Grapes can be propagated by seed and vegetative methods. The first is used quite rarely, mainly grapes are propagated by the vegetative method. good results this can be achieved using chibouks - grape cuttings intended for planting.
They must be harvested in the fall and planted at home in pots at the end of winter. In the spring, germinated cuttings should be transferred to the garden, after preparing the soil. By autumn, grape vines will already grow on your site.
All received from vegetative reproduction The plant is essentially a clone, so the resulting vines will be exact copies of the mother plant and will have the same properties.
Grape chubuki for growing at home, you can buy or prepare yourself. If you chose the second option, you should follow a few simple rules:
To get a quality grape chubuk for planting, you must:
The cuttings prepared in this way must be hermetically sealed and stored in a cool place. For this, the lower shelf of the refrigerator, cellar or basement is suitable. Please note that some of the chibouks may not take root and die, so they must be harvested with a margin. It is necessary to plant cuttings at home in late February or early March.
Proper harvesting and storage of chibouks is key moment if everything was done correctly, further process will not cause much difficulty.
For planting cuttings, you need to prepare containers for seedlings with a substrate. Usually, plastic bottles with a cut off top are used for this. You can also take simple plastic cups. A good substrate for germinating grape cuttings can be obtained by mixing the earth with sand, humus and sawdust.
There should be no excess moisture, watering will be done through the pan, so it is necessary to make holes in the bottom of the cup with an awl for its outflow.
Before planting, you need to check the safety of the cutting. Press on it with secateurs:
Also, the safety of the grape stem can be checked by cutting it: a good seedling has a fresh cut of a light green color, an unusable one will have black specks.
Cuttings suitable for planting must be soaked in water for several days. Then they should be placed in a tub with a root formation stimulator for a day.
The chibouks prepared in this way must first be placed in jars of water in order for the roots to sprout. You can put a 2-3 cm layer of cotton wool on the bottom of the jar and pour the same layer of water on top. Roots should appear in a few weeks.
The room in which the containers with seedlings are located should be well lit. Usually they are placed on the windowsill in a room that is best lit by the sun. Precisely because sunny weather usually comes along with spring, it is recommended to plant grape cuttings no earlier than the end of February.
To make seedlings grow faster, you can install lamps above containers with planted cuttings. daylight. Another option is to hang foil that will reflect light onto the containers.
In order to ensure best growth grape cuttings planted in containers can be used for kilching: if the lower part of the chubuk is warm, the roots form faster than the buds.
If the glasses with seedlings are on the windowsill, under which there is a radiator, the easiest way is to remove heat from it. To do this, you can put two bars on the windowsill, and place a piece of plywood on top of them so that it protrudes beyond the edge of the windowsill. Containers are placed on plywood. It will be heated by the air rising from the battery, and due to this, the lower parts of the containers will be warm.
There are more complex options: for example, you can use a heater for a terrarium as a kilchevator. In any case, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature at the roots of the cutting is not higher than 30-35 ° C.
After the roots sprout, the cuttings must be planted in glasses with a substrate. It is necessary to plant to a depth of up to 5-6 cm. If tall glasses made from plastic bottles are used, the substrate can be added to them in such an amount that the upper kidney of the chubuk is at the level of the upper edge of the glass.
You can water every day or every two days. To do this, it is better to use warm water, pouring it into the pan. Another option is to water every five days, adding a glass of water (about 100 ml) at a time to the container.
In addition to regular watering, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil and sometimes fertilize. As noted above, some of the chibouks may not take root and die.
Sprouted grape cuttings should be planted in the garden in spring in previously prepared soil. To do this, it is best to choose a well-lit area with loose soil.
In order for the grapes to take root well, it is necessary:
Plant seedlings sprouted at home on permanent place in May. It will be better if you harden the shank for 5 days before planting, exposing them to the street. After planting the cuttings, the soil should be watered regularly so that it remains constantly moist.
Grapes are propagated by cuttings very well. If you act according to these recommendations, you will be able to grow strong and healthy seedlings at home, ready to be transferred to the soil. By autumn, vines with a strong root system will grow from cuttings planted in the garden.
