Weigela is a deciduous perennial shrub belonging to the honeysuckle family. The name of this plant was given in honor of the German botanist Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel.
In nature, Weigela can be seen in Southeast Asia, on the island of Java and on Far East.
In Europe, this shrub began to be cultivated in the mid-19th century. Today there are 15 species and about 150 hybrid varieties of Weigela.
The pleasant aroma, dense flowering and variety of shades have made this plant popular among gardeners. At decent care the bushes may bloom again. But even without flowers, the shrub does not lose its decorative effect; its foliage is beautiful in itself. Particularly good are those varieties whose leaves are two-colored.
The shoots are erect, can reach a height of 1.5 m. The leaves are oval, with teeth along the edges and with sharp ends, located opposite on the stem, uniformly green in color or with a cream border.
Flowers about 5 cm long, shaped like a bell or a funnel, are located on the shoots singly or in inflorescences. The color of the flowers is varied - from cream to dark burgundy, it depends on the variety. Towards the end of flowering, the color of the flowers gradually darkens.
Flowering begins in the last days of May and lasts 3-4 weeks. Usually the flowers cling to the branches so thickly that the foliage behind them is not visible. This is clearly visible in the photo. Weigela may bloom again in the first half of September, but not so thickly.
After flowering ends, in place of the flowers, bivalve boxes are formed, tightly packed with small seeds.
In the temperate climate of central Russia, the Urals and Siberia, the following varieties are recommended for cultivation:
Weigela is in demand among landscape designers, as it is a universal shrub. The ability to re-bloom and change shade during flowering gives this plant added value.
Blooming Weigela looks especially beautiful next to spirea and cotoneaster, with viburnum and barberry, with Japanese quince and with any coniferous plants.
Weigela is often used in single plantings to decorate flower beds and lawns. Weigela varieties of different colors look colorful in one area. tall bushes good as a living fence. Sometimes Weigela is planted to cover bare tree trunks and unsightly buildings.
Medium-sized and short varieties are suitable for mixborders; small bushes are usually used in alpine hills and rockeries.
We must try to find a sunny place for Weigela; unobstructed access to light guarantees lush flowering. But if the plant is grown in tropical and subtropical climates, then it is advisable to create diffused lighting.
The site must be protected from strong winds and drafts. Low-lying places are undesirable for this shrub; cold air masses often stagnate there, excessive dampness accumulates, and the plant can freeze and die.
Groundwater located close to the soil surface contributes to root rotting. If it is impossible to find another place, you need to arrange good drainage.
Weigela requires fertile soil, permeable to water and air, with slight or neutral acidity. Sandy and loamy soils are quite suitable.
Before planting, the roots of the seedlings can be soaked in a solution of a growth stimulator. Clear the soil in the selected area of weeds and fertilize if necessary.
Choose healthy three-year-old seedlings. Planting is carried out in March - April, after the cessation of night frosts. Autumn planting is not recommended due to poor survival rate.
For better rooting, you must adhere to the following planting rules:
Weigela is unpretentious, but in order for it to show all the beauty of its flowering, it must be looked after, following simple agrotechnical rules.
Young plants need more frequent watering than older plants. At the beginning of flowering, you need to water more often; when the bush fades, watering should be reduced.
In dry weather, you need to water more abundantly, 10 liters of water per bush. We need to take water room temperature, pre-settled. Watering should be done in the morning or evening.
The bush must be fertilized three times per season:
For rapid growth and denser flowering, the bush should be pruned 2 times a year. In early spring, in the first days of April, shoots that are broken and frozen in winter are removed.
In autumn, dry inflorescences and excess root shoots are cut off.
After watering, you need to lightly loosen the soil to a depth of no more than 8 cm; Weigela’s roots lie shallow, and you need to try not to damage them.
It is necessary to remove weeds in time, and after watering, mulch with peat chips or sawdust. Then the moisture will remain longer, and you can water the bushes less often.
Weigela can propagate by seeds, cuttings and layering. The seed method is too complicated and time-consuming. Usually they resort to cuttings and rooting by layering.
Seedlings obtained from semi-lignified cuttings take root well. They are harvested during flowering and rooted in a cold greenhouse in the usual way. After a year and a half, the seedling will be ready to move to an open area.
To propagate by layering in the spring, you need to find a branch that is close to the ground, make a cut in the wood, sprinkle it with activated carbon powder, and secure it with staples so that the cut point is in the ground.
In the spring of next year, when roots appear, the new plant must be carefully separated from the main one and transplanted into a prepared place.
Weigela is susceptible to fungal infections such as rust, gray mold and various spots. To prevent these ailments, it is necessary to spray the bushes with a 3% Topsin solution during bud break. If the disease has already begun, treatment with Bordeaux mixture will help.
From harmful insects Weigela can be attacked by caterpillars, aphids, spider mite, thrips. If the use of insecticides is undesirable, you can control pests with garlic, pepper or wormwood infusion.
Sometimes mole crickets and cockchafers spoil root system, and the bush withers. In this case, it is necessary to water the root circle with a solution of karbofos or Aktara.
After the end of leaf fall, in October - November, you can begin preparing for winter. You should sprinkle loose soil around the plant in a layer of 15-20 cm, tie the branches, bend them to the ground and cover them with special material. Carefully fasten the shelter on top so that the wind cannot destroy it.
You don’t have to tilt the branches, but simply build a frame of metal wire or mesh around them, pour fallen leaves inside for insulation, wrap the structure with covering material, and secure it firmly. In the spring, with the onset of stable warmth, dismantle the shelter.
