In the steam room of a Russian bath, unlike a sauna, the humidity is slightly higher. Less of a shock to the body is temperature regime: You can stay in such a room for a longer period of time and thoroughly “steam the bones.” That's why most Russians choose a Russian bathhouse.
When hiring a construction team, the cost of construction will double, so if you have at least basic skills, it is better to start building a bathhouse with your own hands. First of all, you need to decide on the building plan. You can create your own or use ready-made drawings and choose the design that best suits the size.
Bathhouse projects
To avoid conflict with neighbors in the area and regulatory organizations, drainage rules should be strictly followed. The bathhouse is considered a sanitary structure and must be located at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the edge of the neighboring site. If there is no separate drain for water, this distance increases to 3.5 m.
The distance between buildings, including neighboring ones, is also regulated. The materials from which the structure is constructed are also taken into account. So, if you can leave a distance of 6 m between brick buildings, then between wooden ones - at least 15 m. If the building is being erected in a country house, then the distance to the forest is also regulated - from 15 m.
Regulated distance between buildings
You will also need crushed stone, sand, cement, and reinforcement for the construction of the foundation; lumber for flooring and ceilings, doors and windows, insulation, roofing materials, brick or metal for the stove, etc. Since most wholesale companies provide significant discounts, it is advisable to purchase all materials in one place. The cost of supplying electricity must also be included in the estimate.
Wooden profiled beams are more expensive than solid logs. You can save a little if you use rounded logs rather than timber. It is much easier to construct a building from such materials: you don’t have to “finish the wood” yourself. If desired, you can purchase already finished log house, disassemble, transfer to your own territory and assemble according to the numbering of the logs.
To retain heat in the building, it is advisable to use thick-walled timber with a thickness of 150 mm or more. Working with untreated logs is much more difficult and requires certain skills. In addition, the timber gives less shrinkage.
Rounded logs, regular and profiled timber
Construction of a bathhouse from chopped, rounded logs and timber
To find out the required quantity cubic meters, you need to multiply the length of each wall by the height and thickness of the building, and then calculate the sum of the volume of all walls; The thickness of the material can be obtained from the supplier;
When purchasing beams or logs pieces the calculation will be different: the length of all the walls around the perimeter will need to be divided by the length of the material (for example, 6 m); then divide the height of the bathhouse (optimal 2.1 m) by the thickness of the walls (from 0.2 m), multiply the resulting number by the number of walls (4) and the number of beams that will be needed to erect one crown (i.e. one row, frame log house).
During the construction of a bathhouse made from solid logs shrinkage (and therefore the finishing of the building) will have to wait much longer - up to 2 years. By the way, this is why you should not agree to build a turnkey bathhouse within a couple of months, which some companies offer. The fact is that if the building shrinks insufficiently, cracks may appear in the cladding. Therefore, before finishing begins, the building must stand for the required time.
Strip and pile foundations for a bathhouse
Direction of laying slats
2. It is advisable to assemble the log house on the ground, since adjusting the crown on the foundation is not very convenient. The first crown should be made from the thickest log without knots or blue stains and preferably from wood that is most resistant to rotting: larch or oak.
3. All beams of this crown are thoroughly coated with bitumen. To ensure that the impregnation is absorbed into the wood as deeply as possible, it can be mixed with waste. The ends of the logs are not treated so that moisture can evaporate.
4. The laying of the embedded crown is verified by level with particular accuracy. When installing the lower links that are closest to the ground, the possibility of replacing them is immediately provided. To do this, the logs are simply joined at the corners with their ends, without a lock.
"into the bowl"(sometimes this method is called “in the oblo”): a bowl is cut out on the surface of a log with an ax so that neighboring logs fit halfway into it; the ends of the logs extend beyond the boundaries of the log house;
"in the paw": such cutting is more labor-intensive and does not tolerate mistakes; at the corners, a lock is selected from the logs (a tenon is prepared on one side of the log, a groove is prepared on the other); the main difficulty lies in maintaining the exact dimensions of the joint.
When cutting “into a bowl”, the parts protruding at the corners of the building can reliably cover the joint from rain and snow. Plus this cutting is much easier. The building looks “antique”, but it external cladding will be impossible to complete.
Corner connections log cabins
Foundation with different levels
2. When assembling a building from non-profiled timber, to prevent the logs from torsion, they are mounted on dowels– durable rods made of metal or wood.
Nageli
3. During the shrinkage of the structure, doors and windows may jam. To avoid their deformation, they use window frames - boxes that are installed in door and window openings with special grooves. When the structure shrinks and moves, windows or doors will move along such grooves along with it. It can be of two types: U-shaped and T-shaped
4. Be sure to leave a 3-4 cm seam above each opening to compensate for movement. After the structure shrinks, it is closed with cashing.
Important! A sealant (linen fabric or jute) must be placed under the window frame. Polyurethane foam will prevent the logs from shrinking, so its use is undesirable. The grooves and ridges must be caulked after installation.
Jigsaw for windows and grooves in window openings for her
5. Upper crown (mauerlat) will serve as a support for the roof. Just as in the case of the frame crown, the strongest logs without defects are selected for it.
Video: Building a bathhouse with your own hands step by step
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
If you want to have a pleasant time at your dacha, then you definitely need a bathhouse. A small do-it-yourself bathhouse, built on the site, will save both money and square meters if you don’t have a lot of free space to build a bathhouse. In this article we will talk about how to design and how to build a small-sized bathhouse with your own hands.