How to expand your vineyard without spending too much? Most ancient way- propagation of grapes by layering will allow you to root the vines without separating them from the mother bush, however, this way you can grow relatively a small amount of rooted shoots.
One of the time-tested ways of propagating a culture is to sprinkle the vines with earth. If it is still green, then the procedure is carried out at the end of June, if it is already lignified - in the spring. Sprinkle in such a way that the top remains above the surface of the earth. In autumn, each of the sprouts is separated from its neighbors, placed in markets and cleaned in special room until spring. For the northern regions, this option is practically not suitable, since the roots will form at the point of growth of the shoot, and such roots often die from frost.
Powdering the vine with earth has an original modified version, in which at the end of June a bag with a special soil mixture of soil and peat is attached to the base of the shoot. By autumn, roots form in this place and a full-fledged grape seedling can be used for its intended purpose. However, this option also has the same drawback - young roots will be sensitive to negative temperatures.
To obtain high-quality material in a significant amount, you can use the layering method:
In the cold northern regions, the most widespread method of propagation of grapes by cuttings. The material is harvested from autumn and stored in a box with wet sand to protect it from drying out. In March, they begin to germinate in glass jars, and after the appearance of the first roots, they are planted in bags with soil. May is the time for planting young seedlings in a permanent place.
Grafting of branches is usually used to replace one variety with another. Sowing with seeds does not justify itself, since out of a thousand seedlings only one or two are of high quality, the rest grow worse than the original.
most popular and effective way propagation of grapes by cuttings is considered winter or summer. It is based on the natural ability of a culture to fully recover from a single shoot, retaining all the properties of the mother vine. This method is used when industrial cultivation of these plants, amateur gardeners know how to propagate grapes. Since, grown from a cutting, it has its own, and not grafted root system, it is often called self-rooted.
If you decide on own experience to learn how to grow grapes from a cutting, you will have to take care of the preparation of the material in advance, even when. When cutting off unnecessary branches, pay attention to the shoots that bear fruit in summer, the diameter of which is 7-10 mm. As a cutting, a shoot is suitable, which is cut into a replacement knot, or the middle part of the fruit arrow.
The most popular and effective way is the propagation of grapes by cuttings in winter or summer.
How the cutting is prepared:
The cuttings lying in storage during the winter should be inspected 1-2 times and turned over to the other side.
Video about propagation of grapes by cuttings
A couple of weeks before planting in the ground for germination, in early February, the cuttings need to be taken out, checked for freshness by pressing on the cross section with a pruner. If a few drops of water come out, it means that the stalk is well preserved, no drops appear - the twig is dry, moisture oozes from the branch without pressure - the stalk is rotten. Make a fresh cross section and pay attention to its color: it should be light green, there should not be any black blotches.
In order for the propagation of grapes to be successful, you need to soak in warm water those cuttings that are best preserved over the winter. Soaking lasts two days with a daily water change, after which it is recommended to place the branches for a day in a root formation stimulator.
Before propagating grapes by cuttings, you need to germinate them at home in plastic cups or bottles.
In order for the propagation of grapes to be successful, you need to soak in warm water those cuttings that are best preserved over the winter.
Option 1. Sprouting in glasses:
Seedlings will need to be watered every day or every two days warm water. And when the roots are visible at the walls of the glass, and 4 leaves grow on the branch, the bottle can be removed.
Option 2. Sprouting in a bottle:
The cup can be removed when the shoot no longer fits in it.
Put a bottle with a handle with a peephole from the window. The cup can be removed when the shoot no longer fits in it. It should be watered from below through the pan, pouring a little water into it and placing a bottle with a seedling there for 15 minutes.
It is possible to germinate green cuttings cut at the very beginning of flowering. To do this, you will need shoots that are obtained by stepping and breaking off branches in the spring. Cut shoots immediately put in a bucket filled with clean water. Take out each shoot, cut into cuttings with two buds and put them back in the water.