Weigela is a shrub from the honeysuckle family, native to Southeast Asia. It is named after the German botanist von Weigel and is used in landscape design since the end of the century before last.
Weigela is a shrub from the honeysuckle family, native to Southeast Asia.
Weigela bush height in middle lane reaches one and a half meters. It mainly depends on the type of plant. There are a total of one and a half dozen varieties of weigela., which are also divided into varieties. Not all types of shrubs have taken root well in the middle zone. The following varieties are considered the most frost-resistant.
The tall shrub blooms in May-June with large cream flowers with orange specks. At the beginning of autumn, re-blooming occurs, although not as lush as spring. In nature, it grows in cedar and mixed forests in Primorye, Sakhalin, China and Japan, alone or forming dense thickets. Loves sunny places near bodies of water. The leaves are oblong, ovoid in shape. Small winged seeds are placed in an elongated box.
This is a shrub one and a half meters high with eight-centimeter long, fleecy leaves with short petioles. The flowers are bell-shaped, pale yellow, up to four centimeters in size, arranged in pairs on short branches. Flowering occurs in late spring and early summer. It is meager, few fruits appear. They ripen in mid-autumn; the seeds with wings are in boxes. In autumn, the color of the leaves changes to yellow-red. Weigela does not shed its leaves in winter.
Weigel Middendorf
It comes from the mountainous regions of Japan and grows to a height of three meters. The leaves are oblong, large, pubescent below and on the petioles. The three-centimeter flowers are at first dark red, then lighten, they are also pubescent. The bush grows quickly, needs moisture and fertile soil. Thanks to the height of the curved and beautifully flowering branches, it looks impressive next to trees and on the borders of paths.
Low bushes with bright green leaves live in cedar forests, in the highlands of Primorye, on Sakhalin. In mid-September the colors change, and in October they fall off. Thanks to the graceful colors of the funnel-shaped flowers - purple on the outside and soft pink on the inside - this species is considered the most attractive among all. The first flowering occurs in May-June, and the second at the end of summer. Looks great on lawns and in combination with coniferous and deciduous shrubs.
Weigela profusely blooming
It grows in China, in the north of Korea, in the south of the Ussuri forests. Light-loving, spreading shrub with dense foliage and with gray or reddish bark it grows to a height of two meters. The seven-centimeter bright green leaves turn brown-yellow or ocher in autumn. The bright pink flowers bloom profusely and have an original shape. The plant easily survives transplantation, not demanding on soil composition, looks impressive in hedges, does not require trimming. But in cold winters it needs to be covered.
A low shrub native to Japanese forests. The leaves are large and sit on short stalks. The flowers are tricolor, numerous, tubular-bell-shaped. The first wave of flowering occurs at the end of May, and the second in July. The color of the leaves changes in October, but the plant does not always have time to shed them before the cold weather. The frost and drought resistance of the plant is more pronounced in mature specimens. Loves bright sun, grows alone or in small groups. There are varieties with white flowers.
Weigela early
The plant is native to Primorye, Japan and northern China. This is a three-meter shrub with red-brown or gray shoots. It can grow in the sun and in the shade, but in the latter case the leaves lose their decorative color. In the Moscow region, one cannot do without shelter for the winter. Easily restored when frozen and even blooms in the first season, albeit late. Needs moist, fertile soils with a slightly acidic reaction. Garden forms with brown-red leaves and dark pink, yellow in the middle flowers have been developed. There are also varieties with small white flowers that later turn pink. White specks are clearly visible on their leaves.
Weigela, although not very easy to care for perennial, but often in the conditions of the Moscow region it can often spend the winter even without shelter. Preparing ornamental shrubs for winter comes down to simple activities.
Weigela does not tolerate stagnant moisture, does not grow in flooded areas without drainage. As a rule, in rainy autumn conditions the plant does not need watering. Only when the soil is excessively dry should the shrub be watered with settled water. warm water. Watering is stopped in the second half of September.
In the fall, the third feeding of weigela is carried out. Simultaneously with digging, potassium fertilizers are applied (Kemira-autumn), and it is also practiced to enrich the soil with ash in the amount of 200 grams per square meter of land. Alternative option autumn feeding area under weigela is as follows: up to 4 kg of humus or compost, 50 grams of superphosphate and 30 grams of potassium sulfate per square meter of area.
Shrub trimming is usually done in the spring. Formative pruning of adult bushes should be carried out in summer. before the start of the second flowering of weigela. It takes place on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, they must have time to grow before flowering begins.
Bushes from three to four years of age need rejuvenation. It is done after the second flowering. Adult branches are removed, and young branches are cut by a third. Sometimes every few years all shoots are cut off. The pruning areas are treated with garden varnish. After this procedure, the shrub tolerates wintering better and recovers in the spring.
Weigela pruning is usually done in the spring.
After transplanting to a new location, the young shrub needs shelter for the winter. A full-fledged shelter can be an option in which several sticks are dug around the circumference of the bush and tied together. This design is the base, which is wrapped with a dense non-woven covering material. All this is compacted with spruce branches and dry leaves, then strengthened with film.
It is especially important to provide the bush with such protection before a snowless winter. Otherwise it may break. After this, new branches will appear in the spring, but you won’t have to wait for flowering this year. Plant without shelter cold winter may die. It is imperative to remove snow from the surface of shelters during thaws and in spring.