The size of the bathhouse should be determined depending on the number of people who will regularly visit it at one time. If your family consists of 2–4 people, then you can get by budget option this building. In this case, the length of the bath will be 6 m, the height will be 2 m, and the width will be 2.2 m. There should be four separate rooms inside. Each of them will perform its own function and have a certain size. For example, each room will have a certain size. The width of the bathhouse is 2.2 m, and the length is:
For the steam room and shower room, it will be necessary to perform separate calculations for the area, because shelves must be placed in the steam room, and a tray must be placed in the shower room.
A small bathhouse should be built in the usual sequence. The construction rules for its construction are no different from those by which other buildings are erected.
The construction of each building begins with the construction of a foundation. To determine which foundation to lay as the base of a bathhouse, first determine the quality of the soil on which it will be laid. If the soil is hard enough and dry, then you can build a simplified foundation. To do this, lay flat stones along the intended perimeter. Next, fill the inside of the foundation with similar stones. The cracks should be filled with clay and compacted. Lay a layer of wooden beams pre-treated with hot bitumen on top. You can, in fact, not use clay. To do this, you can make a waterproofing layer that will cover the laid stones.
As a rule, a columnar foundation is preferably chosen for a bathhouse. For these purposes, you can use stone, ready-made concrete pipes, bricks, or asbestos concrete pipes, inner space which are filled with concrete.
Another option is to install the bathhouse on wooden, metal or concrete piles. However, in this situation, you will need to take care of the thermal insulation of the floor.
Strip foundation is the most common and reliable. To build it, you will need to dig a trench and make a cushion of crushed stone and wet compacted sand. Afterwards, you should tie the reinforcement and fill it with concrete mortar. For the waterproofing layer, you can use roofing felt.
If sand predominates in the soil, groundwater is very high, then for arranging the base of the bathhouse you should use reinforced concrete structures block type. For a mini-sized bathhouse, it will be enough to use ten such blocks, the dimensions of which are 20x20x40 cm.
After the foundation is ready, install the frame of the bath house and build its walls, then the partitions dividing the dressing room. The rest room and shower should be insulated with a mixture of sawdust and expanded clay. The insulation should be covered with polystyrene sheets, after which the walls should be covered with clapboard. To prevent rodents from entering the bathhouse, you can add broken glass. Before laying the lining, it is necessary to carry out heat and vapor barrier, as well as insulate the walls with mineral wool. After that, cover them with clapboard.
Make the walls in the shower room from polystyrene or galvanized steel. These materials are more durable than wooden lining; they are better able to withstand changes in temperature and moisture.
If you are setting up a bathhouse for your summer cottage, but you do not have a pressure water supply system, you can organize a gravity supply of water. To do this, it is necessary to build a structure that will consist of:
Tank with hot water in relation to the cold one you need to set it half a meter lower. Secure one end of the hose to the bottom of the tank with cold water, and connect the second one to the top of the hot water tank. Water circulation will be possible due to the temperature difference in the pipes. To organize the water supply to the shower, the tanks must be connected with a separate pipe. A mixer must be installed at the end of the pipe.
To organize the drainage of water, sewer pipes are installed, which will drain the wastewater into a drainage hole, previously dug and equipped. For rapid gravity drainage, pipes must be laid with a sufficient slope.
The water in the bathhouse is heated by the stove, which is located in the steam room. In addition, a heating element can be used for this, which can be purchased at a specialized store.
If you decide to heat water with a stove, then install a U-shaped pipe at the hottest point of the stove and run it around the base of the chimney. The water supply should be on the body, and the outlet should be 5 cm above it.
If you decide to use a heating element to heat water, then install it under the cold water tank, connecting it to the system with stainless steel pipes and hoses.
In a small bathhouse, ventilation is easy to arrange. To do this, make a hole on the wall opposite the front door that will be easy to open and close with a damper.
To organize lighting in small sauna It will be enough to install several halogen lamps with a heat-resistant housing. To reduce the voltage from 220 to 12 V, use a small transformer. Now your small sauna is ready!
To assemble a bathhouse for one person, you will need to purchase lightweight insulated panels, which are a frame made of beams covered with thin boards. The standard frame size is 185x60 cm. To do this, you will need a beam whose cross-section is 1–1.5 cm and 3x6 cm. To insulate the bathhouse and provide a vapor barrier, fill the panels with mineral wool or polystyrene foam. On the inside, the material is sheathed with a special aluminum foil and polyethylene film. As for the outside, it is covered with glassine or roofing felt. The panel can be covered with clapboard.
In one of the panels you should make a door measuring 160x60 cm. Install a small window in it, preferably with double glass. The bathhouse must be airtight; door locks at the bottom and top ensure this. At the bottom of one of the panels, on the side where it will be installed heating device, make a ventilation hole with a plug.
To build a single bathhouse, you need to assemble the structure and, most importantly, ensure its heat and waterproofing.
To build a steam room with an area of 1.8x1.3 m, you will need 10 panels for the walls and 2 for the roof. Fill the seams with batting and close them wooden planks on both sides. To protect the ceiling from precipitation, cover it from the street with a triple layer of roofing felt. If you will use the bathhouse only during the warm season, then you should not insulate the floor. If you plan to use the bathhouse year-round, pour a strip foundation and insulate it. To heat the steam room up to 90°C you can use an electric stove closed type, having a power of 3 kW. Place a metal bucket with stones on the stove and turn it on for several hours. Then proceed to bath procedures.