You can germinate and green cuttings, cut at the very beginning of flowering
For cuttings, the lower cut should be made oblique under the lower node. When cutting off the top above the knot, leave a stump of 2-3 cm. Ready-made green cuttings are planted in a box or in separate plastic cups. It is necessary to create a slight darkening for them, which is removed after the cuttings noticeably started to grow.
Video about the propagation of grapes by green cuttings
All summer the cuttings will grow, and in the fall they will need to be placed in the cellar for storage. Transplant the seedlings into the ground in the spring and grow in a bucket during the summer. Seedlings obtained from cuttings are planted in the vineyard in mid-September.
The chronology of actions during the propagation of grapes by layering obeys the following algorithm: Did you know that no more than two layers are formed from one bush, and layering can also be done in the middle of summer, if leaves are removed from the shoot before laying in the trench.
A curious fact: for high-quality rooting, two seasons may be required.
Regardless of the chosen method of propagation of girlish grapes, you should take care of soil preparation in advance: When planting seedlings, a distance of one meter is observed between two adjacent specimens.
If the seedlings have a lignified trunk, then planting them, taking into account weather conditions start at the end of April. Green vegetative specimens are best planted in June. When choosing autumn period(from October until frost) young plants should be carefully covered with peat, needles or sawdust. High-quality varietal grapes are a great value for a summer resident. But how to grow it if finances do not allow you to buy such seedlings? They will come to the rescue simple ways propagation of grapes - seeds, layering and chubukami. The first option is not very reliable, because genetic characteristics are lost during sowing. It remains only to master the propagation of grapes by layering and chibouks, since both methods fully preserve the properties of the mother vine.
Gardeners traditionally perform such agrotechnical work as propagation of grapes by cuttings in spring or autumn. The cut branch must have at least 4 buds - this is necessary for the good rooting of the future vine. Parts of the vine that are free from whiskers and leaves are suitable for germination. The bottom of the shoot is cut at an angle and placed in a solution of vitriol for disinfection.
In autumn, stiff petioles have time to cut before the first frost, so that the planting material contains a sufficient amount of nutrients. If there are few branches, they are stored in the refrigerator. If there is a lot, they clean it in the cellar. As an option, the workpiece can be dug into the ground.
Store chibouks in bundles in plastic bags or plastic bottles cut in half. On the packaging, be sure to make a note about the variety. The label will help to avoid confusion when propagation of grapes by cuttings at home will be carried out using different types creepers.
During storage planting material it is aired and watered daily 1-2 times in 48 hours. If the branches are in the refrigerator or basement, it is important to monitor the temperature of the room. In warm conditions, the buds are formed ahead of time, and this significantly spoils the quality of future seedlings.
Regardless of whether grapes are propagated by cuttings in spring or autumn, the blanks must be removed from storage and the edges cut with a knife. After squeezing, the twig should release a light “tear”. The secretion of cloudy juice indicates the unsuitability of the chubuk - it has rotted. If there is not a drop of moisture, then the petiole is dry. It is also necessary to inspect the cut for stains. A healthy, normally preserved cutting should not have them.
Sorted specimens are soaked for two days in warm filtered water. On the third day, the blanks are placed in a solution designed to stimulate root formation. Then the prepared chibouks need to be seated. To do this, use large plastic glasses filled with nutrient soil and sand. The mixture is moistened and a seedling is inserted into each container. From above it is covered with an empty glass, imitating the semblance of a greenhouse.
Planting grapes with cuttings in autumn in open ground is performed after the appearance of tender leaves. The work is being done in stages:
Consider how to propagate grapes by cuttings in late May - early June using green shoots. The material is harvested in the evening, simply breaking it off by hand. The branches are placed in a container with water, irrigated and covered with a damp cloth. In this form, they should stand until the morning in the basement.
In the morning, the branches are cut into cuttings, ignoring the top. Usually the cuts on the upper parts of the vine rot, so cuttings will be useless. The shoot is divided into segments so that each has 2 leaves and 2 eyes. A stump is still left above the upper kidney (up to 1.5 cm), and the lower cut is performed under the last knot. Half of the top sheet is cut off, the bottom leaflet is cut off completely.