With age, the frost resistance of bushes increases. A 3-5 year old bush growing in one place without transplanting needs less care than a young one. Even when frozen, covered plants recover faster. This applies even to non-frost-resistant varieties of weigela. And bushes that are more resistant to cold may suffer during wintering with heavy snowfalls without shelter due to the fragility of the shoots.
After transplanting to a new location, the young shrub needs shelter for the winter.
Creating a spectacular garden is not an easy task. Especially if you are an amateur or a beginner. But, one of the revered plants among experienced gardeners, due to its characteristics, is weigela.
Weigela is included in the genus of shrubs of the Honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae). It is a moisture-loving and conditionally shade-tolerant, deciduous, erect shrub. It has such advantages as: elegance, ease of reproduction and care.
The plant received its name in honor of the German chemist, botanist and pharmacist Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel. In the wild, weigela is found in the Russian Far East, in East Asia. The genus includes 15 species. Typically, 7 species and about 10 varieties are cultivated, which are distinguished by their high decorative properties.
A characteristic quality of weigela is flowering. Namely, it can bloom twice in one growing season. The flowers bloom for the first time in late spring and early summer. Flowering is abundant, the flowers are funnel-shaped, bell-shaped, solitary or one to six on last year's shoots, in the axils of the upper leaves. The next one is in late summer-early autumn on this year’s shoots, less lush.
Flowers can range from milky, pink to amaranth and carmine red. It happens that during the flowering process, a flower changes shade from light to dark, intense. Flowering lasts 3-4 weeks. The fruits are capsules with small, often winged seeds.
Prefers rich, crumbly, loamy soil (pH 6.5-7.5). In slightly acidic, peaty soils, Middendorff's weigela (W. Middendorffiana), as well as “wild” species, will feel good. Although the shrub can grow in places not illuminated by the sun, this does not mean that it is shade-loving. For full growth and flowering, weigela will need bright, diffused light. In the middle zone, it is not a sin to plant in a sunny place, on the south side. The place should be protected from the wind, especially from the north - in a draft, flowers and buds will simply fly around.
When purchasing, give preference to seedlings that are at least 3 years old. This is a young, but not too bushy bush; it adapts well to a new place.
It is advisable that they are grown in your climatic region or zone.
The best planting time is spring, March-April. The interval between the beginning of soil warming and swelling of the buds. Planting in autumn is highly undesirable.
Select your location carefully according to the above guidelines. The hole is dug based on the size of the plant itself. On average, a diameter of 50-60, a depth of 40-50 centimeters. If you plant several bushes, maintain a gap of 2-3 meters between them.
Compact varieties can be placed 1-1.5 meters from each other. In case of planting in unsuitable soils, a hole is dug with a diameter of more than 1 meter, and the original soil is replaced with suitable soil. The bottom of the pit is loosened. Drainage is installed whenever possible. If the soil is not water-absorbing enough, this can be corrected by adding high-moor peat.
When placing the bush in the hole, carefully straighten the roots and fill the hole with prepared soil. It is best to perform the operation in pairs. Make sure there are no air pockets between the roots. It is useful to soak the rhizome in a root formation stimulator before planting and treat the plant with growth regulators. This is done to reduce stress levels and speed up the rooting process.
After filling the soil, the bush is watered. If it sag, add more earth on top. Deepening the root collar by 1-2 centimeters is not critical. The tree trunk circle is mulched with peat, wood chips or sawdust.
Maintenance is simple and consists of timely pruning, fertilizing and watering.
Like all shrubs, weigela should be trimmed. This is done for sanitary and decorative purposes. In early spring, frozen, deformed or broken shoots are cut off from young bushes. Mature bushes form in the summer, after the first flowering.
If young shoots appear, then pruning is not performed, since secondary flowering occurs on them. Also, once every 3-5 years mature plant needs rejuvenating pruning. All branches older than three years are cut off, the rest are cut to 1/3 of their length.
Weigela should be fed three times per season. complex fertilizers. The first time before the beginning of the growing season, the second time during the formation of buds, the third time - during the autumn digging. If compost was added to the roots during planting, the plant does not need to be fed for two years.
Do not allow the plant to dry out. In nature, it grows in humid conditions and needs regular watering. If the area around the plant is mulched, watering is done less frequently.
For the winter, it is advisable to protect the bushes from frost.
Weigela propagates by seed and cuttings. They will not cause any difficulties.
Cuttings can be harvested twice per season. The first time in March, before the buds swell, the second time at the beginning of summer. The entire process can take up to 3 years, so be patient.
1. Select a vegetative, lignified shoot. They are cut into 10-centimeter cuttings, which are buried in a bowl with damp sand and peat in equal proportions. After sprouts appear on the cuttings, they can be planted in a loose substrate of garden soil, peat and sand (2:1:1) in containers or boxes.
The shoots are pinched when they reach a height of 5 centimeters. The following spring, the plants are pruned and transplanted into suitable pots. The care is the same, without pinching. By autumn, the bush reaches a height of 50-70 centimeters and is ready for planting in open ground next year. Use root stimulants.
2. During the summer collection of cuttings, young, non-lignified shoots are selected. They are also cut by themselves, leaving two leaves on each cutting. Otherwise, the technology is identical.
It is better to propagate varietal weigels by cuttings in order to preserve the characteristics of the mother plant. They usually bloom after 3-4 years.
The seed propagation method is also not particularly difficult. The easiest way is to collect the seeds and scatter them around the plant itself.