You can also set up a small steam room in your home, for example, in the bathroom. This can be achieved in two ways. In the first case, you will need to install a removable shelf on two bars. The height from the floor should be no more than one meter. The bars are secured to the wall with reliable anchors. Above the bathtub, the height of the shelf should be between 400–600 mm.
To climb onto the shelf, you will need to make several steps or a ladder using rubber bearings. Tie the ladder to the shelf with twine. The shelf width should be 600 mm. This steam room is heated by an electric stove. It can be installed on a special stand, for example, above a washbasin. As a heater, use a basin or metal bucket, which should be filled with stones and placed on the stove.
Another option is to create a sitz steam bath on your bathtub. It will be covered with removable wooden panels. The shelves will be used as a seat, and you can rest your feet on the durable panels. To make the room remind you of a bathhouse, cover the walls and ceiling above the bathtub with clapboard or install removable panels. They can be installed and removed without special effort. Heating is in progress electric stove with a container of hot stones placed on it.
Choose your version of a small bathhouse, plan your actions and get started!
Minimum size bathhouse built in full size Part 2 Small bathhouse
Today, many people want to have a sauna in their home, since the design has big amount benefits. This is both pleasure and health benefits, and an opportunity to spend time with family and friends. And you can build a sauna with your own hands.
The sauna can be wet or dry. In the second option, the air will warm up to 80–120°C and have a humidity of 7–20%. In a wet sauna Maximum temperature is 55–70°C with a humidity of 95–100%.
Design features you need to know:
It is important to maintain the correct temperature and humidity ratio.
If the sauna is located inside a house or apartment, then there is no need to make a window. However, for a detached building you need to make it with double glass.
The wash room, shower or pool must be arranged separately from the steam room, so there is no need to conduct water into the room. Sewerage drainage must be provided.
A fence needs to be built around the stove.
The type of stove does not matter.
A special feature of the sauna is that the temperature in the room reaches 120°C. However, it can be easily moved, since the air in the steam room is dry. For the same reason, the body warms up almost instantly. When water hits the stones, a lot of hot steam appears in the air. But after a short period of time the air becomes dry again.
LED lighting in the sauna looks very original 
The design of a sauna in the house can be done in a special program 
A compact sauna can be installed in an apartment 
The finishing of the sauna must be made with high-quality materials 
A small sauna can have any shape 
A sauna with LED lighting can become a cozy place 
Spacious sauna suitable for ten people 
Lighting fixtures in the sauna are required 
Interior arrangement sauna depends on personal preference 
Box sauna fits in the bathroom 
The semicircle-shaped sauna will surprise your friends 
The high-tech sauna with stone inserts is truly original
First of all, you need to make a drawing.
The presence of a stable air flow in the building makes it possible to choose sizes based on the number of users and convenience. The possible ceiling height is 1.9–2.1 m. It is not worth increasing this parameter, since this may lead to the appearance of a “tube effect”, due to which the draft increases and a draft occurs.
In addition, the air near the ceiling will be the hottest. Accordingly, the top shelf should be made on maximum height. It is important to consider that a person should be able to sit on it without resting his head on the ceiling. The recommended distance is 1–1.1 m from it.
The optimal height of the shelf is 45 cm. If necessary, this parameter can be increased to 65 cm, but sitting on it may be uncomfortable. To fix this, you can build a step 25 cm high.
The rest bench is two-tiered. The height of the lower tier is 65 cm, the upper one is 105 cm. The width is 35 and 70 cm, respectively.
The sauna is smaller in size when compared to a Russian bath. For 3–4 people, a room of 3.3 m2 will be enough. Shelves should be installed in several tiers along the walls. Wherein optimal height ceilings - 2.1 m.
The length of the wall opposite the entrance is at least 2 m. In order for air to circulate properly, it is important to maintain the ratio of sizes. If you produce correct calculation, then the shelves with places to lie on the upper tier will be exposed to heat from the stove with acceptable air humidity.
The main task of the steam room is to provide high temperature. In the sauna it reaches 120°C. This requires a certain heating of the stove. However, heat in the steam room will be transferred not only from it, but also from the surrounding air. Therefore you cannot post metal stoves close to shops. They can heat up the air very much, which can cause burns.
It is also not recommended to equip a small steam room with a metal stove, as this is dangerous to health. The height of the ceilings in this case will not solve the problem.
Arranging a large steam room with an electric stove is a pointless undertaking, since the cost of electricity will not be offset by any comfort.
To determine optimal sizes premises, the following fact must be taken into account: heat radiation in space diverges in such a way that its intensity after some time weakens in inverse proportion to a value equal to the square of the distance from the radiation device. Accordingly, people located at a distance of 3 m from the stove will be able to receive 4 times less heat than if they were located 1.5 m from the device. Create
This is the disadvantage of large pairs - in order for the heat to reach in the required quantity, you will need to make the stove too hot or overheat the air. Both options are harmful to human health. It is also worth remembering that the main condition high efficiency sauna procedures are to dissipate heat. The larger the steam room, the better this process will occur. Therefore, it is recommended to choose average values for the area of a given room.
