm (the height of 3 bulb heads). The distance between them is from 15 cm for short ones, and for medium and large ones that bloom profusely from 22 to 35 centimeters

You can put old, well-rotted manure and sand into the hole, then the hole is spilled with water (can be warm), when the water is completely gone, the bulbs sprinkled with ash from charcoal are placed and covered with peat and loose (sifted mixture of fertile soil).
When planted deep, like ours, the flower will bloom later, but will produce more children. Follow the recommendations for the variety.
Then moisten the planting site (lightly water it with a watering can), but under no circumstances fill it with water.
The distance between them is made from 15 cm for short ones, and for medium and large ones that bloom profusely from 20 to 35 centimeters.

When is the best time to plant lilies?

Planting in the spring (in May for central Russia) is the best period for breeding and creating a flower bed with these magnificent flowers. But it all depends on the plant variety.
For example, the best time to transplant the candidum lily is considered to be July - August. And replanting an Asian variety is possible even during its flowering period.

In general, we must remember that transplantation is carried out no more than once every 3-5 years.
Before this, you need to cut the stem of the flower almost to the very soil, then carefully dig it out and rinse it in cool water. Cut the onion into 2 parts and place it for 30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (fungicide or karbofos), then immediately plant it in the prepared soil. You should not change the location of the flower bed too often.

Features of autumn planting

If you decide to plant lilies with bulb scales in the fall, then best time for this - September. The latest time for planting planting material is no later than mid-October. Limiting the time of autumn planting is provided to ensure that the bulbs have enough time to take root before the onset of cold weather.

Caring for lilies in the garden

Caring for these magnificent flowers is easier than preparing for planting.

  • It is important to water correctly.

Water them in the morning or afternoon (but not in the sun), moderately, especially in summer. While they are in bloom they demand less water than during the period of development of the stem with foliage and bud ovaries.

  • Feeding.

Fertilizers in the spring are especially important before the appearance of sprouts, the first shoots and during the period of bud growth.
Use 1 spoon of ammonium nitrate per 1 square meter of loosened soil. Also in the spring, lilies are fertilized using “Nitroammofoska”, from diluted old manure. Sprinkle the area around the flowers with ash, or better yet. You will also have feeding and pest control.
In summer, double superphosphate and potassium magnesium are used as fertilizer. Repeat watering with water and ash.
In the fall, feed with a solution of phosphorus fertilizers. For treatment and prevention against pests, use phytosporin.

  • Weed and pest control.

You can apply a thin layer of mulch to reduce the growth of weeds and pests that attack the garden, which can treat the bulbs as a treat.
Periodically you need to weed the ground around the plants, but very carefully so as not to damage them.

  • How to care for lilies in spring

in the garden comes down to:
It is necessary to clear the soil cover of leaves, grass, and covering material. Then the soil is loosened carefully and fertilized. When the sprouts hatch, water them with organic, nitrogen fertilizers or add nitroamophoska. Then they lightly loosen again and hill up to a small height.

Fertilizing is usually done a couple of times, when shoots have not yet formed. During bud setting, when watering or simply adding charcoal ash in bulk. Plus, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be used as fertilizing.

It is important to carry out preventive measures for healthy growth and flowering of plants.

Summer pruning.

  • All varieties tolerate cold well, but it is still necessary to prepare them for the winter season.
    To do this, insulate the soil with chopped dry leaves and grass with ash. It is good to use sawdust as mulch and cover. You can also cover it with film to prevent the tubers from being flooded with moisture during rains and snow melting.

How to propagate garden lilies

Many people are concerned about the issue of propagating these flowers in the country.
There are quite a few ways:

  1. dividing the bulbs
  2. by seed method,
  3. division of bulb scales,
  4. stem cuttings,
  5. and some varieties are even propagated by leaf cuttings.

Seed making is the simplest.

In early spring we sow seeds, both for seedlings at home and under protective film(greenhouse). Then you need to carefully thin out the shoots, this will prevent damage to the roots from accumulated moisture in the dense planting. At the same time, add loose soil to the weeding areas and fertilize the remaining flowers.

The shoots can be separated and used for plant propagation. If the lilies are already three years old, then you can easily plant them in August or early September by dividing them.

But most often the bulbous division is used.

After 3 years of growth of the main flower, shoots with newly formed bulbs are separated from it, and planted in scales or whole bulbs in prepared soil.

The flowerbed in which wonderful lily flowers grow is distinguished by its beauty and exoticism. Therefore, be sure to grow them in your country house, making the design of the porch of a private house even more beautiful in your front garden!

Growing and caring for lilies

Lily is a perennial bulbous plant of the Liliaceae family. General Features- presence of a bulb; six-petalled flowers with 6 stamens and a three-locular ovary; elongated leaves with parallel veins.

Only through the cooperation of nature and man do previously unseen miracle plants appear.

Now about 100 species and over 3000 varieties of lilies are known.

Site selection

Lilies need soil that is free from weeds, loose, nutritious and permeable. These flowers grow well only in fresh, clean soil. When choosing a site for lilies, pay attention to what plants were grown here before. The best predecessors will be legumes and annual flowers (petunias, violets, snapdragons), with the exception of asters. You can also grow lilies after some vegetables (radish, lettuce, cucumber, cabbage), but if onions, garlic or strawberries grew in this place, then you will have to wait 3 years.
These flowers do not tolerate stagnant water. Tubular and most Asiatic lilies They are grown in open areas, but light shade will not harm them. But you should not plant lilies close to trees, where the soil is dry and heavily shaded.

Before choosing a site for planting lilies, decide what varieties or hybrids you are going to grow here. For example: curly lilies, Sargent and Henry lilies do not tolerate direct sunlight, they need diffused lighting, while Tubular and Orleans lilies, on the contrary, grow better in an open place.