Each copy of the planting material is placed a third of the length in a solution of Heteroauxin (half a tablet must be diluted in 1 liter of water). Optimum temperature water - 18 - 22 degrees. Exposure time - 8 - 10 hours in diffused light.
The blanks are planted in a deep box with smooth edges, filled in layers with a mixture fertile land with sand (10 cm) and washed coarse sand (up to 5 cm). The contents are plentifully watered and seedlings are placed according to the 10 x 10 scheme with a recess of 2–3 cm. The container is covered with polyethylene or whitewashed glass.
To be successful, you need high humidity. This condition is ensured by spraying seedlings from a spray bottle 4-5 times a day with warm water. When the rudiments of the root system appear, the frequency of irrigation is reduced up to 3 times.
The petioles are hardened after 3-4 weeks. First, the box is opened in the evenings for 10-15 minutes. Then the time is gradually increased so that the young stand in open form all day. Rooted material is grown in greenhouses or open ground. By autumn, it acquires developed roots and has a growth of 40 - 50 cm. The grown material is dug up and stored in the basement until spring. With the onset of warm days, the grapes are propagated by green cuttings in the chosen place.
Some farmers value grape propagation by layering more than cuttings. This work is simple, and it can easily be mastered by a novice grower. The essence of the event is the rooting of the shoot without separation from the mother plant. Experienced summer residents recommend applying this method in areas free from phylloxera.
Let us describe in detail how grapes propagate by layering:
One adult liana is capable of producing no more than two high-quality layers. If for some reason the described work was not completed in spring or autumn, grapes can be grown by layering at home as early as the first week of July.
To plant grapes on the site, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made seedling, there is no shortage of them in our time. But where do seedlings come from in the market, how are they grown, from what? After all, having minimal experience in gardening, it is very easy to grow a grape seedling yourself, at home.
Grapes, like almost all shrubs, can be propagated both by seeds and vegetative ways. Seed propagation at home is not used, since it is much more difficult to propagate by cuttings or layering. In addition, it is difficult to predict in advance what kind of variety will grow from seeds, so seed propagation is used mainly in breeding work.
In most cases, practicing vine growers use the cultivation of grape seedlings from cuttings. Somewhat less often, reproduction of various kinds is carried out by layering, that is, by dropping the vine, and grafting onto already planted adult grape bushes of another, frost- and disease-resistant variety. During vegetative propagation, all the properties of the bush from which the stalk, a long piece of the vine, or even a single bud for grafting were taken, are transferred to the new plant.
The most commonly used method of grape propagation is the harvesting of lignified cuttings and their rooting. It is so easy to perform that it can be recommended to a novice grower. True, simple does not mean “by itself”, you need to work hard, and a lot. First you need to get or buy cuttings of the variety you like somewhere and start this interesting process.
Cuttings are harvested, as a rule, during autumn pruning grapes or a little earlier - when the leaves have already ceased to be pure green, that is, the growing season is nearing completion, and the shoots, as far as they could, have matured and lignified. It is impossible to leave the harvesting of cuttings for the spring: it is not known what will happen to the weather in winter, how successfully the bushes will survive the frost.
When sending the cuttings for storage, do not forget to sign
The highest quality cuttings are obtained from the middle part of the vine: the top is usually not quite ripe, and there are few strong buds in the lower part. A fully matured vine cracks with some bending, but does not break. The cuttings are cut "with a margin", that is, with 5-6 eyes, despite the fact that they will need half the length directly for growing in the spring. It is better if their diameter is at least 5 mm, and the shoot from which they are cut has grown over the summer to at least one and a half meters in length.
In most cases cuttings will be required only at the end of winter, and until then they must be properly stored. You can keep them in the refrigerator if you have space, but it is more convenient in the cellar. The best temperature is about +1 o C. Before being sent to the cellar, the cuttings are soaked for 1–2 hours in a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate and a day in clean water. Store in plastic bags, leaving only the top outside. In winter, the integrity is checked and, if necessary, washed or just wiped from the detected mold. In case of drying - soak.