To optimize the space inside the steam room, you will need to minimize the base of the floor and increase the area of the shelves. It is recommended to muffle the space under them to reduce the heated volume. This will make it possible to save fuel for the stove and reduce the heating time of the sauna.
At the next stage, you need to decide on the materials that will be used in the process of building the sauna. You need to prepare:
You can build a sauna, which consists of one steam room with a locker room, or you can also prepare a washing room or a relaxation room. The set of materials will depend on this.
The main material for a sauna is wood. These can be logs, bars or boards. You can choose exclusively wood to construct the entire structure, including the base and roof. Another option is to use blocks or bricks.
Additionally, the log house can be lined with brick to make it more wear-resistant and reduce thermal conductivity.
Log house - logs with specially prepared grooves. They are used for longitudinal fixation. For perpendicular fastening, notches are required. A row of stacked logs is called a crown. To connect the crowns, grooves (have a round shape) and notches are required. If everything is done correctly, then heat loss is excluded.
Pine and larch logs are suitable for making the structure. There should be no resin bags on their inner parts. It is recommended to make the lower crown from dried oak logs, the upper ones from linden or white spruce logs. The fibers should be straight, not slanted.
If the fibers are inclined, this can lead to significant deformation of the material during the drying process. As a result, the wood will crack.
Nowadays you can find saunas made of glued profiled timber.
Advantages of this design:
The disadvantage is the high cost.
It is easy to make a sauna from such material with your own hands, and the process takes much less time. There is no heat loss at all, since there are no gaps or cracks.
The heater is most often used because it can provide optimal temperature and humidity.
Select location brick construction necessary at the drawing stage. In the process of laying the base, it is necessary to prepare a place for the stove. A special place for storing firewood is also recommended.
To lay the structure you will need M75 or M150 brick. The amount of material depends on the thermal conductivity of the walls and the layout of the room. On average, 35–40 bricks are needed per 1 m2. For good draft, the chimney device must protrude at least 0.5 m above the roof.
Continuous and temporary stoves are installed in saunas. The latter are able to heat the building more efficiently by heating the stones with hot smoke. The steam from a continuous stove is cleaner.
Heaters can be closed or open camera backfill. This affects the quality of the steam.
Standard board dimensions: thickness - 0.5 cm, width - 15 cm, length - 4 m.
Accordingly, 4 x 0.15 x 0.5 = 0.03 m3 is the area of one board.
The width and length of the sauna is 3.7 m, so to install the floor base you need to prepare 25 boards 15 cm wide and 4 m long.
To arrange the ceiling in a bathhouse, you need 38 boards of lining. The calculation of the material is carried out according to the same scheme. The thickness of one board is 22 mm, width is 100 mm.
In order to complete the interior decoration of the sauna and install partitions, you need 22 mm thick lining.
If you plan to place the boards vertically, you will need approximately 153 boards.
Standard dimensions: board length - 3 m, width - 10 cm, thickness - 2.2 cm.
3 x 0.01 x 0.22 = 0.01 m3 - area of one board.
2.1 x 24 = 51 m2
There are 3 boards in 1 m2, respectively 51 x 3 = 153 lining boards for the entire steam room.
To perform a vapor barrier on the internal walls and ceiling structure can be applied various materials, among which are especially popular vapor barrier film and a breathable membrane.
For a sauna 3.7x3.7 m, 44 m2 of material will be required.
To perform the calculation, you need to find out the total area of the ceiling structure and walls, while partitions do not need to be taken into account.
Length excluding partitions - 14.1 m.
2.1x14.1=29.61 m2.
The width and length of the ceiling structure is 3.7 m. The area is 3.7x3.7 = 13.69 m2.
At the next stage, the materials for the foundation are calculated. The need for cement, crushed stone, sand and other elements will depend on what type of base is planned to be made.
If it is a columnar foundation, then you will need asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 20 cm and a length of 150 cm. In the center of each of them, 2 reinforcement rods with a diameter of 5 mm must be mounted.
To build a sauna base you need:
If you plan to mix the solution manually, then you need to prepare a metal container and a shovel. You can also use a construction mixer or a high-power electric drill with a special attachment.
In the process of building a sauna it will not be possible to do without electric jigsaw. With this tool you can make cuts and cuts to achieve unusual shapes in different materials.
Construction must begin by pouring the foundation. It is recommended to make a strip foundation for the sauna. It will need to be buried at least 75 cm. The width of the structure should be approximately 26–30 cm, the height of the part above the ground should be 20–25 cm. Small holes should be made in the basement half for air ventilation. This will protect the product from dampness and high humidity.
The structure can be made of boards, but they do not need to be varnished. Another option is to use tiles, under which a heating system can be installed.
The disadvantage is that such a floor slips. However, a special wooden grate will solve this problem.
A drainage system must be provided.
If you are planning to build a sauna from wooden beam, then you need to make a five-level harness. You will need to follow these steps:
If the ventilation is not designed correctly, then in the future dampness may appear in the building and fungus may form. Overheating is also possible, which can lead to a fire.
For correct device ventilation, it is important to provide inlet and exhaust openings.
The size of the ventilation hole can be calculated. For every 1 m 3 of steam room you need a hole with an area of 24 cm 2.
Ventilation vents should be positioned as follows:
The air that enters through the first hole will pass close to the stove, heat up and rise to the ceiling. Through top hole fresh air will flow in, which can replace the stagnant air on the top shelf.