In the spring, after germination, select the strongest seedlings and grow them for 2 years. After which the plant is transplanted to its own permanent place. It will bloom in 5-6 years.
It is often affected by aphids, caterpillars, thrips and spider mites, beetle larvae or mole crickets.
To remove insects, use complex insecticides on the leaves and at the roots. In case of disease, treatment is carried out with fungicides, milk of lime or Bordeaux mixture.
The plant cannot be called delicate, but care should be taken.
Weigela will fit perfectly into a composition with barberry, Japanese quince, or spirea, rosebud, felt cherry and a ringer. In addition, the group of Weigels themselves looks impressive different varieties In one place.
So, you definitely won’t regret the effort spent purchasing, planting and caring for this wonderful shrub. And you will enjoy its impressive flowering. You just need to show a little patience.
Well designed garden plot It’s hard to imagine without ornamental shrubs. Among them, weigela planting and care is a real find. open ground, behind which are very simple. This unpretentious beauty has a lot of advantages among her relatives. It can give any garden a bright and lush flowering Twice a year. Fairly easy propagation will allow you to easily create several new specimens. Among the advantages is high winter hardiness. All these positive traits and shrub agricultural technology will be discussed in detail in this article.
Weigela is the closest relative of honeysuckle, because they belong to the same genus. She received her name in honor of the German botanist Christian von Weigel. IN wildlife grows in southeast Asia and the Far East.
The plant is a deciduous shrub with erect shoots. Its dense crown reaches a height of 1.5-3 meters. The leaves have wide range colors, occur garden varieties with speckled, bordered and even red plates. The leaves are arranged in opposite order on petioles of varying lengths. The edge of the plate is serrated or jagged. The root system is fibrous with big amount thin long roots. Does not form root suckers.
The buds of the plant are very interesting and beautiful. They are located in the axils of the upper leaves singly, or collected in loose racemose inflorescences of 5-6 pieces. The flowers have a short pedicel. Petals are colored warm shades– pink, yellow, cream, red. The corollas are bell-shaped or funnel-shaped with five petals. 5 stamens and a long pistil peek out from the long throat. The stigma looks like a small cap or ball, which gives the flowers an originality. The decorative period is 3-4 weeks twice per season. The first time flowering occurs in May-June, the second time in August-September.
This is interesting! As it blooms, the corolla changes color, making the shades deeper and more saturated.
The fruit of the plant is a bivalve capsule filled with small angular seeds. They remain viable for 1-2 years. Since the bush does not form root layers, it can be propagated using cuttings or seeds.
Thanks to research expeditions to late XIX century, a beautiful Asian woman came to Europe. Gardeners fell in love with it and became the subject of careful study and hybridization. Among the 15 species of the genus, only 8 are used in ornamental gardening:
In addition, there is a collection of different cultivars called hybrid weigela. Let us consider in more detail the characteristics of the listed species and the most popular varieties.
Weigela middendorffiana (Middendorf) . The height of the bush is 1-1.5 meters. The shoots are straight. The bright green leaf blades have a small edge on the veins on both sides of the leaf. The buds are located singly or collected in a loose inflorescence of 2-6 pieces, in the axils of the apical leaves of the shoot. The corolla is colored yellow. The flower's throat is orange; the petals have small orange spots. It blooms twice per season, the duration of the decorative period is 25-30 days.
Know! Weigela middendorffiana is one of the most beloved species by gardeners. The combination of unpretentiousness, high decorativeness and frost resistance has made this shrub popular in landscape design and landscaping.
Weigela maximowiczii (Maksimovich) . The height of this deciduous shrub is 1.2-1.5 m. It is densely crowned with pubescent oblong leaves 4-8 cm long. The tip of the plate is pointed. The corolla is funnel-bell-shaped, painted in a pale yellow hue. The length of the flower is about 3.5 cm. It is located singly or in pairs on short pedicels. Blooms from mid-May to mid-June. Winged seeds gradually ripen in the boxes. They can be collected in mid-October.
Weigela suavis (pleasant) . Wild species are common in the Primorsky region and on the islands. A very rare visitor to flower beds. The bush rises above the ground to a height of 1-1.3 meters. The lower part of the bright green foliage is pubescent along the central vein. The oblong-lanceolate plates have a serrated edge; by autumn they change their color to red-brown. The funnel-shaped corollas on the outside are much more richly colored than on the inside. The flowers are pink, 2.5-3 cm in diameter. They delight the eye twice a year in spring and autumn. In the conditions of central Russia, tiny seeds do not have time to ripen.
Weigela hortensis (garden) . The height of this beautiful representative of the genus barely reaches 1 meter. Asian sissy is common in Japan; when grown in central Russia, it will require careful shelter for the winter. The leaf blades are almost sessile, obovate, 8-10 cm long.
The flowers are collected in inflorescences of 3 pieces. It blooms very profusely at the end of May. The corollas are tubular-bell-shaped, pink-red, the petals are pointed. The seeds are equipped with wings.
On a note! It is recommended to carefully prepare young Weigela hortensis bushes for wintering. More mature individuals rarely freeze out.
Weigela coraeensis (Korean) . One of the largest representatives of the genus. The giant reaches a height of 5 m, but in gardening it decorative forms much more compact - 1.5 m. The leaves are large, oval with a pointed end and a serrated edge. Top part plates glossy, lower ones pubescent. The blossoming buds are soft pink, becoming bright carmine as they bloom. Their diameter is 3-3.5 cm. The duration of the decorative period depends on weather conditions, on average 20 days. Blooms in May-June. The seeds do not have time to ripen. In autumn the crown changes its color to reddish. A little later, the foliage turns brown and remains to spend the winter on the bush. Frost resistance is weak, so it is recommended for cultivation in the southern regions. Watch the video: weigela and its types.
