There are not so many fake coins of the USSR known. The most common are two kopeck coins with the date "1923", made of copper or another cheap alloy that does not contain precious silver. The late period of the USSR is characterized by handicraft castings of the year (fifty kopecks with the same date are much less common), since the coin had a smooth edge. It was an order of magnitude more difficult to make rubles with a different date, since it was imitating a plausible edge inscription"garage" technologies of that time did not allow.
For turnover, it was easier to make not a fake, but a fake, “modernizing” a genuine coin. Basically, schoolchildren were engaged in this, repainting “yellow” brass coins in a “light” likeness of nickel silver in various ways. The bulk of such fakes accounted for coins of a three-kopeck denomination, which had to be placed with a confident look in front of the seller with the coat of arms up. Until now, the creations of those times are announced on numismatic forums under the guise of metal crossing. But non-standard weight quickly debunks another "rarity". It was more profitable to imitate fifty dollars by painting nickels, but a corrugated edge instead of a smooth one instantly aroused suspicion in an attentive saleswoman, who was no longer lazy to turn a suspicious coin with a face value up.
Therefore, the bulk of the fakes present on the market were intended not for turnover, but for deceiving collectors, attracted by the opportunity to purchase rare copy at a bargain price. Fakes to the detriment of collectors should be divided into two categories. The first consists of genuine copies issued by the mint, in which modifications have been made by hand. The second consists of items made from scratch, without any involvement of the Mint.
The fake is given by the slope of the lower end of the number "5" (in the original it is horizontal)
The first category is mostly represented transections dates. There were times when the silver rubles of 1921 were not so expensive. Many genuine rubles with this date found the sad fate of fakes, when the last unit was modified with varying degrees of certainty into a deuce, imitating a much rarer ruble with the date "1922". The same fate lay in wait for the kopecks and two-kopeck coins of 1924, which, by manual intervention, became a year younger. Three kopeck coins with the date "1925" do not exist. Here "specialists" are cut corrugations on the edge, trying to issue an ordinary coin of non-collectible condition. To identify the original, it is enough just to put a coin of the same denomination from tsarist times on the “troyak” with an edge: the edge notches must match.
Lots of fakes two hryvnias 1931 (silver) and 1934 (cupronickel). But a different arrangement of the date relative to other elements of the picture immediately reveals the true face of the fake. Unfortunately, sometimes rare coins of other years also suffer. A cut is known that imitates 20 kopecks of 1934, made from a coin of 1932, a variety of which, in the slang of numismatists, is called "sausage", and which in itself is a welcome item in any solid collection. The incorrect position of the date also gives out the cutting of five-kopeck coins with the date "1933".
Often "re-distributors" are let down by ignorance of history. So a two-hry coin with the date "1947" is cut from an ordinary coin of 1957, without thinking about what is already in its coat of arms 15 turns of tape and not 16, as in the original. But it is difficult to make a rarity of 1958 from a coin of 1968. The rail-shaped type of the date on nickel silver is completely different from the rounded number. "1958" on the reverse of the original. And for brass, the size of the font gives out a fake (in 1958 it is noticeably smaller).
From the late USSR, “black square” coins (denominations from 5 to 20 kopecks from 1965 to the mid-70s) are most often counterfeited by inserting the number “7” into a coin issued ten years later. But the addition so far looks rather alien against the general background, so a careful examination easily reveals a fake. In 1991, on the obverses of coins to the right of coat of arms of the USSR the letters "M" and "L" appeared, denoting which mint minted this coin. But a small part of the circulation of 5 and 10 kopecks in 1990 also acquired the letter "M", but an equally small part of the next year's issue does not have the letter. 20 kopecks without letters is an expensive coin. Therefore, the letter of a genuine coin is simply ground off. For a dime, the even edging of the obverse serves as an alarm signal, because on the original it is replete with influxes. The authenticity of the twenty is determined either by an additional awn, or by polishing - a visible oblique line under the letter "P" and a dash above the star. Given the high prices for , modern craftsmen have learned to embed a letter in the field of a letterless coin.
Attempts are being made to break into the market for expensive varieties. A fake of a rare 1931 penny (stamp 1.2) is known, where the “masters” raised the comma to the desired height. However, the experts indicated clear signs of stamp 2 on the coin offered for sale. And the scam was destined to quickly collapse.