Although most lilies still prefer light shading or exposure to the sun for only half of the day. But to protect the flowers from strong winds necessarily, and the larger and more beautiful the lily’s flowers, the more protection they need. They will help with this ornamental shrubs, planted nearby, they can simultaneously provide shade and serve protective barriers.
What else you should pay attention to: the size of the fertile layer and the underlying horizon. The first should be powerful enough, the second permeable to water. Lilies have special roots that move the bulb in the soil. They are called contractile and have the ability to contract and retract the bulb to the desired depth. If the treated layer is too small this will not happen. The bulb will be in uncomfortable conditions, and the grower will not be able to achieve good results. A gradual increase in the thickness of the fertile layer is facilitated by deep digging with the introduction large quantity organic fertilizers. The unfavorable influence of the subsoil layer (stagnation of water leading to rotting of the bulbs) can be eliminated using a drainage device.

Soil preparation and planting

You need to start preparing the soil in advance, taking into account that the lily is a perennial plant and will remain in one place without replanting for 3-5 years.

On heavy soils, peat, humus, and sand are added for planting bulbs. It is important to remember that an excess of organic fertilizer causes increased growth of the above-ground part to the detriment of the formation of strong healthy bulbs, reduces winter hardiness, resistance to diseases, and weakens flowering.

On the poor podzolic soils humus is added at the rate of 8-9 kg/m2, on medium leached chernozems 4-5 kg/m2. An even lower norm can be limited to nutrient-rich chernozems.

Fertilize the soil before the main preplanting treatment. For plowing or digging, apply simultaneously with organic mineral fertilizers, of which the most important are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. On soils of average nutritional value, about 100 g/m2 of the mixture is needed.

The place for planting lilies is prepared, of course, based on the needs of each group. Here, the mechanical composition, acidity, fertility, and moisture capacity are taken into account. Professionals believe that the “right” soil is 80% of success in growing lilies!
Different varieties Lilies vary quite a bit in their needs. For example: Asian and LA hybrids feel better in slightly acidic and neutral, humus-rich soils; Tubular hybrids need poor, slightly alkaline soil with admixtures of sand and ash; and Oriental hybrids need reliable drainage and very loose acidic soil.

Many species can be grown in medium loamy soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5, plenty of organic matter and moderate moisture content. Such an “average” soil will also be a good basis for various modifications for each group. But to bring the original soil to the required “standards”, you will have to work a little.
In those places where stagnation of rain and melt water is possible, drainage is done. To do this, dig ditches sloping to one side, 60-70 cm deep, at the bottom of which a layer of crushed stone or broken bricks, and then sand and covered with earth on top.

It may take more than one year to improve clay and heavy loamy soils. First, liming is carried out: 300-500 g/m2, depending on the initial acidity. Lime is applied in the fall, embedded to a depth of 30-35 cm and thoroughly mixed with the soil. In the spring, a large amount of rotted organic fertilizers (8-10 kg/m) is applied and dug up again. Then the site is maintained throughout the summer wet, and only in the fall can you plant the first, not the most capricious, lilies.
Sandy soils are different from clay soils and have a good structure, but they are not water-holding enough for lilies. Water that quickly seeps through porous soil takes with it a lot of soluble nutrients, necessary for plants. Therefore, preparation requires increasing the ability of sandy soil to retain water. This can also be done by adding organic matter. Compost or humus is added regularly, but in small doses. Lime, if necessary, every year in small quantities.
If the soil on your site is loamy and well cultivated, then a month before planting, simply dig it to a depth of 40-60 cm and add complete mineral fertilizer up to 100 g/m2.

If the soil is completely unsuitable, then for some demanding lilies special preparation is carried out. For example, for planting Oriental hybrids: remove the top 30-centimeter layer and fill the resulting trench with a special soil mixture composed of 12 parts of bog moss - loose and lumpy, 2 parts of coarse sand and 0.5 parts of limestone or dolomite flour, with the addition of complete mineral fertilizer with microelements. All components must be thoroughly mixed and moistened. The mixture is poured to a height of 15-30 cm above ground level, and lilies are planted on the hill.

Landing

It is very important to plant correctly, which will save you from many problems in the future.

Bulbs can be planted in autumn and spring. For most lilies, early autumn plantings are preferred. Optimal time landing is September. If the autumn is warm, the bulbs have time to take root. When frost sets in early, they should be covered with insulating material.

Lilies should be planted in the spring as early as possible - at the very beginning of the emergence of seedlings, since young stems in the spring are very fragile and quickly break.

The timing of planting and replanting lilies depends on their variety. For most plants this is autumn - in middle lane August-September, in the south October-November is the time when the growing season ends for plants. Asian, Oriental, Tubular and LA hybrids can also be planted quite successfully and in early spring in April-May (subject to pre-prepared soil).
For planting, bulbs with well-preserved roots and elastic scales are selected. If you purchased dried planting material, you need to soak the bulbs in water, or even better, in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole, immediately before planting. And before soaking, remove dead roots and damaged tissue.

If it is necessary to preserve the bulbs for several days, they are placed in a cool place, covered with damp moss, sawdust, sand or just soil.
The bulbs are planted so that the feeding area for each plant is approximately 20x30 cm. These figures can vary widely depending on the type, variety, growth characteristics of lilies and other reasons. For example, in group plantings, lilies are planted closer together, leaving additional space around the group.
Planting depth depends on the size of the bulb and soil type. It is 2-3 times the height of the bulb, counting from its top to the soil surface, that is, on average 15-25 cm. On light soils it is planted a little deeper, on clay soils - vice versa. The only exception is again Snow White hybrids, which do not form stem roots. Their bulbs are planted to a depth of no more than 3 cm, otherwise they will not bloom.
If soil preparation was carried out without replacing the soil, planting is carried out as follows. Dig a hole 35-50 cm deep, put humus mixed with mineral fertilizer on the bottom, then a layer of soil (7-10 cm), and pour clean river sand (4-5 cm) on top. The bulb is placed on a sandy mound, the roots are straightened and covered with earth. After planting, the soil, as usual, is watered abundantly and mulched.
Bulbs prepared for planting are inspected, diseased ones are discarded, and rotten scales are removed; cut off lifeless roots and shorten too long living roots. Then the bulbs are pickled in a solution of 0.2% fundozol or TMTD, and, if necessary, an insecticide (0.1% phosphamide, BN-58, chlorophos).