Weigela japonica (Japanese) . The height of the bush is about 1 meter. The foliage cover is elliptical with a pointed apex, slightly pubescent, serrated edges. The corollas are bell-shaped, 2-3 cm in diameter, carmine-red. The buds are slightly pubescent, collected in inflorescences of 3 pieces. It rarely blooms in harsh climates, so it is cultivated exclusively in the south. Even in the central zone it is difficult to winter under cover.
Weigela praecox (early) . Grows in the forests of China, the Far East, and North Korea. The spherical crown rises 1.5-2 meters above the ground. The leaves are elliptical, pointed, pubescent on both sides, up to 7 cm in length. The autumn outfit has been ablaze with ocher since the beginning of September. Bright pink drooping buds are collected in a sparse cluster of 2-3 pieces. The pharynx is white or yellowish. It blooms for a month from the end of May. Frost resistance is average.
Advice! Weigela praecox is ideal for creating a flowering hedge. Such a planting will protect from dust and will become the calling card of any site.
Weigela florida (blooming) . Distributed in the Primorsky Territory, Japan, and China. It is a shrub 2.5-3 m tall. The crown is dense with a diameter of 3.5 m. The plates are almost sessile, rich green in color, pubescent on the underside. The flowers are collected in a rare inflorescence of 3-4 pieces. They appear at the end of May and delight gardeners for 20 days. The corollas are dark pink with a white or lighter throat.
Know! European breeders have bred several garden forms
White-flowered Alba with speckled foliage. Among flower growers, the most widespread
, combining a mass of garden cultivars with variable coloring of the crown and corollas. The works of European breeders made it more resilient to unfavorable conditions. 
The most popular varieties are:
Important! Variegated varieties will require more careful preparation for wintering.
To admire the luxury of an Asian guest, you should pay attention Special attention landing. You can read further on how to plant a plant according to all the rules.
The heat-loving beauty takes root best in early spring. As soon as the snow melts and the soil warms up, but the young shoots have not yet hatched, you can begin work. Planting sissy in the fall is not the best option, because young shoots are threatened with death even in a not too severe winter, and more mature specimens have difficulty taking root in a new place.
It is optimal to buy a seedling that is more than 3 years old. When choosing it in a nursery, remember that the root system closed type guarantees better survival rate. It is important to purchase material whose height exceeds 30 cm, and the number of shoots is at least 4-5. Make sure that the roots are not overdried, the shoots remain flexible, without signs of damage or pest activity. There should be no stains on the leaf blades; the color corresponds to the variety.
Important! You can purchase a seedling with an open root system only if planting is planned in the near future.
A correctly selected location will contribute to better rooting of the bush and extend the decorative period. The Asian prefers to grow in areas protected from drafts. The south side of the garden behind the building is suitable. On the sides there is a small frame of other bushes. Together they will create a unique ensemble and protect the sissy from scorching sun rays at noon hour. The rest of the day the sun will heat and add decorativeness to the southern guest. In partial shade, the flowers are crushed and will not be as bright.
As for the characteristics of the substrate, the Asian woman will prefer loose, humus-rich soils. The soil environment is neutral or slightly alkaline. An excellent option would be sandy loam or loam, previously flavored with organic matter. A mixture of humus, sand, and turf soil in a ratio of 2:2:1 is also suitable.
On a note! Among its relatives, Weigela Middendorf is the most unpretentious. It is not so demanding of lighting and soil that it can grow in partial shade and on soil enriched with peat (its environment is slightly acidic).
To plant an Asian guest, you will need a hole 30-40 cm deep. If you want to immediately feed it with organic matter, dig a hole a little deeper. This may be necessary in case of a depleted substrate and will help the bushes take root faster.
The planting technology is not complicated, follow the algorithm described below:
Advice! If you want to get a dense hedge, reduce the distance between bushes to 50-60 cm.
This beautiful representative of the honeysuckle family stands out among other ornamental shrubs for its unpretentiousness. In addition to an established irrigation regime and timely application of fertilizing, it will require keeping the top layer of soil loose. Mulching the soil will help prevent the top layer from drying out quickly and will curb the proliferation of weeds.
If during planting you enriched the substrate by adding nutrients to the hole, the southern plant will not need feeding for another 2 years. Subsequently, fertilizers are applied three times throughout the season.
First portion nutrients applied in early spring. Any fertilizer based on phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen is welcome. Both Kemira Lux and diammophos are suitable. The second time, fertilizing must be done during the budding period. At this stage, you will need a mixture of phosphorus and potassium (potassium sulfate and double superphosphate). In the fall, wood ash, applied at 200 grams per square meter, will be an ideal fertilizer. The last portion of fertilizer should be applied at the end of August or beginning of September. Later application of fertilizing will provoke the growth of shoots, which will not allow them to fully prepare for wintering.
Remember! When applying granular fertilizers, the plant will need plenty of watering.
The moisture-loving Asian plant does not tolerate stagnation of water in the roots. It should be watered abundantly, especially during the period of spring drought and summer heat. The frequency of watering is determined by the drying out of the soil; it should not be allowed. Hold life-giving moisture Mulch will help, and loosening after each watering will prevent it from stagnating in the hole.