In the most warm regions you can plant lignified cuttings directly in the garden. Sometimes they are planted even immediately after autumn harvest, only slightly warmed with dry leaves or spruce branches. If the cuttings are planted in good soil, they take root easily and begin to grow with the onset of spring heat. To do this, cuttings with 3-4 buds are almost completely buried in the ground in autumn, leaving only one bud above the ground. But until spring, this kidney is also covered with earth. Often, to preserve heat and moisture, the resulting mound is covered with plastic wrap, and in the spring a hole is made in it for the growth of a young shoot. When it becomes warm and the stalk begins to throw out leaves and begins to grow, the film is removed, and the mound is raked.
Most often, cuttings are planted in the garden in the spring. In the central regions, the probability of success of such reproduction is small, and in the south in March, when the earth warms up to 10–12 ° C, cuttings are planted in the same way as in autumn, however, after serious preparation. First, the cuttings taken out of the cellar are disinfected, then both ends are cut off and soaked for several days in clean water.
Then, an oblique cut is made in the lower part just below the kidney, and the top is cut straight, 2–3 cm above the upper kidney. They put them in a jar, pour water 4-5 cm high and keep in a warm place until the roots peck. Water is periodically changed and added to keep the level constant. If the temperature of the water in the jar is from 25 to 30 ° C, and in the zone of the tops of the cuttings it is lower by 5–7 degrees, after three weeks white tubercles will appear on the cuttings near the surface of the water.
The roots are not allowed to grow, and if the weather allows, the cuttings with the rudiments of roots are planted deep in the garden. In this version, it makes no sense to make the cuttings short: you can plant with 6 buds, the roots will be stronger. With an inclined landing in the spring, two buds are left above the ground. Water well and maintain the soil during wet. If frost is still possible, cover with non-woven materials.
In the garden, it is better to plant cuttings already with small roots.
At first, the cuttings will grow roots, but the leaves will bloom almost immediately. And to the offensive completely warm weather shoots (one or two, you don’t need to leave more, even if they appear), they will quickly grow. By autumn, a good seedling will grow from the cutting. If the cutting was planted immediately in place, in well-fertilized soil and previously dug landing pit, you can leave the plant here. But usually it is transplanted to a permanent place, having prepared a hole in advance according to all the rules.
As a rule, especially in climatic conditions middle lane, grapes from cuttings begin to grow at home. They do this in different substrates, and very often wet sawdust is used instead of garden soil. Generally speaking, there are a lot of options for growing seedlings from cuttings, everyone chooses for himself the most simple one, in his opinion. Work starts in February. The cuttings are unpacked, disinfected, washed and checked whether they overwintered well.
Lightly scrape off the bark on the handle. If he is alive and can give life to a new plant, there will be tissue under the bark Green colour. Another color does not guarantee success: the stalk did not overwinter.
Chibouks are cut from good cuttings: this is the traditional name for cuttings with three buds. We will not introduce unnecessary terms, let them remain cuttings with us, especially since in the case of good buds, two are enough for reproduction. If you leave more than three kidneys, you will have to put whole buckets at home, this is not necessary.
The upper and lower cuts are made, as already mentioned: the lower is oblique, the upper is straight, and the cuttings are placed for 2-3 days in a bath of water (preferably snow). Well-soaked cuttings, in principle, can be immediately planted in prepared containers with a substrate. They will probably grow there. But for safety, they often do it differently:
The most convenient as pots are plastic one and a half liter bottles with a cut off narrowed top. Only in the bottom you need to make a few holes for removal excess water and place drainage from small pebbles or coarse sand. The best soil is considered a mixture of river sand and good garden soil (1: 1), but some lovers get by with sawdust, only they must first be doused with boiling water. The continuation looks like this:
It is worth saying that the first part of the described work (germination in water until cuttings are formed) is not mandatory, many amateurs plant cuttings in a container with a substrate and without roots, growing them already there. This option, on the one hand, is simpler, on the other hand, it is more difficult: it is necessary to more strictly monitor the humidity, light and temperature regime. In addition, there are grape varieties that do not give roots well, and such a number will not work for them.