The planting depth depends on the size of the bulbs and the mechanical composition of the soil. On the lungs sandy soils planted deeper, on heavy clay soils - shallower.

Planted in funnels or holes to a depth 2-3 times greater than the height of the bulb, counting from the top of the bulb to the soil surface.

One of the most important conditions when planting and replanting lilies: this is keeping the bulb and roots fresh, that is, preventing them from drying out. After planting, the soil is mulched with peat and humus.

Methods for propagating lilies

1. Propagation by bulbs.

This method is used most often than others, since it is the simplest and is applicable to all varieties and types of lilies.

But this method is the least productive for unpretentious, hardy and fast-growing lilies, such as Asiatic and Tubular hybrids. Due to the formation of several renewal buds by one bulb, several years after planting, a whole nest is formed in its place. Bulbs with an independent root system, obtained after dividing the nest, are transplanted to a new location in late August - early September.
Reproduction by daughter bulbs (children). Babies are formed in almost all lilies above the bulb, on the underground part of the stem. They are separated from the mother plant in the fall or early spring during transplantation or simply after raking the soil from the stem. The separated daughter bulbs are planted on permanent place or for growing in nurseries. Children bloom in 2-4 years.

An adult mother bulb is capable of separating daughter bulbs from itself. They divide the nests and replant the bulbs after 3-4 years. During this period, a nest of 3-7 daughter bulbs with their own root system is formed around the mother bulb.

In autumn or spring, the nest is dug up, carefully separating the bulbs, and planted in a new place using the same technology as for normal planting of bulbs.

2. Reproduction by scales.

This method is the most effective, as it makes it possible to get 15-100 new plants from one bulb.

You can separate the scales from the bulbs at any time of the year, including winter, if the bulbs are dug up in advance and stored in a cool place.

This method, which produces a large amount of planting material, is suitable for all types of lilies. Based on the ability of scales separated from bulbs to form small bulbs. Best result obtained by using the outer, largest scales. Without damaging the bulb, you can remove up to half of all scales. The timing of scaling varies for different types lilies, starting from spring - in Asian hybrids, in the flowering phase - in Tubular ones, up to autumn transplant- at the Eastern. Depending on the time of year, after preliminary preparation, the scales are planted in beds, in boxes, in greenhouses, or stored as bulbs.

The scales separated from the bulb are kept for 15 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, slightly dried and placed in plastic bags or dishes with moistened sawdust, peat at a temperature of +20 +22 0C. After 5-6 weeks, bulbs with roots form on the scales. In spring they are planted in the ground.

During the autumn separation of scales, after the formation of bulbs, they are placed for 4-6 weeks in the refrigerator at 0+5 0C, after which they are planted in boxes. In May-June, plants are transplanted into open ground.
3. Reproduction by stem buds (bulbs).
Bulb-bearing varieties are most often found among Asian hybrids.

A number of lily varieties have the ability to form small stem soil bulbs - bulbs - in the axils of the leaves. As they ripen in August-September, they are collected and planted in the same way as children. The plantings are covered for the winter. You can plant bulbs in the spring, then they are stored all winter in tied plastic bags with peat at tO 1-3°C.

Removing the buds helps increase the bulbous capacity of lilies.

At the end of summer, the bulblets separated from the stem are planted in the ground to a depth of 2-3 cm, watered, and mulched. To form larger bulbs, buds and flowers are removed. In the third year after sowing, the plants bloom.

4. Reproduction by seeds.

This method is the most productive for species lilies and hybrids capable of setting seeds. But, as is known, plants from hybrid seeds often do not retain the decorative characteristics of their parents. Collected seeds should be sown immediately after ripening: their germination lasts only about a year. The soil mixture is prepared according to the needs of the mother plant.

When grown from seeds, lilies bloom in the 3rd or 4th year.

5. Reproduction by tissue culture.

This laboratory method, requiring sterile conditions. It is used to accelerate the propagation of lilies and free old valuable varieties from viral diseases. Allows for a short time obtain a large amount of healthy planting material.

Planting care

Care is keeping the soil moist, loose, free from weeds, applying fertilizers, and protecting it from pests and diseases.

Lily leaves are sensitive to water getting on them, and therefore it is better to water the plants at the root.

Moderate soil moisture is necessary throughout the season. The greatest need for water occurs in the first half of summer, as well as after flowering, when the formation of bulbs begins and the accumulation of nutrient reserves for the winter.

It is advisable to apply fertilizing before or along with watering. In the first year after planting, plants develop worse and do not achieve normal growth and flowering. For better development, the buds are partially or completely removed. Weak or very strong plants that can break under their own weight are tied to a support.

In the second and third years after planting, lilies bloom profusely. As a rule, in the fourth or fifth year, growth decreases and flowering weakens. This indicates that it is time to divide and transplant the plants to a new location.

You need to start caring for lilies from the moment they are planted. Planted lilies definitely need shelter. For these purposes, sawdust, dry peat, fallen leaves, and shavings are used. Lilies should be covered for the winter only after the soil has slightly frozen, so that mice and other rodents do not find “both the table and the house” under the sawdust. And in the spring, the shelter must be removed in time, even before the sprouts appear. Also, before the shoots appear, the first spring feeding nitrogen fertilizers, for example, ammonium nitrate solution - 30 g/m2 - or urea - 20 g/m2.
First of all, the “babies” begin to grow, and then the mature bulbs. The bulbs of the Oriental and Long-flowered hybrids germinate later than all others. Young shoots are very sensitive to cold, so spring frosts can seriously damage plants, especially heat-loving ones. The spring shelter should be lighter than the winter one so as not to impede growth. This could be straw, hay, etc.
When the sprouts appear, the soil is carefully loosened so as not to damage the lagging shoots, and a second feeding is carried out with full mineral fertilizer (30-40 g/m2). Lilies respond better to frequent but dosed feeding. Try to use gradually dissolving fertilizers such as Kemira, which do not burn the roots.
As soon as warm weather arrives, you need to make sure that the top layer of soil, where many lilies have supra-bulb roots, does not dry out. Mulching material will help maintain moisture and coolness, and also prevent the growth of weeds. Protection from pests and diseases is also necessary; a separate article in our guide is devoted to this topic.