To maintain its image, the ornamental shrub will require formative pruning. The best time for this procedure is after the first wave of flowering. The second wave occurs on the shoots of the current year, so you should not be zealous with their removal. To simulate tillering, it is enough to shorten the shoots by a third.
The second type of pruning is anti-aging. Mature individuals will need it once every 3-4 years. Young growth can be content with sanitation, i.e., removal of frozen and damaged shoots in early spring after the snow melts. During the same period, rejuvenation is carried out. All branches older than 3 years are removed, and the rest are cut back by a third. If the winter was difficult and the shoots were severely damaged by frost, they should be completely cut out. Don’t worry, the plant will recover quickly enough after such a drastic haircut.
Important! Sometimes mutations occur in decorative deciduous species - the new shoot differs in color from its relatives. To prevent the entire bush from undergoing degeneration, remove the branch that falls out of the overall picture.
Careful preparation for wintering will help the southerner easily endure the dormant period. After the end of leaf fall at the end of the season, the tree trunk circles are hilled high. Further actions may involve bending down the branches and covering them with spunbond or constructing a protective structure. For these purposes, the branches are tightly tied with twine and enveloped plastic mesh. Dry leaves are poured inside the frame, and outside additionally insulated with covering material.
The Asian guest reproduces by seeds, cuttings and layering. Varietal characteristics are rarely preserved during seed propagation; the first flowering will occur after 4 years. At vegetative propagation the period will be reduced by 2 years.
Seed propagation from fresh material will not be particularly difficult. If the seeds have been left for three years, their germination rate will be only 5%. No preliminary preparation of the seeds is required, but it is necessary to treat them. Use any fungicide or strong solution of potassium permanganate.
Sowing time is mid-spring. A mixture of sand and peat is used as a substrate. Distribute the seeds evenly on the surface of the substrate, sprinkle with a thin layer of sifted sand and water. Cover the box with glass and place it on a lighted windowsill. At a temperature of 22-24 ⁰C, friendly shoots will appear quite quickly. When the seedlings unfold the second pair of leaves, they dive into individual pots. Over the course of a year, the baby will grow only 6-7 cm and acquire 3-4 pairs of leaf blades. Young shoots can only be overwintered in a cool room; they cannot survive in severe frost. The seedlings need to be grown for three years and only then planted in the garden.
On a note! Experienced gardeners seedlings are not grown. They use self-seeding, leaving only strong specimens.
Vegetative propagation gives positive results. For this, semi-lignified shoots or green tops 10-15 cm long are used. The former are harvested in early spring during the pruning period, and the latter in mid-summer.
Cut cuttings are removed lower leaves, and the top ones are cut in half. Pre-treatment with heteroauxin is carried out for 12 hours. The harvested material is planted in a mixture of peat and sand, covered with 3-4 cm of sifted sand. Sealing is carried out to a depth of 1 cm. Maintenance involves ventilating the greenhouse and moistening the soil mixture. When new shoots appear, pinching is done to stimulate growth. Cuttings are grown for 2 years.
Getting layering is quite easy. The branch is bent, secured, and sprinkled with earth. It does not require separate care; watering and other procedures are carried out along with the entire bush. Layers can be planted next spring. They are also grown for 2-3 years.
Advice! Before fixing the shoot when propagating by layering, first scratch its surface at the point of contact with the ground. This measure will speed up rooting.
If you follow all the rules of agricultural technology, the Asian beauty will delight you twice a season. Bright inflorescences will last for 3-4 weeks and will become the subject of admiration and envious glances from neighbors.
After the first stage of flowering, carry out formative pruning. Remove excess branches so that the bush does not suffer from lack of light, shorten the remaining shoots by a third to simulate tillering. Apply fertilizer at the end of August and begin preparations for wintering.
If you decide to experiment with seed propagation, collect material from your site. The collection is carried out in early November, by which time the seeds will have time to ripen. To prevent self-seeding, the box is first wrapped in a fabric bag (in early autumn). After the seeds have ripened, cut off the capsule along with the bag and dry the material on newspaper. It should be stored in a dark, dry place for 1-2 years.
Spring planting was discussed in detail in the previous part of the article. For a speedy recovery after a harsh winter, the bush is watered abundantly before budding. Do not forget about annual mulching in late spring, when the soil has not yet completely dried out.
If you purchased a seedling in the fall, simply bury it at an angle in a shady corner of the garden. For the winter, cover the crown with a layer of soil mixed with dry leaves.
Remember! Autumn planting it will be hard for the plant. Better to buy planting material in early spring.
Planting and caring for a luxurious representative of the honeysuckle family in central Russia, including the Moscow region and the Leningrad region, are no different from those described above. The territory of the Urals has more severe winters, so you should choose frost-resistant hybrids adapted for such conditions. They will need careful insulation for the winter. Despite the heat-loving nature of the exotic, it perfectly adapts to difficult conditions under the right approach to agricultural technology.
The most common plant pests are:
Aphids are small insects that feed on plant tissue. They create entire colonies that secrete a sweet liquid - honeydew. It is an excellent medium for the growth of sooty fungus mycelium. It can cause more damage than tiny insects. If a colony of pests is detected, folk remedies are used - spraying with a copper-soap solution, infusion of garlic, wormwood, and dandelion.
On a note! If sooty fungus begins to actively infect the crown, the damaged parts should be removed and treated with a fungicide.