Growing seedlings from green cuttings is possible for most shrubs, it is also used for grapes. On the one hand, this is a simpler procedure: it is performed in the summer, and there is no need to start at home with banks, and it is also not necessary to store the cuttings in the cellar in winter. On the other hand, it is possible to grow a seedling from a green cutting only if there is a good greenhouse in which you will have to maintain high and constant air humidity for a long time. Therefore, such breeding is more suitable for industrial nursery farms, where there is special equipment for creating artificial fog in a confined space. The algorithm of actions is as follows:
Thus, the essence of this technique is that the planted cuttings are constantly in conditions high humidity(about 80%, and in the heat - up to 100%) and air temperature from 20 to 30 ° C. Then after a month and a half they grow good roots and shoots up to 30 cm long, after which the cuttings are hardened and then transplanted into shkolku. Obviously, on ordinary summer cottages propagation of grapes by green cuttings is extremely difficult, but enthusiasts try, and some succeed.
Many shrubs are propagated by layering, that is, by dropping branches (shoots) in one way or another. This option is also possible in the case of grapes, and with a successful outcome in one summer, several new grape plants can be obtained in this way. In this way, they usually try to propagate difficult-to-root varieties. Since future seedlings, in fact, feed on the roots of the mother bush, they develop well and form a powerful root system of their own.
Usually they do it in early spring before the start of the growing season. Choose conveniently located powerful last year's shoots. AT right place they dig a rather deep ditch, up to half a meter, extending from the bush to the place where they are going to dig in the vine. Naturally, directly at the bush, it should not be deep, so as not to damage the roots. In the ditch, at the very bottom, they pour soil well fertilized with humus and superphosphate and lay the shoot. It must be bent carefully so as not to break it, and you can attach it to the bottom of the ditch with a piece of bent thick wire or simply press it down with a heavy stone.
It is not difficult to spread the vine, but it must be done carefully so as not to break
Where there will be a new bush, the vine is carefully bent, taken out and tied to a stake. All eyes located from the mother bush up to the place of this bend are removed. Many specialists at the very beginning of the shoot, near the mother bush, pull it tightly with wire, so that in the next year it will be easier to separate the new plant. The ditch is gradually covered with soil and watered well. As a rule, good roots grow in a year in a buried place, and the next spring a new plant is separated from the mother.
In summer, in June or July, you can dig in powerfully grown green shoots of this year. They do this in a similar way, bringing to the surface the top of the shoot with two or three leaves. If the shoot is very long, it can be dug in with a “sinusoid”, bringing it to the surface several times. All parts remaining underground must be attached to the bottom of the ditch with studs.
If the soil is not allowed to dry out in summer, even several new bushes can be obtained in this way for well-rooted varieties by next spring.
Chinese called layering, performed by the complete laying of a lignified shoot into the ground. This is done in the case of the most poorly rooted varieties. For laying in early spring, a long shoot is chosen, located at the very base of the bush. They dig it all the way into a ditch no more than 20 cm deep. Also into fertilized soil, also pinning it to the bottom of the ditch. But the ditch is not completely filled up: the soil layer above the vine is first made no more than 5 cm. And only as new shoots appear from the buds and their growth, soil is gradually added to the ditch. Keep the pit moist at all times.
Usually new shoots grow from each buried bud; in autumn, they carefully dig up the vine and cut it into several new plants. However, for this to happen, you have to sacrifice part of the crop, reduce the load on the mother bush. It is necessary to break out in the summer not only extra bunches, but also all stepchildren and part of the young shoots.
Like most fruit trees, grapes can be grafted. Grafting is no more difficult than, for example, in the case of an apple tree, but not all varieties are compatible, and success in each case is not guaranteed. Therefore, it is advisable to study the literature before the operation, to look for which adult bushes one or another variety can be grafted onto. If you have not found such information, it remains only to experiment.