For better development of lilies in the first year after planting, as a rule, they are not allowed to bloom, removing the formed buds (the same is done for the formation of larger bulbs). But next year, during the budding phase, do not forget to make the third fertilizing with complete mineral fertilizer for better flowering. The last time feeding with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers is given immediately after flowering (15-20 g/m2 of superphosphate and potassium nitrate). Tall and weakened flowers should be carefully tied to pegs so that wind and bad weather do not break them.

The water requirements of lilies also vary. For example, Asian, Tubular and LA hybrids require moderate moisture throughout the growing season, while Eastern hybrids require more rainfall but a dry period at the end. Maintaining the desired regime is achieved through watering, which is stopped after flowering has ended. At this time, there is usually no need for additional moisture.
For oriental hybrids, in early autumn, before the onset of prolonged rains, a shelter is even specially built to dry the soil. The transparent film is stretched over arcs over the bed and pressed from the sides, leaving the ends free for ventilation. With the onset of the first frost, the dried soil is covered, and the film is placed on top of the shelter, not removed until spring.
After the end of the growing season, when the stems of lilies are touched by the autumn cold, they must be cut and burned in order to prevent the development of diseases, and also so that in winter the stems sticking out from under the snow do not serve as a conductor of cold to the bulb.

Common mistakes when growing lilies

1. Low-lying area for planting.
Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture. Planting in lowlands leads to diseases, rotting of the bulbs and even their death.
How to avoid this.

It is necessary to choose a site for planting where there is no stagnation of melt and rain water either in spring or autumn, or to arrange reliable drainage.

How to avoid this.

Mulch the soil with light materials (sawdust, straw, grass clippings).

5. Concentrated fertilizing.

Lilies need feeding, but high concentrations of fertilizers have a depressing effect on their growth and development.
How to avoid this.

Apply fertilizer several times in small doses.

  • Type: lily
  • Flowering period: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Height: 20-250cm
  • Color: white, yellow, orange, red, spotted, two-color
  • perennial
  • Winters
  • Sun-loving
  • Moisture-loving

Lily is an amazingly beautiful flower with a pleasant aroma that has been revered in many cultures. The Greeks attributed it to divine origin, believing that the lily grew from the milk of Juno, the mother of the gods. And when literally translated from Greek, “li-li” sounds like “white-white.” The Romans revered it as the main flower at festivals glorifying the goddess of spring, Flora. Christians and Jews decorate their sacred altars with it, considering the lily a symbol of purity. This flower can be found on the coats of arms of noble families. different countries. Today, lilies decorate many parks and suburban areas, performing bright accent in any flower garden. One of mandatory conditions lush flowering these wonderful plants are correct landing lilies and caring for them.

According to the international classification, these beautifully flowering perennial bulbous plants are divided into 9 groups:

  1. Asian– include 5 thousand varieties. They are unpretentious and winter-hardy; the flowers do not smell.
  2. Curly– there are 200 varieties. The name was given due to the inflorescences resembling a candlestick with drooping heads.
  3. Snow-white– include 30 varieties. They have a wonderful aroma and may have a pale yellow color. Very capricious.
  4. American– there are 140 varieties. The flowers are very original in bright exotic colors, often decorated with two-tone black specks. Quite picky.
  5. Long-flowered– have an elongated bud shape with a direction to the side or down. They are unusually fragrant. IN garden conditions often suffer from viral diseases and are mostly grown as greenhouse crops.
  6. Tubular– have a characteristic flower shape, reminiscent of an elongated gramophone, assembled from dense wax petals. They are capricious and need shelter for the winter.
  7. Orientals (eastern)– a large group of 1300 varieties. They are capricious, require warmth, and are often affected by diseases.
  8. Interspecific hybrids- unite in themselves best qualities separate groups. Extremely beautiful and exotic. Among the varieties obtained as a result of crossing, the most popular are LA hybrids, OT hybrids and LO hybrids with large flowers with a diameter of up to 25 cm for forcing.
  9. Natural views– play a key role in the creation of new varieties.

IN natural conditions these herbaceous plants are ubiquitous in the temperate latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere: in the Mediterranean, the southeastern part Central America, Japan, China. Asian lily hybrids are most widespread in mid-latitudes.

Lilies are one of the most beautiful representatives of the bulbous genus. They belong to the daylily family and are relatives of onions, hazel grouse, and tulips

Asians come from natural species Siberian lilies, such as Daurian and Tiger, and therefore are the most winter-hardy and adapted to less favorable conditions climatic conditions. Other groups of lilies, such as oriental, trumpet or curly, require more careful care.

Among Asian hybrids, the varieties that are most decorative are:

  • "Marlene" - petals of a soft pink hue. Famous for its abundant flowering.
  • "Landini" is a spectacular dark burgundy beauty more than a meter high.
  • "Aphrodite" is a double flower with pink petals.

Of the old and time-tested varieties, it is also worth highlighting: “Enchantment” with flowers of a rich red-orange hue, “Destin” with delicate lemon-yellow petals, “Peprique” with bright red flowers.

Worthy representatives of the Oriental group can be considered: “Mona Liza” with graceful gentle pink flowers, "Tiber" with flowers lilac shade, framed with a white border, the snow-white beauty “Siberia”

Selection of planting material

When choosing planting material, it is important to take into account the climatic features of the area, since not all lilies are able to safely tolerate temperature fluctuations.