Thrips. Small insects that suck cell sap. As a result of their activity, the leaves are deformed, the plates become covered with streaked spots, which gradually grow and interfere with photosynthesis. Folk remedies- decoction of tobacco, yarrow, capsicum - act only in case of minor damage. In case of late detection, treatment is carried out with systemic insecticides - Karbofos, Fitoferm, Intavir, Karate.
Leaf-eating caterpillars. The name of the pests clearly describes the damage they cause. When caterpillars appear, it is recommended to collect them by hand and drown them in a saline solution. Any systemic insecticide can easily cope with them.
To prevent fungal diseases, which include gray rot, rust and spotting, spring treatment with Bordeaux mixture or Topsin is carried out. If the correct irrigation regime is observed, these diseases rarely affect shrubs.
Weigela is a favorite of gardeners and landscape designers. It is used for solo plantings on the lawn or in a mix with other garden inhabitants. Bushes with pink buds, planted close to each other, look great fruit crops and coniferous trees.
Group plantings are often used, the space between which is filled with hosta, fern, astilbe and bulbous perennials. Perfect solution - hedge. It will not only decorate the perimeter of the site, but also provide protection from dust and exhaust gases.
Low-growing hybrids will fit into mixborders, rockeries, landscapes alpine slide. For group plantings, exotics are combined with juniper, barberry, spirea, and viburnum.
Experienced gardeners will be happy to share their observations and advice on plant farming.
Igor has been growing ornamental shrubs on the site for a long time. He notes that the greatest damage to plantings is caused by the mole cricket. The gardener recommends using a beer trap. To do this, a bottle with a small amount of intoxicating drink is buried at an angle. After 2-3 days, the beer should be replaced.
Ksenia managed to grow a lot of seedlings from seeds. She decided to do it in an unconventional way - to sow them in boxes before winter and bury them on the site. In the spring, the seedlings are thinned out and only strong specimens are left. Although cultivation was not particularly difficult, the buds appeared only in the third year.
Yulia lives in Siberia. She claims that the most frost-resistant species living in the Primorsky Territory are pleasant and early. However, they still need shelter in the form of a hut.
Tatyana notes that in winter, field mice harm tender growth. She tries not to use chemicals to control pests and recommends laying spruce branches around the trunk and sprinkling the soil with hot pepper.
Conclusion
As you can see, weigela is absolutely unpretentious; with proper care and compliance with the rules of planting in open ground, it will surprise even an experienced gardener with its luxury.
Video tips: how to grow weigela correctly
In our article you will learn about weigel - a spectacular shrub from the Honeysuckle family; we will look at the features in detail weigels, principles planting and care in open ground.
This plant has been grown in Europe approximately since the second half of the 19th century. Officially, the homeland of the shrub is Japan and China, but it does well in central Russia.
This plant can rarely be found in gardens and cottages. There are about 15 species of weigela in total, 3 of which grow in Russia, in the southern part of the Far East and in East Asia. This:
But about 130 hybrids have now been bred.
Weigela - beautiful, ornamental shrub , relatively unpretentious. Some species bloom twice a year. Sometimes weigela is called the harbinger of warmth because it blooms in late May - early June. But for some species the timing may differ. The bush blooms for the second time at the end of summer. The first flowering lasts about a month, the second – a little less.
The flowers resemble bells in shape, their length reaches 5 centimeters, they can be collected in inflorescences or arranged singly.
The variety of colors is surprising: from white and cream to dark red and burgundy. Some flowers may change color over time. Flowering begins with light shades and ends in dark rich shade. The seeds ripen in a small box with valves; they are small, slightly angular.
Particularly interesting are those species and varieties that can be grown in the south and central Russia, for example, in the Moscow region or Leningrad region.
This species is common in the North and East of China, as well as in Sakhalin and the Far East. The bush grows approximately 1.5 meters in height. The leaves are oval elongated with a pointed end; the foliage on this bush is shed every year. The flowers are 3-4 centimeters long, bloom 2 times a year, in spring and late summer. Shades range from yellowish to gray, with bright orange dots. The seeds are small, with wings, the capsule is elongated.
Not a very common species, although quite spectacular and unpretentious. This variety grows up to 1.3 meters in height. The leaves are bright and rich green, which change color towards the end of September and are shed in October. Their shape is oval-lanceolate. The funnel-shaped flowers range in color from pink on the inside to lilac on the outside. Flowering occurs 2 times a year: the first from the beginning of May to the end of June; the second in late summer or early September.
The bush reaches a height of 2 meters, blooms in May and continues to bloom for 2-3 weeks. Its pink flowers are collected in inflorescences on drooping peduncles.
This species was the result of crossing abundantly flowering, Korean and flowering. They are most often planted to decorate various landscape compositions.
This is one of the oldest hybrids, bred in Poland. It has long been in great demand and is now in great demand.
Bushes of this species reach 2-3 meters in height and have a compact crown. The green leaves are 6-10 cm long, have sharp tips and cover the entire length of the branches. Shiny tube-shaped flowers, light pink inside and reddish outside. They bloom from June to August.
This is a hybrid species, with showy large pink flowers with white splashes.
The bush reaches up to 1.5 meters in length. The crown is formed by smooth, curved branches. This type of weigela is quite resistant to cold climates and can withstand winter even with little shelter.
This hybrid species is quite common among gardeners. The bushes are large, up to 3 meters high and up to 3.5 meters wide.