Interesting “mutants” that never existed in nature are made from genuine coins using the “glass” technology. Two coins of different years are already required here. In one, a recess is made along the inner side of the edge, where the second coin is seated in a ground off state. At various times, aluminum bronze coins appeared on the numismatic markets, with the date of the second half of the 30s on the reverse, while the version of the coat of arms on the obverse came from the first half of this decade. Often the coins are aged in such a way that the seam of the "glass" is clogged with dirt and is noticeable only upon careful examination under high magnification.
Making copies in our days put on a grand scale. And this is the second category - items made without the participation of the mint. From here, the ruble of 1922 is again in the lead. Significant assistance in identifying such fakes is provided by the fact that they are performed according to a single stencil. It turns out a large batch, each copy of which is indistinguishable from its counterparts. And if revealed fake ruble, which has thick twos in the date and smeared lines in the denomination unit, then all coins with characteristic features should be checked. A large batch of rubles in 1924 is characterized by a "thorn" sticking out of the collective farmer's leg. Although, of course, there are genuine rubles with a similar addition. But most often, a fake is given out by a cheap metal that has magnetic properties, of which, of course, silver is spared.
Recently, 'copy' makers have been entering the collector's market in search of high quality coins. Pyatakov 1924 dug abound. But copies of excellent preservation are still highly valued. And suddenly a sufficient number of "Antsev" coins are announced on the market. But the experts were alerted by the “influx” on the top grain of the right ear. Immediately found several clone coins, repeating the smallest mechanical defects of each other, which cannot happen with ordinary circulating assets. Copper coins in denominations of half a kopeck also experienced a rebirth in the form of self-made superlatives. This batch of "clones" at first misled even experienced collectors.
Alexander Igorevich
Reading time: ~ 6 minutes
It is difficult to say when the first counterfeit coins appeared - probably around the same time as their originals. It is quite natural that counterfeit coins differed from the original ones in the past in that they were worse in terms of workmanship and materials. We will talk about how to distinguish a fake today in our article.
However, if the age of such specimens is measured in centuries, then they are also of interest to collectors, since they are antiques in themselves.
Another thing is modern counterfeits of coins that have a collection value and a huge cost. They do not represent historical value and are specially created for the purpose of profit. That is why it is important to know the signs by which you can distinguish the original from the fake.
Before reading this article, you need to learn about - an article about which coins are best to collect at the initial stage. It should be remembered that the coin may not be fake, but only a different kind of a certain instance. For example, a coin of 10 kopecks in 2003,. For numismatists who collect coins of the USSR, an article will be interesting - on how to distinguish the original from a fake coin of 50 rubles of 1993.
Previously, the most common methods of forgery were the banal dilution of an alloy or the replacement of a precious metal with similar in appearance, but cheaper analogues.
If we talk about the method of making counterfeit coins, then in the case of gold it was casting, since this metal pours very well. most often forged by copying the stamp.
Naturally, such a method did not give one hundred percent similarity with the original, so fakes were quickly detected even with ordinary visual analysis. However, modern technologies make it possible to reduce the differences between counterfeit and original coins to a minimum.
Below we provide photos of some fake coins, the differences from the originals are minimal.
casting method 
Chasing with a fake stamp 
casting method 
Hand engraving
Among the huge number of coins, both participating in modern circulation and long out of it, there are fake and counterfeit ones. Of these, fake ones are those that are made for use in circulation as a means of payment, and fake ones are made for other needs, most often to deceive collectors. In the practice of collecting, it is necessary to be able to distinguish them from the originals, so it is worth dwelling on them in more detail.
The most typical ways of making fakes are:
a) “Correction” of individual elements on ordinary genuine coins, making them “rare”. Usually "correct" the date digits. Such fakes are distinguished by the traces of the work of the engraver or by the discrepancy between the original and other elements of the design of the coin. In some cases, this is also difficult, therefore, in order to recognize well-made fakes, it is necessary to study the object as best as possible, if possible, comparing it with a known original or a high-quality photograph. Most often, two-kopeck coins of 1925 and 1927, silver coins of 1931 and 20 kopecks of 1934 are counterfeited in this way. There are 10- and 20-kopeck coins of 1991 with a sawed off designation of the mint. They are identified, as a rule, by the non-uniformity of the glare in reflected light, since it is almost impossible to grind the saw cut homogeneously with the rest of the coin field. If the condition of the coin is insufficient for this method of determination, it is better to refrain from acquiring a dubious copy. Definitely allows you to determine a fake X-ray diffraction analysis or photographing in infrared rays, which is possible only in a well-equipped laboratory. It is important to note that the silver 10 and 15 kopecks of 1931, as well as 20 kopecks of 1934, were not issued into circulation, and all copies known today are in museums.