Fans are not allowed to be used for forced circulation, as this may cause burns.
The wiring in the sauna is installed taking into account high electrical safety measures. It is allowed to use heat-resistant wire with double insulation. The electrician must calculate the required power of the electrical network.
All lighting fixtures must be equipped with sealed hoods. They should be installed on walls or under the ceiling.
Lighting fixtures should not be placed above the stove.
At the next stage, you need to build the sheathing and sheathe the walls. The sequence of actions is as follows:
The size must be selected based on the prepared opening. The height from the bottom of the door to the floor base should be at least 12–15 cm. There should be no locks or latches. Only magnetic mounts can be used.
Equipment can be installed only after finishing. If the structure is located in a separate building, then you can install a real stove. However, if you plan to use a heater, you must first install it, and then move on to finishing.
We need to make a fence for the stove. Ideal for this are boards that were used to make benches. The distance from the slats to the stove should be at least 5 cm. The height of the fence can be greater than the heater by a maximum of 4–5 cm.
It is important to choose the right stones. Their shape and quality affect the level of comfort. The stone should be even, smooth and round.
Cobblestones with cracks and gouged areas are not suitable.
First of all, stones are laid out on the stove big size. There are smaller pebbles on them. They should be washed thoroughly with water and dried every 6 months. Suitable for sauna:
You can use any of them.
The final stage of construction is the internal and external finishing. It is best to cover a sauna with clapboard. Each type of wood has its own advantages:
The disadvantage of alder is that it is soft. Consequently, impacts may cause dents.
The finishing instructions are as follows:
There is no need to treat the lining inside the sauna.
Before using a sauna, you need to learn how to do it correctly. Basic recommendations:
It is possible to build a sauna with your own hands, but it is important to take into account all the nuances, as well as prepare high-quality materials and tools. This must be strictly followed step by step instructions and listen to the advice of professionals.
For a Russian person, a bathhouse is not a luxury, but a vital necessity. Even historians are convinced that the love for a bath broom and good heat is literally in our blood, and even in the poorest villages next to rickety dilapidated huts, new steam rooms were regularly built every five years (the old ones burned down). And Peter I, during his trip to France, could not stand being without his family for even two days, urgently ordering the construction of a Russian bathhouse right on the banks of a foreign river, which shocked the natives quite a bit. But what to do if building today is so expensive, and public steam rooms are not to everyone’s liking? And if relaxing in a steam room is not just useful procedures, but also valuable communication with friends, barbecue and the opportunity to breathe fresh air? Then we will learn the cunning tricks of modern Russian masters who manage to build their steam rooms literally for vacation pay.
So let's look at the most successful projects construction of baths and their implementation, where the main task was to save as much as possible, but at the same time not lose the comfort of bath procedures. After all, as they say, the most budget-friendly bathhouse is the vestibule of a summer commuter train.
Agree, no savings are worth the loss of health, property or life. But the saddest situations occur when the issue of cheapness is approached thoughtlessly: such baths first slowly poison their owners by releasing hazardous substances, and then either burn or quickly deteriorate. But this does not mean that it is better to give up and give all your money to the construction team - it is better to simply refuse dangerous use during construction from the very beginning:
If you are building a bathhouse with your own hands and are forced to save as much as possible on materials, carefully calculate each step, consult with specialists and do not leave anything unattended “it seems to work.” And finally, if you have a limited budget, it’s better to save on cubic meters of steam room, but not on its finishing materials. This is the advice.
Let's take a little look at affordable insulation materials. So, basalt wool is made from stone (basalt). Its main advantage is that the fibers inside the insulation are not connected chemically, but with a different technology, and therefore even when placed behind foil in the steam room, hazardous substances will not be released. This insulation is non-flammable and insulates the firebox well. For a bath - the most the best option. If you want to save money, then put one layer on the ceiling basalt wool and a couple of layers of other, cheaper material.
Penofol - porous propylene with polyethylene film and foil coating - is also used as an economical option. You can purchase it at in roll form, and attach directly to a bare wall. This material - good bridge heat between the wall itself and the insulation.
So, step by step process:
So your compact and inexpensive steam room is ready.
If the walls, due to savings, are not too strong, then the smaller the bathhouse in volume, the better - so its structural properties will be higher.
And here good example construction of a budget bathhouse from wood concrete - the price is not much more expensive than frame technology. So, the outer walls of the steam room will be 20 cm thick, inside - brick partition from the oven.
Here's what the construction process looks like:
This is such a budget-friendly and quite successful bathhouse.
When choosing wood concrete, pay attention: according to its density, it can be thermal insulating and structural. The first has a density of 400-500 kg/m, the second - 500-850 kg/m. This material is used for the construction of self-supporting walls and has good heat and sound insulation.
And if you can’t imagine a Russian steam room made of another material, like timber, you can build this relatively budget option.
Remember: the first step to huge savings when building your own sauna is to build it yourself!
The beams for the bathhouse frame can even be made from collected firewood, if desired. The main thing is to choose one without defects and knots, and be sure to treat it with an antiseptic.
So, let’s build a budget sauna from improvised means:
Such a bathhouse lasts a surprisingly long time, the steam makes you happy, and spending time in it is a pleasure. And you can always find disadvantages.
But if you don’t have the funds to build a steam room at all, you shouldn’t despair - today there are many options for building a steam room literally out of nothing. Let's take a closer look.