When purchasing planting material, carefully inspect the bulb to see if there are any spots or signs of rot on it. These signs indicate that the plant is affected by diseases. The bulb should be evenly colored, the scales should fit tightly to each other.

Labeling will help determine the varietal identity of a plant:

  • The first Roman numeral indicates the fleur-de-lis group;
  • The second number indicates the position of the flower (“a” - pointing up, “b” - to the side, “c” - down);
  • The letter through the fraction indicates the shape of the flower (“a” - tubular, “b” - cup-shaped, “c” - flat, “d” - turban-shaped).

Until planting, it is better to store the bulbs in a cool place, sprinkled with sand, sawdust or damp moss. Some people use the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for this purpose.

For spring planting, choose bulbs on which sprouts have already sprouted and short white roots have begun to grow.

In the case when the bulb begins to germinate ahead of time, it is advisable to plant it in flower pot, leaving in a warm room. It is worth replanting into open ground after frost.

Choosing a landing site

When planning where to place an exotic beauty on the site, you should focus on its group affiliation. Tubular, Asian and oriental lines are most decorative only in well-lit areas.

Lilies that have adventitious roots on the underground part of the stem feel comfortable in partial shade. These include varieties of the group of curly lilies. It is advisable to place them so that the root part is shaded and the inflorescence is illuminated sun rays.

Lily is a heat-loving plant that prefers well-lit areas, securely protected from gusts of wind by a “screen” of green foliage.

Lilies with large flowers look impressive when used alone. When planting small-flowered lilies, to obtain an expressive aesthetic effect, it is better to form small groups, placing them at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Against the backdrop of the lush foliage of other perennials, bright, graceful flowers will stand out, creating a magnificent picture.

Areas located on a slight elevation are ideal for planting flowers. This helps prevent stagnation of rainwater, which often causes plants to be damaged by pathogens. Waterlogged soils are destructive for fastidious beauties. Conditions on clayey and heavy loamy soils can be improved by installing drainage. To do this, ditches are laid, placing them at a slight slope. The bottom of the ditches is lined with a layer of crushed bricks or fine crushed stone, sprinkling river sand on top and covering with earth.

To ensure that the soil at the root area of ​​the flower is in the shade and does not overheat under the sun's rays, it is better to plant daylilies, bells and hosts in the immediate vicinity. Their spreading foliage will cover the surface of the earth, creating optimal conditions for the development of fastidious beauties.

Proper soil preparation

The right soil is 80% of success in growing lilies. Regardless of the group affiliation of bulbous plants, they all prefer to grow in rich soils.

On enriched and well-drained peat soils, varieties of the American group and oriental hybrids develop well.

Humus is considered the best fertilizer for lilies. But it should be applied with caution: if there is an excess of nutrition, the plants begin to “fatten”. This provokes their slowdown in development, decreased resistance to disease and decreased frost resistance. Optimal ratio the humus introduced is 7-8 kg per 1 sq.m.

The introduction of weakly decomposed manure containing pathogenic microflora with pathogenic plants can have a detrimental effect on plants.

The soil for these beautifully flowering herbaceous plants must contain a sufficient amount of nutrients, because in one place the plant can live from 3 to 5 years. When digging the soil, it is filled with mineral fertilizers, which include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. They are applied at the rate of 100 grams per meter of area.

Since the roots of plants go quite deep, the soil is dug up before planting, going 30-40 cm deep. To drain heavy clay soil, sand is added to its composition

Most members of the daylily family do not tolerate acidic soils, preferring slightly alkaline and slightly acidic soil compositions. Only varieties of the eastern group feel comfortable in acidic, well-drained soil. Asians and LA hybrids prefer neutral and humus-rich soils, and trumpet lilies are most decorative on poor, slightly alkaline soil with admixtures of ash and sand.

Helps reduce soil acidity:

  • Wood ash - it is added at the rate of 150-200 g per 1 sq.m;
  • Chalk - when digging, add 300-500 grams per meter of area.

Processing of planting material

Before planting, the bulbs are inspected, discarding diseased specimens: damaged tissue is removed, rotten scales and dead roots are cut off.

The inspected material is washed under pressure for 20-30 minutes. Then, in order to prevent the development of fungal diseases, they are first kept in a solution of potassium permanganate, prepared in a proportion of 5 g per 10 liters of water, and then in a solution of the drug foundationazole. If necessary, they can be treated with an insecticidal solution based on chlorophos and one percent phosphamide.

The root system of these plants dries quite quickly. Therefore, there is no need to dry them after soaking.

Choosing a planting time

The optimal time for planting is after the plants have flowered. This is the period from late summer to mid-autumn. If you purchase bulbs in early spring, planting can be done as soon as the soil thaws and dries. Late spring planting is risky because young shoots can be damaged.

Spring planting is also more suitable for late-flowering varieties whose bulbs form slowly. These include LO hybrids and varieties of the eastern group: Rio Negro, White Heaven, Rialto, Marco Polo.

When planting plants, you should be guided by the rule that large bulbs with a diameter of 8-12 cm are planted to a depth of 25 cm, and small ones - to a depth three times the size of the bulb itself.

The only exceptions are Khalntsedonskaya, Belosnezhnaya and Testaceum. They form a rosette of leaves above the ground, and therefore the layer of soil above them should not exceed 2-3 cm.

When planting bulbs in heavy types of soil, the bottom of the planting holes is covered with a 5 cm layer of sand. To protect them from voles, along the inner walls landing pit lay out wire mesh.

The bulb is placed at the bottom of the hole, placed on an improvised sand “pillow”, and the roots are straightened. They should not be twisted or bent upward. The planting site is marked with a peg and sprinkled with earth, lightly compacted. The hole is watered abundantly with settled water and covered with bark mulch.

Lilies are very sensitive to drying out roots. To prevent the bulbs from becoming weathered while the hole is being prepared, it is better to wrap them in a wet napkin or hide them in a box with damp peat. Tender young shoots are afraid of temperature changes

To protect young shoots, cover the planted bulbs plastic bottles with cut out bottoms. For this purpose, it is better to use bottles with wide walls with a volume of 2-3 liters.

