Therefore, it makes sense to consider the most used options, and making a choice is the prerogative of the owner of the building (living space).
This method is more familiar, especially since the technique does not present any particular difficulties.
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Minuses
It must be cleaned, after which it is inspected. If the old plaster does not hold well, then it is also removed. The solution will be securely fastened only with a solid base. In order not to stain the door frame and the canvas during operation, they are glued along the edges with masking tape
Such a composition will improve the quality of the “coupling” of the mortar with the wall and protect it from water absorption.
Their orientation is determined using the simplest plumb line (weight on a string). Fastening - on the solution.
It is necessary to increase the strength of the slope, since constant opening / closing creates dynamic loads on the entire structure, including the finish of the front door.
It is advisable to produce in several stages. First, all potholes are sealed. After drying - the next layer. Their number depends on the depth of the “laying” of the solution, but the thickness of each should be no more than 2 cm, for high-quality evaporation of water.
If cracks have formed on the surface of the last layer, they are smeared with a solution of a liquid consistency.
It is done in two ways. You can treat the frozen solution with abrasive material (sandpaper), but in this case there will be plenty of dust. A more “clean” technique is the application of a putty composition as an outer layer. It will additionally "smooth" the surface, and after painting it will shine.
If necessary, the resulting minor irregularities are removed with "sandpaper" with fine stone fractions. After that, the primer is applied again.
As a rule, it is made by coloring slopes. It is advisable to choose moisture-repellent compounds, especially if it is a door on the landing. A conscientious cleaner will quickly wash off the water-based paint.
You can paste over the slopes with suitable decorative materials, for example, with a thick film.
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Minuses
When installing the door frame, openings are formed on each side of it. They need to be cleaned of all large fractions (pieces of plaster, stone, and so on). From the GKL (drywall sheet), the sides of the slope of the appropriate dimensions are cut out.
If the “gap” is quite impressive, then to reduce the consumption of mounting foam, it can be pre-sealed (with the same mortar, alabaster, putty). At least it'll be cheaper.
Before applying the foam, the surface must be moistened with water. This is necessary to ensure high-quality "coupling" of the composition with the base. Then the opening "foams". Its top should protrude slightly above its cut. A mixture is also applied to one side of the workpiece (which will be internal) (with a snake, in parallel lines).
After that, it is necessary to press the part tightly to the installation site and remove it again. After a few minutes (approximately 5, as determined by the ambient temperature), when the foam begins to "seize", the part is again firmly pressed against the surface. It is necessary for greater confidence for a couple of minutes not to tear off your hands.
Existing protrusions, as well as excess foam, are easily cut off with a sharp object (scalpel, knife). All joints are sealed with putty.
Regardless of how the further finishing of the door will be carried out, it is advisable to paint the drywall. Even its moisture-resistant brands still absorb moisture.
There are other options. For example, finishing with a board (lining), MDF, PVC panels and a number of other materials, even artificial stone. But such work requires a certain professionalism and accuracy in fitting all the details. Anyone who is interested in this will not be difficult to find on the Internet the appropriate methods and recommendations.