This is the most common one, only in larger sizes. Part of it is covered by a wooden lattice screen, behind which the stove is hidden. There is a small bench in front of the screen. Even three people can steam in such a bathhouse at the same time. But this option is only for summer: they rolled it out onto the site, placed it horizontally, threw firewood into the stove and you can pour water on the stones. But as a low-budget option, it’s nothing at all.
Such a bathhouse is mainly taken on camping trips, but if there is no other alternative, it can also be used on the site. It will not cost much, because it is an ordinary tent in which a stove or electric stove is placed. This is no longer the same soft Russian bathhouse, but as a temporary phenomenon it also has the right to exist.
There is also a fashion for doing this in the bathroom. So, we move the washing machine to the kitchen, and in its place we build something similar to a cabinet. This is a small structure, about 1.5 m high, made of a frame and covered with clapboard. Inside there is one shelf for a seat and a built-in steam generator. The person sits down, closes the door, and turns on the device. But his head remains outside for safety's sake. Using special aromatic oils and other SPA elements is quite a good way to improve your health. We can say that this is the smallest and cheap sauna in the world.
If you have the opportunity to get hold of a non-working minibus or a car with a body, you can build it right into it small bathhouse. Our website even has detailed master classes on how to do this, and such an undertaking will turn out to be much more profitable than starting the construction of a steam room by pouring the foundation. Experiment!
A vacation without a bath is not a vacation. Neither a summer shower nor a bath can replace a bathhouse in a suburban area. Of course, if your budget is very limited, you should not attempt to build a two-story bathhouse complex with a swimming pool. But build a small one cozy bathhouse on a suburban plot it is possible with minimal investment.
In this article, we will look at how to build a budget sauna with your own hands, reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, and tell you how to prevent lapses and mistakes for novice craftsmen.
The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. Wooden sauna can be in the form of a log house or frame.
Wood is a classic material for building baths. Wood is valued for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths quickly warm up, and the essential resins released into the air have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors.
However, wood is far from perfect option for construction. In order for the walls of the bathhouse to be smooth, you need to choose high-quality timber or logs. Don't forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the log house will “lead.”
It is important to be able to work with an ax and a saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut locks to connect corners, external and internal walls, and ceilings. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this involves additional costs and is not relevant for the construction of a budget bathhouse. It is best to carry out the construction with at least two people, because it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns alone, especially the top ones.
For the construction of a bathhouse, hardwood, such as linden, is best suited. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area allow, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to lightweight tape version(monolithic or prefabricated).
What else can you save on? For example, on insulation and finishing. If the bathhouse will be used for its intended purpose only in the warm season, there is no need to purchase insulation, beams for sheathing, steam and wind insulation, or finishing decorative material for the facade of the bathhouse. Wood, if thoroughly sanded and coated with protective impregnation and varnish, is quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into landscape design private land plots.
In a budget bathhouse, you can save on organizing a full-fledged sewerage system and water supply. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made to pour, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant experience of the bath procedures.
What can't you save on? Wood is a highly flammable material. If you just neglect to close the ash door, a falling hot ember will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible if the rules are ignored fire safety when installing a stove and Therefore, in no case should you skimp on:
We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, and unsightly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of their strength.
Very important in wooden baths organize ventilation correctly. Even if the bathhouse is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to like the aroma of mustiness and mold, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.
Now let’s talk more specifically about wood prices in order to roughly calculate construction costs.
| Lumber | Breed | Section or diameter, cm | Price in rubles per cubic meter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Profiled timber | Pine, spruce | 140x140 | From 11.5 to 14.5 thousand rubles. |
| Profiled timber | Larch | 140x140 | From 16.5 to 18.5 thousand rubles. |
| Round timber | Larch | From 180 to 460 | From 8.5 to 10 thousand rubles. |
| Carriage | Larch | 150x250 | From 15 thousand rubles. |
*The average cost of building materials is current for 2017.
Based on the cost of new lumber, budget sauna It definitely won't work. The way out of the situation is to buy used timber at a price of 1000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also be useful if used correctly.
A bathhouse made of blocks or bricks will undoubtedly be more durable than a wooden one. And a fire that suddenly breaks out is not scary stone walls. At your own taste and discretion, you can build a bathhouse of any size and shape, as long as funds and personal time allow.
Brick manufacturers always have a wide range of products from the most different forms, shades, textures. For example, by combining bricks of two different shades when building walls, you can build a bathhouse that will be very neat and aesthetically pleasing in appearance.
On a note! IN brick bath the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmittance. But in this case, it is important to take care of effective ventilation.
A brick bath takes longer to warm up than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. Brick walls need finishing, and this adds expense items to the overall estimate. For laying bricks, a cement-sand mortar is used, which can be bought ready-made and simply diluted with water the right proportions, or prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.
How much will it cost to build a bathhouse made of M100 ordinary brick?
| Building material | Description | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Width 120 mm, height 65 mm, length 250 mm. | From 6.20 rub. for 1 piece. | |
| Has the same dimensions as a regular one. Used for laying those walls that are exposed to direct heat. For example, a base for a stove and a protective screen are laid out of fireclay bricks. | From 41 rub. for 1 piece. | |
| River sand for preparing masonry mixture or concrete mortar for pouring the foundation | From 68 rubles for 30 kg | |
| The purpose is the same as that of sand. Crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. | From 86 rub. for 30 kg | |
| M400 | From 195 rub. for 50 kg |
For an example of calculating the cost of masonry, let’s take single brick and laying in one brick (wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the table data we get:
Typically, bricks are purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible defects. And to the cost of laying 1 square meter of wall you need to add the cost of the mortar. Don’t forget that you may need a concrete mixer, joint compound, a set of mason’s tools, etc.
Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is the high speed of construction. The disadvantages are similar to bricks.
The blocks are laid with reinforcement in the rows, fixation is carried out special glue or cement-sand mortar.
To build a bathhouse, blocks measuring 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions blocks of smaller thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 piece.
Number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:
We conclude: for the construction of a budget bathhouse, it is preferable to use not brick, but blocks 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm. You need to take into account the cost of glue for the blocks (from 155 rubles for 30 kg, consumption is approximately 1.2- 1.4 kg per 1 sq. m of masonry) and do not forget that blocks are purchased with a reserve.
Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bathhouse. You can always buy, for example, a used brick for pennies, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bathhouse, will not begin to collapse.
A big plus of building a bathhouse from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided the reinforcement is done correctly, the walls will not crack. Even when building a budget bathhouse, you should not neglect the safety margin of the walls, so as not to start working in the next few years major repairs baths
foam block
We will consider the process of building a bathhouse with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to arrange three main rooms: a relaxation room or dressing room, a shower room, and a steam room. If the free space on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bathhouse, you can reduce the dimensions to 4x4 m, and divide the internal space into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower or other amenities.
So, let's begin. Inspect your land plot, prepare the site for construction. It is necessary to remove debris, uproot stumps, remove the top layer of soil with grass growing on it, level and compact the area.
You need to prepare a bathhouse design in advance with the order of the masonry. Using the drawings it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and carry out construction.
Mark the area, dig trenches, and pour a shallow strip foundation. Don't forget about the products. You can read more about pouring technology.
It is important to especially carefully level the upper surface of the foundation during the pouring process. If, however, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with cement-sand mortar.
Step 1. We lay it on the foundation strip waterproofing material, for example, strips of roofing felt.
roofing felt
Step 2. Mix cement-sand mortar for brick laying. To prepare the solution we use the following proportions:
Important! We recommend that you first add water and detergent to the concrete mixer or solution container, then add cement and sand, stirring constantly. Consistency ready solution it will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, non-blurring trace will remain. Kneading should be carried out for 3 to 5 minutes.
We transfer the finished solution into buckets and transport it to the construction site.
Step 3. We begin laying the brick plinth. We will work from the corners of the bathhouse.
Apply the mortar to the brick with a trowel. We lay the brick on the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). Place a bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, tap the brick with the handle of a trowel. We repeat the procedure at the next corner of the bathhouse foundation.
It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we tighten the mooring thread and additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. Place the second brick at each corner perpendicular to the first.
We lay the plinth “in one and a half bricks”. At standard sizes bricks, the total width of the base will be 38 cm. This width is made up of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is the connecting mortar seam.
Place the first outer row with a spoon facing outwards. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing it into the mortar and moving it slightly back and forth. We leave a gap between adjacent bricks, into which we add mortar with a trowel. We immediately remove the excess solution with a trowel. We knock the bricks so that they are all in the same plane (the reference point is a stretched mooring thread). As a result, if you look at the base from the “street” side, you will see a row laid “in half a brick.”
We lay the inner row with a poke towards the future premises of the bathhouse. Next, we carry out the laying according to the order scheme, observing the bandaging of the seams.
We lay out 2 rows of bricks and move on to arranging the floor covering.
Step 4. To arrange the floor covering, you need to prepare the beams.
The beams must be fixed in the “sockets” of the plinth to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width of the interior, add 20 cm, and get the length of the beams. The section of beams can be selected using the table.
*Section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on edge. Maximum load for overlap 400 kg/m 3.
We cut the roofing felt into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing felt and fix it with a construction stapler.
We lay the beams on their ends, maintaining an equal distance between them.
We continue with bricklaying.
We lay out two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.
The height of a single row brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints will be 150 mm high, the top surface of the beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.
Laying the fourth row
Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the mortar. The masonry will be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.
Step 5. The basement is built, we move on to laying walls from aerated concrete blocks.
We lay a layer of roofing felt on the brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bathhouse.
We begin work again from the corners of the bathhouse. Mix the solution and place a layer on top of the roofing material.
Level the solution with a notched trowel. Installing the first block.
Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the plinth. The most difficult thing is to bring both blocks to zero. We check with a hydraulic level, bubble level, if you have a laser level, it is better to use it.
There is no hurry here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.
We lay out the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow installing a whole block, you need to use a hacksaw with small teeth to make a cut. After cutting, sweep away the dust with a brush.
When laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.
Step 6. Let's move on to reinforcing the first row of blocks.
We prepare a set of tools for work in advance.
| Tool | Approximate minimum cost, rub. |
|---|---|
| 450 |
| 490 |
| 500 |
| 600 |
| 365 |
*Used tools will cost less.
For reinforcement we use corrugated rods of class A3. The diameter of the rods is 8 mm. It is not advisable to take reinforcement of greater thickness.
Using a hand wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw two parallel straight lines using a ruler on the surface of the blocks in advance with a pencil. At the corners of the bathhouse and at the junction of the internal partitions with the external walls, the grooves are round and parallel.