It blooms from June to July with large, beautiful flowers that are red with an orange tint inside and bright ruby on the outside.
This species was bred by crossing the abundantly flowering and Korean weigela. Flowering begins in May.
The bush is covered with pink flowers, similar in color to strawberries, up to 3 cm in length. In June, towards the end of flowering, the color of the flowers changes to brown-red.
This culture is unpretentious in care and planting; you just need to pay attention to the biological characteristics in order to choose the right place where the bush will constantly grow.
Bushes are planted in early spring, in March-April or autumn, before the onset of cold weather and frosts. In southern and subtropical regions, weigela can be planted throughout the year, except during frosty periods.
Weigela prefers well-lit areas. It is better to plant in places protected from strong northern winds. The bush can also be planted under trees, but it will bloom more abundantly and beautifully only under good bright light.
Advice! You should not plant bushes in lowlands so that they do not freeze.
The soil in which the bush will be planted must be light, permeable and nutritious, and also retain moisture.
Natural views weigels should be planted in slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5), and bred and hybrid ones - in neutral soil (pH 6.5-7.0).
Bushes that grow up to 3 and more meters, planted at a distance of 2-3 meters, and low-growing ones can be planted at a distance of 1-1.5 meters. Planting holes are made 50 centimeters in length, width and depth.
Important! At the bottom of the planting hole it is necessary to lay at least 15 cm of drainage; this is suitable for broken brick or gravel.
If the properties of the soil are not suitable for planting weigela, it is replaced using a mixture of turf soil and leaf humus. You need to add 100g of nitrophoska and 0.5 buckets of humus to the mixture. Fertilizer must be mixed with soil so as not to burn the roots.
In this case, the width and length of the pit are increased to 1 meter, the depth is left at 0.5 meters, but the bottom must be loosened by a few centimeters. If the soil is not water-absorbing enough, then high-moor peat should be added.
Watch the video! Weigel. Flowering and types
Seedlings that are already 3 years old are planted.
Proper plant care includes:
Advice! If compost and nitrophoska are added under the roots during planting, then weigela does not need to be fertilized for 2 years. In the 3rd year, fertilizing is carried out in early spring to stimulate the growth of new shoots and leaves.
In total, fertilizer is applied three times per season:
Natural place The bush grows in the Eastern regions of Asia, in a monsoon climate with wet soil. Therefore, for comfortable growth of the bush in Russia, you need to carefully ensure that the soil does not dry out. Dry soil prevents the plant from fully growing and flowering. Required condition is regular watering and mulching of the soil around the bush. For this you can use sawdust or peat.
As the soil under the bush becomes compacted, it needs to be loosened. This should be done to a depth of no more than 8 centimeters, because the roots of the bush already lie deeper and should not be disturbed. Their damage will negatively affect the development of weigela.
Bushes are trimmed in early spring and July. In spring, pruning is necessary for bushes that have dry, frozen or deformed shoots. In July, branches that have bloomed and old branches are pruned. In addition, in June, excess root growth is removed.
If in the spring it is discovered that one of the main shoots has frozen out, then it should be cut off, leaving 10 centimeters above the ground. Aboveground buds at the root should give rise to new shoots.
Watch the video! Weigel. Why doesn't it bloom
Bushes that are grown in Russia, except in the south and subtropics, should be covered for the winter. Weigela is wrapped in spunbond trunk circle sprinkled with spruce branches or fallen leaves. The insulation is removed in early April.
Most often, weigela is affected by:
For pest control use:
Weigela roots can affect:
In this case, the seedlings begin to turn yellow and wither after planting. To treat the plant, use a solution of karbofos or actara.
Among the diseases weigela affects:
To combat fungi and infections, the bush is treated with Bordeaux mixture - milk of lime with copper sulfate.
Advice! To prevent diseases, it is recommended to treat weigela during the appearance of leaves with a 3% Topsin solution.
If seedlings are purchased in late autumn and can no longer be planted, they can be stored until spring. There are two ways how this can be done:
Closer to the beginning of spring, the bush will begin to grow and the buds will begin to swell. Then it needs to be moved to a bright place and watering increased. Weigela will gradually grow, if necessary, you can begin to form a crown. In April you can feed the plant.
After the last frost in May, the shrub can be planted in open ground. During the first 14 days it must be protected from bright sunlight.
This shrub can also reproduce with the help of:
More often different kinds weigels can also be grown from seeds, and new plants from varietal bushes are obtained using cuttings.
You can harvest shoots twice during the entire season.
They can be cut for the first time in March, before the buds open:
The second time the cuttings can be cut at the end of May - beginning of June:
Advice! Most often, cuttings that were prepared in the summer take root better and faster.
It is not difficult to grow weigela from seeds, but it takes longer to wait until the bush blooms than if propagated by cuttings. Hybrid species do not reproduce by seeds, because the new plants will not retain the characteristics of the mother plant. Seed cultivation is used if it is necessary to obtain many species of plants.
Weigela seeds are 100% similar and can be stored for a year. Sow them for spring or winter.
Seeds can also be grown in a pot, but during warm periods they need to be taken out into the open air, but protected from bright sunlight.
Weigela in landscapes is used for design most often as single bushes in the foreground or middle ground of compositions. Sometimes it is used for pure groups of shrubs and for mixed plantings.
Next to weigela they often plant:
A composition of several varieties or hybrids looks good:
Many types tall bushes weigels are used to create hedges that do not need to be cut.
Watch the video! Weigel. Planting, care and propagation