b) Injection molding, when the "coin" is cast into a special mold. It is usually easy to distinguish such fakes by casting shells, traces of finishing these shells with a chisel, discrepancy in diameter or thickness (during casting, shrinkage of the metal during cooling is inevitable, which makes it very difficult to accurately select sizes and weights), poor ringing when listening and often poorly made edge design. . However, sometimes quite well-made fakes come across, which are not always possible to distinguish at first glance. Of the Soviet coins, fake 10-kopeck and 5-ruble coins of 1958 are known, as well as some proof coins made in this way.
c) Manufactured or coated by electroplating methods. In this way, electroplating and fakes of rare coins are made, erroneously minted in the wrong metal. Electroplated copies are usually distinguished by a special surface texture, a very different weight and traces of the connection of the halves on the edge. Sometimes they are made so well that it can be difficult to distinguish them from genuine ones. Electroplated copies never "ring" like genuine coins, their "ring", if any, is much muffled. Counterfeits covered with “not their own” metal are identified by weight discrepancy, often the wrong color of the coating, and by carefully incising between the teeth of the edge notch by the difference in the color of the metal at the incision site. Such fakes should be distinguished from defective genuine coins burned during the technological operation of annealing coin blanks after cutting them out of the sheet to increase the ductility of the metal. In the latter, the color change during the incision proceeds evenly, while the fakes have a sharp border between the layers.
d) Manufactured by powder metallurgy. Recently, very high-quality fakes of rare Soviet coins by years have appeared (1/2 kopeck in 1961, 2 kopecks in 1925 and 1927, 50 kopecks in 1958 and some others), possibly made in this way. The author did not have the opportunity to get acquainted with them in more detail, so the manufacturing method is given presumably. The quality of these fakes is gradually increasing.
e) Manufacture with specially made stamps. They are determined by comparison with a genuine copy or a good photograph by a mismatch in the pattern of image elements. 2 kopecks of 1925 and some other coins made in this way are known.
f) Correction of the edge of the coin. Most often there are 3 and 5 kopeck coins of 1924 with a rolled edge notch. To determine the authenticity of the ribbed edge, it is necessary to compare the pitch of the notch with a coin of pre-revolutionary coinage of the St. the same instrument as the 1924 coin. You should also compare the diameter of the studied coin with the diameter of the corresponding pre-revolutionary coin. If the knurling is done after minting, then the diameter of the coin usually decreases somewhat, which often betrays a fake, since on genuine coins the edge notch was knurled before minting. In addition, when knurling a notch after minting, a flash is always formed along the edge of the coin. The detection of flash or traces of machining along the outer edge of the edging of the coin, as a rule, indicates a fake. It is worth comparing the wear rate of the edge notch with the overall wear of the coin: for genuine coins, the wear of the edge usually matches or is greater than that of the obverse and reverse. It is also useful to know that nickels of 1924 with a ribbed edge are currently unknown from circulation.
Somewhat less often, they saw off the edge notch on 1 and 2-kopeck coins of 1924. A fake can be recognized by a slightly smaller diameter and traces of machining. If the notch was filed by hand, there is usually a deviation from the correct round shape of the coin.
There are fakes made in a combined way.