Subtleties in the care of an exotic beauty

How to care for lilies? To minimize the care of these beautifully flowering plants, you must follow a number of recommendations:

  • Feed the plants throughout the season complex fertilizers and ash at the rate of 50 grams per meter of area. Fertilizing is carried out in three stages: in early spring, at the stage of bud formation and after flowering. For spring root feeding, the following are suitable: ammonium nitrate (40 g per 10 l), nitroammophosphate (50 g per 10 l), a solution of fermented mullein in a ratio of 1:10.
  • Ensure timely watering. Although the lily does not like excess moisture, it needs frequent watering on particularly dry days. You need to water at the root, being careful not to wet the leaves. Accidentally falling drops of water can serve as a kind of lenses, causing sunburn.
  • Mulching the soil. Very harmful to bulbous plants and overheating of the soil, which disrupts the flow of biological processes. This can be prevented by mulching the soil. natural materials light shades (cut grass, straw, sawdust).
  • Pest control. The lily beetle and lily fly are dangerous for the above-ground parts of plants. You can get rid of pests by collecting the larvae by hand and spraying the stems with preparations such as “Thunder”, “Grizzly”, “Fly-eater”.
  • Garter of stems. High grades with thin stems must be tied to supports, thereby preventing them from breaking and lodging.
  • To prevent wilted inflorescences from spoiling the picture after flowering, they should be removed in a timely manner. Peduncles are removed at the end of the season.
  • After the end of the growing season, plant stems need to be cut and burned so that winter time they did not serve as a conductor of cold to the bulb.
  • For the winter, it is advisable to cover garden lilies with leaf soil, sawdust or spruce branches coniferous species. Only Asian and LA hybrids do not need shelter.

Lilies are planted, separating the daughter bulbs, once every three years, a month and a half after the end of flowering. By this period, they had increased their mass and gained the greatest strength.

Lilies are planted, separating the daughter bulbs, once every three years, a month and a half after the end of flowering. By this period, they had increased their mass and gained the greatest strength.

Slowly growing varieties of Caucasian origin are best planted only after 5-6 years. Asian varieties can be replanted even in summer. The main thing is to dig up the plants with a garden fork along with a lump of earth, preserving the root system.

When transplanting, baby bulbs are carefully separated from the stem and planted in seedling beds for growing. Immediately after planting, they are sprinkled with compost or manure humus, forming a layer 3-4 cm thick. They will form full-fledged bulbs in the second or third year.

Daylily - a lily for the lazy

It’s not for nothing that breeders nicknamed these unpretentious and disease-resistant perennials “lilies for the lazy.” And the statement that, than more beautiful flower, the more capricious it is, it is not applicable to this plant. Daylily grows well in any garden soil, feeling comfortable in both bright sun and partial shade.

Not inferior in beauty to garden lilies are their closest “relatives” - daylilies, but unlike finicky beauties they are very easy to care for

Planting and caring for daylilies takes a minimum of time and effort. And the plant begins to delight with flowering in the first year of planting. These perennial plants prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. They are able to grow on depleted soils, but are most decorative on loose loams rich in organic matter. They are tolerant of infrequent watering, but, like lilies, do not tolerate stagnant water.

Combining well with ornamental grasses and beautifully flowering annuals, they perfectly mask the slow decline of spring-flowering bulbs.

Daylilies are capable of becoming bright decoration any flower garden. At correct selection species that have different flowering periods, it is not difficult to extend the flowering of daylilies throughout the entire season.

Garden lilies have been delighting us with beautiful, elegant flowers and a pleasant aroma for several hundred years. Songs and poems are written about lilies, they are painted by artists and photographed by photographers.

However, not everyone knows that garden lilies, in addition to aesthetics, have healing properties, calm the psyche and reduce pain. An alcoholic tincture of white lily petals helps with cuts, abscesses, burns, toothache and muscle pain, in addition, it is an excellent cleanser for the skin. In our article we will tell you how to plant lilies in your summer cottage.

The enormous popularity of lilies around the world has led to the creation of a large number of new varieties and hybrids. Conventionally, all garden lilies can be divided into 8 groups:

  • Asian hybrids
  • Long-flowered hybrids
  • Curly hybrids
  • Snow White hybrids
  • American hybrids
  • Tubular hybrids

The eighth group unites new, relatively recently bred varieties of lilies. These include:

  • LA-Hybrids - obtained by crossing Long-flowered hybrids with Asian ones
  • OT-Hybrids - obtained by crossing Oriental and Tubular hybrids
  • OA-Hybrids - a product of hybridization of Oriental and Asian hybrids
  • LO-Hybrids - a product of hybridization of Long-flowered and Oriental hybrids

When choosing lilies for planting in central Russia, you need, first of all, to find out which group the variety you like belongs to. The characteristics of growing lilies depend on this.

Asian hybrids and OT-Hybrids are considered the most unpretentious and most suitable for the Russian climate.

Successful cultivation of lilies in our climate is only possible if certain conditions are met. For example, Tubular hybrids need alkaline soil, other varieties must be covered with film and spruce branches for the winter. When purchasing Oriental hybrids, be sure to find out their flowering time. Too late flowering varieties You shouldn't buy it because... the bulbs may not have time to gain nutrients for the winter and will die.

Before planting in open ground, lily bulbs purchased in early spring are stored in the refrigerator in a plastic bag filled with dry peat. In such conditions, the bulbs do not form large sprouts. If the bulb purchased in the spring has too large a sprout (more than 6 cm), then it is planted obliquely in the ground.

As a rule, large lily bulbs are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm, small ones - 7-8 cm. That is, approximately so that the planting depth is three times the diameter of the bulb itself.

The distance between the bulbs should be approximately 20-25 cm for large lilies and 10-15 cm for small ones.

In the hole, lily bulbs are placed on a mound of river sand, straighten the roots well and cover them with fertile soil made from peat and humus.