We clean the surface of the groove from dust using a damp brush.
We take the reinforcement and put it in grooves. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. Please ensure that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The rods can be connected at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.
We remove the reinforcement from the grooves and place it on the surface of the blocks.
Mix glue for aerated concrete (approximate cost for 25 kg - 220 rubles).
Pour water into the bucket, then add the dry mixture from the bag. Mix the glue with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speeds (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue should not spread.
Fill the grooves with glue. Spread the glue with a spatula. We embed the reinforcement in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks is smooth, without grooves or bumps.
Step 7 We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. Let's start applying glue under the block.
Important! Do not forget about the need to lay blocks with a dressing similar to brickwork"half a brick." The displacement of the upper block relative to the lower one should be from 15 cm to ½ the length of the block.
It is most convenient to apply glue with a ladle (trowel). The working width of the trowel must correspond to the width of the block. This will allow you to apply the glue quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use homemade devices, for example, as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.
On a note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched spatulas or special ladles that can reduce glue consumption.
We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correct installation of the blocks in two planes - vertical and horizontal. If necessary, grind the surfaces of the blocks.
To make tying the blocks easier, you can start laying with half a block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. Sweep away the dust with a brush. Apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.
We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correct installation of the blocks in two planes - vertical and horizontal.
Important! If the bathhouse is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.
cement M600
Step 8 We move on to laying lintels and their reinforcement.
There should be reinforced lintels above the window and door openings. The easiest way is to use U-blocks, but this comes with additional costs.
To save money, you can manually make recesses in ordinary gas blocks. To do this, we make two cuts along the width of the recess on the block with a hacksaw, then remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.
To lay the blocks, we make formwork from boards. The blocks will rest on the top of the formwork. We fix the horizontal board with supports and fasten the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.
The reinforced belt should protrude beyond the window and door opening by at least 15 cm. We install the blocks on the formwork. We fasten the ends of the blocks with glue.
Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.
Let's start knitting the armored belt. For tying we use plastic clamps (ties). The reinforced belt consists of four long parallel rods, and every 0.5 m there are vertical sections of reinforcement. In cross-section, the armored belt should form a square.
Important! The armored belt cannot be laid directly on aerated concrete. Plastic clips must be used. Without clamps, the reinforced frame will not occupy correct position and will not be filled with concrete mixture on all sides.
We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. We compact the concrete mixture by piercing it with a rod or wooden strip. Level the surface as thoroughly as possible.
Now you need to take a technical break and wait until the solution sets. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.
Step 9 So, the concrete in the lintels has hardened, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is insufficient, we lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the first floor and at the same time will serve as an armored belt.
We make the armored belt on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armored belt will be poured along the entire perimeter of the external and internal walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.
We pour concrete.
Step 10 The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. Let's move on to arranging the interfloor ceiling. It will be wooden. We place antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends on an armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the base was built.
But since now we are not laying brick, but gas block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.
It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select even rectangular niches in the blocks with a chisel and hammer. We lay the blocks in a standard manner, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.
Important! In our construction example, the bathhouse will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams extend beyond the bathhouse wall.
Step 11 Laying the subfloor. Laying it down edged board on top of the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws right through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, take hardware 8 cm long.
We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.
In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are installed, decorative finishing will be done, a foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, clapboard or a simple board made of hardwood will be nailed.
Step 12 Usually one-story bathhouse owners have enough for a comfortable pastime. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.
Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put a small sofa and a table, setting up a relaxation room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be pleasant to relax and cool down by going out onto the small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase the efficiency of ventilation and reduce the cost of building materials.
The roof has a complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, the perpendicularly located roof slopes on both sides are clearly visible.
Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to building a simple pitched or gable roof.
The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:
Floor beams and rafters
You can watch the video to see how a roof of complex configuration is erected.
gas blocks
Step 1. We attach the Mauerlat on top of the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (wood grouse).
We drill holes in the boards and then in the blocks. We hammer in the dowels. We lay a layer of roofing felt as waterproofing. We lay the Mauerlat board and screw in the screws (capcaillie).
Step 2. Install vertical racks and horizontal strapping beam. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bathhouse – 30 cm. The roof slope will be 18 degrees.
We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.
On a note! To prevent the racks from loosening due to gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.
Step 3. We lay the rafters (we place straight boards on edge and fasten them with perforated corners to the horizontal beams of the front and rear frames).
Step 4. We install counter-lattice boards perpendicular to the rafters.
Step 5. We fasten the corrugated sheets. We cut off the counter-battens sticking out at the edges of the boards.
Step 6. We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install posts made of timber and one additional jib to later attach the sheathing.
Step 7 We hem the rough ceiling.
Step 8 We cover the frame with plywood. We treat plywood sheets with protective impregnation.
Step 9 We foam the gaps between the blocks and plywood.
Step 10 If decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we attach protective canopies made of tin.
As decorative finishing You can use plaster on the façade of the bathhouse. It is necessary to select a mixture for cellular concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all the moisture from the plaster, decorative coating cracks and falls off.
To plaster the facade, you need to clean it with a grater from any remaining glue and sand off any unevenness, if any. After sanding, you need to apply the “Aerated Concrete-Contact” primer to the walls. The plaster solution is applied with a wide spatula over a fiberglass mesh secured with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent.