I consider it useful to give a list of the most characteristic fakes that I have seen over the past few years:
| Name | Features |
| 1 kopeck 1925 | Fixed the last digit of the date. The date figures are close, which is typical for 1924 kopecks. engraving marks. |
| 1 kopeck 1944 | There was no minting of genuine kopecks of 1944. Fixed the last digit of the date. Made from a 1941 penny. |
| 1 kopeck 1958 | |
| 2 kopecks 1925 | Weight mismatch. Insufficient surface quality. All details of the images correspond to the original coin. Probably made by injection molding. |
| 2 kopecks 1925 | Reverse details mismatch. Arrangement of nodes, as on one of the varieties of 1924. Made from 2 kopecks 1924. |
| 2 kopecks 1925 | Poor quality galvanization. |
| 2 kopecks 1925 | Chasing with newly made stamps. The inconsistency of the pattern of knots on the reverse is clearly visible, the poor elaboration of the image of the globe on the obverse. |
| 2 kopecks 1927 | Fixed the last digit of the date. Inconsistency in the style of the number "7" and other details of the stamp. The obverse is minted with a die, which was not used in 1927. Made from 2 kopecks 1926. |
| 2 kopecks 1944 | There was no minting of genuine 2 kopecks of 1944. Fixed the last digit of the date. Made from 2 kopecks 1941. |
| 3 kopecks 1924 with a ribbed edge | Traces of flash on the edge of the coin. The edge is in good condition with significant general wear on the coin. |
| 3 kopecks 1947 | Fixed the last digit of the date. Obverse subtype discrepancy in 1947. Traces of refinement around the number "7". Made from 3 kopecks 1946. |
| 3 kopecks 1957 with 16 turns of the ribbon in the coat of arms. | Fixed the last digit of the date. The inconsistency of the details of the stamps in 1957. Made from 3 kopecks 1952. Traces of refinement of the field around the number "7". A rather crude fake, but in 1976, the author, being an inexperienced collector, “bought” it. |
| 3 kopecks 1958 | Date crudely altered from "1988". Many details of the image do not match. |
| 5 kopecks 1958 | Injection molding. As models, a nickel of 1988 with a corrected date was used. The edge notch is made roughly. A soft low-melting alloy of the babbitt type with surface spraying is used. |
| 10 kopecks 1931 (silver) | Date engraved from "1930". The location of the date digits relative to the word "KOPEEK" does not match. |
| 15 kopecks 1931 (silver) | Same. |
| 15 kopecks 1958 | Coin type discrepancy 1958. The fake was made from a coin of the 1948-1956 type, counting on an illiterate collector or an illiterate forger .. |
| 20 kopecks 1925 with 1 kopeck obverse | Made from a 1-kopeck coin of 1924 by silvering the obverse and soldering a galvanized copy of the reverse of 20 kopecks of 1925 to the reverse. The specimen weighs 3.1 g, which is 0.5 g less than the norm. |
| 20 kopecks 1934 | Injection molding. A coin of 1933 with a corrected date was used as a reverse model. The edge notch is made roughly. |
| 20 kopecks 1952 in metal 3 kopecks of this period | Weight corresponds to a 3-kopeck face value. Unnatural surface color of the coin. A fake is made from a genuine coin by electroplating. |
| 5 rubles 1958 | Irregular field of the coin. Discrepancy between the color of the metal and the weight of the coin. |
This table can be continued for quite a long time, which indicates a very large number of fake coins on the numismatic market, and not only the rarest coins are faked, but also coins of medium rarity (in this table, this is 1 kopeck of 1925). It must be added that the skill and capabilities of counterfeiters are constantly increasing, and fakes made at an even higher level may appear. The collector needs to be careful in each case of acquiring rare coins.
If possible, you should seek help from more experienced colleagues, and, in any case, never purchase a coin if its authenticity is in doubt. A visual acquaintance with as many rare coins as possible is highly desirable, since it is precisely in this case that experience is gained that allows later to compare (at least from memory) the proposed coin with the original seen earlier. It is also very useful to get acquainted with obviously counterfeit coins in order to establish in practice their difference from genuine ones. The photos show some of the fake coins compared to the real ones.
And, finally, I would like to recall some recommendations of the oldest Soviet numismatists - the patriarchs of collecting Soviet coins, David Isaakovich Moshnyagin and Naum Yakovlevich Dashevsky:
What is the correct approach in general, and, in relation to rare coins of the Soviet minting, in particular?
Firstly, in mastering the rule: treat rare coins with the greatest possible care, remembering that for every genuine copy there are many fakes.
Secondly, in a cold-blooded, thorough examination of the coin in order to determine whether it contains the above signs that are characteristic of fakes.
Thirdly, in a thorough, scrupulous check of all the features of the stamp inherent in this coin.
Any proposed rarity is always recommended to be treated as a deliberate fake. And the first thing to find out: how it is made ...
We do not set ourselves the task of a detailed study of counterfeit coins, therefore we will limit ourselves to the briefest information. Counterfeit coins were made and were always present in circulation. The methods for making counterfeit coins (and, therefore, the methods for detecting them) are the same as for making counterfeit ones. The photo shows some counterfeit coins for circulation.
Recently, numismatics has faced a very serious problem - an influx of fake rare and not very rare coins. Modern technologies make it possible to make an almost perfect copy of any coin, which is used by scammers who want to make money on the desire of numismatists to buy a rare coin not very expensively.