The main planting of lilies is early autumn (late August - September), but it is also allowed spring planting. Choose a sunny location to grow lilies. Good lighting is especially necessary in the first half of the day. Too much sun without abundant but not frequent watering is unacceptable - the lilies will grow short, be susceptible to diseases and fade faster.

When choosing a place to plant lilies in a flower bed, take into account the height, color and size of the flower. Tall lilies will look good in the background. Low growing varieties lily with small flowers suitable for alpine slides.

Transplanting lilies

After four to five years, due to soil depletion, lilies need to be replanted.

The deadline for transplanting lilies is the first half of August, but it can be shifted to the end of August - September. This depends on the condition of the bulb itself - after the end of flowering, 1-1.5 months must pass until it is replanted for it to get stronger.

Lily bulbs are carefully dug out with a pitchfork, trying not to damage the root system; the stems are pre-cut, leaving a small stump. Most lilies, after a long period of growing without replanting, form “nests” of bulbs. Usually after digging they fall apart on their own, but sometimes they have to be divided. This must be done with extreme caution.

After digging, the bulbs are washed and pickled in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate for 20 - 30 minutes, then dried, the roots are slightly trimmed and replanted in previously prepared moist soil.

Caring for lilies

For good growth of lilies, loose, nutritious soil. On damp, heavy, depleted soils, lily bulbs can rot. Before planting, the soil must be made lighter and looser by adding sand or another baking powder. When growing lilies, you do not need to use fresh manure. It causes increased growth of the vegetative system to the detriment of the formation of good bulbs, therefore the winter hardiness of plants is reduced and flowering is weakened.

The roots of some varieties of lilies reach a depth of two meters, but the plants still need to be watered at the root, being careful not to soak the leaves. The greatest need for watering occurs in early summer and after flowering, when new bulbs begin to form.

In the spring, before sprouts appear, organic and mineral fertilizers are added to the soil: a solution of fermented mullein in a ratio of (1:10), a solution of ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per 10 liters of water), nitrogen fertilizers, (1 tablespoon per 1 sq.m.). Thanks to the addition of wood ash (100 g/sq.m.), lily flowers become larger and have a brighter color.

After the lilies have buds, repeat feeding ammonium nitrate and treat the above-ground parts of plants against diseases and pests, since healthy leaves and shoots determine future full flowering.

For the winter, after the autumn rains, lily bulbs are covered with peat, spruce branches and polyethylene. It is especially important to cover Oriental hybrids with film, because, in their original form, in their homeland, these lilies grow in warm and dry conditions. In the spring, the covering peat can be left, but the spruce branches should be removed as early as possible so as not to damage the sprouts.

Cut lilies

Their elegant shape, beauty and ability to stand in water for a long time allow them to be used for various floral compositions.

In order for lilies to stand longer in the cut state, it is recommended to lower the tips of the stems for one to two minutes. hot water. Good results gives by adding silver sulfate to water and small quantity Sahara. But even without this, lilies remain fresh for quite a long time, delighting with their beauty and pleasant aroma.

Lilies are very beautiful and tender plants, unpretentious in care, which is why gardeners like them so much. Growing lilies in open ground, as well as other plants, requires the gardener to know when is the best time to start planting, how to properly prepare the soil for planting, and how to plant plants.

Trumpet lily “Pink Perfection”

The flowers themselves have large petals of various shapes and colors from soft light to sharply bright, or even combined colors. Lily inflorescences can be cup-shaped, funnel-shaped, star-shaped or bell-shaped. Long stamens emerge from their core, the number of which is equal to the number of petals. Usually there are only six of them. The buds are on a rather slender, tall stalk with protruding different sides leaves. Lilies are members of the Liliaceae family and are also considered perennials, meaning they good care capable of living for more than two years. The lily feeds and reproduces with the help of a bulb.

Although it is believed that lilies are not particularly demanding plants to care for, nevertheless, there are some conditions for growing lilies, observing which even a novice gardener can grow a beautiful and healthy plant.

One of the main rules for caring for flowers is at the planting stage.

Lilies are perennial plants, so choosing a place to plant flowers must be taken seriously so that you don’t have to replant them in the future. After all, these plants do not like transplants; because of them, they can slow down their growth. A comfortable place for lilies is a sheltered from the wind, but fairly sunny area with fertile soil.

Lilies can be planted in the soil both in spring and autumn; the specific planting period depends on the type of lily. Nevertheless, it is recommended to plant most species in the fall, in September, since in a short time root system the flower has time to develop, lilies are quite capable of withstanding spring temperature changes and will calmly overwinter if you help them a little with this.

Planting lilies in open ground

The roots of lilies grow very quickly and go deep down, so before planting the soil must be slightly loosened and dug as deep as possible. The land should be well drained and at the same time fertile. For this purpose in clay soil sand and peat are added and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are also applied. Most lilies prefer slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils, although there are species that love acidic soils, but there are not many of them. To reduce acidity, you can add chalk or tree resin to the soil.

Agricultural technology for growing lilies includes cultivating the soil, applying fertilizers, preparing and sowing seeds and bulbs. This is what we will talk about next. Lilies are grown from seeds and bulbs.

Lily from seeds, cultivation and features

When propagated from seeds, lilies retain their specific characteristics. Typically, flowers grown this way are the strongest and healthiest. At breeding work seed cultivation is the most The best way get new hybrids. It will take a very long time for lilies grown from seeds to bloom, 3–4 years.

Lily seeds

Lilies have seed pods in which the seeds ripen. When fully ripe, they can spill out into the soil or even sprout if the garden is damp. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to collect these boxes in time, without waiting for opening.
By the way, seeds germinate at temperatures from 20 to 25 °C. But the presence of light is not necessary for them. Seeds can easily germinate in the dark, as long as it is warm and humid. It is best to sow seeds in the spring season in a mixture of leaf soil and sand. Sandy soil with peat and manure is also good.