Grafting grapes is as common as grafting fruit trees.
In the case of grapes, all known methods of grafting are used (split, copulation, budding, etc.), but the number of options is even greater. They are grafted with both last year's cuttings and cut from the current year's shoots. As in the shtamb or last year's escape, and in the current year's escape. Therefore, the appropriate terminology is used: “black to black”, “black to green”, etc. There is even a desktop, winter vaccination.
So, for example, black-to-black grafting is performed in the spring, when active vegetation has not yet begun. The grafts are cuttings cut in autumn and stored in the cold. For such an inoculation, the buds on the cuttings should be slightly swollen. It is performed by copulation methods. Cuttings are selected that are suitable in thickness to the rootstock shoot, soaked, oblique cuts are made on the cutting and stock, the grafting site is connected and firmly tied. When new shoots on cuttings grow up to 25–30 cm, they are pinched.
In the case of “black to green” grafting, last year's cuttings with awakening buds are grafted onto young powerful green shoots of the current year. Such grafting is usually performed using the "split" method. It is possible during the entire growing season, as long as it is possible to keep lignified cuttings harvested in the fall in the cellar.
It is also possible to graft into the trunk of an old bush when they dig up in early spring upper layer soil; the cuttings are grafted underground, usually by the "split" technique. They do it at a depth of about 15 cm. The stalk is completely buried in the ground.
Budding, that is, grafting with a kidney, is carried out on a green vine in June or July. As on fruit trees, it is possible to implant the kidney into the shoot behind the bark by making various incisions: T-shaped, longitudinal, into a slot, etc. The grafting site is wrapped very well with a film, and after a month the kidney takes root well.
A detailed description of how to graft grapes is beyond the scope of this article, but it is quite accessible. After reading and practicing a little, any gardener who has minimal skills in caring for trees and shrubs can plant grapes.
Grapes are a liana, but, in fact, they are very similar to many fruit bushes, and its breeding methods are generally the same as, for example, currants. The goal - obtaining a new seedling - can be achieved known ways: germination of cuttings, layering, grafting. Performing all these operations is more or less accessible even to a beginner, and if at first it’s scary, you just need to try.
Reproduction of the vine is a complex process akin to nurturing a child who needs motherly love and competent care. The caring hands of the winegrower give life to one of the most ancient companions of man in conditions that half a century ago seemed completely unsuitable for vineyards. Today even the gardeners of Siberia know how to grow grapes.
Grape cuttings include several main stages: harvesting, storage, prevention, preparation, germination and rooting.
Cultivated varieties of grapes are most often propagated vegetatively - by layering and cuttings. The seed method is applicable only when breeding new varieties.
But layering can also be obtained only if grapes are already growing on the site. They are formed from the branches of a living bush bent and pinned to the ground. How to grow grapes that you want to bring from afar?
The method by which grapes can be grown from cuttings uses the ability of a shoot cut from the mother vine to take root and grow.
At the same time, the qualities inherent in this grape variety are fully preserved in the new plant.
The scheme of reproduction of grapes.
Annual branches, which are cut in autumn, are ideal raw materials for harvesting winter cuttings. Grape cuttings include several main stages:
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In winter, you need to inspect the planting material several times and turn the lying bunch to the other side.
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Scheme of germination of grapes.
In early February, the cuttings are taken out and prepared for planting. Preventive treatment is carried out by soaking them in a solution of dark pink potassium permanganate (1-1.5 g per bucket of water) for 12 hours. After that, the cuttings are washed and soaked in clean water for 1-3 days. Then they need to be inspected and checked for safety:
On selected cuttings of good preservation, a fresh cut is made with a knife. Quality chibouks have a light green color of wood with a light core without dark spots and specks. brown and dark tones indicate an insufficiently mature vine, and such cuttings are discarded.
Scheme of preparing a pit for planting a bush of grapes.
Under the lower kidney, a straight cut is made under the knot. The lower kidney is removed by cutting it off with a sharp knife. The end of the knife makes several cuts in the bark along the shoot. The length of the cuts is about 2 cm. The depth is up to the wood.