Numismatists with experience can easily distinguish a rough fake, but sometimes even they are mistaken when buying the so-called "bullshit". What can we say about novice collectors who believe that somewhere by chance you can buy a rare coin for next to nothing.
1. In 99 percent of cases, all counterfeit coins are cast, while real ones are minted. Casting can be recognized by the micropores on the surface of the coin. It is not a sin to take a magnifying glass and look at it, especially if you are buying an expensive coin.
2. The edge of a coin can tell a lot. If the coin is cast, then the edge is grinded to remove traces of casting. In some cases, even with the naked eye, the line is perfectly visible.
3. If there are suspicions about a silver coin, then know that often it is not silver at all, but only silver plated (this may be indicated by an uneven color). Although expensive coins are counterfeited from silver. Often, to give the coin a century-old patina, it is rubbed with resin to a dark gray hue.
4. Always weigh a suspect coin, as counterfeiters are not always able to adjust the weight of a fake to the weight of the original. Of course, there should not be full compliance with the standards (+ - 0.1-0.2 grams for silver is allowed, for copper the spread can be even greater).
5. If you buy an expensive coin, then compare it with the original (you can find an image of any coin on the Internet).
6. Never buy coins from random people. There are no fairy tales, an ordinary grandmother or aunt cannot have a rare ruble, supposedly dug up in the country. Fraudsters posing as collectors often sell fakes at a very low price, justifying themselves with some urgent circumstances.
If you accidentally bought a fake coin, then do not try to sell it, passing it off as a real one. First, your actions will be regarded as "fraud". And secondly, you will spoil your reputation as a “numismatist” more and all your subsequent coins will be tacitly considered fake.
What to do if you want to buy a coin, but there are doubts about its authenticity? The most important thing is not to rush. You need to take high-quality photos (or ask the seller to take them, since you don’t need to buy by “avatars”) and post them on any numismatist forum. The forum will tell you for sure whether the coin is real.
Today it is no longer a rare case when a coin can go through 2-3 auctions under the guise of a real one, and then it turns out that it is a fake. For this reason, especially valuable coins should be bought only with authenticity documents.
The pursuit of profit often leads a person to invent the most ingenious methods of creating illegal copies of something, including coins. There are a lot of ways to make "fake" coins, because the history of falsifications begins from the moment the first monetary units appeared.
The most common fraudulent method is casting (die casting). First, the scammers create a cliché (mould) that mimics both sides of the counterfeit coin. Then the alloy is poured into it. The finished coin is covered with some valuable metal or cheap paint, reminiscent of the color of the desired metal. Previously, this method left flaws in the form of bubbles and fuzzy images on coins. With the development of technologies for electrolysis copying and centrifugal casting, the presence of bubbles was reduced to a minimum, and the picture became clear, which created additional difficulties for numismatists in determining the authenticity of coins. Nevertheless, the improvement of technological approaches to casting fakes still does not help to achieve the desired weight parameters of coins.
Brass mold for casting fake 20 kop. 1888
Modern coinage equipment purchased by counterfeiters makes it possible to produce coins using a new imitator stamp made according to the original model by a skilled carver. This method is very expensive and time-consuming, so it is used to create the rarest and, accordingly, the most expensive specimens. It is very difficult to distinguish coins cultivated with a “new” stamp.
Another way to fake coins - use of an old stamp. An illegally taken out stamp that has already worked out can be used to make new coins. In this case, the money received will have fuzzy lines and some flaws in the images.
In order to add value to a coin, some dealers modify it, correct it: they mechanically alter the numbers, the designation of money yards, the initials of mintzmeisters, etc. There are a lot of ways to correct details on a coin: cutting signs; soldering letters; sawing of two coins of different types in order to connect different obverses / reverses (a coin of an allegedly unknown sample is obtained); engraving of genuine coins to improve the damaged appearance (closing punched holes, smoothing out nicks, applying manual edge notching). To recognize a fake made way of improvement, you need to carefully study the catalog original of the coin in order to discern the slightest changes in the appearance of the copy.
Counterfeiting a coin by reworking (the year is corrected on 50 kopecks)
Particular attention should be paid to creation of fakes using electroforming, since galvanized copies are often made so skillfully that even an experienced craftsman will not always be able to distinguish it from the original. To create a galvanic copy, to begin with, prints of coins are made from gypsum or other plastic mass, covered with a thin layer of conductive material. Then the impressions are placed in a bath with an electrolytic solution. When current is passed through the solution, a layer of metal builds up on the impression, which fills all the irregularities in the impressions. Then the wax casts are detached from the metal ball and exact copies of the sides of the coins are obtained. The metal sides are connected, adjusted and soldered so that the distance between them corresponds to the thickness of the original.