It is recommended to grow seeds until sprouts appear at home, in a box or other container, and only then replant them in open ground.
These conditions can be maintained until the sprouts appear. And when they appear, it is better to reduce the temperature to 12–20 °C. It is necessary to water on time, do not allow it to dry out.

At the beginning of summer, when the seedlings have already grown a lot, they are planted in open ground. The planting site should be chosen carefully, as lilies do not tolerate transplants. Because of them, they slow down in growth and development.

Propagating lilies from seeds is an excellent way to grow lilies. But besides this, there are also others, for example with the help of bulbs.

Lily bulb planting

For planting, you must choose healthy bulbs without any damage. It is also important to pay attention to the type and variety of lilies, because this determines the characteristics of its planting.

Before planting, the bulbs should be stored in a damp place. For example, in slightly moistened moss, sawdust or sand.

But if you decide that now is not the time to plant flowers, and you plan to store the bulbs for a while before planting. To prevent them from sprouting and spoiling, you should follow the rules below. The main thing to remember is that lily seeds and bulbs cannot be stored for a very long time, 3–4 years maximum.

Storage rules:

  1. The bulb storage should not be dry. They tend to shrink when dry.
  2. Low storage humidity. High humidity can cause the bulbs to either sprout or become moldy.
  3. The temperature is definitely above zero. 5–10 °C will be enough.
  4. The storage must have ventilation.

If you do not follow these rules, you risk losing your flowers even before planting.

Bulbs can be planted in open ground either in spring or autumn. For the most part, it depends on the type of flower. However, most gardeners recommend planting lilies in autumn time of the year. The planting depth for small bulbs is about 5 cm, and for large ones about 16 cm. It is recommended to fertilize the plant immediately after planting.

Lily care in the open ground

Growing lilies in the garden requires timely watering and fertilizing. The tops of the flowers should be well lit by the sun, and the roots should be in the shade. In order for the lighting to become correct around the lilies, it is recommended to plant other plants that block the roots from the sun, leaving them in the shade, as they should be. In dry summers it is worth monitoring watering. The soil should not dry out, but it should not be flooded either. During rainy periods, the lily flower does not need watering as much, so during these times it is not necessary to water the plants, because waterlogging the soil can harm the lilies.

Lilies should be fertilized four times a season.

Table “When to fertilize lilies”

If your lily is no more than a year old, but buds are already beginning to appear, experienced gardeners It is recommended to cut them off, as they waste too much energy from a very young plant. But, the very next year after this procedure, the flowers will be able to please you with more beautiful buds, and later with blossoming flowers.

Video “Planting and replanting lilies in autumn”

Difficulties in growing lilies

New gardeners may encounter some problems when growing lilies.

  • For example, if lilies do not winter well, then most likely you have oriental lilies. These flowers prefer rainy summers and springs, as well as dry winters and autumns. To solve this problem, you should simply shelter the plant from the autumn rains.
  • Lilies bloom for a short time and wither. The cause of this disease in the flower is waterlogging of the soil. It is important not to allow moisture to stagnate in the roots. The solution is to reduce the frequency of watering. Overwatering can cause the bulbs to rot, which in turn can lead to the death of the plant.
  • Also, such symptoms can occur in plants when the soil at the roots overheats. To prevent this from happening, you can plant other plants around the flower or hide the roots behind reflective materials. For example, sawdust, straw, grass clippings or something similar.

Pests can pose a danger to flowers. For example, the lily beetle. Both larvae and beetles heavily eat the leaves and buds of the flower. You can get rid of it simply by removing the beetle from the flower. But if there are too many of them, it is better to treat the flowers. True, after treatment with insecticides, the plant can temporarily lose its attractiveness. But the lilies will remain healthy. In the same way, they fight other pests: lily flies, aphids and the like.

Video “Pests of lilies and ways to combat them”

Methods for propagating lilies

Lily is a plant that can reproduce using bulbs, seeds or scales.

  1. One of the methods of propagation is dividing the bulbs. This method is used when the plant is 4–5 years old. It consists of dividing a lily bulb and planting the divided parts. With proper and good care, the grown bulbs will begin to bloom within a year.
  2. Reproduction by seeds occurs using seed pods. As soon as the boxes begin to turn brown, they must be collected, otherwise they may open and the seeds will spill out. After collecting the seeds, they are stored until planting. They must be stored at a low but positive temperature. The maximum time for storing seeds is 3–4 years.
  3. The last method of reproduction is by scales. Small loose growths - scales - are carefully cut from the bulb and planted in a special, moist sandy bedding. After a few months, the scales form small bulbs, which can later be planted in the ground.

How to propagate lilies

Types of lilies

There are a whole lot various types and varieties of lilies. Each of which has its own characteristics. And this applies not only to the color and shape of flowers, but also to some features of agricultural technology.

  • Asiatic lilies

Lily "purple rain" Asian hybrid

They have large white bulbs. They grow easily and are well adapted to winter weather conditions. They reproduce using scales and bulbs. They grow quickly. They grow from 20 to 50 cm. Lily flowers are most often cup-shaped or turban-shaped; white, orange, yellow, cream, red shades, can combine two or three colors.

Lily "Maroon-King"

These are tall plants. The flowers themselves have delicate colors of different colors. Frost-resistant, durable. They resist well various diseases, infections and rot. Unpretentious in the choice of soil.

  • Eastern

Lily "TIGERWOODS" oriental hybrid

This type of lily is more suitable for experienced gardeners, since these plants are highly susceptible to various diseases, reproduce capriciously and begin to bloom only after 5-6 years. They have tubular, cup-shaped, turban-shaped and flat flowers.

Lilies are very popular flowers among compatriots. Lily plants have a huge number of species and varieties with different conditions agricultural technology. Basically, caring for lilies involves timely feeding and watering. You can grow these flowers different ways, bulbs or seeds, that is, you can choose a more convenient method for yourself. Thanks to all of the above, lilies are so popular among gardeners, but the main thing is that both experienced gardeners and beginners can grow them.