When the cutting gets into a moist substrate, it will develop at the places of cuts and cuts. connective tissue plants - callus. From it, roots begin to grow in the future. But first you need to process upper part chubuk.
An oblique cut is made above the upper bud: two centimeters must be retreated from the bud and the excess cut off so that the cut plane is on the other side of the stem from the bud.
You can cover the upper cut of the cutting with paraffin - for less moisture loss during rooting. In this case, it is permissible to make a straight cut at a distance of 2 cm from the kidney. The part of the cutting that protrudes above the upper eye is dipped in molten paraffin. It is important not to flood the kidney itself.
At the next stage, the planting material is treated with a growth stimulator solution: epin, heteroauxin are prepared according to the instructions for the preparation. Among folk remedies- aloe juice, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2, respectively, or a solution of honey (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). The lower part of the cutting with the applied furrows is placed in the stimulator solution for 24 hours.
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Scheme of growing grape seedlings.
Chubuki can be germinated in a homemade kilchevator - a vessel with a substrate. Used for the substrate coniferous sawdust(pine, spruce, etc.), scalded with boiling water. An accessible vessel is a plastic bottle with a volume of 2-2.5 liters. Its upper part is cut off, and several holes are burned in the bottom with a soldering iron for drainage and watering the cuttings during germination.
3-5 cm of sawdust are poured at the bottom, they are watered for prevention with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. The cuttings are installed vertically, without immersing them in the substrate. Then more sawdust is poured into the kilchevator to the level of the upper eyes. In a bottle of the specified volume, 5-7 cuttings can be placed.
Another way to grow grapes does not require fiddling with bottles and substrate. For germination, each chubuk is tightly wrapped with a very damp cloth (do not wring it out), then a bundle of wrapped cuttings is wrapped with several more layers of the same cloth. On top of the fabric, the bundle is wrapped in polyethylene or placed in a bag, tying its upper, open part more tightly to reduce moisture evaporation. Outside, part of the shoot with 2-3 eyes should remain.
At the bottom of a cut bottle or other vessel, pour 2 cm of leafy soil. Place a bottle or a glass without a bottom on this layer, fill the gap between the walls of the vessels with earth, compact it and pour water over it. Place washed and scalded medium-sized river sand inside the glass, moisten it and remove the inner vessel.
In the center of the sand layer, make a hole about 5 cm deep and place the cutting there. Pour sand around the cutting to seal. Then pour a small layer of dry sand over the entire surface of the vessel from above. Cover the stem with a glass or the top of a bottle.
The cuttings prepared in one of the ways are placed on a heating battery. It creates high temperature for the lower part of the planting material in the substrate (about 25°C) and lower for the buds above its surface - 19-20°C. Be sure to control the humidity of the substrate, sand or fabric, watering them with settled water with a temperature not lower than the temperature of the substrate. Comfortable to hold plastic bottle with water for irrigation on the same battery.
After 20 days, you need to check if the roots have appeared. By this time, the eyes usually wake up in the upper part and green leaves appear. The cuttings must be very carefully removed from the substrate, the rooted ones should be selected, and the stunted ones should be placed back in the vessels, replacing the substrate with a new one. If for a long time the roots do not appear, and the leaves look healthy and alive - do not give up. Some grape varieties (Amur hybrids) take root quite hard, you just need to take care of the cuttings with all possible love and attention. A persistent vinedresser will be rewarded for his labors.
The selected cuttings that have taken root are planted in pots with soil from a mixture of good fertile soil and river sand. At the bottom of the pots, 4-5 cm of drainage from pebbles, coarse river sand must be placed.
When the threat of return frosts has passed, young plants are transplanted into a larger container - this can be an old bucket or similar vessel. In them, seedlings are grown before planting in the ground in a quiet place, protected from the north wind. The earth in the bucket warms up faster, which will provide good growth root system of grapes. Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out in late June-early July. By this time, the plant should have a well-developed shoot and root system.