If this completes the work of falsification, then a fake can be easily identified by its extremely light weight, unusual texture, spikes on the edge, sound when falling, the movement of the sides of the coins inward when flattening them with your fingers, and the difference in color of the metal with a small incision. But most often, scammers modify the fake version. For example, to make the counterfeit heavier, to reduce the level of "flexibility" of the sides when pressed and to obtain a metallic sound, a filler is reported inside. To mask soldering points, copper coins are silvered or gilded, or equipped with a metal ring with a regular edge notch and accompanying elements.
Sometimes the deposition on plaster molds of metal continues until the thickness of the resulting counterfeit is equal to half the thickness of the original. Then the halves are soldered over the entire area of the back sides of the obverse/reverse. Thus, a fake is obtained in terms of weight somewhat reminiscent of the original, not bending and more or less uniform in metal color.
Coin resulting from electroforming (soldered ribbon with an arbitrary pattern on the edge)
A high-tech way to counterfeit coins is laser engraving method, in which the scanned image of the original transmitted to the laser device is cut out of plastic by it. The resulting matrices are filled with alloys and soldered. Spectral analysis will easily identify a fake.
The most difficult process for counterfeiting coins is hand carving when images on a smooth mug and edge are cut out by hand. In the absence of a clean circle, an image from a coin, for example, with a similar obverse, is cut off and another, necessary one, is applied on top of it.
Hand carving on a coin (fakes)
Are "replicas" and "replicas" of coins fakes? Indeed, in essence, counterfeit coins are illegal copies made later than the historical time of circulation of the originals, with the aim of selling them to antiquarians, numismatists, and other lovers of rarities. And "replicas" and "replicas" ("restrike" abroad) are also copies, only legalized, produced by state (sometimes private) money yards, often with the help of genuine stamps.
"Replicas" coins are imitations of the originals. They are made from materials different from the original ones, while the image exactly or as closely as possible repeats the image on a genuine coin. Such coins are not created to deceive numismatists, as they either mint special signs that indicate copying, or deliberately omit some elements in the image so that even a novice numismatist can distinguish a copy from the original. An excellent example of a "replica" is 37.5 rubles - 100 francs of 1902 of the Leningrad money yard, minted in 1990 from a copper-nickel alloy with gilding. The circulation of donative "replicas" ordered by the All-Union Foreign Economic Association "International Book" is 50,000 pieces. The fact that this copy is a “replica” is indicated by the letter “P”, affixed next to the letter “G.” on the reverse. The current price of a copy reaches 2000 rubles. Coins are minted with original stamps. Today, state mints do not mint "replicas", it is done by private individuals. Such imitations contain many deviations from the original. Examples are Chinese "replicas" of "Proof" quality coins made as souvenirs.
"Replica" 37.5 rubles - 100 francs 1902 LMD
Chinese private souvenir "replica" (Proof quality, cupronickel, gilding, capsule, price about 700 rubles)
Today, copies of the original coins of the past, produced by state money yards using genuine stamps, are called "remake". There are “remakes” that are absolutely identical to the originals (for example, a remake of the Gagnut ruble of 1914, re-minted in 1927) and “remakes” with some changes (for example, a remake of the gold chervonets of the country of the Soviets “Sower” of 1923, re-produced in 1975– 1982 with an indication of the real year of minting, and since 1977 with the designation on the edge of the mint: LMD, MMD).
"Remake" of the Gangut ruble
"Remake" of the gold ducat "Sower"
There are a lot of "renovators" out there. A large number of copies of the coins of Tsarist Russia and the USSR are known. Both circulating and commemorative coins are re-minted. For example, in 1988, “remakes” of 19 commemorative ruble coins of 1965–1986 with the inscription “1988 N” on the edge (“N” - remake) were made: remake of the ruble “50 years of Soviet power” of 1965; remake "40 years of victory over Germany" 1985; remake "International Year of Peace" 1986, etc.
Remakes of commemorative coins 1965–1986
So, there are a lot of ways to counterfeit coins, but they are all laborious and costly. “Replicas” and “replicas”, on the one hand, are also fakes, but they are official and not created for deception and easy money, so the production of legal imitating copies cannot be attributed to forgery methods.
